visionaut

Maybe it's just me, but there seems to be a much larger number of posts lately from non-members. Each tends to have a 'funny' poster name/handle, and many of them don't seem to be on 2002-specific questions (more general, or polls and such.) Anyone else notice this. Curious as to the influx... I don't have a problem with it, just wondering why or what's behind it.

Sweet looking 3.0. I love those cars (fave is the CSL). The faults you've listed seem pretty minor to me - you can have 'em addressed in no time. Great addition. Tom

Hi Bill, I can't help with with identifying the cam by the marking you mentioned. But here's the info on Dr. Schrick camshafts offered for the BMW M10 engine (from there 2007 catalog). Hope it's of some use/help in helping you figure out what you have. Tom

...or a gravel mountain road...

Can you say "time machine"? waaaaaay cool.

I'm running a fiberglas Zender spoiler on my 1.5 -2.0" lowered 02. It's front edge sits approx. 5" above the ground. I never have any issues with driving the car, going up driveways, etc. I need to be careful of parking space curbs, but that's it. I'd find it hard to beleive that the turbo spoiler would properly mount to a 2" lowered car and not easily provide at least 3" of ground clearance. Tom

Yup, Curt. I meant replacement HAZARD switch... ;-)

One idea - see if you can twist/screw the button back in vs. just trying to push it in. If you can get it in, you may be able to wedge a pin in around it to hold in place to limp around. (This happened to me once, and this was my temp fix.) The real answer, sadly, it to buy a new replacement flasher - they're not too expensive and pretty straightforward to install.

That's not a original 2002tii Mech Advance Distributor... Per Bosch Automotive Tradition, that Part # shows up under a standard 2002 model application for just USA-destination vehicles produced in just Nov 1974, that were equipped with an Automatic Transmission. Can't tell if it originally had vac advance or not, or if your dist was recalibrated when it was fitted to the prior MM motor. HTH, Tom

I must be missing something here. I just use the "Add an Attachment" feature of this forum when I post replies to include pictures. That just uploads them to the FAQ server for storage. (That way I can count on them remaining forever, with no broken links, even in the archives, independent of any other website.) I also use website/server space my ISP gives me for my account to load pictures there, if I even want to include an "http to my picture(s)" kind of link or webpage. The URLs are simple, and I control the image sizes. Personally I don't use, and haven't ever found I've had to use 'picture library' websites, like Photobucket or Flicker... Maybe it's just me. I don't see what they offer I can't do myself/better. Tom

For carbed applications, I think the Carter 4070 pump is a good choice. (High volume, low pressure). It comes with brackets/isolators in the package. I have mine mounted kinda where MikeS said... (see pic). Tom

The tii booster is an upgrade some folks do. It also provides more engine bay clearence than the non-tii unit - desireable by folks running dual DCOEs.

Cool! Thanks, John. Always great to learn something new. I'm now running Fourth-oversized ones (90.00 nom diam). This is the set I pulled from my block in my recent rebuild. Tom

>> Here's pics of a 9.5:1 Mahle "Grand Piano" top piston for the 02. Twice oversized. The ID Info stamped into the top of the piston {top-to-bottom in pic}: 89.47 The piston diam, for a .050 oversize 218 - - | | | 0385 The unique piston set ID (4 will match). Made in Germany Sp0.045 ??? -------------- Marks cast into inside of piston skirt... One one side: + 89V13 A1 MAHLE One the other side: 44 (in a circle) 14 (in a circle) C 041 5 HTH, Tom

Steve, Is the handle diameter the same even for a normal 02 ebrake handle? (I.e. if I could persuade my old rubber handle off my ebrake level shaft, would an e36 handle slide right on and fit well in it's place?) Curious - Thx. Tom

Not quite "on" the snow... The '02 stays warm and cozy in the garage and the 'Zu gets all the action when it's icy/snowy here. (I've got a sand/salt/mag chloride/backwash aversion with the bimmer.)

Ha! My 02 regularly parks at the Deer Creek facility lot! (Not today, still too much snow melt/ice around here). Tom

I'm with ya. I'm starting to freak out at all the snow/ice here too. Here in Denver we've had 5 straight weekends with snow, including 2 big dumps just before and after Xmas, that are still on the ground. (The alleyway to my garage is now covered in 6-9" of permafrost ice - maybe I'll see blacktop again come May...) For those that don't know, Denver doesn't usually see much frequent snow, and our winters are generally kind of cool/arrid. (think high plains, not mountains). Yeah, we'll get a few big snows each winter, but they typically tend to melt off pretty quick. The rockies to the west typically get most all the snow - and lots of it, that's where all the ski resorts are - 1 -1.5 hours west. So the frequency and lasting nature of the snow/ice isn't normal. Needless to say, my 02 hasn't seen much use - just 2 times driving it in over a month (the 2 nice sunny days we've had in Jan when it got above 40s, though getting in/out of the alleyway on solid ice was interesting). My 02 is my DD - except for snow/ice. I really miss driving it. I've been stuck using my 4x4, with the bimmer tucked away in the garage. Just when it looks like the snow and ice are gone (from main roads), it snows again. Like today... Sheesh. Tom

I've got one on my 02... Tom

Pedro - yes a longer effective intake length ("the run", as you called it) improves low/mid range. I believe the reason racers that run a lot in the higher revs use longer intake lengths (attained by long stacks and longer-runner intake manifolds) is BALANCE, since lots of the other components on those motors are tuned for high revs (like cams, rockers, rods, etc.). And racing situations also often demand good low/midrange power too. Tweaking stack length, ignition timing, and carb settings are 'final stage' tuning mods that can be done on a given motor to vary it's output torque/powerband/responsiveness to get the desired characteristics for a given situation - like track, temp, altitude, etc. (Things like cranks, rods, pistons, heads, valves, cams are more "select 'em and forget 'em" - most folks don't typ. have options to vary those easily to tune performance for given/varying use situations.) This thinking/tweaking also works for performance street cars, where we're also looking for balance - low end responsiveness/torque, alongside high rpm power. I've played with effective intake length quite a bit with my car, as a means to dial-in these characteristics I'm looking for. Even on a street car, I can tell you the differences are very noticeable. On my current M10 set-up, with a hot cam (304 Schrick - not a full on race unit like a 316 or so) and other mods for more power at higher RPMs, increasing "the run" had almost no discernable adverse effects on my top-end, but really helped low/midrange. I'm now using a very long 'stack' set-up (actaully a 90-degree tuned port carb inlet, ala Alpina A3s had, going into my dual Webers, which mount to a long-length Warneford intake manifold.) The extra 2-3 inches of effective intake length provided a noticeable boost for my lowend/mid-range responsiveness. Tom (aka visionaut)

Longer pipes (aka stacks) increase effective intake length, which can improve mid-range. Also provides for smoother airflow into carb, esp. in stacks with full-radius mouths. Yes, long stacks may have issue with brake booster unless it's the tii booster.

I beleive that stub axle castellated nut takes a 36mm socket. And the torqueing required to reinstall them properly is huge, 217 lb/ft.

Just my unrequested opinion as well, but I'm with BLUNT. Light centers to show off that amazing metalwork detail.

Yep - both the budged US style and flat yellow ones I've seen/had were solid yellow plastic... :-(

Some carb inputs... I've been running dual DCOEs (40s) on my DD for more than 6 years. No issues, no finicky behavior - just excellent and reliable performance. Originally with 30mm chokes with a 292 Schrick, now more recently with 34mm chokes with a 304 Schrick. Once tuned/jetted properly (THIS IS THE KEY) they hold their tune very well, and are rock stable/predictable. A tune-up/servicing once a year is all I find that's needed. I'd also agree a single carb set-up would be simpler & easier to tune/maintain if your build/maintenance was a total DIY affair - you'd have no carb syncing to do, less issues with a solid linkage, etc. And you can definitely get some solid performance from carbs like the 38/38 - though at the extremes, IMHO, there's no other carb set-up that can touch the performance or scalability of a properly set up pair of Weber sidedrafts. It's very important to have a known condition/starting point for a set of Webers. (I think those that have issues with these carbs are suffering from issues in these areas). Matched parts, wear, rebuild state, starting points and conditions of jets/components and tuning, a good understanding of the DCOE design, and the tuning features to "fit" a given motor are all critical factors in a superior & satisfying experience. I'd also strongly advise employing an expert, at least for the initial baseline set-up of a set of DCOEs. My 'carbs guy' has all the jets/components and variations offered/sold in his "parts kit". So he can trial/test/tune using a large number of combos to dial the carb in for my motor, over the rpm range, with his pricey tools, etc. to get an ideal tuning. Then I don't have to buy/build that parts kit myself. (and if a tune ever results in swapping one jet/component for another, the net cost is minimal, especially if the part being removed is in good condition and can just go into his "kit" for reuse). From that point on, regular maintenance and minor tweaks can be DIY. HTH