Mark92131

Peter, sorry to hear of your Dad's passing. You are a good son for trying to help out your Mom. The good news is that your Dad's car is a 1975 and will not require the bi-annual smog check in California which makes it more desirable for Ca owners that want to do engine modifications. The 1975 "square-tail" wasn't the most collectable BMW 2002, but can fetch prices in the mid to high teens in top condition. Your Dad's car will require some work to get it close to those numbers. First off, your car running and driving will significantly raise the price. @Mike Self had a great recommendation for trying to re-start that engine. I would buy a battery for it, test all the lights and electricals and try to start it. If it is damaged from running without oil, the lower end will probably knock badly and you can use that as a decision point for how to proceed. If the motor is good, I would clean up the interior, install the trim, get the hydraulics sorted (clutch and brakes) and see if runs and drives. This all assumes that you are doing the work yourself. If you aren't mechanically inclined and need someone else to do this work, you can get upside down in a hurry. If the motor is toast, you will need to at a minimum pull the engine, install new main bearings and turn/polish the crank and inspect the previous work. I would budget $1.5K - $4K for this work, depending what the machine shop discovers. If you aren't prepared to go down that path, the car still has value, just not as much. If you just bolted on the trim, washed, waxed and buffed the paint, installed the door cards and detailed the interior and sold it with a motor that needed rebuilding, you could get $6K - $8K for it. As it sits right now in the pictures, you could probably get $4K - $5K for it. IMHO, Mark92131

/images/mini_100/700/713/713-478601.jpg Powermaster 478601: CS130 Offset Right Mount 4.63" Rear Post Alternator 140 Amp - JEGS High Performance WWW.JEGS.COM Alternator; CS130; 105 Amp; Natural; One Wire; Right Mount; This one? Mark92131

A quick update... If you are using a Getrag 245 transmission without installing sensors for the stock Motronic ECU on your S14 and using the S14 flywheel and Pressure Plate, the timing lug on the S14 flywheel will touch the inside of the Getrag 245 bell housing. After taking a small amount of material off the leading edge of the timing lug, I was able to clear the first bump in the bell housing, but not the next bump. Not wanting to remove any additional material from the timing lug, I used a dremel to smooth out the bump. Thinking I was good, I reinstalled the trans to the motor, turned the motor over, and clunk, the lug was hitting the boss for the timing mark hole. It took me 2 tries to clear enough material from the timing mark hole boss to successfully spin the motor without interference. A side note... I was using the 323i Clutch Release Bearing (M10 228mm flywheel and Pressure Plate) for the Getrag 245 install, but the S14 flywheel and Pressure Plate combination is larger, so I ordered the shorter M3 Clutch Release Bearing. This significantly changed the transmission mating issues I was having before. During the multiple reinstalls with the M3 Clutch Release Bearing, the transmission would mate with a satisfying clunk. Hoping to install the subframe on Friday. Mark92131

I bought this one for my Son at the SoCal Vintage last year. It has been very reliable, but lots of little jobs to keep it maintained and an never ending wish list of mods my Son would like to add. Mark92131

Nope, maybe custom homage to Golf with a little Taiga thrown in? Mark92131

That looks awesome in your engine bay. It looks like you may have challenges fitting a radiator and the oil filter sits right where the steering box sits in the subframe. No room for the brake booster, so I assume you will go without. Looks like a super fun project. Start a Blog so we can follow along. Mark92131

Maybe here... Mark92131

PM Sent. Mark92131

I have one in San Diego, CA, double row timing chain. PM me if interested. Mark92131

This company provides wiring harnesses for early and late BMW 2002 models. Mark92131 BMW 2002 & 2002Tii Left Hand Drive Wiring Harness Set WWW.AUTOSPARKS.CO.UK

Didn't want to cut up my transmission tunnel to fit the Getrag 265, street build, so stock S14, using Alpha N with MAP overlay for injection management and bullet-proof EDIS-4 ignition (no modification to the Getrag 245 for sensors). Thank you for your feedback. Mark92131

That is the indexing dowel that helps mate the transmission to the block at 2 of the bolt holes. The nick is in the middle of the photo. It was less than a 1/4 gram of material to clear, just rounded and cleaned up the hard edge of the timing finger. The flywheel was lightened to just over 11 Lbs. If you elect to remove the index pin on the JBR flywheel, do you need to rebalance it? Although it looks like both clutch release bearings will work, I'll probably order the M3 version. It's just more time and money. The flywheel balance should OK (within a 1/4 of a gram), given the small amount of material removed. Thanks, Mark92131

So I have verified that the interference point using the S14 flywheel with the Getrag 245 with no sensors added to the bell housing is indeed the EFI trigger stub (I only have one) that sticks out of the flywheel. There was a mark on the stub that corresponded with the mark on the bell housing at TDC position. For a number of reasons I would like to stay with the M3 flywheel and pressure plate. 1. I paid up to have it lightened by IE and waited 3 months for it to come back. 2. I paid up for a brand new M3 Sachs Pressure Plate 3. I don't have any plans for using the M3 Motronic ECU So with the S14 flywheel and M3 Pressure Plate, @jimk is recommending using the S14 Clutch Release Bearing (21512226729) H=25mm rather than the E21 BMW 323i H-30mm for the Getrag 245 instead of the Getrag 265? @Ian appears to be using the E21 BMW 323i Clutch Release Bearing with his S14 flywheel and pressure plate. Are both correct? Surely there must be some differences between the Getrag 245 and 265 relating to the position of the clutch release fork lever for both transmissions, unless they are exactly the same and the M3 flywheel is 5mm thicker than the 2002 228mm flywheel. Rather than grind away on all the raised bosses on my Getrag 245 Bell Housing, I just notched the rear edge of the EFI trigger stub on the flywheel because I'm not using the Motronic sensors. Thanks for your help. Mark92131

You could start with the Blue Book Tii curves and go from there. Mark92131

MicroSquirt Ford EDIS-4 for this build. Mark92131

OK, I thought I had the Getrag 245 mating correct on the S14 block, but needed to pull the Getrag transmission the last 1/2 inch with the bolts to get it to seat. Well something wasn't right! I went to turn the engine over with a socket on the nut of the front pulley to line up TDC and clunk! Something was preventing the motor from turning clockwise past TDC. I remember cycling the motor to check the clearance on the crank scraper, but suspected that something in the bell housing was hitting something on the pressure plate. To confirm, the transmission needed to come off. So getting it off was a struggle. After removing the bolts, it didn't really want to come off. I ended up slowly and methodically prying it off until it finally gave up. Once off, I tried spinning the motor and all was good, so something isn't happy in the bell housing. The first thing I did was verify the correct clutch release bearing. Of course I had bought 2, one for the BMW E21 323i (21 51 1 204 525) 228mm Clutch, and one for a BMW E21 320i (21 51 2 226 729) for my spare motor with a 215mm Clutch. Of course the correct one for my S14 228mm flywheel was sitting on my desk and the wrong one was installed in the Getrag 245. So I pulled the wrong one off, cleaned up the clutch release bearing tower and splines and looked in the bell housing for signs that something was making contact. Here's what I found, a small nick on one of the raised portions inside the bell housing (see picture). I am using a new BMW M3 pressure plate and am wondering if I was suppose to use a BMW 2002 pressure plate for the 228mm flywheel to mate the Getrag 245 to the S14 block. I have the following questions... 1. Can anyone verify the use of a BMW M3 pressure plate with the Getrag 245 on the S14 block? 2. Would using the wrong clutch release bearing (shorter 320i 215mm version) cause the interference between the pressure plate and the bell housing I am experiencing? 3. Would you recommend some select trimming on the M3 pressure plate to clear the bell housing or vice versa? 4. If not 3, should I just buy a BMW 2002 228mm pressure plate? 5. What, if anything, should I use on the clutch release bearing tower to prevent rust and smooth operation? Thanks in advance for your input. Mark92131

How about Condor Speed Shop for your rear subframe mounts? Mark92131 2002 Subframe Mount - UHMW WWW.CONDORSPEEDSHOP.COM 2002 Solid Subframe Mount Set - UHMW with Aluminum Sleeve for your "E10 Series" BMW. 1600-2: 1966–1971 2002: 1968–1976 1602, 1802: 1971–1975 1502: 1975–1977 UHMW is an excellent general-purpose plastic with a unique combination of wear and corrosion resistance, low friction...

I bought some here. Mark92131 Oil Pump Shim – M10/S14 – Ireland Engineering | Racing & Performance Parts for BMW & MINI WWW.IEMOTORSPORT.COM Each

Not available at Wallothnesch, but maybe Poland. Mark92131 54311801935 Uszczelka dolna - 54311801935 - Części oryginalne BMW Łódź | Sklep internetowy BMW SKLEP.AUTO-VOLL.PL Producent: BMW. 54311801935

I don't have your relay connectors, but just wanted to say that your engine bay is truly a work of art. Well done Sir! Mark92131

RealOEM indicates 61311355286 or 61311352636 for 1971 production USA 1602 Wiper/Signal Indicator switch. Mark92131 403 Forbidden WWW.TURNERMOTORSPORT.COM

Plug in the firewall passenger footwell for AC hose(s)? I have one on my BMW 1600 that is sealed up. Mark92131

The trans was sagging slightly when I stopped to take the picture. During the pushing and wiggling, I was supporting the back of the trans to square it to the block. I still would not fully seat. I used the tool to center the clutch disk and the pilot bearing was fully seated in the rear of the crank which may have made the install more difficult. The trans has been in my parts stash for years and the input shaft had a bit of surface rust/corrosion that I tried cleaning up before the install. I coated the input shaft with a thin coat of grease, but didn't coat the pilot bearing or clutch disk. I thought about pulling it and starting over, but I tried pulling it in with the top and bottom bolts first. It didn't take a lot of effort, but it closed the gap pretty easily and clunked in to place while turning one of the bottom bolts. I suspect that my marginal cleaning of the input shaft and not lubing the deep seated pilot bearing was causing the hanging up problem. Thank you for your comments and suggestions. Mark92131