visionaut

I run an Ireland Engineering Tii strut bar in front, nothing in the rear (like Curt said, not really necessary, unless full-out racer or battery reloc also a part of it). Not mentioned yet - Walloth & Nesch also make/sell a few nice bars (front & rear) worth checking out.

oz_tom -- thanks. and yes, the enclosures are custom 'glas fabbed, with MDF reinforcements, covered in carpet material (like stage monitors). Removable, yet they integrate pretty well into the footwell sidepanels, deliver good sound to the driver & front passenger, and don't take up 'too much' room. I also have Bostons mounted in my rear window panel, all speakers powered by an amp located under my drivers seat hooked to the head unit in the dash console (with an iPod connector in the glove). I still often drive sans-music, just to hear my 02's natural "music" , but can also crank up tunes as well (though wide open, it's a sonic mix!).

Here's another custom enclosure idea - fabbed for location in the front footwells. (using component Boston speakers). Kinda hard to see from the pic - but you get the idea... No mods to the interior required.

Steve, You're in luck - I think the graphic used for the 'in-work, new 2002 Registry' shows some of the dimensions you're looking for! (In fact, if you wanted any of the trim hole locations for other areas of the car, you'd be out of luck with this image.) It appears from this pic the measurements are metric, but should be good... Perhaps you can inquire where this graphic was pulled from to get more info. http://www.2002registry.com/register/index.htm

Why is there a different valve clearance setting with this cam? I thought valve clearence was valve clearance - one setting regardless of which cam was involved? Can someone explain? And why would the clearance be larger than standard? (isn't that bad?) THX

AFAIK, Mahle 'piano-top' 9.5:1 pistons are for the E12 head only. While not absolute, many consider a late casting E12 head to be the best - it has the larger intake valves already. (But it's not too tough to resize an 121 head to fit them too.) You might want to check out Mahle 8.5:1s, Max-sil or JE pistons. Basic street port/polish might be all you should consider (port matching - intake & exhaust to match gaskets, and intake manifold). It won't make a big difference, but better flow is a good thing. It might not be advisable to go to larger valves than E12 size. Without lots of other induction mods it mightl actually hurt vs help performance. HTH...

I'm curious as to how you make out, and what you have to mod/fab for that cross-flow alum radiator (incl. make/model and source). Running at 6000-9000 feet with temps in the 90's with no humidity, and running my Behr AC on my modded motor redlines my engine temps too easily. (even with 71deg thermostat). I was thinking of going with Curt's Turbo radiator - he sells 3 core versions in stock width, slightly wider (drill 2 new holes) and turbo-width (drill 4 holes an increase opening some) as my "max cooling" option. It'll look pretty stock, and will fit existing hoses, and I know the quality is good - but, honestly it's pricey. (I know, you get what you pay for). It'd be a nice alternative to consider a lower-cost, max-cooling option, like some of these aftermarket cross-flows, even if it meant new/custom hoses. Thanks.

Ireland now offers either a weld-in plate or a bolt-in windage tray. I agree it's not needed for 'normal driving' - but the question was where to get one, not if one is needed...

Agree - camshaft installation is recommended to be prior to valvetrain installation. (Though there are tools/methods to support trying to do it with valvetrain in place.) Also agree with idea to replace rocker shafts when rebuilding as they typically wear, though I see no problems with retaining & reusing rocker arms provided they're inspected and show no wear...

Most all 5-speed conversions I've seen are pretty indistinguishable from 'stock' 02 manual transmission installations. You end up using many of the stock 02 manual parts in the car's interior, so finish is good - it doesn't look like some patch-job or bizarre transplant. The flywheel/clutch kits/transmission you use are all BMW pieces. You lose no 'soul' (you just exchange 02 automatic for 02 manual...) Unless you're trying to go for the completely stock/restored to factory condition type car, I'd think most 02 purists wouldn't have issues with the very common/beneficial 5-speed conversion, or other 'in-family' 02 modifications (brake upgrades, Tii or turbo parts, etc.)... (just my 2cents. my 02 was an auto converted to a getrag 245/5 5-speed. others opinions may vary.)

I'm not sure what you mean by 'bolted on'. Ireland Engineering makes a windage tray/baffle that fits in between your oil pan and the block, fitting around the crank that's quite nice, and helps prevent oil pump starvation in turns. But it 'bolts on' because it fits to the same bolts that the oil pan does...

The drain plug sender is the only I've seen offered by VDO. It's a nice compact unit - replaces the OEM drain plug. Don't know much about the Oil Filter assembly option (I'm assuming there's a mod to install one to it, but there's no 'default' threaded location there for a sender I can see.

Is your used VDO Temp Gauge a water temp or oil temp gauge? (Sounds like you're trying to use it to measure coolant temp, so asuming its a coolant temp gauge). I've installed a set of VDO gauges in the center console of my 76 2002. (Lighted Oil Temp, Oil Pressure and Voltmeter gauges in 2 1/16th diam with spinlocks). I got an Oil Temp sender (mounts to the oil pan drain plug) and an Oil Pressure sender with adapter (replaces OEM sender and has connectors for the warning light wiring plus the gauge). I'm still using the stock built-in coolant temp gauge in the dash. My VDO gauge installation instructions called for most of the wiring to be 14-gauge, but for the wiring going to the factory warning lights it called for 16-gauge. Also it indicated that the gauges measure ohm resistance created by the sender - thus the ohm range of the sender and gauge must match. Also it stated the positive power source must be switched and protected by a fuse. My gauges peg full left-hand when key is off. The test for the temp wiring is: key on & pull the sender wire off the sender, the gauge needle goes full left -- and key on & ground the sender wire to the block, the gauge needle goes full right. The recommended resistance readings on the Oil Temp sender for proper operation were: cold = 700ohms, hot (180degress) = 68ohms. I realize you're working with an OEM water temp sender, so I don't know what the hot and cold readings should be, but I'd expect them to vary with temp also. My guess is your problems are likely resistance match related - maybe based on the gauge of wiring you're using, maybe related to a ohm mismatch between your VDO guage and the OEM sender. Or utimately, just a bad sender (maybe why your OEM gauge was reading funny to start with.) HTH!

Well the 89.47 is the bore size, indicating they're oversized. Stock bore for the 2002 M10 is 89.0 (1990 cc). Most piano-tops are Mahle 9.5:1 compression, though some are 9.3:1. Not sure what the other numbers are... HTH,

Jeff Ireland and his team ROCK. Awesome 2002 parts, awesome service. 'Nuf said..

Ireland Engineering sells some nice ones (with both a long & short coil wire) specifically for the 02. In 8mm and 10mm (for MSD/Crane set-ups).

Had this info: Differences between the 2002tii and other 2002 models: 1972-1973 US 2002tii VINs begin with 276 1974 US 2002tii VINs begin with 278 Kugelfischer mechanical fuel injection alternator mounted down low, under battery (diff battery tray) oil return line in block for injection pump, feed line in oil filter head larger 7in diam brake booster larger 23mm diam master cylinder larger 10.08in (256 mm) diam front brakes larger 4-piston calipers/pads larger front hubs and spindles/struts larger rear drum cylinders (17mm) boxed rear semi-trailing arms interior clock 2002tii emblem on rear body panel

I've got a swapped in tii master cylinder (23mm vs 20mm diam) and the tii booster (7" vs 6" diam) combo. I think it's best done together to match up the changes. Running with tii struts/hubs & 4-piston calipers & 10" 320i vented rotors up front, and the 320i drums (250mm drums/19mm cylinders) in rear. This brake set-up, AFAIK, is the best it can be using 2002 parts - additional upgrades (disc rears, dual calipers, aftermarket parts) etc. are the only further enhancement options. I'm very happy with this 'top-end' 2002 braking set-up. For non-full time racing, maybe it just needs different pads/shoes - or the further options investments.

Yep, that's the right range. Very high, but that's what it requires per the manuals. (And I've talked with a couple of 02 owners who had nut/flange problems caused by not tightening it enough).

I've got my MSD unit (Model 6A, with MSD Blaster 2 coil and MSD tach adapter) mounted in the engine bay, on the right inner fender panel. Been there for years - I've no issues with heat or moisture. I'm also using a Pertronix in a tii mech distributor. Altogether the combo is great.

I'm also running the Carter 4070 without a fuel pressure regulator. Mine is 4psi but also high volume (60 - 70 GPH) - good for these carbs. Mounted it lower than the gas tank on the rear suspension frame. I've a dual 40 DCOE combo and a warmed-over motor. Very happy with this set-up. FWIW - I got rid of a Holley electric with Holley regulator combo - which I had starvation problems with in hard cornering. When swapping, I looked into and tested a Facet pump with a different regulator - wasn't thrilled with the constant ticking sound, and it suffered from the same low volume problem as the Holley combo. I know others who run a high-pressure electric pump and regulator and have no issues - guess it's a combination issue with carb set-up, fuel lines, filters, etc.

I running a Momo Corse steering wheel on my '76. I have turn signal cancelling working. (hmmm? I guess it's possible depending on the install...) Like the look/fit of your Nardi, BTW...

Lower trim delete, roof and belt trim blackout (same color as car, BMW Cosmos Black), front marker shaved...

I'm running a lightweight alum flywheel in my 5-speed conversion. Did it like you're thinking - at the same time while it was apart. (I also did clutch.) It's like AlanM says - a little faster to rev/accelerate and shift vs. stock flywheel. My's a daily driver that's also driven for fun, and I've had no reliability problems (or idle issues). As for "is it worth it?" -- hard to tell. One person's speed/thrill/fun per dollar quotient is different than another. Me, I'm happy with it...

I got mine - Hi/Low 7" H4 Hella Halogens - from BavAuto. Kinda pricey ($54 each IIRC) but the improvement in lighting was worth it to me.