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Mark92131

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Everything posted by Mark92131

  1. Mark92131
    I moved the trunk mounted battery to under the seat in my 1976. I wanted a way to shut it down and charge it without pulling the seat and came up with this... Mark92131
  2. Mark92131
    Mine was pressed on. The pricing on the Bosch fan motor has skyrocketed since I bought mine. Maybe not as viable a solution at that price. There must be companies that rebuild fan motors? Mark92131
  3. Mark92131
    Pull a spark plug, ground it on the block, turn the motor over, are you getting a nice clean spark? If not, re-check the wiring on the coil to the 123 Ignition distributor. You have a lot of connections on that coil. Rotor installed? What ignition map do you have programmed? If I wasn't getting spark, I would consider resetting the motor to TDC and reinstalling that 123 distributor from scratch. Mark92131
  4. Mark92131
    Try getting some penetrating oil on the shaft were it exits the back of the motor. It should spin pretty freely and not bind if possible. The fan blades should spin almost a full rotation with the flick of a finger. If you can get it free and spinning, put some power to it. It is either going to work or it's not. I've had fan motors with a slight bind, overcome the resistance with some help under power, by carefully spinning the fan to get it started. I needed to keep lubing the shaft until it would spin on it's own under power. Good luck, Mark92131
  5. Mark92131
    Were they ever there? My gas pedal lever has splines, but not the outside lever. My pedal box lever was slipping like yours and I had no more adjustment at the pinch point. I removed the pinch bolt and nut on the lever and opened up the crack with a cutoff wheel to give more "pinch". No more slipping. Mark92131
  6. Mark92131
    You can buy the acorn valve cover nuts and washers on Belmetric.com. Mark92131 Acorn Nut Stainless DIN 1587 - BelMetric BELMETRIC.COM Bel-Metric sells metric hardware & specialty automotive supplies nationwide. Visit our website to purchase metric fasteners, nuts, bolts, Time-Sert kits & more.
  7. Mark92131
    Home Depot, in the section that has metal parts to support building with 4x4 and 2x4 lumber. It was the exact size to fit the plastic bracket and I secured it with bolts and nuts, not rivets. Like Mike said, probably overkill. The valve was tested with a old section of garden hose, not leaking, so I left it alone. Mark92131
  8. Mark92131
    I was lucky, the slab in my garage was just over 4". I installed the posts with the MaxJax anchors, torqued them to spec, and left them in place. Well worth the investment for me, and if I move, it will be coming with me. Perfect for the 2002, but I don't think I would be comfortable working under my wife's Porsche Cayenne. Mark92131
  9. Mark92131
    James: When I restored my early heater box, the fan motor was toast. I used the Auto Dynamik fix to purchase a Porsche Fan, Bosch, part # 0 130 007 002 for around $60 and the $6 Granger plastic computer fan, part # 5JLL6 and drilled it 15/64 for a press on fit. Worked perfect and used the original clips to mount it back in the top section of the Heater box. Replaced the wiring and this piece was done. Hopefully your fan motor can be revived, but this work around may work for you, if your fan motor is dead. Mark92131
  10. Mark92131
    Yes I would try to get it working in place. First try to get the fan to turn by sticking a wooden dowel through the slats on the motor housing and try moving the fan blades. If it spins easily, hook up a 12V source and see if it spins. If the fan doesn't turn by hand, you need to lube the motor until it does spin freely. This may require drilling out the rivets to break down the box to remove the motor from the housing. Don't lose the 4 clips that hold the motor to the housing. These just hook on to the motor and are easily removed from the housing by lifting the end with a flat screw driver at the housing. Mark92131
  11. Mark92131
    Like others have said, your #1 piston needs to be at TDC. You verify this by lining up the "OT" line on the flywheel in the viewing hole at the back of the block. You can also verify this with the TDC notch on the crank pulley pulley at the front of the engine. Then you need to position your cam to TDC by turning it using the method explained by @Son of Marty until the notch/line on the front of the cam is lined up with the oil bar on the head. Then you reinstall the timing chain sprocket on the cam. If you have maintained the sprocket position on the timing chain, the holes should line up with the bolt holes on the cam. Otherwise, you may need to adjust the sprocket position on the chain to get them to line up. This is not usually a profanity inducing task on the 2002, plenty of others in that category, (brake linkage "bitch clip", etc.) 😉 Mark92131
  12. Mark92131
    Yes you need a timing light. First, have you found the ball in the viewing port by turning the motor over by hand (spark plugs out) while you look down the hole with a flashlight? Some have reported flywheels without the ball. Another trick is to lightly stick a pencil (eraser end) into the hole while the car is running to clean the ball if present, you will feel the ball hit the eraser and it will be easier to see. Once found, you can take a kabab skewer dip it in white paint and paint the ball. Once the ball has been verified, start the car, turn your idle speed screw on your car up so the tach reads 1500 RPM, loosen the 10mm nut on the distributor and have an assistant slowly turn the distributor back and forth while you aim the timing light down the hole looking for the ball. If the RPM is still at 1500, line the leading edge of the ball with the flat side of the hole on the driver's side, tighten the 10mm nut at the base of the distributor and your are done. If the RPM has dropped or increased during the distributor turning, use the idle screw to bring it back to 1500 and keep adjusting the distributor until the ball is lined up and you are at 1500 RPM, then tighten the 10mm nut at the base of the distributor and your are done. If you don't have a ball you can dial this in with a variable timing light. Mark92131
  13. Mark92131
    Make sure your pedal lever inside the car is straight. Mine was bent and was limiting the travel of the arm by the gas pedal. To make sure the arm is tight enough on the splines, you can take remove the throttle arm from the pedal box and take a cutoff wheel to open up crack slightly, so the tightening bolt has more travel to chinch the throttle arm to the splines. Yours looks maxed out. Yes, in theory this may help. Remember, in the OEM setup, the throttle lever is pulling the rod straight down vertically to maximize the travel. In your current application's angle, you aren't pulling much of the cable until the throttle arm passes horizontal. That's why I ended up fabricating the "L" bracket for the booster support to position cable for a vertical pull with the throttle arm. Mark92131
  14. Mark92131
    You would get more pull if the cable connection at the lever was more vertical instead of inline with the lever itself. I solved this on my car by running the cable along side support for the brake booster and attaching it to a "L" bracket I fabricated. It allows the pedal box lever to pull the cable straight down. The pull on the S14 is different so I fabricated two pieces, the "L" bracket that attaches to the side of the brake booster support and another piece that attaches to the top bolts holding the booster to the support. Mark92131
  15. Mark92131
    Here are the parts required. Most are ended or NLA, but you can use some of the part numbers to search eBay or post a WTB ad on the FAQ. Lots of CA owners have removed the smog equipment from their 75 cars and have these parts sitting on a shelf in their garage. Mark92131
  16. Mark92131
    The capped hose under the carb connects to the EGR Valve. The EGR Valve has 4 connections, the red hose in your picture to the red valve on your firewall, a vacuum connection to the control valve, the uncapped connection in your picture, and a connection to the EGR filter that sits under your intake manifold that connects to a braided metal hose running to your exhaust manifold. The diverter valve in your 2nd picture connects to your smog pump, the connection to exhaust manifold (through the check valve) and a vacuum connection on the front of your intake manifold. You need to verify these connections and order the missing correct hoses. The emissions stuff is in the engine section of RealOEM.com for your 76. Mark92131
  17. Mark92131
    The round motor mount was new, not NOS. Seemed very solid, and fit the metal cup perfectly. I deleted the fan and modified the S14 water pump pulley for maximum space between the radiator and the pulley (3/4"). Also have the passenger side motor mount retaining strap in place. We'll see how it goes on start-up. Mark92131
  18. Mark92131
    I originally had the square one installed with the motor and trans in the subframe, but the side to side and up and down movement of the trans in the tunnel seemed excessive with it. So I installed a new round motor mount which seems to do a much better job supporting the trans before getting a jack under it. We'll see how it holds up. Mark92131
  19. Mark92131
    Bought the Harbor Freight unit specifically to support the motor while I flipped the metal cap on the driver's side motor mount. Worked like a charm. I'm sure i'll use it again before I'm done with this restoration. Mark92131
  20. Mark92131
    Reply sent. M.
  21. Mark92131
    PM Sent. Mark92131
  22. Mark92131
    My turn signal switch for the 1970 BMW 1600 isn't working in the left turn position. Part number 61318648072, the number on the switch itself is 1183202001.2 (8147). I need a working switch, good continuity between #54 and "R", "L", "PR" and "PL" when switch engaged, turn signal cancel working correctly, "H" ground pull switch for wiper/washer functioning correctly. Let me know if you have one in your stash. Mark92131
  23. Mark92131
    Classic Carl! (Owner, La Jolla Independent) Mark92131
  24. Mark92131
    You will need to sort these out. You may want to check if the smog pump turns, they are getting hard to find if seized. The original vacuum connection to the fuel return valve was correct, no need to cap it. The replacement distributor should have both a vacuum retard and advance port for a manual 1976 car. Hopefully your smog tester won't notice. Getting a 1976 to smog in CA is challenging, but very doable. You are well on your way to getting all the components hooked up properly, keep going! Mark92131
  25. Mark92131
    Wouldn't the three mounting bolts provide an adequate ground path for the starter motor? I'm trying to isolate the aluminum mounting surface from the heat of the block, (thin fiber washers or paper gasket?), to see if that helps or fixes the issue. Mark92131
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