Mark92131

Verifying Spark and Fuel to the carb is a good start. So other things to check would be as follows: 1. Adjust the valves 2. Compression, pull all the plugs (clean and gap them) and run a compression test 3. Ignition - verify TDC for plug #1, pull the valve cover, rotate engine until both #1 valves are off cam (closed) and cam mark lines up with oil bar and Flywheel TDC mark is lined up in view hole above starter. 4. Verify that rotor is pointed at #1 spark plug lead on cap and leads clockwise are in proper firing order. 5. Turn engine over until points block is on the highest point of distributor shaft cam and adjust points gap to .016" 6. Reinstall rotor, cap, spark plugs, spark plug/coil lead(s) 7. Slightly loosen the 10mm nut on the base of the distributor so you can turn it clockwise or counter clockwise with some effort. 8. Spray a shot of starter fluid down the carb throat (open choke flaps). 9. Have an assistant try and start the car. It should fire and run. If it fires and dies, you are just running on the starting fluid and the carb is not working correctly, (clogged idle jet, float adjustment, etc.). If it does not catch (fire) while cranking, the ignition timing maybe off, so you can slowly turn the distributor back and forth while your assistant cranks it over to see if you can get it fire. Other will have more... Mark92131

I had this same issue with my 1975. Used 10 quarts of oil driving picking up my daughter at UCSC and back to San Diego. Got home, pulled the head, replaced valve guides, seats and seals, and installed a new cam. After reassembly, oil consumption was normal. My piston tops were way worse than yours. Hope you get it back on the road soon. Mark92131

Still at it. I got this message this morning from Ryker on an Ad in the WTB section. Mark92131 Hi Mate, you can check with Jamier she has it available, her late husband was a member of this forum you can text her at, (213) 569-4341, I purchased items from her and they arrived in top condition.

BMW Part # 32331120194. I need the trim cover for a BMW 320i Sport Steering Wheel. Back-ordered with no ETA. The one that came with my Sport Steering wheel had all the mounting tabs snapped off and the PO attempted to "glue" it on. If anyone has this in their part stash, I would like to buy it. Mark92131

The Bavaria mount is 32.25mm. Mark92131

I am assuming you have the insulator/spacer that sits between the fuel pump and the head. There are 2 types of mechanical fuel pumps, one with the spring (like yours) and one with a flat metal lever. The spring version has the short push rod and the lever version uses the long push rod. When ordering a new one, you need the long neck version to clear the hose from the water neck to the intake manifold. The short neck version of the fuel pump will interfere with the hose. Like others have mentioned, the function can be tested by reinstalling and placing the output hose in a container and using the starter to crank the motor. If gas is pumped into the container, your fuel pump is probably OK. Mark92131

There was another recent post about problems with a 1974 Tii and I noticed it had a emission sticker which seemed odd to me. Maybe the sticker application guy at the end of the assembly line just didn't know the difference between the two models. Mark92131

Yes, you are correct. The 242 and 245 Getrag transmission speedometer drive gear, bushing, adapter, shaft seal and O-ring have the same part numbers. Mark92131

On reassembly, make sure you line up the middle of the square cutout in the Adapter (#21) with the clamping bolt (#16). The PO of my Getrag 245 transmission aligned the left edge of the cutout with the clamping bolt and while torquing it down, mushroomed the edge of the Adapter cutout preventing me from pulling out the speedo cable. It took a couple of hours to pull the end of the cable out of the Adapter and remove the burrs so everything fit without interference. Mark92131

You can also remove the Vapor tank, Charcoal Filter and lines. You will need to cap the vacuum connection under the air cleaner and take the line that runs from the gas tank fill neck to the Vapor tank, drill and grommet a hole in your trunk floor and run that line out to the atmosphere under the car just like the Euro cars. Mark92131

Nipple for your 2 barrel Solex Water Choke carb. Replace the rubber boot with a piece of hose, an appropriately sized bolt and 2 clamps. Mark92131

It looks like the IE Kit with a missing short dog bone link between the bottom of the shifter and the transmission. The shifter on your car doesn't seem to have the matching connection for the other side of the dog bone. IE maybe be able to supply the missing pieces. Mark92131 Shift Plate for 5-Speed Conversion – 2002 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each

The vapor tank is under the parcel shelf, the charcoal canister is under the hood. Here is one of @John76 drawings of how this is connected. Mark92131

Yes, the holes and mounting spots will line up. Mark92131

Ouch, a 76 with Smog Parts missing! The ZEUNA manifold will need to be replaced with a Thermal Reactor version along with plumbing and check valve to the diverter valve / smog pump. Use this diagram below to determine what you have and what you will need. Mark92131

Most of the disconnected wires, hoses and sensors is what is left of your emission equipment. If your car is a 1975 or older in CA, here's a step by step for removing all the smog equipment. Some of your equipment may already be removed. Mark92131 Smog removal 1. Buy a used early exhaust manifold, (no emission ports), or a Tii manifold or a non-thermal reactor manifold and plug the emission ports, or headers, IE Shorty Header, or just use your Zeuna exhaust manifold. 2. Pull the Thermal reactor (smog manifold) off, 8 nuts, plus the bracket to the passenger-side engine mount, disconnect the hoses to the EGR filter (rear) and Check valve (front), toss in neighbors pool, (actually someone may need it because they crack). 3. Remove your alternator and battery, you will need clearance for the EGR filter and smog pump. 4. Unbolt the EGR filter from the intake manifold (2 bolts), remove the hoses (one is connected to the intake manifold, the other to the divertor), and vacuum lines from the EGR Valve. Slide the EGR Valve and filter into the space vacated by the alternator to remove. 5. Buy the EGR blocking plate on the FAQ store, to plug the hole in the intake manifold (or use one of those rubber expanding plugs) 6. Remove the Dashpot for the Solex carb from the intake manifold, if it is still there, if you have a Weber carb, it is probably gone 7. Remove the T1 Temperature switch between 3 & 4 on the intake manifold (keep, they are expensive) 8. Remove the Diverter Valve (between the EGR Valve and the Pump), 3 hoses and bracket 9. Remove the Air pump, belt, and mounting brackets, (under the battery tray), it takes some wiggling to get it past the sway bar. 10. Replace the Alternator and battery (leave battery disconnected for now) 11. Remove all the smog components attached to the firewall (3 electro-magnetic valves (red, white, black), 2 relays, (speed & choke), the Control valve (round with 3 vacuum lines), the EGR Relay (looks like an aluminum cigarette pack). 12. Plug the 3 open ports on the intake manifold from unplugging the smog stuff. 13. Run a single vacuum line from the carb port above the port on the intake manifold, (passenger side of the carb) to the advance port on the distributor, plug the retard port on the distributor, (underneath). 14. If you have an electric choke or idle jet shut-off circuit, it might be powered off of the emission wiring harness (blue sheath wire bundle connecting all the firewall smog components), you'll need to power those things separately to remove the smogharness (run wires off the + side of the coil) 15. To remove the smog harness, trace the blue sheath wire bundle to the fuse box, remove the screw for the fuse box and pull it up, there should be two wires connected, disconnect both of them. The push-on connection at fuse #12 should be used to connect to the + side of the coil. If you have a coil with an internal resistor (blue, aftermarket) run a straight wire from fuse #12 to the + side of the coil, if you have the original black coil or red, you need to harvest the resistor wire from the smog harness (still connected to the coil), or use the older external style resistor that mounts on the firewall. Either way, trace the smog wiring harness back to the coil and remove it completely. If you need to harvest the resistor wire on the + side of the coil connection, peel back the blue sheath to expose the clear resistor wire and remove it and then splice it into your new wire running back to the fuse box. The only thing connected to the coil will be the wires from the distributor to the - side of the coil and your new wire from the fuse box #12 to the + side of the coil. If you have Pertronix, those wires will also be present. 16. Reconnect the battery and start the car 17, Set the dwell and timing 18. Reset the carb to best idle using the idle jet screw, set the idle speed and enjoy.

You could try some of Tii advance curves from the Blue Book to start and then modify based on how your motor performs. Mark92131

So I haven't posted in a while because after the Euphoria of installing the motor came the depression of all the tasks that lie ahead. I still haven't installed the driveshaft, mainly because it takes two people and my brother has been busy with his Triumph GT-6 build. Other sources of depression were self inflicted, as I was staring up at the transmission and thought, may as well hook the clutch line to the clutch master and promptly cross threaded it. Just more things to fix! Ford EDIS-4 Wiring Now that the motor was in place, it was time to finish wiring it up. I made three Deutsch connector harnesses so I could quickly drop the engine without removing connections to 4 bus-bars on the firewall. 1 connector handled injector power and triggering, 1 connector handled power and signal and grounds for the TPS, PWM ICV and MAP, the 3rd picked up all the remaining sensors, (IAT, CLT, sensors for 3 aux gauges and instrument panel gauges, oil, water temp). I ran the VR Sensor output separate from the engine harnesses because of the shielding requirement. With careful planning upfront, every wire had a home, so this task only took about a day to complete. Of course, I'll get around to testing it later. Coolant Water Pipe Shortening Once the engine was in, it was pretty apparent that the coolant pipe above the exhaust header was too long to support a hose connection to the radiator. All the cool boys and girls chop out a 40mm section of this pipe to correct this issue. I could cut the pipe no problem, but my TIG skills are non-existent, so I found a welder in the area and paid too much to have this done. Cleaned up the rewelded pipe, primer and paint in Hammered black and it was better than new. There are 4, 22mm x 2mm o-rings that need to be replaced before installation, 5 days later they arrived and I installed the shortened pipe. Thermostat Installation Now that the coolant pipe was in place, the thermostat can be installed. I have a box of spare hoses and cobbled together the pieces I needed to make the three connections, (coolant pipe to top of thermostat, thermostat to water pump, bottom of thermostat to bottom fitting on radiator). Some trimming with an Exacto knife and we were in business. My box of assorted hose clamps finished the job nicely. Spark Plugs When I order the 22mm x 2mm O-rings for the coolant pipe, I ordered 2 sets of spark plugs (Bosch and NGK) for the S-14. I also ordered the Hazet spark plug socket at the same time from Amazon, (wow, very expensive part). I pulled the original plugs, (Bosch), looks like the motor was running rich and replaced them with the new Bosch set. I didn't want to change out the 8mm Mallory spark plug wires or cut them and install new distributor boots, so I ditched the spark plug loom and installed them on the EDIS-4 Coil pack on the firewall. This should work for initial startup and I'll look into something more elegant later. Remaining Tasks I still need to figure out how I am going to marry the passenger side heater core hose to the bigger connection on the back of the head. To make matters worse, the connection on the back of the head is just below the Deutsch connector for all the wiring to the ECU. I'm still trying to figure this one out. The driver's side connection is straight forward for the heater core. I ran a new booster hose from the intake to the brake booster and installed the one-way valve. Both the fuel lines are connected. Next week I'll be fabricating a throttle cable linkage so I can test and calibrate the TPS. As soon as I finish these tasks, I'll install the steering wheel, driveshaft and prep the car for initial start. Thanks for checking in, Mark92131

I used these when I assembled my center console. 20PCS M5 Flat Head Washer Gasket Countersunk Alloy Aluminum for RC Car Buggy Truck (Black) Mark92131 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KXCVLZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Also available in M3. 20 PCS M3 Head Washers Gaskets Aluminum Alloy Countersunk Cup Shim for Screw Multicolor Drone (Black) https://www.amazon.com/Washers-Gaskets-Aluminum-Countersunk-Multicolor/dp/B072N4N2VP/ref=d_m_crc_dp_lf_d_t1_sccl_3_1/133-0966880-4755015?pd_rd_w=Kfw07&content-id=amzn1.sym.5d471845-5073-424b-b27b-c0676f48a016&pf_rd_p=5d471845-5073-424b-b27b-c0676f48a016&pf_rd_r=M0ZNYJC2YGFZKZMACA5A&pd_rd_wg=7WlWn&pd_rd_r=0a62bd67-5de5-4814-9c1a-cadc334c07c9&pd_rd_i=B072N4N2VP&psc=1

The M3 flywheel has a rectangular metal lug that the Motronic sensors use for engine timing. This lug interferes with the Getrag 245 bellhousing in several (3) places, the worst being at the timing view hole. You can clearance the Getrag 245 bellhousing using a Dremel, or you can have your machinist remove this lug (I believe it is pressed in) and rebalance your M3 flywheel. Mark92131

I have a couple, shipping won't be cheap. PM me. Mark92131

The car is in SoCal on the coast. Not a lot of days require A/C, so I'll leave that for the next owner. Thanks, Mark

Flush with carb cleaner? Any tricks for cleaning the filter? For future reference. Mark92131

I also have a 1970 BMW 1602 in Nevada. Conserv is correct, people love the CN36's. Order them from Longstone Tyres in the UK, take 3 or 4 days to arrive. Mark92131 185/70 R 13 Tyres - Set of 4 Classic PIRELLI CINTURATO ™ CN36 WWW.LONGSTONETYRES.CO.UK The PIRELLI CINTURATO CN36 185/70 R13 is a great value tyre considering its quality, this set of 4 tyres makes them extra good value. We also have: Single 185/70 VR 13 PIRELLI CINTURATO CN36, Set of 5 off 185/70R13 PIRELLI CINTURATO CN36. 185/70 R13 From the 1960’s through the...