Jump to content

MBar

Solex
  • Content Count

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    N/A

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

360 profile views
  1. I am getting ready to re-install the engine and going over the parts I removed. I believe this is emissions related. Sure looks like asbestos around the hose....gulp... Anyone know?
  2. Thank You Steve... I am lagging so much on getting this puppy out of the garage that I need to keep moving... I think I'm going to just leave it all in for now. I really avoid any car 1976 and later due to the smog issue. Got a super deal on this one so I had to bite but.....sheesh. And whether or not the components work is another story. So, I looked at realoem.com and cannot find the part there. I don't recall pulling it off the engine bay but it has been a while... Is there a bracket that belongs there to fasten it?
  3. I live in California and I'm gonna try to smog it. otherwise I still want to be able to pass a visual. Do you know how this affects the smog requirements? What are the other bits? It looks to me (novice) that all the parts are there.. which ones are the magnetic valves? Thank you for the response :)
  4. Gosh it's been so long since I took the engine out... I am slowly getting it together and I am looking at this box.. I believe it has something to do with the speedo. I don't remember unbolting it from anything but it is basically hanging there. It has two holes which seem to line up with holes on the side of the engine bay but it is turned 90 degrees. When I turn it and try to line it up with the holes, it doesn't seem right as the lower cable doesn't clear the frame rail nicely. Doesn't look as though it would hurt to leave it hanging but I would like to know how it is supposed to be mounted. Thank you in advance
  5. I have the motor back from the machine shop. While the engine was gone I cleaned up the compartment. I did remove the brake booster/master combo. My car has an automatic. Question: Is it easier to install the engine without the manifolds, accessories etc...? I have not installed the distributor or housing either. I was going to re-install the brake components but not sure if it will make it easier or if it's going to be a pita to re-install the booster and bracket when the engine is in... I did not drop the suspension so I'm going to drop from above. Also, should I forego the fan for an electric unit? what about the shroud? Any other advice? Thank you in advance
  6. Thanks Buckeye... I called O'Reilly and at first they said yes then not available even though it's on their books....
  7. Thanks Steve. I am in California.... uuugh.. I will post in the want-ads too...
  8. bought the car with blown head gasket.. decided to have engine rebuilt... not sure if there was a belt on it but now I see the smog pump (air pump) does not turn. Local auto parts can't get it. Rock Auto looks like I can send it in and they rebuild it. Any ideas? is this something I can do? What's the best option? All the smog stuff is on the car and I am hoping to pass smog. Thanks in advance
  9. How tough are the bushings to replace? is it way easier now or ok after I assemble the car? I believe I will need window regulators so I am balancing...
  10. I am working on a 1976 2002 with automatic. Had the motor rebuilt and cleaned up the engine compartment. Still working on it but I am troubled by the way the sway bar looks crooked from above. That is, if I look straight down, the driver side is a bit closer to the body along the front. If I straighten the tires, the passenger tire is a bit to the right but I assume that is simply the toe-in. I took measurements from the center of each wheel directly up to the fender and the driver side appears to be about 3/8 inch lower. I measured from a point on the fender to the wheel and the driver side is about 1/4 inch closer. I've only driven the car a couple of miles to get it home. Bought it with two bad cylinders so I didn't pay attention to how the car tracked but the tires look really good and evenly worn. When I bought it, I saw that the "towhook" (loop?) on the driver side had taken a pretty good hit (or maybe a tug). As I look at things they seem straight but my concern is that the sway bar and other clues indicate some suspension damage or worse, structural issues. I am still prepping for engine installation but figure if there is something to correct, it's probably better while I can get to the sub-frame or have to remove it. I am planning on dropping the engine in from above because the auto trans is still in the car. Hoping I don't suffer making the connection to the torque converter... What do you guys think? I know that the geometry is not in "normal mode" because the engine is out and the car will settle. Is it me or does the motor weigh more on the passenger side because it is titled to that side and therefor the suspension springs higher when the engine is out? (ok that could be a really silly idea too but I do wonder) ALSO I have freed the harness to cleanup the engine bay and I am planning on re-taping.it. I got silicone self-sealing tape. Is that good? Should I cut out the old tape even in spots where it is ok?
  11. Hello...it's been a few weeks... I should be getting my motor back in a few days so I am gathering as much as I can before things become less available. I went to Mesa Hose and they did a nice job on new hoses using my old fittings and at a decent price. I placed an order from The Oring Store but they just let me know there is no stock on 2.2x18... do you have any other sources or perhaps some spares of your own you might part with? Thanks 😃
  12. Is there a SEPARATE tiny seal other than the ORing?
  13. I called around here in Orange County.. I'm gonna try Mesa Hose tomorrow but nobody else is willing around here.. I see you are SoCal..where did you have yours done?
  14. Thanks! I live in Orange County... do I need to order them from The ORing Store or is there a more local source?
  15. I have the motor out. Odometer shows 110,0000 miles. I haven't driven this car other than home on 2 cylinders.. seemed to shift ok and I heard these are pretty tough units. Terrible leak at the hose crimps. I am hoping to cut these off and get new hose. Is it ok to use hose clamps? I haven't cut off the old hose from the ends so I don't know if they are barbed or how much pressure they are supposed to handle. Does anyone know what is the best hose and methods? Also, I want to service the transmission. I looked for the filter and it seems there is no replace-able filter. Instead it is a mesh that can be cleaned...is this correct? I also want to replace the O-rings at the dipstick and speedo but need help with sizing. Anybody know what size or a good source? I cleaned the area of oil so I could see if any other leaks beside the hoses and it looks to be good. I will be changing the pan gasket. Are there any other things to do while I have the car apart this far? I think I will be removing the trans and dropping the subframe if it its theeasiest way to re-install the engine...any thoughts? I have another thread open on the engine/trans thing. ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.