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  1. Progress from this weekend, removed the fuel tank and started the cleaning process, still in the works but I think I can get it clean enough by hand to be used for trying to get the car started. The body around the tank looks pretty good. Next weekend I will crawl under and get to the fuel pump.
  2. It was fairly exciting to rub through the layers of oil on the engine block to get to the VIN stamp there and find that it matched. Love all the comments. I will report back with progress updates. Next weekends goal is to pull the gas tank and purge all the old fuel in the system.
  3. Thanks for the replies all, I love the 02 community! The sunroof will make for an interesting investigation. I cleaned out the car when it was delivered to my garage, no records. My friend who will maintain ownership for now, bought it off a car lot in the 80's I believe without knowing much about it and without any history. Good call on the Octavos. They are the "100+" model. Spare too, with classic Pirelli tire still mounted. I am in Winston-Salem. I have owned a '73 (non-tii) for quite a while. I have met Mike at The Vintage on several occasions. Original color (and what is left on the car) is anthrazitgrau, interior is tan. Great resources for the fuel injection, thanks! I will attach a few more pictures here, but happy to provide specific photos too. Let the debate begin on the struck through VIN on the body! All the other VIN numbers (steering column, engine block, door sticker and riveted plate match) Cheers, John
  4. Hey All- I am in possession of 2782377. The car has been sitting in a garage for over 20 years. I am friends with the owner and we have worked out an agreement that hopefully will get the car back on the road, future ownership TBD. It is rough around the edges, but the body is sound in the right places. Generally it looks to be fairly original with the exception of the radio, steering wheel, road wheels and maybe, the sunroof. I have attached a few photos, anyone have any thoughts on the sunroof being original to the car or not? There appear to be two drain tubes one on each side that come out around the height of the bottom of the window. The overhead light is not centered in the head liner, it is over the driver's door and it has a motor/switch installed to operate it. Obviously the motor/switch is not original. Top priority is investigating the condition of the motor and working through to get it running, so the sunroof is just a curiosity. I did find a sticker for Lott's Auto Stereo-Auto Upholstery in Santa Cruz, the are still in business at that location so I dropped them an e-mail to see if they had any records. Car is now in North Carolina. Should be fun to see if I can get this car moving again. Thanks, John
  5. Thanks, but that is for the cables. I believe there is one for the box itself... somewhere.
  6. Probably user error, but I can not find the Heater Box Rebuild instructions. Links in older discussions for it are not working. Cable replacement, found it, valve, that too, but not the whole box. Thanks
  7. Thanks @DFMC and @tim355. I am not looking for a perfect item...would look out of place on my car! tim355, I will try to contact you directly. John
  8. The nose section has responded fairly well to the hammer... and the welder... I am able to reuse the nose. Thanks for the reply and offer though.
  9. Looking for a driver quality center grill. Trying to get the car back on the road and have managed to salvage other components...well, not the bumper center section but I have one of those... but the center grill is pretty toasted. If you have a good "frame" I can probably figure out a way to use my "slats." Thanks.
  10. Sorry to hear about this Bill. I am currently going through a similar situation, a person made a left hand turn in the opposite direction and I hit them. Good news is that they are insured and they are at fault. I would encourage you to be patient. On first pass the insurance company came back with "totaled" and offered about $2500 including a $500 buy back. I asked to see the report and comparables. I asked lots of questions and provided my own, I was not argumentative but did not accept their offer. They sent out an independent appraiser. I recently got a call from the original adjuster asking for my help providing resources for replacement parts. This tells me the value is heading in the right direction. Stay tuned!
  11. Thanks again to all who provided guidance, bonus points to those beating the "check the ground" drum. I have been working on cars for many years and am still amazed at how often the same rules apply, start with the simple things, just because it looks good does not mean it is good, just because it tests good in static does not mean it is good under load or running conditions...etc. etc. etc. The new ground cable arrived and I was able to swap it out this weekend. Before doing so i checked it's resistance versus the old one, of course they read the same. I was quite sure that I would be replacing the bad starter. Of course, the two other starters that I replaced in the last 4 years should have served as a living testimony that I had been on the wrong track, but the way they smoked... Anyway, ground cable changed out and with the help of a jumper battery she cranked right back to life! I double checked the voltage at the battery and it was receiving about 13.5 volts, so charging function seems good. So there you have it.
  12. Thanks again. Here is a quick update: I removed and checked the resistance in the ground strap, it was about 2.5 ohms, the same as when I connect the probes directly to each other, so my guess is that the strap is OK. I do have a new one on order. I cleaned and reconnected the ground strap, but still no go. I am beginning to think I have received a bad starter and plan to return it. Mike, the alternator connections appear OK, though the brown wire's insulation is a little melted at the plug (this looks like an old issue) a few inches back.) The regulator is new and I have checked over the charging system. If faulty, would these affect starting, other than not having a fully charged battery? I am going to pull the starter and put a spare on this weekend. Will report back.
  13. Helpful advice guys, I will concentrate on the grounds. AceAndrew, can you roughly help me locate the engine to frame rail ground. Not sure I have looked at that one. John
  14. Thank in advance of any guidance you can provide, sorry in advance for the lengthy post... My 1973 02 is usually a regular, but not daily driver. I have been chasing a starting issue (could be multiple issues) that seems to be recurring on a regular basis. The issue: The car will turn over at full strength for several twists of the key, then, with just a click and a puff of smoke from near the bell housing it will not turn over again. I have replaced the battery and the starter during the last year, each replacement seemed to cure the issue, but it has now returned. This weekend I installed a new positive cable from the battery to the starter, I intended to replace the ground as well, but it was out of stock. The starter clicked and begin to turn the engine very slowly. I connected a jumper battery and got the same results. The negative and positive cables get pretty warm and I am being careful to not keep the key on long. So what is next? The ground cable appears to be OK...the last time I replaced the starter I reattached the bracket at the head of the starter and the ground cable mounts at this point. It worked fine for several weeks before this recent recurrence. Other items that I think are unrelated but I mention them here since they have come up in other posts. Brown wire at alternator 3 prong connector is a little fried looking, probably still working though, my guess is this would be a charging issue not a starting issue. Voltage regulator is new. Ground wire from alternator to the block is intact. Should I go ahead and get the ground cable? What other tests can be performed? Any of the other items mentioned need to be dealt with? Again, thanks for you time and thoughts. John
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