Jump to content

MBar

Solex
  • Posts

    69
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern California
  • Interests
    Classic cars, not necessarily popular or common ones... Music, learning, people

Recent Profile Visitors

1,111 profile views

MBar's Achievements

Enthusiast

Enthusiast (6/14)

  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter
  • Reacting Well
  • Week One Done

Recent Badges

20

Reputation

  1. I do prefer the OEM but I also have a time constraint. It's not really about the money. I appreciate the responses. Sounds like I really don't wanna tempt fate and I'll probably just have to wait for the OEM.. Out of curiosity, does anyone have direct experience with a leaky window seal properly installed?
  2. I have a 76 2002.. at the paint shop...I've been told that the after-market seals (about 65 bucks) will leak on later cars so I'm heading towards the OEM (189 bucks!). But it's a couple or three weeks to get one... Is it true that I'll have leaks if I go with after-market? Is there a brand that's better than others? All help is appreciated
  3. I found this very helpful as I am putting my doors back together... Thank you
  4. I just refreshed my doors (grommets and regulators, cleaning and lube). For the plastic that goes before the door card, I bought some 4 mil plastic sheeting at Homie Deport. The guy there said that he uses Mortite as adhesive: https://www.amazon.com/Thermwell-Mortite-Weatherstrip-Caulking-Cord/dp/B0189BTRDW/ref=asc_df_B0189BTRDW/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242000691778&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3688201010328591397&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031548&hvtargid=pla-491484768221&psc=1 So the plan is to use this because it doesn't dry and is easily removed. Is this a good idea? If not, what should I do? Thanks
  5. Just finished re-assembly and the car runs decent (considering I haven't rebuilt the Solex). Wouldn't idle at first but I removed the mixture screws and cleaned the gunk and shot carb cleaner in the ports and then it seemed OK. Now, it smells both in the cabin and all around the car. As usual, I am in learning mode. My guess is that it is running rich. Would that cause the terrible smell? I adjusted the screws per the instructions in the thread where I got the pic (thanks for that, it was very helpful) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/260208-solex-2bbl-post-rebuild-setup/?tab=comments#comment-1405270 I see only 3 adjustments. I turned the idle mixture in until it wanted to die then turned it back out too idle ok. Then I tried the Idle air control but that had no effect in or out. Then I adjusted the idle speed. Now the car seems to stay smooth at traffic lights. Are there any other adjustments? Still smelly. I have read a few threads about fumes. There are quite a few regarding fuel fumes but I don't think that's my trouble. Pretty sure it is exhaust.. I tightened everything down pretty good when I reconnected the exhaust (new gaskets of course). This is a 1976 and I have all of the emissions stuff connected except for the round canister by the brake master cylinder. I see that it takes two vacuum lines, one of those goes into the left inner fender and I can't tell where the other goes. I don't see it on the emissions diagram sticker. Next time I get a chance to work on the car, I might just try plugging the vacuums and try to isolate away the smog stuff. Can someone tell me where those vacuums go? Also, I see that the hood seals could be an issue. I do have the side seals. The right side is still on but the left came off and I haven't put it back on. They are in poor shape, dried out and brittle. I see they are available for about 70 bucks the pair. I am considering spraying them down with A: undercoating or B: PlastiDip in order to get them firmed up at least enough to see if they help (i would then order the seals if they don't hold up after my "restoration" (lol). I did order a rebuild kit (part number 15646A) and even procured a used Solex and also a Weber (Thanks ScottA) but frankly, I was intimidated when I tried to do the rebuild on mine and that's when I tried just cleaning out the idle ports which got the car running better so I decided not to risk a rebuild. A local carb shop quoted me 250.00 for the rebuild but couldn't guarantee if there are bad parts they can't locate. That is about 50 bucks away from a new Weber from Ireland Engineering. I don't really have that budget unless it will really solve my problems (smelly, sometimes rough idle)...or I can attempt a rebuild on the weber. uuuugh....
  6. ๐ŸŽผ๐ŸŽต๐ŸŽถ๐ŸŽธ๐ŸŽน Don't break my part, my achy brakey part My door seems to make a clunky sound Cause if you break my part, my achy brakey part I'll search until another one is found ๐ŸŽถ Don't Break my part, my achy brakey part I just Don't think I understand Cause if you break my Part, My achy brakey part The forum will get me out of this jam ๐ŸŽต Don't break my part, my achey brakey part I just can't stand it any more Cause if you break my part, my achy brakey part I'll also have to fix the other door ๐ŸŽถ Don't break my part, my achey brakey part My doors no longer swing so very far Cause if you break my part, my achy brakey part I'm so happy just a'workin' on my car ๐ŸŽต ๐Ÿ˜œ
  7. MBar

    MBar

  8. Replacing my regulators with good used units and I have cleaned them up. What should I use to grease/lube them before install? Also, I really don't want to make more work for myself. I did get the little grommets for the linkages so the rattle should be gone. As far as the rails and other stuff in there, I did spray a more-than-generous amount of PB Blaster on everything I could reach and it has soaked for a week now. That freed up my right side window but I'm still going to take the regulator out and clean it. My driver side was broken. Is it worth the effort to dismantle everything like the rails to clean it up? I'm afraid that will lead to a frustrating experience getting everything adjusted after that...I'm in California and there is not a lot of rust in there. Just old, tacky grease.
  9. Gentlemen: thank you for ALL of your replies..ok, it's a door brake and I will set about finding a replacement. I did get a chuckle from some of the your replies. I wanted a title that would provoke curiosity and it seems I did ok. Once again, the forum has proven a valuable source of knowledge and an oasis for an occasional smile. Thank you all ๐Ÿ˜
  10. Yes... The epoxy solved my problem removing the center kidney grill. The nut just spun because the fastener had broken loose...just took a dab of the magic clay on the backside plus the patience to wait a day. I didn't know if it would withstand the torque because I didn't have room to clean the surface but it held. Lucky. And blessed to be living in a time when these things are available โ˜บ๏ธ
  11. I couldn't reinstall my front side marker lenses. There is a screw at the front but the rear is held in by a small tab at the rear of the lens that fits in a slot on the base. Seems that tab was either worn down or something. I pulled the other side and found the tab was a little better but then I couldn't get it to stay either... So........ Out came the epoxy and I did my best to add a little meat. I was careful to not add too much material and I used a flat blade screwdriver to sculpt it the best I could. Left it to settle overnight and...yup, it worked! Yay ๐Ÿ˜
  12. I was removing my driver side window regulator and this fell out of the door... anybody know what it is and whether I should worry about it? Thank you
  13. I am just so grateful to everyone who gives advice and support. I would never have gotten this far with my car if not for this forum. And while I am at it, somebody suggested BluntTech for parts so I have gone to them more than once and Dave is outstanding. Same with Jeff at Ireland Engineering and Ben over at 2002AD... I'm in SoCal but I know there are plenty more all over the place....so if you have had a good experience, give them some props. (Please, no negatives here)๐Ÿ˜
ร—
ร—
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.
With your permission we and our partners may use precise geolocation data and identification through device scanning. You may click to consent to our and our partnersโ€™ processing as described above. Alternatively you may access more detailed information and change your preferences before consenting or to refuse consenting. Please note that some processing of your personal data may not require your consent, but you have a right to object to such processing. Your preferences will apply to this website only. You can change your preferences at any time by returning to this site or visit our privacy policy.