visionaut

Yeah, I hear that. Just been there, done that. Big $$$$ (on parts alone) for my recent total engine rebuild. I think Irelands's stuff is top-quality (as was their parts advice) -- as the saying goes 'you get what you pay for'. It all sure hurt my wallet, but in hindsight, I'd have to say it was worth it -- I'm a very satisfied, happy camper with my refresh/upgrades - and I'm now good to GO for many more years.

So, based upon the cool Bosch sparkplug 'secret decoder ring' chart, and the choice of plugs listed by the original poster - the W8DCO's would be the best choice to 'equiv' W8DCs? Yes? (They have no resistor, and their only diff being "O" suffix, whch indicates a 'deviation from basic version' - meaning exactly what?)

Thanks. Yeah, no rubbing during normal or auto-x use. Fronts have no issues lock-to-lock even tossing the car around fervently. Rears have only had an issue once when I was carrying a very heavy load in trunk and back seat, due to greatly increased camber - when I hit a big bump/pothole I was able to cause a rub of inner tire wall on shock - so I don't do that anymore. My suspension is modded - car is lowered 1.5-2". I've got Eibach Pro-kit springs, Bilstein Sport shocks rear & HDs up front, adjustable Suspension Technique bars, flipped subframe bushings w/urethane inserts and Urethane suspension components throughout...

Paul Cain sells an E-Brake kit to fix the sloppy side-to-side wear that sets in after many years or service/use. $33 includes shipping.

I'm curious as to the answer to Tiger75's question regarding the use/mix of "parts 3 & 4" to vary the LSD lock-up too. How's that work? Is it as simple as combos of those parts and not more extensive mods?

My 2002...

Wow - didn't know that, that's cool. Maybe just on squaries?

I'm running a Samco Sport silicone performance coolant hose kit (4 piece) in my 2002. Costs $132 from Sporthoses.com. But I don't think it includes the right water pump hose for a 2002tii (diff pump) - the kits fits 'regular' 02s from 66-76. The hoses are hi-temp/hi-pressure, used in racing and come in trick colors (the purists shudder) as well as black. For a custom installation, you can also get individual hoses ala-carte from their 'race parts'. (like maybe a different hose for the tii water pump...). My 02 cents

Yeah, they 'just' install from the outside - if your doors had mirrors already on the right and left, and your existing 'door inside' hardware is good. Since most 02s don't have a right door mirror, that install typically does require inside the door access and drilling...

FWIW, I'm running 16x7.5 ET20s with 205R40-16s on my '76 2002 without flares (just rolled fenders). No spacers. ...and it's not "pimp" looking, IMHO.

Bavauto used to sell both left and rights - with all mounting hardware for about $112...

True that on the compression ratio and cam overlap. I think the advice for a 292 is 9-9.5:1 to 10:1 (and not much higher if planning to use plain pump high-octane gas). Also concur on the need to look at it as a 'balanced/integrated system' - that's what I was trying to indicate in my responses. My recall is the 292 doesn't start to 'kick in' until 3000-3200rpms or so, and more so after 3500-3700. If you rev to 6K, then it's all a rush of enjoyment after 4K ;-) Re: low end 'grunt' - off throttle it's probably not as good as with a milder cam, so you might have to put your foot into it more, or shift at higher revs, staying longer in each gear... You won't want to drive at rpms lower than 2500 in any gear.

Yeah - I wish I was into 02's back in the day too. See attached pic - 1970 Alpina kit parts 'menu'...

I noticed that too - didn't bother to point it out. The answer is 'effective intake length' - more is better for bottom end. (The distance between head inlet and very end of enclosed intake at opposite end of carbs). That's why longer stacks and a longer length intake manifold improve lower RPM performance, given the same motor with a short manifold and stubby or no stacks at all. On my motor, I run the longer Warneford intake manifold, and I also run a pair of 'now-unobtanium' 90-degree Weber airhorn adapters to give me a very long effective air intake length to better balance out my 304 cam. Pic of my set-up attached (sorry to modem users for image size...)

If you're not changing the bottom end, your displacement will still be more like 2.0 (stock 2002 was 1990 ccs). So unless you're swapping the whole motor, or putting in the crank and arms from the 1.8 ltr, you can still be a 2.0 ltr 2002... So its likely your tattoo would still be right! ;-) (I have no idea if the 1.8 head works with everything else in your motor, BTW.) I know shipping costs are unreal, but you can likely source an E12 head from the states for WAY less than you're getting quoted down under. HTH

Yep - Alpina offered a 'build to order' selection of parts buyers could include in their 2002. They also offered 'standard models' with a package of interrelated parts which buyers could also add to from the 'ala carte' menu. The flares were not required or always included. The coolest thing is that Alpina-modded 2002 were still backed by the BMW warranty.

Hi James. I ran my 2002 with the Schrick 292 cam and dual 40 DCOEs for 5-6 years. With the 292 it had a slightly lumpy idle (no lumpyness above 1K though) - surely nothing that rocked the car, or made you think it was going to stall out though. Even when I kicked in my Behr AC (which roughened idle more), it was OK. With dual sidedrafts you need to run at least a 292 or hotter cam to take advantage of their abilities. The 292 Schrick cam is considered the best 'hot street' cam with that class of carburation due to it's nice compromise of low end and hi-end characteristics. It does hit it's power peak (much greater than stock) after 4000 rpms though, so if you never go there, it might be a poor choice. Note that Alpina made the only 'OEM' 2002 with dual Webers and they used a 300 deg Motorsport cam in their combo. (I ran this 300 cam before I went to the 292.) I regularly got 21-24 miles per gallon with a 50-50 mix of street and highway daily driving on 91 octane pump gas. (210-230 miles/fill-up). I don't drive with a completely lead foot, but I get on the gas and rpms a good amount (it's too fun not to on the mountain roads I use everyday to/from work). FYI, I have the 5-speed OD in my car with a 3.91 diff - as they factor into mileage as well. I'm also running with 9.5:1 Mahle 'piano top' pistons and 4:2:1 headers into a custom BB TriFlo exhaust system. Two of the biggest issues to take into account with this set-up are carb tuning and ignition. Most folks that diss on dual-Webers likely never had them set-up right - running way too large main venturis and the wrong mix of jets and such. These are performance carbs, that have infinite adjustability/scalability to work from small 4 cylinders to big block V8s, but V8 settings on a 4 cylinder will be all screwed up. I can vouch for the fact that they suck if the owner/mechanic doesn't know how to tune 'em - but if you set 'em up right they're extremely reliable (and satisfying). As I said, my 02 is a DD, and I wouldn't have to do anything with the carbs for more than a year at a time, running in sub-zero (w/ no choke) through hi-90 deg weather. On the ignition, I use a MSD ignition & coil through a Tii mech distributor with PerTronix. Again very reliable, and it makes sure I burn the fuel well at both low and high rpms. Outside of not having the carbs set-up well, not having a solid/superior ignition is the other main issue that can cause disappointments. I'm not telling you what to buy - I don't know anything about how you drive and the rest of the mods you have or are considering making to your 02 - but it's tiring to hear laments that dual-sidedrafts don't work (or don't work well, or that they're tempermental, or don't get good mileage, yada-yada...). Or that only mild cams are OK for daily drivers or street cars or that hotter cams kill low-end driveability... The stout M10 is one motor that takes very well to these types of performance enhancements without suffering any reliability or significant disadvantage issues. (Maybe talk to Jeff or Jeremy at IE for some specific tips/advice on your planned set-up, they know their stuff.) BTW, I've recently gone to the 304 Schrick in my motor, while still running the dual 40 DCOEs (but now retuned with larger chokes). I can say it's got an even lumpier idle and is much more top-end oriented than the 292 - but I'm still getting 20 mpg in this DD. (I also did an alum flywheel, clutch and Z3 shifter mod as part of my rebuild). Not to quote commercials or anything, but "I'm lovin' it". ;-) HTH, Tom (aka visionaut)

2002s are the original Ultimate DRIVING Machine (not garage machine, not show machine.) Drive 'em! Yeah, take good care of 'em - and try to avoid rain/snow/mud/etc. when you can. I assume folks restore them to ensure they'll last longer, and be a better car mechanically and cosmetically - so they can be used and enjoyed. Not to be statues, heirlooms, or just compliment-seekers or trophy-earners. Mine has a ton of money invested in it - to make it a better machine for me to enjoy and DRIVE. It's not a 'full-resto' but it's in very good shape, with a lot of personal mods/enhancements to suit my interests/pleasure. It's also my daily driver. I'll take another car to work when I can if it's snowing, or very nasty rain - but when I drive it, I end up getting caught in snow & rain sometimes anyway. Afterwards, I just try to clean it up, put more wax and such to protect it as best I can to keep it nice. I like a clean car, a aesthetically pleasing car, a mechanically sound and great handling, performance car, and a classic car - but one I can drive as much as possible! My 02 cents...

Turn signals are also effected by the switch on/in the steering column. A misalignment in there at the back of the steering wheel can make it 'not stay on' or 'not cancel'. (ask me how I know ;-)

cool Zach - thanks!

Some info that may be useful: 1976 2002 Rear Wheel Cylinder 15mm 1974 2002tii Rear Wheel Cylinder 17mm 1978 320i Rear Wheel Cylinder 19mm Re: your front brake bias, you might want to see if adjustment at the back-plate of the rear drums might be needed (adjuster can seize). If your rear Tii cylinders are shot (seized or leaking) a simple replacement may restore your proper bias. Stock Tii brakes front & rear really work quite well with good balance.

I'd be interested in what they come up with. I like analog (or analog-looking digital) gauges, but wouldn't mind mixing in some digital readouts/displays too. And brighter and more lit-up gauges would be nice to see - especially if it looked to fit in with the an updated/more modern rendition of the 02 and not something from Star Trek...

Awesome job - VERY well done. (I should really put a new one in mine which includes a sunroof - it's old/soiled and has a few rips in it, but I keep ignoring it. a) I don't look up all that much, and I don't think I have either the patience or $ to fix/repair or install a new one.)

Awesome pics of some French & Italian classics... thx. That trick little yellow number is craziness!

Cool. Thanks - good to know you guys are onto it and think you can stop/slow it. The board's been getting a lot more of it lately than even 2 months ago...