visionaut

Check out these sites for some pics & info: http://www.touringcarracing.net/ http://www.lisa-racing.com/Gruppe_5_DRM/Galerie_DRM/DRM_Galerie_1/drm_galerie_1.html http://www.kolumbus.fi/janne.v.muotti/Schnitzer_photos.html Here's 2 great shots of a restored Rodenstock-livery Schnitzer 02 racer (which came in different variants of those colors). I love these cars! BTW, it's just Schnitzer, not AC Schnitzer which came later...

I think if the fliter is tall enough to provide good clearance past the top of the airhorn being used inside it, to not restrict or alter the airhorns airflow, they work well. (for units like the K&N with a 'hardtop'). This might not be such an issue with foam-top filters (like the ITGs or Pipercross style). Obviously the tallest filters would provide the ability to run the longest stacks (longer stacks aids midrange, shorter stacks aid top-end) - but too tall and you have your brake booster clearance problem. Here's a couple links that might be useful: http://piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm http://www.redlineweber.com/html/application_guide/air_filter_applications_by_carbu.htm http://www.knfilters.com/Racing/customcarb.htm http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PIP%20C1153 http://www.truechoice.com/prodinfo.asp?number=PIP%20W4030R I'm using a pair of the Alpina-knockoff 90deg airhorns with Lynx Ramflo airfilters with my dual sidedrafts nowadays. I used to run the 3.5" K&Ns with 30mm internal stacks, but booster clearance was tight.

There's a version of the taller K&N filter set-up that allows you to run straight airhorns (aka velocity stacks) inside them. I've everything from very short - just the horn radius - to approx 75mm versions run in set-ups like that. Another alternative is a 90-degree airhorn/airfilter adapter, which you can use to get a longer length and also fit various filters without brake booster interference. See attached pic for some samples of the latter - the 1st two being Alpina models (from their dual DCOE configs), and the latter another aftermarket model (NLA). Most of these are now un-obtanium tho'.

BC would seem to = AM (from the numbers on the dial, running from just under 6 to 16, though you most tend to see it as numbers like 540 to 1600). My other guess is the U and M are trying to indicate frequency range. (FM stations are numbers in MHz like 93.3). HTH...

My opinion - I like it, with the right body-color paint. Black on black looks best, IMHO. Like mine... ;-) Paint sticks fine, my beltline trim is matched to my body color (cosmos black) - it's just as smooth/shiny and no-peel as the body paint itself. It all depends on what you like - to me the matte aluminum 'old school' look is fine too, if it fits with the rest of the look of the car. I'd hardly say 'monochrome' is/was a fad look...

I've got the Italian signal lights that are clear upfront, amber in the rear sides. I first considered doing the mod I've seen mentioned on here related to drilling out the rivets and swapping the brackets, but at least for me, that didn't look like it would work. A) because I don't have anything to reinstall hollow-center rivets (the screws to attach the lens assy to the car goes through there) and I didn't want to try to go without rivets and have just the screws holding it together, but more significantly the bracket assemblies won't easily swap! - my '76 02 'bulged' signal assembly brackets and reflectors protrude past where the lens face is on the flat lights. So my conclusion is if anyone's done this bracket swap they did it between flat US and flat Euro/Italian set-ups, or they had to bend the US bracket and heavily modify the reflector to make it work. I considered the tap-a-lites, but one of the things I really wanted to do was run white running lights inside the clear lenses. (Silver-coated yellow bulbs for the turn signals, but white bulbs for running lights). The tap-a-lites only came in yellow bulbs. And I didn't want to always have to buy tap-a-lites for bulb replacements. So my solution was to do something similar to Earl's idea. The difference for me was the part I used for the 2nd bulb. I went with a wide-dispersion super-white LED light (in a nice chrome carrier), which I had to drill one hole in the bracket to fit. (I've been replacing most of the lights on my 02 with LEDs - brighter lights, less wattage, longer wear.) I ended up with a pretty nice clean assembly, and the white running lights gives my 02 a distinct look.

Thankful too for great driving days - like yesterday...

Bill, Looks like...

Thanks - I try to keep it looking nice, just like the outside. For a DD, that's not the easist thing... I got the Samco Sport hoses online from the US Distributor: Sporthoses.com It was a 4 hose set pre-made for 'standard' '66-'76 1502-2002s.

I'll keep a lookout for 'Otto' on the roads out here... (BTW, my sentiments of the FAQ are similar to yours, it's been a great source of info and a nice place to communicate with fellow 02 nuts, er, owners.)

Thanks. Those are Samco Sport silicone performance hoses. They come in black and several other colors. Yes, I'm sure I get an extra 1/2 HP per hose from the red hoses... ;-)

If you don't want to go chrome or polished steel/alum, try a gloss-black plastic M3 Motorsport oil cap. Looks different enough and a little more modern.

Well, that sounds good to me - thanks Clay. Looks like I'll buy a set to try 'em out (hope they come in a W7DC0 version too.).

HERE'S TO BUBBA!!! I lost my dad when I was 6 - it would have really cool to have a great guy like your dad around, sharing your passion for your 02. So very sorry to hear of your loss. Tom

Hi Harry, Very Nice. I also see you've got a copy of the 3.5 CSL I lust after in your collection - damn. Have you ever seen a 74-76 US 2002 model (with the extended alum bumpers)? I'd like to mod a model to look like my own ride, but every 02 model is see is either turbo or early/euro bumpered. Tom (aka visionaut)

Thanks for the tip re: turning on the fan (low setting) right away when it's REALLY cold. I finally replaced the fried blower motor in my 02 (while in there, got a new heater core too). I drove for 2 winters here without it - damn was I stupid. (My 02's my DD, except for snow). Fogged over windows were the norm, car only got to reasonably warm/tolerable right as I arrived at work or home. With no blower, even with heater set to on, you're just relying on purely radiative transfer :-) Now I get real heat and defrosting in ~5 minutes. And it can get actually toasty after awhile. Amazing... I'm still not thrilled by the by-today's-standards rather anemic circulation you get from the fan - but I find the refreshed stock set-up works well.

Not my experience - by a long shot. He/they were great and all was right...

That Lauda-driven 1602 is nice - but I really dig this Posey-Redman driven 3.5 CSL they're selling...

Yeah, I hear that. Just been there, done that. Big $$$$ (on parts alone) for my recent total engine rebuild. I think Irelands's stuff is top-quality (as was their parts advice) -- as the saying goes 'you get what you pay for'. It all sure hurt my wallet, but in hindsight, I'd have to say it was worth it -- I'm a very satisfied, happy camper with my refresh/upgrades - and I'm now good to GO for many more years.

So, based upon the cool Bosch sparkplug 'secret decoder ring' chart, and the choice of plugs listed by the original poster - the W8DCO's would be the best choice to 'equiv' W8DCs? Yes? (They have no resistor, and their only diff being "O" suffix, whch indicates a 'deviation from basic version' - meaning exactly what?)

Thanks. Yeah, no rubbing during normal or auto-x use. Fronts have no issues lock-to-lock even tossing the car around fervently. Rears have only had an issue once when I was carrying a very heavy load in trunk and back seat, due to greatly increased camber - when I hit a big bump/pothole I was able to cause a rub of inner tire wall on shock - so I don't do that anymore. My suspension is modded - car is lowered 1.5-2". I've got Eibach Pro-kit springs, Bilstein Sport shocks rear & HDs up front, adjustable Suspension Technique bars, flipped subframe bushings w/urethane inserts and Urethane suspension components throughout...

Paul Cain sells an E-Brake kit to fix the sloppy side-to-side wear that sets in after many years or service/use. $33 includes shipping.

I'm curious as to the answer to Tiger75's question regarding the use/mix of "parts 3 & 4" to vary the LSD lock-up too. How's that work? Is it as simple as combos of those parts and not more extensive mods?

My 2002...

Wow - didn't know that, that's cool. Maybe just on squaries?