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  1. The K-pump and the fuel injectors are now on it's way to California and Robert an the Fuel Injection Center. Based on the recommendations I fell like if anyone can get it up and running he can In the meantime, believing that it will run again sooner rather than later, it will also need to stop. I got the rear brakes apart, new cylinders, shoes and drums and I freed up the adjusters. As straight forward as drum brakes go once you figure the right configuration of tools and cursing to get the springs on. Only had to put a little heat on one of the adjusters. A few attempts to order both left and right rebuilt calipers failed, though the e-bay sellers wanted to believe they could provide them and quickly charged by card, but in the end could not, refunds provided, no harm no foul. So I decided to go the rebuild yourself route following the good notes in the FAQ. The bolts and seals are in the mail, in the meantime I have one caliper apart, pistons out and mostly cleaned up. The important areas of the bores and pistons look pretty good, I think they will go back together and function just fine. Satisfying work so far.
  2. Thanks iinca. My full time job is a PM for a construction company so I spend a lot of time sussing out quotes. I just had that gut feeling that FIC's number was shooting straight.
  3. Well, I think I have come to the end of my abilities on getting the K-pump to do its thing. All the valves and also the disassembled fuel injectors have spent a week in a kerosene bath in the ultrasonic cleaner, with the cleaner running a cycle at least once a day (it has a 480 second) maximum time. This weekend I wiped off/blew out/reassembled and tested it all again. All the valve parts seem have movement and flow as best i can tell without specialized equipment. I went for broke on the first try and mounted the fuel injectors. Nada. Next I pulled off the injectors. With the fuel pump running and without cranking the #1 line starts to flow fuel. That can't be right. I do get flow now at all three of the others with cranking, but nothing that appears to be a good volume. I think it is time to send the pump off. I have been in touch with the Fuel Injector Center and H and R Fuel Injection. FIC quotes $800 all in to repair. H and R says $400 to get it running, $1,300 to completely overhaul and return with 1 year warranty. I need to get with the car owner to see which direction he wants to go. My guess is that either group will get the job done. My sense is that FIC for $800 is a turn-key deal (not sure about a warranty,) and that the low H&R number will go up once they figure out parts required etc. So unless anyone wants to jump in with another idea, looks like I need to start fabricating a puller for the pump gear. Thanks! John
  4. Progress is slow, but still making progress, I think... I now have an ultrasonic cleaner filled with kerosene, and my wife devised a clever 4-way divider to keep parts for each cylinder matched. I ran the pump pistons and associate parts through the cleaner a few time, wiped them down, gave a light coating of oil and reassembled the k-pump "head." The gasket was pretty well gone, so I did smear on a very light coating of permatex gasket maker. When I first put the head on I did not tighten it thinking it would be better for the gasket material to set up, but this created too much space between the "tappet" and the piston so I got no movement in the piston. Went ahead and tightened it down and I got what seems like appropriate movement. Next was the suction and pressure valves. Once ran through a few cycles I realized the valves now had movement when I pressed on the spring loaded disk with some stiff plastic tubing (wire insulation to be precise,) and this seemed like a really good sign. Cleaned all that up and reassembled the valves on to the head, hooked up the fuel lines (blew those out with air,) and reconnected the battery, turned the key and reinserted the fuel pump fuse. Immediately I saw fuel moving into several of the fuel lines. Not sure this is correct, but at least it is different. Then cranked the motor (no fuel injectors attached.) I got varying amounts of fuel through the lines. There was not a lot of pressure in any of the lines, one produced double the volume of the two others, and one produced no fuel. So, disassembled everything and put it back into the kerosene soak. Before doing so I tried to push in on the pressure valve disk while blowing air through the tube, it did seem like the at least one was blocked while others had some flow. So all valves and disassembled injectors are now swimming in kerosene, and I will hit the run cycle on the cleaner morning and night. Will try to put it all together again this weekend and give it another try. Also going to put a call in to The Fuel Injection Center to get some hi-low estimate on a rebuild. Fun photos attached including very special non-magnetic tweezers. Stay well! John
  5. Thanks to all for the encouragement and guidance. Looks like I will be picking up an ultrasonic cleaner! I will look into the French site for a gasket. Volvo uses anaerobic sealer for oil pans that works great, has little push out, but might be too thin? Not sure if the gasket is in play on the amount of throw of the piston? Will definitely ship it to one of the known experts if that becomes necessary.
  6. I pulled the caps off the suction valves, removed them and went to work on checking to see if the plungers had any movement. I pulled the belt off the pump so I could rotate it by hand. Not one moved. Gave them all a healthy shot of PB Blaster and went to work, tapping on them with chop sticks. It took some time, but eventually I got them all to move. Pretty remarkable how short the range of motion is. Reassembled the pump and got set to crank the engine again. I still had one fuel line connected to a fuel injector that was out of the manifold, and one fuel line without an injector attached. Ran the fuel pump for a while and then cranked the engine. Nothing... So I pulled off all the fuel lines from the pump. Cranked again. While each varied, generally the amount of fuel coming out was a trickle. I figure I have nothing to loose, so I went ahead and pulled the "head" off the pump. Once off I cleaned out all the passages, none seemed clogged. The best I can figure is that the suction/pressure valves are shot. I guess I will still reassemble the pump and try once more. Any sense in soaking the valves in cleaner? The pump had never been opened before, there was a seal on one of the hex bolts, and there was a gasket present that came apart when the halves were separated. Anyone have an opinion on what to use to reseal the "head" to the pump body? I suppose the next step might be to remove the pump and ship it off to be rebuilt. Any sense in checking with local diesel shops? Thanks, John
  7. Steve, Rob does, Ray provides a couple of the links. One has broken photos, but you can go to Rob's "HackBlog" to see them. I agree, most information and trouble shooting I have read does lead to a "failed pump" diagnosis so I am hopeful that the pistons are locked up in the bore and can be persuaded to move again. My understanding is that hey are not "hard connected" as per a shaft but ride on springs, so it make sense that they wouldn't be freed up by pump motion. I noted that the "serviceable" parts are suction valves, pressure valves and the pressure relief valve. Looked those up... suction and pressure valves are prohibitively expensive. $480 and $145 respectively and relief valve is NLA. Bet if I towed it to the Vintage it would be running for the return trip!
  8. Thanks all for the replies. Steve, to be more clear, I get 28-30 psi whenever the pump is running (ignition in the run position.) The key currently does not run the starter so I have a remote starter hooked up and to avoid longer pump run times I am using the fuse in and out as a switch. When I pull the fuse the pressure quickly drops off, but I suspect that is normal with this set up. (I am coming off rebuilding a 2001 Volvo turbo motor, so basically I have to unlearn all that...) Ray, thanks, I do have the manual, re-read the trouble shooting section yesterday but getting dangerously close to the "no user serviceable parts inside" line! dlacey That sounds like the next practical step. I guess I need to fabricate some brass tweezers (no magnets!) and eat some Chinese food this week! danco _ The old o-ring seals were totally brittle, I can't believe they did not leak more, no flexibility the broke into pieces when I took them off. I used this link from another post to order the replacements. They seem to fit perfectly and are fuel rated. http://www.theoringstore.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=368_12_11&products_id=7395 I replaced the o-ring on the fuel return fitting with one I had left over in my stash of "Volvo" parts. I don't think the genuine rings are magical, but I will keep an eye on these inexpensive alternates as (hopefully) I get pump up to working pressure.
  9. Here is the latest... The injection pump now has a brand new belt. I wanted to be sure that I had the timing correct, so I pulled off the valve cover, and after some time was able to line up the crank pulley marks and find the correct marks on the flywheel. Having a fair amount of experience with timing belts it seems odd not to have any kind of tensioner on this belt.. I replaced all the o-rings in the 4 top caps on top of the injection pump and the o-ring on the return fuel fitting. No more leaks there. I can confirm that the "O-ring Store" parts as noted in other posts work just fine, $8 for 20!. With everything buttoned back up I tried cranking the motor again. This time I noted that the cold start valve was leaking, but with starter fluid I did get a couple of encouraging "I want to start" sounds. Still no real start. I decided to pull an injector. So, off with all the intake tubes. The injectors were bone dry... not a good sign. I had yet to confirm that I had the correct fuel pump pressure, so off to get a loaner, and now can confirm I get 28-30psi off the pump, thought the pressure fell off quickly when I stopped cranking. I pulled an injector off the line to see if I got any fuel when cranking, nothing, I believe the only serviceable part in the pump left are the suction valves. I have I missed anything else? The possible step of pulling the pump and sending in off for reconditioning is an expensive one so I want to be sure I have exhausted the other possibilities.
  10. Definitely try to get a visual on it (use a mirror?) to confirm that there is not foreign material (broken off wire plastic or other) in the hole. I think Rob Siegel recently ran into a similar situation in one of his write ups.
  11. How about the "protection cap" that was on the end of the seat rail. I think my car might have one left. If I remember it is "L" shaped, maybe a silvery plastic. PROTECTION CAP 52107402073
  12. Since I have a few specific questions I thought I would start a new topic. This is a continuation of the journey documented here: https://www.bmw2002faq.com/forums/topic/255874-1974-tii/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-1389163 I was able to get the all the fuel lines buttoned up and confirmed that the fuel pump pushed fuel up through the filter after filling the cleaned tank with a gallon or two of fresh fuel. With the pump running the fuel line to the cold start valve let me know that even though it looked fine it was not, and did so by spraying fuel out at a good rate. Hey, at least the pump seems to be doing it's thing! I replaced that line and ran the pump again. The pump is seeping fuel from the 4 fitting on top of the pump, but, after putting a fire extinguisher close by, that did not stop me from cranking it, but, no fire. I pulled a spark plug, dry as a bone. I took off the fuel line that was most easily accessible, a small amount of fuel visible at the outlet from the pump, but none in the line. I decided that I should pull the cover off the K-pump belt. I suppose that what I thought I could see as the gear moving through a gap in the cover was an illusion, or perhaps just the last vestige of the "belt" was turning, or maybe it was just the movement of the last strands of nylon...there is no belt present! Two questions. Is there a best place to order the belt from? Do I need to order something to seal up the top part of the pump? I did pull up the pump manual briefly, it does look like there are serviceable parts there. Two steps forward, one step back!
  13. Oh, and that rodent chewed hose, while you can get a section that will join to the k-fish pump and hard pipe that will physically fit the nipples, it won't make the necessary turn without crimping. It will probably keep the coolant in, but won't circulate much. Have noted not to run the motor too long without the right hose.
  14. Slowing working towards getting this old beast to run... I cleaned up the fuse box and put in new fuses. The wipers must be locked up as that fuse heated up rapidly, the hazard switch is stuck out so I pulled that one back out and the right front head light filled with smoke. And generally only a few bulbs are burning, but, the fuel pump did run with the ignition on. Still need to confirm it will pump fuel through the new fuel lines. Still need to source a 12mm hose from the tank to the pump, but I think I can get 3/8" tp do for now. I cleaned out the fuel pick up... will need a new screen in the future and also the sender (why not?) and installed those in the tank. The car had cranked before with the key, but has given that up, so I jumpered the ignition feed on the starter so that I can simply touch a wire to the positive on the battery. This allowed me to confirm that there is no spark. This led to a variety of coil/ condenser swapping with know good from my other 2002. Of course, in the end, it was the points. Never underestimate how bad a decent looking set of points can be. I confirmed I now have spark at all four plugs. I am disappointed that I could not get a chug chug out of the motor with a little starter fluid. I probably should look at the static timing, though I have no reason to believe that would be off. It cranks nicely though and that action spewed a little more rodent material out of the tail pipe. Next weekend I hope to confirm the fuel pump pumps, button up the fuel lines and see if she will run. 001.MOV
  15. Thanks PTW and NYN. I did remove the nibbled hose (teeth marks and all, see photo,) and bought a new section today at the local parts house. I will double check the other hoses. Placed an order today with FCP Euro for a correct filter and 8mm hose and will source some decent clamps. Yes, the hard line is in place and intact and appears original. The rust appears surface only, I will double check the full length to be sure it is sound, and keep an eye on it.
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