Mark92131

Pablo: Roll you car in gear to line up the TDC line "OT" on the flywheel with the straight edge of the viewing port in the bell housing. Pull the valve cover and verify that both the exhaust and intake Cam lobes of #1 cylinder are not engaging the rocker arms and pushing the valves open, (this is TDC on the compression stroke). Now is also a good time to verify that the line on the front of the cam is lined up with the oil bar. If it isn't lined up, your cam is not installed properly and your timing will be off. You will need to pull the upper cam chain sprocket, stick 2 bolts in the front of the cam and use a screw driver to turn the cam so the line on the cam lines up with the oil bar, then re-install the cam chain sprocket. Re-install the valve cover and tackle the distributor. I would suggest installing the 123 distributor. If you have completed the first step, the motor is now in TDC on the compression stroke and installing the 123 distributor should be easy. You basically can stab it in the distributor housing in any position, but I usually have the rotor pointing to the front passenger side of the engine compartment when it engages with the distributor drive gear. The rotor will be pointing at the #1 position, install the cap and plug in the #1 sparkplug wire with the cap terminal that lines up with the rotor. Continue clockwise with #3, #4, and #2 sparkplug wires. After the electrical connections are made, follow the 123 distributor directions to turn the distributor to get the "Green" light in the distributor housing, (this synchs the distributor to TDC for programming you advance maps). Use your bluetooth 123 app on your phone to build a starting advance Map using the Blue Book figures for the Tii, see attached. After starting the engine, you need to use your timing light to verify that the advance values in your map match the values your motor is producing, (say your map has 15 degrees BTDC at 1000 RPM, then set your RPM to 1000 and use your variable timing light to verify the the motor is 15 degrees) If it is, all good, if it isn't, you need to turn your distributor body back and forth slightly until the advance is 15 degress BTDC at 1000 RPM. If it is still running poorly, time to move to the fuel side, because your ignition should be solid. Mark92131

RealOEM calls for 2 M10 x 75 and 1 M10 x 80 Bolts for the starter install. There is a M10 wave washer on the trans side and a M10 Wave washer and nut on the starter side. No need for lock-tight. Check BelMetric for the proper fasteners. Mark92131

Me, too! The raffle car was at the SoCal Vintage on Saturday. A very nice restoration. There was another 2002 Nevada car that was also on display that was also restored to a high level. Slight differences in the paint formulas, but both would look great in anyone's garage. Mark92131

The screw head does extend beyond the clip, but not enough to contact the backside of the trim when installed. I used rivnuts to hold the trim in, to see if I could get the clips to sit farther away from the body using washers behind the clip. Still didn't work with the 320i clips. The paint is Glasurit in Nevada, expensive, but looks like the car was dipped in it. Mark92131

It should according to RealOEM. The 240's in the E30 318i used an electronic speedo. The 1.8 isn't exactly a world beater. I wouldn't go through the trouble of rebuilding it. I would sell it as is or part it out. The injection parts (intake manifold, fuel rail) are very popular for people that are converting to EFI and are worth keeping if you are headed in that direction. Mark92131

That one goes behind the center console. Mark92131

The 76 uses a 215mm clutch disk, same as the 320i, so they should be interchangeable, don't know about the pressure plate. The 4 speed throw out bearing is part # 21511204225. These have gotten stupid expensive as late, best price I found on a quick search was $80 on eBay. SACHS BMW 1500 1502 2000 2002 2500 CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING 3151040131 WWW.EBAY.COM NEW SACHS CLUTCH RELEASE BEARING FOR A FROM A RECENT PART BUYOUT, UNTOUCHED FOR 30+ YEARS.

If you are strapped for cash, you could just replace/fix the things that need replacing/fixing. Pull the radiator, have it pressure tested and see if they can seal it. Pull the 4 speed, remove the flywheel and clutch, and see if the main seal is leaking. New pilot bearing, new main seal if leaking, clean the flywheel, inspect the clutch for wear and replace if needed, replace throw-out bearing and re-install the trans. Save the 5 speed and cooling system refresh for another day when you have more cash. Back in the day, I would daily-drive mine, so repairs were pretty much limited to what I could do in a weekend. Mark92131

I'm hoping that any air in the head will be eliminated when the thermostat opens. The gravity feed for this solution is significantly better than the E30 design which routes the coolant from the front of the head to the back of the head and finally down to the reservoir. We'll see how it goes. Mark92131

OK, so last time I checked in, I discovered that the coolant return line to my custom radiator was above the lip for the radiator cap. I had a plug in one of the fittings for the sensors in the thermostat housing, so I bought a M14 to 1/8" NPT adapter and a 1/8" NPT 5/16" hose barb and installed it in the housing. I ran the 5/16" hose from the front of the head down to the thermostat housing and added some additional deluxe clamps to seal it up. While I was in there, I fabricated a bracket so the Idle Control Valve filter would sit above the alternator. Bought 5 gallons of premium to fill the gas tank and check the fuel pump and lines. Mark92131

Maybe German delivery had paint to order custom options? Granatrot-Metallic was offered on late 2002 and 320i models, but not on the list of colors available to Hoffman cars for 1968, per @Conserv. Granatrot is a very cool color! Mark92131

One of my Catch Can pictures made the Google list. Here's my latest with matching oil cooler. Mark92131

I had my motor and trans assembled in the subframe for installation from the bottom. With the square new design, the motor and trans had significant lateral movement in the subframe that would distort the motor mount. This lateral movement may be by design? I switched back to the round one with the metal cup and the lateral movement was abated. We'll see how long the round one lasts. Mark92131

All '02's after September 1, 1972 when Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard 215 was mandated. Just didn't realize that Euro cars got the same treatment. It does make sense that BMW didn't want to stock 2 different strut bearings, one with long studs for US cars and one with short studs for Euro cars. Mark92131

I changed the oil filter on the S14 and added 5 quarts of Mobil, 1 15-50W oil while preparing for a first start. Decided to go ahead and fill the radiator with new Prestone 50/50. Everything was going as planned until I noticed a drip on the passenger side. I had a leak at the thermostat housing wear I used a M12 adapter to fit a sensor for my water temp gauge. I tried tightening the sensor but could not stop the drip. It also seemed to be leaking from one of the upper clamps. I drained the radiator, pulled the adapter for the sensor, removed the sensor and put a dab of RTV on the sensor threads, reinstalled the sensor, reinstalled the adapter in the thermostat housing and replaced one of the upper clamps that was stripped from overtightening. I refilled the radiator and WTF, the dripping continued. On closer examination, I determined that the M12 plug I used to replace on of the OEM sensors on the thermostat housing was also leaking. I was able to tighten this plug and the leak stopped, yeah! I had this radiator custom made in China and originally had requested a bung in the upper tank to connect my water connection from the cylinder head (this connection originally runs to the stock reservoir). During the manufacturing process, I decided that instead of a bung, I could simply add a connection to the filler neck to route the water from the cylinder head to the radiator. While filling the radiator a second time, I noticed something that made me sick to my stomach. Apparently, they welded the fitting for the water return above the lip for sealing the radiator cap, not below it, so water from the head could flow back to the tank. Now I need to figure out how to remedy this issue before starting the car. Mark92131

That is a very cool project. What can you tell us about the car? Tii drivetrain swap? Lot's of Euro bits, but sporting DOT spacers on top of the strut bearing? You should have some fun with this one! Mark92131

They use a grommet. Mark92131 51145480178 Genuine BMW Grommet | BMW Parts Deal WWW.BMWPARTSDEAL.COM Genuine 51145480178 Grommet fits 1967-1976 BMW 1602, 2002, 2002tii. BMW Parts Deal offers 51-14-5-480-178 for $8.32.

Once you get the timing advance verified, focus on this. Idle jet clogged, needle damaged, wrong idle jet, something is preventing you from achieving "best idle" for your motor. Mark92131

This may help you... Mark92131 BMW 2002 Hood Adjustment.pdf

No, I have the same issue, except using the white 320i rocker clips. With the clips in the existing rocker holes, I could not get the MVP rocker trim to catch and hold the upper and lower tangs on the clips. I thought the clips were too close to the body, so I modified the passenger side by drilling out the rocker holes and installing riv nuts. Then I cut off the plugs on the back of the rocker clips and used a couple of washers behind the clip to push it out away from the body and screwed them into the riv nut. This didn't work either! I ended up buying a set of the OEM style rocker clips from Maximillian, but haven't had the courage to modify them, and make a second try at getting them installed. I have an original rocker and may try installing it to see if the OEM version will fit the modified white clips. Mark92131