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visionaut

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Everything posted by visionaut

  1. visionaut
    Thanks, I'll try that other email addy. I'd expect they're good folks - just no replies at the posted email...
  2. visionaut
    I just went though this (picking pistons for a full motor rebuild). I personally trust what Jeff Ireland says (he really know's his stuff!) and stay lower than 10:1 compression (you'll need premium fuel). You can use a thicker head gasket to lower compression some (add more to offset anything you remove from the cylinder head deck height or off the top of the block), but with your stroker cranks you'll also want to be very careful about piston-valve clearance in your choice. (With that stroke, it's even possible the top of the piston travels past the head-block matting surface.) Jeff also advised not going over 90mm bore diam - and not just for those reasons (gaskets, etc,), but also because cylinder wall thickness starts to get more marginal above that. For hi-perf/race applications, and high heat/stresses that can cause problems. Larger diams obviously get you more displacement, and all else being equal that's better for torque, but the diff in displacement may only be 100ccs more... The larger bore diam may also drive not just more machining of the block, but also the head (see piston travel comment above). Also, with either bore, with the stroker crank, you'd likely NOT be looking at domed pistons, but flattops/notched ones. My 2cents. HTH...
  3. visionaut
    I've been trying to contact Michael Cahsel via the email address listed as Contact on his website for over a month. 4 emails so far, no responses. I want to buy stuff from him - guess he doesn't care (I'm in Denver, CO, and my emails are in english???). I was guessing he must have shut down or gone out of business, but left the website running... He's got some really nice rare stuff there. Has anyone else here had any success recently buying stuff from him/them?
  4. visionaut
    That's a Kerker muffler (not an exhaust cap) - it uses a set of mechanical baffles in a stack formation to create/manage exhaust free-flow vs. backpressure. Popular on motorcycles...
  5. visionaut
    I've got 911 Recaros in mine (w/electric tilt adjust). I think they fit/line up fine and have a great seating position (not high at all). I have a custom mounting rail along the trans-tunnel (aluminum L-rail), but it still uses the stock mount on the outsides - so I can use the original fore-aft adjusters. They do sit slightly outboard - about 1-inch seat center to steering wheel center, though when driving it's not noticeable at all (pic seems to show more, that's perspective working to exagerate it - I cropped this out of a larger pic centered on the car - see my avatar). BTW, I even had my rear seats reupholstered to match the pinhole leather center panels of the Recaros.
  6. visionaut
    OK - so I'm willing to spend $40 for a new replacement dome light assy for my 1976 2002 w/sunroof. My lens is brittle/yellowed, and the position switch is snapped in half. SO WHERE CAN I BUY IT? My searching on Google and at my favorite parts stores all come up empty. You folks all seem to know it costs $40-42, so you must know it's available somewhere... TIA Tom (aka visionaut)
  7. visionaut
    I've just recently installed a new JB Racing aluminum flywheel in my 76 (~160HP) which has the 320i 5-speed conversion. I'm using all 228mm parts. I went with this combo (based on good advice from IE) for the clutch kit: • A Sachs E30 M3 Pressure plate (this equates to the Sachs HD part in clamping force, for way less $, and retains stock-like clutch feel.) • A Sachs Tii clutch disk (this has less copper friction material than the Sachs HD unit, but with the M3 pressure plate will hold very well.) • A 323i Throw-out bearing (320i TO bearing is 215mm). Depending on your particulars, you can get nice clutch kit from IE for around $200-350...
  8. visionaut
    I'd be in on a group buy too -- if price is right.
  9. visionaut
    I've got a slightly different domelight problem. (My door switch works after I replaced parts). The slider on my domelight assy itself has broken (aged plastic). I've looked around and can't find a replacement domelight assembly (with the integrated slider switch) anywhere. I'd also like to put a new non-yellowed lens on it too while at it - can't find that either. Are these NLA? or if not, can someone tell me a few sources? Thx.
  10. visionaut
    So can you share the part #s with us? (I'd like a set of the Italian ones, but don't want to pay extortion prices.)
  11. visionaut
    Lash caps are common on reground cams with higher lift. Never heard of a 273 deg duration before - that places it between a stock 264 and the common 284.
  12. visionaut
    My 2cents... It might look good painted white to match the body. As is, in matte black rubber/plastic it doesn't look that good to me.
  13. visionaut
    Isn't that a law of physics or something? ;-) Hope it doesn't return - maybe all your disassembly and poking around somehow solved it. The other possibility I was thinking of was somthing loose/binding in one of the axle joints. if it returns, maybe check that ??
  14. visionaut
    One of your rear axle nuts may have come loose, allowing your stub axle to shimmy. ??? See if you have any play by pushing in-out on the wheels while it's jacked up. HTH
  15. visionaut
    I run an Ireland Engineering Tii strut bar in front, nothing in the rear (like Curt said, not really necessary, unless full-out racer or battery reloc also a part of it). Not mentioned yet - Walloth & Nesch also make/sell a few nice bars (front & rear) worth checking out.
  16. visionaut
    oz_tom -- thanks. and yes, the enclosures are custom 'glas fabbed, with MDF reinforcements, covered in carpet material (like stage monitors). Removable, yet they integrate pretty well into the footwell sidepanels, deliver good sound to the driver & front passenger, and don't take up 'too much' room. I also have Bostons mounted in my rear window panel, all speakers powered by an amp located under my drivers seat hooked to the head unit in the dash console (with an iPod connector in the glove). I still often drive sans-music, just to hear my 02's natural "music" , but can also crank up tunes as well (though wide open, it's a sonic mix!).
  17. visionaut
    Here's another custom enclosure idea - fabbed for location in the front footwells. (using component Boston speakers). Kinda hard to see from the pic - but you get the idea... No mods to the interior required.
  18. visionaut
    Steve, You're in luck - I think the graphic used for the 'in-work, new 2002 Registry' shows some of the dimensions you're looking for! (In fact, if you wanted any of the trim hole locations for other areas of the car, you'd be out of luck with this image.) It appears from this pic the measurements are metric, but should be good... Perhaps you can inquire where this graphic was pulled from to get more info. http://www.2002registry.com/register/index.htm
  19. visionaut
    Why is there a different valve clearance setting with this cam? I thought valve clearence was valve clearance - one setting regardless of which cam was involved? Can someone explain? And why would the clearance be larger than standard? (isn't that bad?) THX
  20. visionaut
    AFAIK, Mahle 'piano-top' 9.5:1 pistons are for the E12 head only. While not absolute, many consider a late casting E12 head to be the best - it has the larger intake valves already. (But it's not too tough to resize an 121 head to fit them too.) You might want to check out Mahle 8.5:1s, Max-sil or JE pistons. Basic street port/polish might be all you should consider (port matching - intake & exhaust to match gaskets, and intake manifold). It won't make a big difference, but better flow is a good thing. It might not be advisable to go to larger valves than E12 size. Without lots of other induction mods it mightl actually hurt vs help performance. HTH...
  21. visionaut
    I'm curious as to how you make out, and what you have to mod/fab for that cross-flow alum radiator (incl. make/model and source). Running at 6000-9000 feet with temps in the 90's with no humidity, and running my Behr AC on my modded motor redlines my engine temps too easily. (even with 71deg thermostat). I was thinking of going with Curt's Turbo radiator - he sells 3 core versions in stock width, slightly wider (drill 2 new holes) and turbo-width (drill 4 holes an increase opening some) as my "max cooling" option. It'll look pretty stock, and will fit existing hoses, and I know the quality is good - but, honestly it's pricey. (I know, you get what you pay for). It'd be a nice alternative to consider a lower-cost, max-cooling option, like some of these aftermarket cross-flows, even if it meant new/custom hoses. Thanks.
  22. visionaut
    Ireland now offers either a weld-in plate or a bolt-in windage tray. I agree it's not needed for 'normal driving' - but the question was where to get one, not if one is needed...
  23. visionaut
    Agree - camshaft installation is recommended to be prior to valvetrain installation. (Though there are tools/methods to support trying to do it with valvetrain in place.) Also agree with idea to replace rocker shafts when rebuilding as they typically wear, though I see no problems with retaining & reusing rocker arms provided they're inspected and show no wear...
  24. visionaut
    Most all 5-speed conversions I've seen are pretty indistinguishable from 'stock' 02 manual transmission installations. You end up using many of the stock 02 manual parts in the car's interior, so finish is good - it doesn't look like some patch-job or bizarre transplant. The flywheel/clutch kits/transmission you use are all BMW pieces. You lose no 'soul' (you just exchange 02 automatic for 02 manual...) Unless you're trying to go for the completely stock/restored to factory condition type car, I'd think most 02 purists wouldn't have issues with the very common/beneficial 5-speed conversion, or other 'in-family' 02 modifications (brake upgrades, Tii or turbo parts, etc.)... (just my 2cents. my 02 was an auto converted to a getrag 245/5 5-speed. others opinions may vary.)
  25. visionaut
    I'm not sure what you mean by 'bolted on'. Ireland Engineering makes a windage tray/baffle that fits in between your oil pan and the block, fitting around the crank that's quite nice, and helps prevent oil pump starvation in turns. But it 'bolts on' because it fits to the same bolts that the oil pan does...
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