Mark92131

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My turn signal switch for the 1970 BMW 1600 isn't working in the left turn position. Part number 61318648072, the number on the switch itself is 1183202001.2 (8147). I need a working switch, good continuity between #54 and "R", "L", "PR" and "PL" when switch engaged, turn signal cancel working correctly, "H" ground pull switch for wiper/washer functioning correctly. Let me know if you have one in your stash. Mark92131

Classic Carl! (Owner, La Jolla Independent) Mark92131

You will need to sort these out. You may want to check if the smog pump turns, they are getting hard to find if seized. The original vacuum connection to the fuel return valve was correct, no need to cap it. The replacement distributor should have both a vacuum retard and advance port for a manual 1976 car. Hopefully your smog tester won't notice. Getting a 1976 to smog in CA is challenging, but very doable. You are well on your way to getting all the components hooked up properly, keep going! Mark92131

Wouldn't the three mounting bolts provide an adequate ground path for the starter motor? I'm trying to isolate the aluminum mounting surface from the heat of the block, (thin fiber washers or paper gasket?), to see if that helps or fixes the issue. Mark92131

You seem to have a lot of 12V accessories attached to the input to the starter with questionable ring connections. This probably isn't your problem, but probably isn't helping your non-start issue. I am having the exact same issue with my son's 1991 BMW 318IS. My theory is heat sink into the starter/solenoid. I would start with no issues all winter. Now that temperatures have increased, the dash lights on, but no start/click happens after driving it awhile. He let's it cool down and magically it starts again. We replaced the DME relay that has been reported to cause similar issues, but that didn't fix it. I'm going to pull the starter next weekend and replace it. I'm thinking of using some thin fiber washers to isolate the starter motor from the block (phenolic spacer) to reduce the possibility of heat reaching the starter and solenoid. Mark92131

Yes, I have a couple of Summer Boxes. PM me. Mark92131

Passenger side strut bearing not assembled correctly on the strut will make a clunking sound over bumps. Mark92131

Then Starter, Oil Separator, ICV? Maybe the Intake Control Valve is trying to shut and making that grinding sound. You can unplug it and see if the noise stops/changes. Mark92131

That is a strange one! When the bendix gear engages with a rotating flywheel, it usually has a ringing with the grinding. This one sounds like cut-off wheel at the end of the video. It also doesn't seem to change with the change in RPM except at the end when the idle drops and it seems to go away for second. What transmission is behind the S14, Getrag 265 or 245? Does the noise change with the clutch engaged? Mark92131

Awesome find, matches your Dad's Cab! Congrats! Mark92131

OK, it seems to be the switch. Magically, after a few cycles of testing, turn the key, the motor doesn't engage, pull the switch, the motor runs. Is there a way to clean/lubricate (spray) these switches, they haven't been used in long time and I suspect the contacts are gummed up. The head light low/high/flash lever was also working intermittently and I suspect it is gummed up also. By the way, the 1600 didn't have relays for the headlights. I bought one of those conversion kits off of eBay and installed it, works great, plug and play in 15 minutes. Mark92131

So I finished the drivetrain install on my S14 swap and moved on to testing the electrical systems. The car (1970 BMW 1600) came to me as a rolling shell with many of the parts missing or untested. I hooked up the battery for the first time, turned the key to the Driving position and battery charge warning light, the oil pressure warning light, and the Low brake fluid light is on (strange because the reservoir is full). But the main issue is the wiper motor turns in the low speed setting in this key position, even though the dash switch is pushed in. If you pull the wiper switch out to the first position, the wiper motor speeds up to the high speed setting, and stays in the high speed setting when the switch is pulled all the way out. Does this behavior indicate bad switch or bad motor? Any thoughts on how one would go about testing/troubleshooting this issue? TIA, Mark92131

If you are looking for the shorter bracket, not the 73 version that looks like a "Y", the part number is 51115470020. These are available at Wallothnesch. Mark92131 Bumper bracket fits for left + right side for all models up to 1971 you need 2 for 1 car WWW.WALLOTHNESCH.COM Bumper bracket fits for left + right side for all models up to 1971 you need 2 for 1 car

I believe that the later swan mirror base has the same mounting hole positions as the Flag and Trap mirrors and the early swan mirror mounting holes are wider apart, requiring some modifications to mount on later cars. It also means that if you could buy the base gaskets separately, they won't fit your later swan mirror base, (I thought I remembered someone 3D printing the base gaskets for the later Swan mirrors?). Mark92131

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Here's my tuck... Mark92131

I got an e-mail that the Swan Neck Reproduction mirrors were now available. Hopefully, their early grill set is near completion. Mark92131 Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy WWW.MVPVINTAGEPARTS.COM Manufacturer of Vintage Car Parts,MVP,BMW2002,BMW,bmwclassiccars,bmwclassic,bmw2002classic,bmw02club,mvpvintageparts,recreate a legacy

OK, it's been a while, but the road to the next milestone, (firing the motor) is getting shorter. In the last post, I had some things that needed solving, how to marry the passenger side heater core hose to the bigger connection on the back of the head and other issues like throttle cable linkage and installing the driveshaft. I happy to report that most of those issues are resolved. Coolant Connections I needed to connect the passenger side heater core to the back of the head and the upper radiator hose to shortened coolant pipe. All solutions were found on Amazon. I had the original hose out of the back of the head, found a 3/4 to 5/8 hose barb fitting reducer and used it to connect the 5/8 heater hose from the heater core. The upper radiator hose was trickier, the connection to the coolant pipe was 36mm and the radiator upper connector was 32mm. I found silicone 38mm hose with a 90 degree elbow bend and a 32mm hose with a 90 degree elbow bend, cut them to size and married them together with a 1.25" to 1.5" coupler/reducer. Transmission/Driveshaft This was more challenging than it needed to be. First off, the car had originally been set up for a Getrag 245 5-speed. The factory mounts had been cut off and rewelded in the transmission tunnel. So easy, just use these existing mounts. No so fast, the original owner was probably using a "dangler" shift platform, because the lower brace setup on the Blunt 5-speed shift platform was interfering with the transmission mount on the driver's side. I thought about cutting out the repositioned factory mounts, but ended up modifying the lower brace that attaches to the trans, slotting the mounting hole so I could move it up to clear the transmission mount. The transmission support was fabricated from a piece of "C" Channel stock I bought at Home Depot. I slotted the support bar mounting holes for some adjustment and also slotted the hole for the rubber transmission mount (E3). When the transmission tail was lifted up, it sat pretty much in the middle of the tunnel, but the shift platform was pushed to the passenger side. With the slotted, hole for the rubber transmission mount I was able to move the transmission closer to the driver's side of the tunnel and center the platform. Now the easy part, just install the driveshaft, NOT! I had purchased this pre-shortened driveshaft from IE years back, but had never tried to install it in a car. I installed the metal alignment Guibo from @halboyles at 2002sOnly on the driveshaft and bolted it to the output flange of the Getrag 245 and then attached the center bearing to the frame to see how square and level the front section of the driveshaft was sitting without any shimming. Turns out it was pretty square at the stock position, but I added a larger fender washer under the E3 rubber transmission mount to lift the output flange slightly and it sat perfectly square. I swapped out the metal Guibo for the OEM rubber one, loosely reattached the center bearing and moved back to the differential connection. Nope, the driveshaft was about 3/8" too long. I loosened the 4 nuts holding the differential to the subframe and loosened the nuts on the differential hanger and pushed the differential back as far as it would go, still about 1/4"too long. OK, maybe I can get the motor to move forward 1/4". I loosened the motor mounts (swapped the driver's side motor mount completely out because the metal cup was installed facing the wrong way), and pushed the motor forward as far as it would go and retorqued the motor mounts. The differential flange and driveshaft were square, but their is a 1-2mm round ridge in center of the driveshaft shaft flange that still would not clear. I finally removed all the large 19mm bolts and nut holding the differential to the subframe and managed to slide the round ridge into the mating cup on the differential. I torqued the Guibo nuts, the driveshaft to differential nuts, the differential to subframe nuts, the differential hanger nuts and finally preloaded the center bearing and bolted that in. While I was under there, I noticed that the front sway bar was nearly touching the passenger side strut, while the driver's side had a 3/4' gap. I loosened all the sway bar attachments and used a rubber mallet to persuade the sway bar to an even position between the strut tubes. Retightened everything and breathed a sigh of relief that the drivetrain was finally complete. Brakes and Clutch In my last blog post, I mentioned my bonehead idea of connecting the clutch slave cylinder hose to the clutch master and promptly cross threading the fitting. OK, so while I was struggling with the transmission and driveshaft, I decided to correct my mistake. I pulled the clutch master, put it on the bench and used a M10 x 1.0 tap to clean up the buggered threads in the clutch master. For the fitting for the clutch slave hose to the master, the M10 x 1.0 Die wasn't threading straight, so I purchased Metric thread restoring file and used it to clean up the fitting. I attached the clutch master to the hose fitting under the car and then installed the clutch master back in the pedal box. Now that all the connections we good, I filled the brake fluid reservoir with fresh Dot 4 and used my homemade pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes and clutch. Everything was going great until I noticed a small pool of brake fluid under the rear subframe. The hard line fitting from the rear splitter to the passenger side control arm soft line was leaking under pressure. I used a "crows foot" to hold the soft line fitting so I tighten the hard line fitting and the leak stopped. It didn't take long to get the air out and the brake pedal was firm. The clutch was quick and easy, no leaks or drama. Throttle Cable I have done a number of throttle cable solutions for my cars over the years, (mostly Lynx, based on the TEP solution). The S14 conversion is a little challenging because the throttle lever pull in up on top of the motor and I'm not using the stock air cleaner. So I decided to fabricate something that should give me a working throttle until I come up with something better. First I had to straighten the "Z" lever for the gas pedal, so removed it and beat it into shape. I found some metal pieces at Home Depot and used my angle grinder to fabricate a plate that attaches to the top 2 studs that hold the brake booster to the brake booster support. I then bent that plate to fold over the brake booster and give me a spot to weld on a bracket to hold the cable that connects to the throttle lever. The other bracket is just an "L" that attaches to passenger side of the pedal box support structure that attaches to the brake booster support. I attached a cable fitting to the end of the throttle lever on the pedal box, ran a wire through the sleeve between the two brackets I fabricated, and attached the other end to throttle lever on the ITB's using a barrel fitting to hold the wire. It's not the best solution, but it works and I did manage to get it to pull WOT with the stock components. I may rework it with a Bell Crank, but after I get this thing started. Steering I did manage to get the missing horn ring installed and then installed the steering shaft and my 320i Sport Steering Wheel. I tried to order a new shroud for the Sport Wheel because the PO broke off all the plastic pieces holding it to the wheel and tried to glue it on. Turns out that these are now NLA and I did find one in Europe for $200, so I might be regluing mine as well. Of course when I put everything together and tried turning the wheel, it would not turn. I knew I would need to hammer on the down header of the S14 in order to make enough room for the top of the pitman arm nut at the center link to clear the header on the passenger side. I was thinking about why the car steering wheel wouldn't turn and had a epiphany! Maybe the Steering Wheel is LOCKED! Turned the key, Steering Wheel turns, what a dope! I spent the afternoon hammering on the S14 header, man that thing is stout. Eventually, wheel turns lock to lock in both directions. Next Up Electrical systems test Thanks for checking in! Mark92131 IMG_3803.MOV

It depends on what distributor number you are running, a combination of mechanical and vacuum advance at a set peak RPM. Here's a chart for BMW motors that may have your distributor part number. Mark92131

Can you get a small 1/4" socket on those 2 nuts in your last picture with the dash in place? I think that will free the bezel, exposing the screws that hold the lever mechanism to the dash. Pulling the dash is not a fun job. Mark92131

Promotion to Deputy Director of the CIA called for an upgrade in personal transportation. At least the writers were smart enough to stay in the BMW classic family. I hope the 2002 is still in his garage. Mark92131

They come in 1mm and 2.5mm from Ireland Engineering. You stack them until the slack is gone, but the chain deflects slightly. I think I have a couple of 1mm's left from my S14 if you need some. Mark92131

Yes, the shim(s) will correct that sloppy chain. Mark92131 IMG_3447.MOV