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About dtharp113

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  1. Cleaning out the closet and discovered a bundle of 2002 manuals; 1) the blue binder repair manual - cover worn and pages well thumbed but is all intact, 2) McCartney's BMW '02 Restoration Guide; 3) a well-worn Haynes 2002 manual; 3) Larimer's MNW Buyer's Guide. Bundle price of $90.00 (plus shipping ) for all 4 items. Contact me w/ any questions Dennis
  2. Doing some spring cleaning and found these items: 34 21 1 113 656 - ATE Brake Master Cylinder. 21 52 1 104 269 - FTE Clutch Slave cylinder. Both are New In Box. Asking $150.00 for both or $150.00 (Master)/ $50.00 (Slave). Postage/shipping (via USPS) in CONUS included. Local pickup available (NoVA/Metro DC area)
  3. FOR Sale: 1974 BMW 2002, Polaris. Daily driver for the past 8 years – certainly not a concours competitor but has been maintained and cared for. Interior needs work (see below – I have all missing trim pieces) – rear seat has been deleted (cover was too far gone to attempt to save). Much of the work needed is cosmetic – there is a transmission issue that should be addressed sooner rather than later (see below) The good: 1. Solid body everywhere 2. New tie rods, bushings, and control arm. Stainless Ireland exhaust; re-cored radiator and new thermostat, water pump, coil and Ireland distributor installed 3. 5 spd transmission w/ limited slip diff and oversized front brakes. Upgraded short throw shift kit 4. sound deadening throughout interior of car 5. working sunroof, crack free dash 6. current VA safety inspection 7. Rear seal, guibo refreshed. Stainless steel brake lines installed Needs additional work: 1. Pilot bearing in transmission may need replacing 2. Front seats need to be covered or reupholstered; interior trim needs to be installed (I have these in a box) 3. Struts and shocks could/should be replaced ? Not really sure but I have replacements 4. Driving lights need to be wired in 5. Bumpers need to be bolted in and covers and corners need to be reinstalled (I have those) 6. Fan motor needs to be adjusted so it doesn’t rattle when operating 7. Dash underpanels need to be installed (I have those) 8. Should replace sunroof seals (I have those) 9. Fender reflectors need to be reinstalled (have those) II'm sure there are some other things that I've missed and I'm sure that forum members in the DMV will chime in. In any case, you can reach me at [email protected] or thru this forum or via text. Pics are sitting in Dropbox - let me know and I'll send you the link.
  4. Right, so let me see if I'm understanding this (there's a reason why I was a liberal arts major and not an engineer…) the higher the Celsius rating on the thermostat, the higher the water temp needs to be open said t-stat, which means the engine runs warmer (than if one used a lower C rated t-stat), which means in hotter areas one would use a 71 and in colder areas of the country an 80. Correct? Part 2 is my puzzlement over the 30° delta between the radiator hoses and the engine block and why my water temp is not getting over 150°. Could the lower water temp be a result of the thermostat
  5. I was using an IR thermometer to check the hose/thermostat housing temps, and the stock temp gauge hasn't worked in a quite a while (that's why I have a VDO gauge installed). So, from what i can gather from the replies, it sounds like I have the wrong temp thermostat installed.
  6. Am vexed by my cooling system: I replaced the t-stat in my '74 (the new stat is a 75). Since replacing, my temp gauge has been showing low (150's) temp, my oil pressure has been on the high (approx 30 while idling/ 50+ while driving in 5th gear). This is a change from my original numbers of 180°/ 30lbs. Some additional data (because I know someone will ask…): 3min after start: top hose=70°; tstat housing = 79°; lower rad hose=68°; oil press = 70 15 min idle: top hose 148°; tstat housing 122°; lower hose 109°; oil press 30 (at idle) after 20 min drive: top hose 151°; tstat housing 132°; lower hose 128°; oil press during drive approx 50lb. Engine block temp was measured at 185° I'm confident that the system has been burped, and I have good heat from the heater core. I'm feeling that these numbers are too low/high and a search of the FAQ confirmed this. My question is: should i swap out the current thermostat for a different temp (and if so, do I go higher (to 85) or lower (71°)? I've not found a good explanation of what temp thermostat one should run with in the FAQs. I'm not sure if another possibility would be a bad temp sensor/sender. If so, how would one test for that? Thanks,
  7. I'll check the filter tomorrow. I did pull the valve cover - didn't see much in the way of any spray from the oil bar (cover looked clean).
  8. The only thing that changed is the distributor flange. I got under the hood today, removed the distributor flange and ensured there was nothing obstructing the opening where the oil pressure switch is fed. I next ran a heavy gauge wire into the opening in the engine block (where it lines up with the pressure switch). Wire fed with little trouble and when I retrieved it, the wire was coated with oil. Buttoned everything back up, started the car and still no oil to the switch (I left it open to see if oil would pump out). So I'm stumped as to where I should be looking next. I feel like I can rule out: 1. Pressure sender 2. Blockage in the distributor flange Anyone want to throw out some other places I should be looking? I feel like my other option is to take her somewhere and have a shop go into the engine itself (don't really have the cash for that right now). Suggestions/thoughts/ ideas would be really appreciated! Thanks,
  9. Yeah. No idea. Ran a coat hanger sized wire down the port and in towards the block. Didn't feel any obstruction. Can I pop the valve cover and access it that way? May need to bite the bullet and order a new gasket, rip the flange off and do some exploratory surgery
  10. I am using the double post VDO sender but I marked the post prior to disassembly. Shouldn't I have oil enthusiastically coming up through the hole if there is no oil pressure switch/ sender in place?
  11. Installed the new distributor flange w/ new gasket and a bit of RTV Gasket sealant yesterday. Everything was buttoned up snug, topped off the oil and re-connected the VDO oil pressure sender. Car fired up like a champ and no oil leaks but the pressure isn't registering on the gauge. I've removed the oil pressure sender, leaving a gaping hole in the distributor flange, and started the car. No oil coming up thru. I've also treaded heavy gauge wire into the distributor flange (where the oil sender would mount) and it seems that there's no obstruction. Really hate to remove the flange just to confirm it's not obstructed. Any thoughts or comments? What am I not seeing/thinking of? thanks D Situation resolved. I drained and refilled the oil as well as filled the oil filter before installing. Disconnected the distributor and cranked the engine for several cycles. Once I re-connected the distributor and fired her up, the oil pressure needle hung at 0 for a moment, then shot to 60! Everything appears tight (no noticeable leaks or oil smells). Thanks to all for your input and comments. They were a huge help! D
  12. Operator error. Found a small piece of old gasket that caused the uneven mounting. Serves me right for not doing a dry fit first. I have the O ring washer - can that be reused or do I need a new one? If I need a new one, that'll open another can of whoopass. Thanks, D
  13. That didn't occur to me. I think that's unlikely as I mated the gasket to the flange prior to mounting but I've also learned to never say never. On a related note, looking at the diagram on RealOEM, it appears that there is an O ring on the bolt where the breakage is but really nothing else. Can someone confirm that's the case or am I misreading the diagram. Thanks loads to Grice for the part! D
  14. Followup to my earlier post about leaving well enough alone. Now with pictures! Overview of the distributor flange: Here's a better view (sorry about the orientation) And a closeup:
  15. Oh that would be fantastic! Would like to roll in to my new job in style!
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