Mark92131

This will also work... Mark92131 Oil Pump Support Bracket – 2002/NK – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each Oil Pump Supporting Plate – 2002 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each

Mark made me a custom panel for the Becker Mono radio in the Cabriolet. Construction was top shelf. I hope he gets back into the game. Mark92131

That open port above the idle mixture screw in your picture needs to be capped or connected to the advance pod on your distributor. With that much gas in the bottom of your intake, some of it may have found its way into your exhaust. Still sounds like a timing issue. Did you complete the timing check list I provided? Compression? If you have a couple of dead holes, it won't fire. Mark92131

Check out @bergie33 post in the what you did today thread on his use of Bar Keepers Friend to clean up his vent window frames. He references @mvliotta work on removing the anodized coating. It was a lot of work, but the results were awesome. Mark92131

They have been saying that about the early grill reproduction for about 2 years, ;-). Mark92131

The mounts look good, but you are missing the retaining strap on the passenger side motor mount which prevents your motor from moving forward into your radiator. Mark92131

The dimensions for the BMW 2002 Chinese radiators sold on eBay are off by quite a bit. They use standard cores which are either too skinny or too tall to fit the stock opening. I contacted one of these vendors about a custom radiator for my S14 swap, sent them the dimensions I needed and they made me one. Fit perfect, good welds, 1/2 price. Might be an option for you. Mark92131

IE has them. Mark92131

Yes, I have looked and no one sells these new. Mine are pitted and I was hoping to find a better pair to restore. I've seen some threads of people that have stripped the anodized coating and polished them up to look brand new. I also heard that people have shined them up with Bar Keeper's Friend cleanser with good results. Mark92131

I have some spare oil pump shims if you need them. Your pistons cleaned up nice! Mark92131

I spent my morning cleaning up the sins of my past. While I was under the car last month working on the 5 speed install, I decided I could just quickly attach the IE 5 speed clutch line to the clutch master at the pedal box. All well and good until the fitting cross threaded. I order a tap and die set for that fitting and tried to repair it on the car, nope, both the clutch line fitting and the clutch master would not take the die or the tap properly. Pulled the clutch slave, 2 minutes on the bench and the tap did its magic. I ordered a 1.0mm thread file to see if I could repair the threads on the clutch line fitting without removing the 5 speed slave. Should be here tomorrow, fingers crossed. Mark92131

Is the head vent routed below the pressure seal of the radiator cap? Yes, is that going to be a problem? It normally runs to the back of the head and just dumps into the reservoir? Mark92131

My car had most of the original interior removed before I acquired it. Over the years I have pieced together a "matching" set of the darker saddle interior pieces, including a "new" set of front seats with chrome recliners that @FunElan's dad removed from his brand new Tii and replaced with Recaros. Mark92131

Haven't fired it yet, I am a couple weeks out, still solving problems. Mark92131

Do those Saddle door panels have the chrome strips on the top edge? The black versions they sell on eBay appear to have the chrome top strip installed, but I can't tell from pictures that the Saddle versions have those top chrome strips. I have the same concerns with the mix and match saddle interior issues you are experiencing with my Nevada car. Mark92131

Sometimes the Bluetooth App has issues with Phone OS. Do you have someone with an Iphone in your life? Have them download the iPhone version of the 123 App and see if they can connect and read the initial stock curve to eliminate issues with your Samsung phone. If it can read the initial curve, the edit button will be enabled to allow you to change it. Mark92131

I had one of the Chinese manufacturers that sell on eBay make me a custom radiator for my S14 swap. They advertise a stock radiator for the 2002, but the dimensions are off. I measured my car for the OEM opening, provided a drawing of where I wanted the hose connections and they built it in 2 days and shipped it to me. It fit perfect out of the box. I did need to get creative with the hoses and cobbled together connections for the upper radiator hose and S14 thermostat. If you want to go this route, hit me up and I'll send you my drawing and contact for the manufacturer. Mark92131

Which 123 Ignition distributor are you using, Bluetooth, USB, or Switched? Did you enter an ignition curve? On the USB version, you should be able to select between Dashboard and Settings tab in the Application. From Settings, you should be able to edit Curve 1 or Curve 2 and then switch between them. I had a Bluetooth version in my Cab and had connection issues and curve reading issues. There was a manual reset provided by the 123 Ignition help that resolved all my problems. If you can't get your application to read your distributor's curves, you may want to contact 123 ignition for this reset hack. Mark92131

The driver's side photo shows one top washer, the detent that looks like a second washer is the lip that secures the rubber cap that protects the nut and threads and cleans up the aesthetics of the trunk. Mark92131

Too rusty to save 75 with title and nicer 75 (hot?) with no title? Swap the riveted on VIN plate and license plates between the 2 cars, put a sticker over the stamped VIN on the body and keep paying the registration fees. Mark92131

The upper washer on the passenger side is covered by the nipple-like cap that protects the top nut and threads. The driver's side is missing the cap. What we can't see is if there was a matching washer on the bottom side of the rubber grommet. Without the bottom and top washers compressing the rubber grommet, or the bottom washer missing, the grommet can be pushed out of the hole in the shock tower or will tear in half. Mark92131

2361590, A 1975 Model, Manual Transmission, built between July and December 1974. It would be interesting to know if that VIN is still in the system. Mark92131

Verifying Spark and Fuel to the carb is a good start. So other things to check would be as follows: 1. Adjust the valves 2. Compression, pull all the plugs (clean and gap them) and run a compression test 3. Ignition - verify TDC for plug #1, pull the valve cover, rotate engine until both #1 valves are off cam (closed) and cam mark lines up with oil bar and Flywheel TDC mark is lined up in view hole above starter. 4. Verify that rotor is pointed at #1 spark plug lead on cap and leads clockwise are in proper firing order. 5. Turn engine over until points block is on the highest point of distributor shaft cam and adjust points gap to .016" 6. Reinstall rotor, cap, spark plugs, spark plug/coil lead(s) 7. Slightly loosen the 10mm nut on the base of the distributor so you can turn it clockwise or counter clockwise with some effort. 8. Spray a shot of starter fluid down the carb throat (open choke flaps). 9. Have an assistant try and start the car. It should fire and run. If it fires and dies, you are just running on the starting fluid and the carb is not working correctly, (clogged idle jet, float adjustment, etc.). If it does not catch (fire) while cranking, the ignition timing maybe off, so you can slowly turn the distributor back and forth while your assistant cranks it over to see if you can get it fire. Other will have more... Mark92131

I had this same issue with my 1975. Used 10 quarts of oil driving picking up my daughter at UCSC and back to San Diego. Got home, pulled the head, replaced valve guides, seats and seals, and installed a new cam. After reassembly, oil consumption was normal. My piston tops were way worse than yours. Hope you get it back on the road soon. Mark92131