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visionaut

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by visionaut

  1. Thanks for the corrections, Mike. It's great to know I won't have to go through emissions again - I thought I had to redo that every 4-5 years when I renewed my collector plates/registration. (Now that I have the 304 Schrick I'd expect it to be harder to pass than when I had the 292.) And I won't have to try and find the 'right guy/place' to get my emissions test done to hope they don't exactly notice the lack of air pump and all that emissions crap... Last time it took 2 retests to find the 'right guy' ;-) (My tailpipe tests were actually excellent - WAY under output requirements, but I had 'equipment' issues.) At the time they told me they were treating my 76 differently than if it was an older 02, since 76 was some cutoff date at the time and I fell into the 'more restricted/stricter' grouping where the emissions equipment was required. Tom
  2. The one Ireland Engineering sells IS the JB Racing one. Got one in my performance DD and just love it... Tom
  3. The new, updated style cocomats have a full backing to prevent the sand/fibers/liquids from falling through the mat onto your carpetting. Cool PLUS functional! Tom
  4. Hi Andy, For top-notch BMW 2002 (injected or carbed) service in the area I'd recommend Bimmer Haus in Broomfield. http://www.bimmerhaus.com Great folks with experience, racers, know their stuff - old and new. As for emissions - since your car is a 74, you may have an easier time than me with a 76. They test for exhaust output but also for equipment (though for cars older than a cut-off date just the former). 76 may be the cutoff date for the equipment part, I kinda forget - but I know equipment was a part of my test a few years back. I don't know if the law changed to a 'sliding scale' for older cars or it has a firm year-date for the equipment part of the test kicking in. If you register as a collector vehicle (special plates), you only need to deal with emissions every 4 years. There's no limits on miles driven with the collector plates, just an age requirement I beleive. There's quite a few 2002s/owners around here - looking forward to seeing you around. Tom ps: I know several on this forum, I'd expect them to chime in too.
  5. I agree with you that it doesn't work if your US signals are the late-style bulging type - as the metal housings (with plastic reflectors) of the late-style US budging lenses are too large and stick out too far to fit inside the flat euro lenses. I found out the hard way, after assuming I could try the housing-swap mod on my Italian lenses. The posts I read for that method to address the wiring diffs never made it clear it only worked if your US assemblies were the early style with metal reflectors... (Most folks doing the mod are trying to replace the bulging US lenses - so it's important to note whether you have early-style housings with metal reflectors, where the swap works, or late-style housings with plastic reflectors, where it doesn't.) See pic. Tom
  6. I've been using LED lights all over my 02 for quite a while - where ever I can find equivelent bulbs. Rear = stop, turn and reverse lights & license plate lights. Front = running & turn lights. Interior = ceiling & instrument lights. Brighter light, truer colors, less heat, no burnouts. But it's again not a 'purist' thing... :-o Tom
  7. The rear of the car is on a hinge connected to the ground (that's what the truss is connected to.) And it's being lifted by the wires connected to the front of the car. Will's not even touching it, let alone lifting it. Looking on the ground, it seems there's some additional rigging lying there too. I wonder what the scene is about, where there'd be a use for a "hinged car flipper"...?? Of course, with the magic of SFX, the hinge and wires could all end up being hidden in the final shot... hmmm. Interesting shot tho'.
  8. Charley - that looks so trick. Sweeet!!! Tom (obviously not a purist)
  9. I'm running dual 40s with a 304 Schrick in my DD. (with Tii dist, MSD6A/Blaster coil + PerTronix etc. to fire the mixture well.) I don't think it idles very rough - no shakin', just a bit of a rumble. In winter - it's harder to start if it's below freezing (no choke) but it usually works on 3rd try. Get your DCOEs tuned well - makes all the difference. Love the sound, power, responsiveness and high-RPM fun... Tom
  10. I average about 8500 - 9000 miles a year on my 76. Tom
  11. Michael - just wanted to post the detailed shots of my 'late mode block' dipstick mount. It definitely is NOT a rigid tube into the block - there looks to be a rubber fitting/insert of sorts down where it mounts in. I have no idea if you could remove your rigid line and replace it with a set-up like this. Maybe it's even possible to cut yours and add the rubber tube section and then insert your cut end into the other side of the rubber? That might give your the 'bend' without actually bending the tube itself. If you're more leaning to bend your's watch carefully for crimping - you may want to a) insert something into your dispstick line to fill it when you bend it, and/or use a line/tubing bender tool on it to aid bending it smoothly. I'm pretty sure the dipstick itself is flexible enough to go in/out of the line after you bend it if it's not crimped. Good luck, Tom
  12. Hi Michael, I have my oil dipstick routed/mounted as shown on my 76. I think it would clear even airfilters mounted directly to the sidedrafts. Tom
  13. Delia - FWIW, I think you can still get new hazard light switches at BavAuto... Tom
  14. The ceiling light assembly for late model sunroof 2002s. The rubber 'accordian' body connections for US big-bumpered 2002s. Euro chrome bumpers for late-model 2002s. Dashboards. Underdash trim panels. Functional 'green' button for center consoles. I'll think of some other stuff and post again later... Tom
  15. yeah, they'll fit. IMHO, it's a modern EURO performance look, they aid handling (along with suspension mods), and it's not a harsh ride... to each their own. Tom
  16. Yes, you can get Samco hoses for 2002s. They run ~$130/set if you don't find them on sale. Try sporthoses.com Tom
  17. You can also consider a remanufactured distributor - they can be found for like $100 with a core exchange. 2 examples (no affilation...just googled): http://www.autohausaz.com/search/product.aspx?sid=0edasy454c0f2n45hskztefx&makeid=800003@BMW&modelid=1010811@2002&year=1975&cid=Distributor@Distributor&gid=7108@Ignition%20Distributor http://www.1motormart.com/unified/buy.php?make_text=bmw&ml=2002--001&model_text=2002_series&year=1975&part_name=distributor&brand_name=a1_cardone&s=1&my=1 Tom
  18. You didn't say what kind of spark amp system you're running... Don't know if it helps, but here's a wiring diagram of how to wire a PerTronix with a MSD system. Here's a link to a FAQ thread on Coils/PerTronix that may also have some useful info: http://www.bmw2002faq.com/component/option,com_forum/Itemid,57/page,viewtopic/t,269556/highlight,/ HTH, Tom
  19. I like 'em. Different but clean. (The first ones, not the all-chrome ones). As other's have mentioned, you'd need right offset to fit right... Don't feel obliged to go with the same look everyone else has/likes... it's YOUR ride.
  20. Harry (and others), The Behr A/C Manual and Parts list docs posted on the TiiRegister are of the same docs as what I have. You guys can save me the emailing by going there and getting them... (And thnaks to Keith for posting them there!) Tom
  21. Don --- email sent. (Hope you don't have 56K!). Good Luck! Tom
  22. Hey, I think I can help you out. I've got a Behr AC in my '76, and I've collected info on it other 02ers have shared before. I've got a Behr A/C Wiring diagram (see attached). I've also got Behr A/C Installation instructions plus a Behr A/C Replacement Parts list - but due to the large file sizes (they're PDFs of 3.2 & 2.6MB each) I can't seem to post them here, so pass me an email address and I'll try to send 'em your way. Tom
  23. My sincerest regards, Nathan. It's quite evident from the pic you posted that your relationship with your Dad was a most special one. So much pride, joy, and friendship - best buds. Tom
  24. Hi Mike, Why do you think it's your distributor? Had any other issues lately that might cause you to think that's at fault? I wouldn't guess a dizzy shaft would wear out like that, or result in that kind of problem (and runs fine above 3K...) My own initial-hunches based upon the symptoms you've described are: Bad gas? Carb cleaning, or a clogged fuel filter or maybe jet? Fuel pump? (or something related to the recent high-temps we're having here? Like possibly vapor-lock?) I wouldn't come up with a dizzy-specific culprit until after checking out stuff like fuel first. Then I'd look at spark - coil, plugs condition, etc. It sounds like this missing came from out of nowhere, unrelated to anything you might have recently tweaked on your car, right? If it was something with the dizzy, maybe it's evident from looking at any cap-wear you might have or what the rotor looks like? (If you have a worn dist-shaft it seems you might see starnge wear on those parts.) Maybe you threw or have a worn advance spring issue? BTW, you don't have points any longer, right? otherwise that would be a good guess too... Sorry to not be of much direct help on your question - and that these ideas might be helpful to you solving your problem. Tom
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