Mark92131

No worries, you'll find one... Mark92131

You want the top one connected to your advance pod (ported vacuum above the throttle plates), the lower one is manifold vacuum. Ported vacuum doesn't pull vacuum at idle, manifold vacuum pulls vacuum idle to WOT. So at idle with ported vacuum, you are running static timing (no vacuum advance). If you switch to manifold vacuum, (the lower fitting) you will be running static timing + whatever advance is produced by the manifold vacuum at idle. This all assumes that you have removed the distributor cap, wrapped your lips around the hose connected to distributor advance pod, sucked really hard and verified the points plate moved. Otherwise, bad distributor advance pod and your distributor is only running static advance. Mark92131

I have 3 used ones on my desk, a little crusty but would clean up with some elbow grease. Mark92131

So, after sorting out the S14 flywheel, clutch, pressure plate clearance issue with the Getrag 245 transmission debacle, I decided that it would be wise to test fit the motor/trans and subframe installation and see if any adjustments would be needed. Well, turns out adjustments are needed. First off, while lifting the subframe, motor and trans on the motor jack while subsequently lowering the car it turns out that S14 header and the steering box hang-up on the inside lip of the frame rails on both sides. Now I could have suspended the motor from the top with the engine hoist and tilted the whole assembly to clear the frame rail lip, but it might be easier to just trim the lip on both sides to clear these components. So that is my plan going forward. I reached out to @jimk with some questions on how he was running his coolant lines without the stock reservoir and he provided the answers I needed to make the conversion. Basically, you need to remove the pipe that primes the water pump from the reservoir and replace the hose from the thermostat to the water pump with a straight hose (like the 2002). The 8mm hose that runs from the back of the head to the reservoir needs to be rerouted by removing the pipe that runs to the back of the head and adding a hose from the fitting at the front of the head to the radiator. He also provided his schematics for the custom radiator he designed and built to provide the fittings needed for this change. I sent an inquiry to C&R Racing to build the same radiator for my installation but $1,249 was beyond my budget. My original plan was to run a BMW 320i radiator for cooling, but with plastic tanks and no way to run the 8mm line to the radiator, this was going to be a problem. On a whim, I sent a message to an E-Bay manufacturer in China (winner_racing_radiator) that builds aluminum radiators for the BMW 2002. Their stock BMW 2002 dimensions are way off and in some cases too thick for the S14 conversion. I asked if they could do a custom radiator and they said yes, they could build me a custom radiator and ship it to my door (DHL) for $350. OK, lets take a chance! So I started measuring the radiator support opening, original mounting holes, top of the radiator support, thickness target, and connections and bungs required to build a custom radiator and produced a drawing for them to use. The only thing we changed during production was the fitting for the head drain (moved to the filler neck) and the height of the top tank (reduced to 60mm) so we could use a larger core. The BMW 320i radiator originally had an electric fan attached directly to the radiator using a zip tie kit. While waiting for the new radiator to arrive, I fabricated a more elegant solution for mounting the fan using a couple of strips of 3/4" aluminum stock. The radiator arrived today and I did some test fitting. Everything lines up exactly as expected. I elected to not have the manufacturer drill the mounting holes so I could finalize placement, but it seems to fit perfectly. I'll report back when this engine has fired for feedback on any cooling issues I experience. When I was removing the 8mm pipe to the back of the head, I noticed that it looked like the stock injectors were installed. A little creative camera work confirmed this fact. I did some research on the specs for the stock and injectors and their use with aftermarket ECU's. Turns out that MicroSquirt has 2 injector drivers, each capable of driving 1 Low Impedance injector or 4 High Impedance injectors. The stock injectors are Low Impedance, so they need to be replaced with High Impedance replacements with similar flow characteristics. I went through the Bosch catalog and came up with multiple high impedance injectors that flowed near 240CC/MIN. Lots of these were super expensive or out of stock. I eventually ended up with new 0 280 150 728 Blue Tops that I ordered from AutoFirma in the UK at just over $27 each. Here's the specs... PART NUMBER: 0280150728 BLUE TOP. INJECTOR BODY: METAL & COMPOSITE PLASTIC WITH FACTORY FITTED UPPER AND LOWER O-RING SEALS. DESIGN: BOSCH EV1 STATIC FLOW RATE: 24LB/HR @ 43.5PSI OR 248CC/MIN @ 3.0 BAR ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR: EV1 2 PIN. LENGTH: 3 inches, 74 mm DIAMETER: 24 mm O RINGS: Top and bottom, 14.5 mm RESISTANCE: 14.5 Ohms/HIGH IMPEDANCE FILTER DESIGN: BASKET FILTER AT INLET Lot's of work remaining, but making progress. Thanks for checking in. Mark92131

John: In the first picture, it looks like the vacuum advance pod is clocked to the back on the distributor and I can't tell if it is hooked up. It does appear that it is running a Pertronix module or some variation. Santawillis: That fuel filter should be on the line before the pump, to keep crap from entering the pump. Those fuel filters only partially fill, so what you are observing may be normal operation. It is always a good idea to insure you are getting fuel from the tank to the carb without any restriction, so checking this is a good idea. I would also check the operation of your ignition. The advance pod on your distributor should be connected to the vacuum advance port above the base of your Weber carb facing the passenger fender. You can test the vacuum advance pod by pulling the distributor cap and sucking on the hose attached to the pod, the points plate should move slightly. If you have a timing light with advance feature, verify the degrees of advance at idle, 1000, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 RPM and report your findings. If you don't have a timing light with advance, set the RPM to 1500, stick the timing light down the flywheel viewing port and turn the distributor back and forth until you can see the flywheel "Ball" in the viewing port (25 degrees BTDC). Lock the distributor down and use the timing light to observe the timing marks on the front pulley at 1500 RPM. Increase the RPMs to 3000 and you should observe the timing mark change at the front pulley, this means your ignition is advancing properly beyond 25 degrees BTDC and should be all in at 3000 RPM. I suspect there may be a few things pulling down your performance (sticking caliper, vacuum leaks, clogged fuel delivery, ignition issues, jetting, etc.) but all these are cheap fixes that we can help you with. Part of the fun of 2002 ownership. Mark92131 P.S. I used to sail against SDYC back in the day, never saw that car in the parking lot.

If you are going with the original ECU, the Aardvark kit may be useful. However, the Getrag 265 trans will require some surgery to fit it in your 2002. Mark92131 M2 Engine Kit - E30 S14 Engine in a BMW 2002 | Aardvarc Racing WWW.2002PARTS.COM

Go to Parts for Sale in Classified section. Press the Blue Create New Topic button. Provide the required information, Title, Location, Description, Price. Have all your photos loaded on your computer. In the description box, use the chose files link to find the photos of your parts on your computer and add them to your listing. We appreciate you selling all your parts on one listing, because multiple listings push other people's listing down the list and off the first page. Have a list of your parts and the price. People will send you private messages or ask questions directly on your post. Usually people will claim an item with an I'll take it response, or will ask questions about the item. You need to direct traffic on who responds first and list what items are sold, pending payment or still available by editing your original post. As things sell, you can delete them from the list with the pictures. Good communication is key! IMHO, Mark92131

Watch this short video to wrap your head around how it functions. Mark92131

Electric choke, no vacuum involved. 12V heats up the spring that slowly opens the choke plates on top of the carb. You can confirm it is operating correctly (plates almost closed on cold startup, plates fully opened at operating temperature). Glad it is running better. Mark92131

The pertronix is not programable, the 123 Ignition bluetooth version is programable from your phone, the other models of 123 Ignition distributors use a USB cable to load different advance curves and then switch between them. Many of us here have used the 123 Ignition distributors with good success. There was some early issues with oil leakage, but subsequently corrected by the distributor for an additional fee. Mark92131

First off, that car is a beauty. The surge issue could be ignition, pump issues or vacuum leaks. A worn out distributor will bounce the ball on the flywheel and make it hard to get a steady idle. You can try to look for lateral play in the rotor shaft, it should be solid with no lateral movement of the shaft. Before you send the pump out for work, I would test for vacuum leaks (carb cleaner spray around intake connections and hoses during idle and listen for surge in idle). If it was my car, I would consider replacing the original distributor with a bluetooth unit from 123 Ignition, limitless timing curve options with your phone. If that doesn't fix the issue. the pump or the related systems (warm-up regulator, linkage, etc. may be causing issues). Mark92131

That is a valid assumption, a 68 1600-2 would have rear drum brakes (200mm). VW calipers in the rear were a popular rear disc brake upgrade. Mark92131

If you don't need to smog it, all that stuff can go, even the smog wiring harness. Mark92131

That's a beauty! I could never get the Weber 34 ICH to run on my 1600 Cab, the Solex one barrel carb was bullet-proof. Went through a number of carb changes to eventually this setup. Mark92131

Your 76 Automatic should have a vacuum advance distributor with a single connection. Under your choke are two hoses connections, one on the carb and one on the manifold. Trace those two vacuum lines and see where they go (Distributor, EGR valve, Air Cleaner?). Cap the one on the manifold with those nice rubber vacuum caps @zinz suggested and run a single vacuum line from the one on the carb to the vacuum pod on your distributor. Toss those white hoses in your neighbor's pool, they connected your absent Solex carb dashpot to the White magnetic valve on your firewall. This smog stuff is probably long gone which would explain the open barb on the right of your picture (goes to the smog pump diverter valve) and the screw-plugged barb on the left (goes to the White magnetic valve on your firewall). Mark9213

I removed the steering box when I did mine, the fitment was pretty tight. My subframe was out of the car. Mark92131

Step #1 complete, angle grinder with cutoff wheel got me about 3/4" of clearance. Ordered some low profile M6 sockets/bolts from Belmetric for the pulley Mark92131

Today was the day for test fitting my S14 motor in my 1970 BMW 1600. My brother came over to help and we started the process of rolling the subframe under the body of the lift, raising the motor and trans with our modified motorcycle lift and then lowering the body to attach the subframe. Well, it didn't go exactly as planned. The thermostat is pretty tight, but the rubber hoses helped me pull it out of the way during the body drop. Unfortunately, the S14 header and steering box are too wide to fit between the front frame rails without hitting the top of the frame rail flange. I'm either going to need to pull the header or notch the flange on the top of the front frame rail to get the header/steering box to clear. More alarming is that the motor/subframe will need to come forward about an inch to fit the guide pins on the body and I only have about an inch of clearance between the front pully and the 320i radiator. Does BMW make a shorter water pump for the S14 or do people modify the motor mounts to get some extra room? Any insight would be helpful. So close, yet so far! Mark92131

I see you notched the front frame rails, smart! I will probably end up doing the same thing to get my S14 in from the bottom. The header and the steering box hit the flange on top of the front frame rail on my 1600. Mark92131

All Caps on non-cursive letters on the bill of sale. Lowercase "a" on "BaD", yet Uppercase "A" on "MAIN" and Lowercase "r" on "THUrST". The bill of sale author also dots his "i's" on his Uppercase "I's", not present in the flywheel "MAIN". Not a lot of consistency between the two samples. Mark92131

Peter, sorry to hear of your Dad's passing. You are a good son for trying to help out your Mom. The good news is that your Dad's car is a 1975 and will not require the bi-annual smog check in California which makes it more desirable for Ca owners that want to do engine modifications. The 1975 "square-tail" wasn't the most collectable BMW 2002, but can fetch prices in the mid to high teens in top condition. Your Dad's car will require some work to get it close to those numbers. First off, your car running and driving will significantly raise the price. @Mike Self had a great recommendation for trying to re-start that engine. I would buy a battery for it, test all the lights and electricals and try to start it. If it is damaged from running without oil, the lower end will probably knock badly and you can use that as a decision point for how to proceed. If the motor is good, I would clean up the interior, install the trim, get the hydraulics sorted (clutch and brakes) and see if runs and drives. This all assumes that you are doing the work yourself. If you aren't mechanically inclined and need someone else to do this work, you can get upside down in a hurry. If the motor is toast, you will need to at a minimum pull the engine, install new main bearings and turn/polish the crank and inspect the previous work. I would budget $1.5K - $4K for this work, depending what the machine shop discovers. If you aren't prepared to go down that path, the car still has value, just not as much. If you just bolted on the trim, washed, waxed and buffed the paint, installed the door cards and detailed the interior and sold it with a motor that needed rebuilding, you could get $6K - $8K for it. As it sits right now in the pictures, you could probably get $4K - $5K for it. IMHO, Mark92131