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Mike87

Solex
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About Mike87

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  1. I have one. PM me if you want photos. Mike
  2. Check the two aluminum parts that bolt to the hood. They also act as end stops for the torsion bars. Over time the aluminum wears where the torsion stop is and they can break. Good news is you can swap them side to side and have basically 'new' ends. I did this about three years ago for the same reason.
  3. There were two M10X1 and M12X1.5. Both were straight thread.
  4. Did not know that they have that weird kink. Not a good design. I guess sticking with a stock tii manifold might be better.
  5. You might look at the Ireland Engineering shorty header. Good alternative to a stock manifold and excellent flow. Also easy to fit (unlike some headers). IE Shorty
  6. I have one. I can take more photos if you like. No cam. I do have the rockers. Comes with the valve cover and front cover.
  7. I have a pair. Will these work for you?
  8. That is your oil pressure relief piston/spring from the oil pump.
  9. I just measured it (kind of hard to do on the car) but it is close to 7.25" (185mm) overall. Part number is 12311312137 E30 alternator mounting parts from RealOEM see part number 8. You will also need parts 9 and 10 to make it worth using.
  10. I used that bracket, but it was with the later E30 alternator. It MIGHT work with the original alternator. Maybe have to use some spacers one way or the other. Try it and let everyone know.
  11. Did the same thing with a 91*C temp switch that controls a relay which controls the fan. Also put a toggle switch inside on the console that is a bypass in case the temp switch fails.
  12. That is there to keep the new diaphragm from getting damaged during storage prior to installation. It now goes in your junk drawer for some hack later on.
  13. Electric tach and yes it would be a dash module pull to get to the bulb and/or the tach connection. The dash module is pretty easy to remove. Remove two knurled nuts and remove the speedo cable and out it comes. Once it is loose and accessible, unplug the module and you have access to the wiring and the module. Also check the black wire that is connected to the distributor (the tach feed wire).
  14. Your master cylinder is on its way out. I would look at that before a booster. When a booster fails it just takes a lot of pressure (from your foot) to make the car stop. A sinking pedal is a classic sign of the internal seals on the master failing.


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