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visionaut

Kugelfischer
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Everything posted by visionaut

  1. I got mine a Griot's Garage (they have both a catalog & online store). It was $45 or so. Mine has lasted 3 years already and still looks new. I think it's well worth the money...
  2. I think there's a definite quality & ease-of-use difference with custom-fit window shades, like the Covercraft UVS100 I use in my 02. Folds up small, installs quickly and is an exact fit for the 02's front windshield. Costs a bit more - but as is often said "you get what you pay for".
  3. Well that was fast!!!! ;-) It was only a draft - but it looks OK to me. Maybe others will see and comment, or come up with new/better ones...
  4. that one is cool, but may be somethign a litle less flashy so it matches the rest of the site in color. may be transparent background? thansk. steve k. Done. Still just a draft idea. visionaut (Tom)
  5. FYI - the VDO clock that fits the Parker Performance console faceplate gauge holes is VERY hard to come by. And if you do find one, if you have A/C behind the console, it won't fit (it's a much deeper gauge than the VDO volt/temp gauges.) Ask me how I know.... ;-)
  6. Just an FYI to anyone else - BavAuto also sells 'em (not listed in their online store - call to order).
  7. I've a 'factory' Motorsports 300-deg cam that was worn that I took out of my motor when I did a full rebuild. It doesn't look like this (no micro-ridges).
  8. I have mine mounted on the rear subframe. The pump works better mounted lower than the tank.
  9. Cool find. Looks like some nice details on the model (engine bay sheet metal). The mirrors look unusual - wonder where you find real ones like those ;-)? The fender flares in the cover pic look like Alpina ones vs Turbo bubble-flares... Have fun putting it together!
  10. That's the same brand of intake manifold I have on my motor (I'm running dual 40 DCOEs). They used to come in two different lengths. Mine is the longer one, and is a bit longer than many other available Weber intake manifolds. (a longer intake tract length, and higher manifold volume can aid torque and flowrate). Warneford was an Australian company, and they made Weber intake manifolds for several different car brands/models besides BMW. HTH...
  11. I can only comment on the Oil Pressure sensor. The unit in your 1st picture on the right. You need an adapter for it. The adapter screws into the head, and sender/sensor screws into the adapter. (Mine wasn't brass like KFunk's but I expect it's similar, in it offsets and angles the VDO sender some from the hole in the head). I have no idea why it's so big, but it works - you hook your Oil Pressure idiot light up to one terminal and your VDO Oil Pressure gauge to the other.
  12. JB Racing makes a very nice aluminum flywheel. That's also the one Ireland Eng sells.
  13. Thanks, I'll try that other email addy. I'd expect they're good folks - just no replies at the posted email...
  14. I just went though this (picking pistons for a full motor rebuild). I personally trust what Jeff Ireland says (he really know's his stuff!) and stay lower than 10:1 compression (you'll need premium fuel). You can use a thicker head gasket to lower compression some (add more to offset anything you remove from the cylinder head deck height or off the top of the block), but with your stroker cranks you'll also want to be very careful about piston-valve clearance in your choice. (With that stroke, it's even possible the top of the piston travels past the head-block matting surface.) Jeff also advised not going over 90mm bore diam - and not just for those reasons (gaskets, etc,), but also because cylinder wall thickness starts to get more marginal above that. For hi-perf/race applications, and high heat/stresses that can cause problems. Larger diams obviously get you more displacement, and all else being equal that's better for torque, but the diff in displacement may only be 100ccs more... The larger bore diam may also drive not just more machining of the block, but also the head (see piston travel comment above). Also, with either bore, with the stroker crank, you'd likely NOT be looking at domed pistons, but flattops/notched ones. My 2cents. HTH...
  15. I've been trying to contact Michael Cahsel via the email address listed as Contact on his website for over a month. 4 emails so far, no responses. I want to buy stuff from him - guess he doesn't care (I'm in Denver, CO, and my emails are in english???). I was guessing he must have shut down or gone out of business, but left the website running... He's got some really nice rare stuff there. Has anyone else here had any success recently buying stuff from him/them?
  16. That's a Kerker muffler (not an exhaust cap) - it uses a set of mechanical baffles in a stack formation to create/manage exhaust free-flow vs. backpressure. Popular on motorcycles...
  17. I've got 911 Recaros in mine (w/electric tilt adjust). I think they fit/line up fine and have a great seating position (not high at all). I have a custom mounting rail along the trans-tunnel (aluminum L-rail), but it still uses the stock mount on the outsides - so I can use the original fore-aft adjusters. They do sit slightly outboard - about 1-inch seat center to steering wheel center, though when driving it's not noticeable at all (pic seems to show more, that's perspective working to exagerate it - I cropped this out of a larger pic centered on the car - see my avatar). BTW, I even had my rear seats reupholstered to match the pinhole leather center panels of the Recaros.
  18. OK - so I'm willing to spend $40 for a new replacement dome light assy for my 1976 2002 w/sunroof. My lens is brittle/yellowed, and the position switch is snapped in half. SO WHERE CAN I BUY IT? My searching on Google and at my favorite parts stores all come up empty. You folks all seem to know it costs $40-42, so you must know it's available somewhere... TIA Tom (aka visionaut)
  19. I've just recently installed a new JB Racing aluminum flywheel in my 76 (~160HP) which has the 320i 5-speed conversion. I'm using all 228mm parts. I went with this combo (based on good advice from IE) for the clutch kit: • A Sachs E30 M3 Pressure plate (this equates to the Sachs HD part in clamping force, for way less $, and retains stock-like clutch feel.) • A Sachs Tii clutch disk (this has less copper friction material than the Sachs HD unit, but with the M3 pressure plate will hold very well.) • A 323i Throw-out bearing (320i TO bearing is 215mm). Depending on your particulars, you can get nice clutch kit from IE for around $200-350...
  20. I'd be in on a group buy too -- if price is right.
  21. I've got a slightly different domelight problem. (My door switch works after I replaced parts). The slider on my domelight assy itself has broken (aged plastic). I've looked around and can't find a replacement domelight assembly (with the integrated slider switch) anywhere. I'd also like to put a new non-yellowed lens on it too while at it - can't find that either. Are these NLA? or if not, can someone tell me a few sources? Thx.
  22. So can you share the part #s with us? (I'd like a set of the Italian ones, but don't want to pay extortion prices.)
  23. Lash caps are common on reground cams with higher lift. Never heard of a 273 deg duration before - that places it between a stock 264 and the common 284.
  24. My 2cents... It might look good painted white to match the body. As is, in matte black rubber/plastic it doesn't look that good to me.
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