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sort77

Solex
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  1. Mike, is do you have the collectors insurance through USAA or regular coverage? I just tried calling them and the guy I spoke to at Customer Service said that getting full coverage on my car wouldn't do much for me since their normal policy isn't stated coverage. He thought the pay out may not be much. Mine is a daily driver and not garaged and I use it for real estate business so I'm having a hard time figuring out what my best options are. I had Wawanesa and my rate just went up 40% for no reason.
  2. sort77

    sort77

  3. Was this a vendor or an owner who got creative? Looks like you're local to me. If it was a vendor and you've got the guys number feel free to pass it along. I'd be interested in talking to him. I believe that fin is supposed to be covered in a black slat anyhow so if I can get something that looked clean enough on the edges and then was pretty much skinned over it could work.
  4. If he really is using that much force it sounds like they're polishing the anodizing right off (?) Especially if hes saying it needs to be waxed ever 3 months. I did this for a bunch of my parts with a buffing wheel. If you're fine with removing the trim, The easier thing would be to bright dip the parts and then buff. Or spend $4 on rubbing compound and put it on a wheel.
  5. And of course I ran across this right after I posted. If anyone has tried welding I'd still like to hear if that worked out for you. I think there are some shops around here that MAY be able to do it but I'm leery of all vendors right now. http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/144056-grille-repair/#comment-940848
  6. Its been a VERY long journey with my car, I got it back in terrible condition after a "restoration" in late June and I've finally got everything working again but the heater fan. A new carb was tuned last week so I was able to finally take it out and enjoy a spirited drive for the first time in well over a year. Sadly, on the way home I heard the distinctive PING! of some aluminum coming off at speed on The 5 somewhere around Arleta on Saturday. This is what I arrived home to discover. [insert sad face] I've owned this car for 12 years and I'd much prefer the zip ties I had before to the damage I got back which resulted in this. I feel like I've got a beauty queen with a black eye and missing some front teeth. So I'm weighing my options. 1) I just heard getting a new one is going to run me about $900. Ouch! And if I get one side new I'll have to get the other. I've replaced most of the aluminum and considering the guy restoring my car mangled these I'm thinking I may just bite the bullet and treat myself to new. Anyone know of any cheaper sources? 2) Has anyone successfully repaired this sort of damage on theirs? Maybe a donor fin would work? I'd love to hear thoughts, experiences. Anyone have a donor fin for me? ha! I feel perhaps only welding would work at this point. :\ 3) If all else fails I'll need a decent drivers side grill to replace these (Jan 72 car). If you have photos of ones you've got laying around feel free to shoot them my way.
  7. Great feedback thanks everyone. I ended up buying some parts belts that should at least get me by while I figure out my options.
  8. So, I'm getting down to the detail work now on what has gone missing/broken during my restoration. The B pillar bolt cap cover from my autoflug seatbelts never came back. The chance of recovering these from the painter are 0%. He's hidding under a rock hoping I go away. Anyone know where one might be able to source something like this online or am I going to have to start searching junk yards? My belts are sort of toast too. One came back broken completely—I'm guessing some irritation at sticking when they were being reinstalled had them force them open and the recoil spring is toast— and both webbings are covered in overspray. I'd have to get them refurbished. all Suggestions, thoughts and condolences are welcome. The photo below is what I'm looking for. Sorry its silly its the only one I could find where I have proof it ever existed.
  9. Would a broken wire in the stalk allow for the wipers to stay on? Not entirely sure how to test it without just getting a new turn signal switch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Oh hey, look what I just found. I'm soldering this back on right now. I'll let you know if this solves things.
  11. Ok so before I disassembled mine I marked the positions the spindle was in on the outside of the motor. For what its worth, Mine was in this positions. May not help but who knows maybe it will.
  12. You and I have the same view right now. My wipers were not working at all when I got it back from my painter. After cleaning a pound of sandblast media out of all my switches, motors, relays and reinstalling. My wipers are working but stay on until the power is cut too. I have a feeling in my case (I tested my motor before putting back in th car) that the inner plate in the "tuna can" didnt get lined up in the right spot after I tested my motor. But I am following your thread. I need some help too. help! & Good luck.
  13. Ok, apparently I needed to walk away last night. Crying in your beer is never a good idea. Hahah, just walk away. Got it sorted out. It wasn't the collar being bent that was the issue (it is bent a little, but not to the extent of the tweak). The entire tube was rotated. Got a little distance from it and Unloosening 4 bolts and twisting the whole tube by hand leveled everything out. This was the culprit. Loosened this guy after Unbolting the collar and spun things. It Moved pretty easily, once loose, in fact. Whew. And now on to the next disaster.
  14. This is what I've been staring at. Once I get things partially assembled. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  15. So this is the part that was missing the bolt. I'm guessing the rotation happened when that bolt was missing. It was difficult but I got it back in and tightened up. But Everything near the switches are still tweaked to the left. When I was able to tighten it up I was hoping that the whole column would level out. No Such luck, not by a country mile Other than it just giving my OCD brian a twitch, I cant put the steering colum surround on properly, The two screws that hold the bottom on near the switches are completely off kilter when tightened where the four bolts go through to hold the top half on. Therefore a functioning horn (since the horn ring is sandwiched in by all the parts) is also gone. And apparently the pressure of everthing being off its causing is making the ignition switch sticky and uphappy. ::sigh:: I'm sitting in my car, with a hot shop light on me and softly crying into my beer. ha. I've mentally concocted so many Acme style Willie-E Coyote style plans but Im terrified of breaking something else trying to get this thing twisted back around to straight. Living with out a horn is pretty bad but I can think of a lot of worse things. There must be a way to do this (?) Also anyone know what this screw is for? Does it have any bearing on this conversation? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
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