AustrianVespaGuy

I'm leave this here for you cause it'll probably be helpful, even though it's for a 73 instead of 72! - At any rate, I can tell you the purple/black and brown/black are for SURE for the windshield washer pump; I think those colors never changed on any '02. - I'm also reasonably confident that first thing with the green/red is some emissions related junk that you don't want/need. - That's definitely the horn relay and a very nice looking voltage regulator. - A solid green wire is always, always, ALWAYS unfused +12V switched by the key. So either goes to supply a fuse(s), lights, or the ignition coil. Since it's got two terminals close together my guess would be it should go the the back of the fuse panel to supply two fuses with power - likely #4 and #12. 73 2002 color wiring diagram.pdf

Also it's not a big deal to cut out the tray. Only 3 short ~1" welds hold it in, took me maybe 10 min with the dremel, and then provides a great spot for plumbing your cold air intake for your EFI conversion. . . >:D

Might want to check in with the guys on this thread:

So there's three settings here that you need to sort out: wide open steps (sounds like 140 for you), homing direction (open or closed), and homing steps (probably 160 in your case). So, what happens is as follows: - The pintle first runs the number of homing steps in the homing direction. So if your homing direction is closed, it'll run 160 steps in the closed direction. Homing steps needs to be bigger than total steps to make SURE it gets all the way closed. - Next, it will run to the position (i.e. open up) set in your cranking curve for starting. - Once the engine starts, over the crank-to-run taper time it will move from the cranking position to the position given in the warmup curve, and then keep following that curve as the coolant temp comes up. - GENERALLY, closed position = 0 steps and your fully open position would be that 140 steps, but this is one of the things you really need to double check to make sure, because it can get backwards if you flipped either the Coil A vs. B OR the 1 vs. 2 wires when you wired everything up. If it just doesn't ever seem to do what you want, try changing the homing position; I home open instead of closed but can't honestly tell you if there was any real reason I set it up that way or not. At any rate, here's what mine look like for reference:

This I think is the real tragedy here. It's not just Porsches and 2002s, any and all cars that reward tinkering and true driving skills are being driven out of the market, not because there are no people that want to buy them, but because there are no people that want to and are in a position to buy them NEW! Personally I think it has a lot to do with the Big Lease Game that nowadays is so lucrative for dealerships. So those of us, young and old alike, are left to fight each other for whatever turns up on the used market. I half wonder if the current large uptick in new electric vehicles will help briefly push more of the fun used stuff onto the market, but even if it does it'll only be temporary and the driving/tinkering-for-pleasure crowd faces a pretty uncertain future market. But for Pete's sake @Slavs , let go of some of that E30 hate, buddy! They're perfectly great cars for certain things. I too prefer my 2002 for any winding mountain roads, but the tire clearances, suspension options, and general lower-parts-cost-if-you-happen-to-meet-a-tire-wall lead me to preferring my E30 for: (And no, once all the unnecessary bits are removed, it's not at all too heavy!!!)

Ahh, that's clever! I suppose it's just based on a threshold of TPS% < X => use Table #2? I know Megasquirt supports tableswitching, but I always thought it was just for Nitrous or Ethanol or whatever, so I'll need to play around some with this idea! Can you do it for fuel too, or just timing? Then again, how does that end up different from just dialing in the right values in the main tables? I mean, when you're at 800-1000 RPM, 0 throttle, does it really matter whether your 45VE and 15deg is in Table1 or Table2? I think I must still be missing something here. Always more to learn!

Yep, it's as easy as just changing the size so that it recalculates req_fuel for the new injectors, and shouldn't need to mess with VE table. It certainly can do closed loop, but I still recommend that as a second step after getting open loop working properly and a decent tune first. Too often people will have some VE or timing variations in the idle areas of their tables, and between those and the closed loop stepper trying to control air, the idle ends up hunting because everything is 'changing.' Also, that Jeep stepper for a 4.0L is on the big side for the half-sized M10, so even a small number of steps can sometimes make a pretty big change in idle speed. It'll all still work just fine of course, I just think it's a lot to tackle for someone just starting out with an EFI conversion, whereas the open loop method is a bit simpler to get going with, and then come back to closed loop later after they've gotten the hang of things. Same goes for starting with time-based accel enrichment before trying to tackle wall-wetting algorithms!

Yes. When the car is fully warmed up, you want the throttle plate stop screw set to hold it cracked open to your desired idle speed. The stepper motor valve is then only used to let in additional air during warmup, but you want it closed and out of the equation by the time you're up to temperature. UNLESS you're running air conditioning, in which case you can also use it to bring up the idle speed when the compressor is running. But for the general sake of simplicity, just use it for warmup only! I close mine down by 170. If you really have the old/original green board (and both sensors have barbs on them) and not the new bluish board (where the baro sensor has no barb), then yes those weird 147/-47 settings should be correct, BUT, since you're running Extra firmware, you then need to zero out the Barometric Correction curve (which is usually defaulted to 100). OR, you can zero out the total vacuum and rate in the calibration, and then set up the correction curve instead. But if you have the 147/-47 in the calibration and 100 in the correction curve, yeah that'll make things *not* right. (There's a super tiny text box in the bottom of the curve window that explains this). Even though it's firing twice, that's still only twice per 720 degrees of crank revolution (compression and exhaust strokes), so it's still always firing at the same time every 360deg of crank revolution and so works just fine with a timing light. Dizzy fires a given plug just once every OTHER crank revolution. And it's very possible that you'll need to adjust the trigger angle offset some depending exactly how your crank, wheel, and sensor positions all stack up. That's why it's important to do this exercise, so that when your MS tells EDIS to fire at say 20deg BTDC, it then fires when the crank is ACTUALLY AT 20 deg BTDC, and not 13deg (<- 7deg offset)!

I think you could absolutely go this route and it'll run OK, at least for a while. That then buys you a bit of time to shop for/buy/tear down/machine/build up a new motor to your exact liking, and have minimal off-the-road-downtime whenever it comes time to make the swap!

YAY MEGASQUIRT!!! Thanks for the tag @irdave! And no worries @Nateb603, I gotcha covered! And everything @jimk is correct, first and foremost being those injectors are probably too small for a forced induction build. But now to the fun stuff! - FIRST: Is your Req_Fuel correct? For an M10 w/24# injectors should be 13.3, but double check before we end up chasing our tail! - You said you checked timing, but have you REALLY checked timing? This means a timing light! Use the 'Fixed Advance' option in the ignition settings menu to set the timing to a known, fixed value, and use the timing light to make sure that's ACTUALLY when it's firing (pretty easy to see with that 36-tooth wheel, since each tooth = 10 degrees ) Idle is probably shit at 0deg BTDC, but try 10 and 20 and make sure they're both right/change as expected. You can then adjust the offset as needed to get it spot on. In my experience, the M10 wants idle advance to be in the mid-teens. Start with 15 deg, keep it STEADY in the idle cells of the table, and play around one degree at a time if you want. - Now for the amount of air at idle, those steppers can sometimes be a bitch. Pull the adapter block off the manifold but leave the stepper in it. Power on the car and play with the stepper settings until you are SURE you know A.) it's moving and B.) which way it moves, i.e. whether *MORE* steps = more closed or more open. Finally, you'll want to get an idea of the total number of steps of its range (I think mine is on the order of 170-180) between fully closed and fully open. THEN you can proceed with making the warmup curve so that it runs to a partially-open position for cold cranking, then tapers down to closed by the time it's warmed up. - Next, have you confirmed that your AEM is working properly, and calibrated so that Megasquirt reads it properly? Once your confident there and have a decent idle, it's time for the best part of all: DATALOGS!!! ? Take some, and post/pm them to me along with your tune, and I'll teach you what to look for in them so that we can start tuning your VE table.

Ok, my 2 cents, since I'm picky about electrical stuff: - To answer your question yes, all the solid green wires are the unfused switched 12 volts, hot in both run and start positions. - But no, I don't like using the unfused wires from the ignition switch (really for anything), I feel that's bad practice. - What I would recommend instead (assuming you're a late-model 12-fuse) is to use the extra factory fused radio connection that comes off of the hazard switch; it's purple with a white stripe, and is hot in accessory and run positions (but not start): EDIT: Now see that you have a '71, which may not have this free pigtail. If not, I would then say best bet is to just run a new wire from on of the free terminals on the BACK of the fuse panel. If you unscrew it and lift it up, you should be able to find a lot of extra unused terminals on the underside. Pick one (on the fused side) that can take some extra load. Like the one that does the interior light and hazards, #8 maybe?

So I'm going to take you a bit on a sideways tangent here, but I promise it's relevant! You project there looks like a prime candidate for this M20 plug-n-play Megasquirt upgrade: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirtpnp-g2-b8793-for-the-87-92-bmw-e30-325i/ You'd be able to ditch that clunky AFM, clean up your wiring and (here's the relevant part), see EXACTLY what temperature your coolant sensor is reading and then have it automatically turn on/off your electric cooling fan accordingly (no extra temp switch needed, plus adjustable!) Just sayin'. . .

So, while I get pretty severe sticker shock from it, I'm delighted that someone has FINALLY made a good looking electric AC kit for 911s. . . maybe one day we'll be able to figure out something similar (and hopefully without the requisite 911-markup!) for 2002s! https://www.classicretrofit.com/collections/electric-air-conditioning/products/air-conditioning-kit-for-classic-911-full-kit (Sorry for the topic drift, back to ITBs now!)

This is 100% correct, and it's also to important to remember that a 40mm throttle BODY is the full 40mm diameter all the way through, where as a 40mm diameter CARB will be choked down to something more like a 34mm diameter at the venturi, so in terms of airflow you can't really compare carb throttle plate sizes to TB throttle plate sizes.

I agree I wouldn't bother with cam timing, at least to start with. You can always add it later on if you decide you want to. Also, sorta along those same lines, your wiring is looking very nice but I highly recommend you put a few strategic connectors in a few places to 'break' it up and modularize things a bit. When it comes to troubleshooting or any changes down the road, this can be a HUGE headache saver for adding/removing/changing out system bits without resorting to pulling the whole thing and/or trying pull wires all the way through the thing! EDIT: Er, sorry, seems I was on page 2 of 3, looks like it's basically done now, oh well, looks great!

Bumping this thread cause I myself need new tires. Anyone know the difference between the Azenis RT615K and RT660s??? Basically same price point so I'm suddenly and unexpectedly spoiled for a choice! https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Falken&tireModel=Azenis+RT615K%2B&partnum=96HR4RT615KP https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Falken&tireModel=Azenis+RT660&partnum=96HR4RT660

So I somehow missed this thread for 5 years, but maybe better late than never? Lots of experience with the EDIS tach stuff and here's my consolidated knowledge base on the subject: - Very difficult to get the simple diode circuit to work properly. I *think* it has something to do with fact that the EDIS coil packs have much longer dwell (since there's two of them), and I think the total 'combined' flyback voltage starts to get too high for the factory tach, which is why it often works at lower RPMs and then cuts out as the revs climb. - Using the Clean Tach Out from pin 11 on the EDIS module with a sizeable NON-POLARIZED capacitor wired in-line (series) going straight to the tach. This is generally the easiest/best method, but you CANNOT use a polarized (metal cylinder style) capacitor, that for sure will not work! - I am just about to build the relay coil 'emulator' circuit that @jimk mentioned to see if that works well with the 2002 tach; I suspect that it will but if the inductance of the relay coils is enough different than the primary winding of the stock coil then there may be some issues. - I also suspect the autosport labs circuit would suffer from similar issues to the DIY diode circuit, but sounds like the one John has is at least working fine, but I've never tried one myself.

Safety is another thing to consider here; atomized fuel on the OUTSIDE of the throttles can get pretty exciting pretty fast if the engine backfires!

This is where my money is. Both the hand brake switch AND the brake fluid level float ground out that circuit an trigger the light. Almost for sure complicating the matter, if not the root cause. Whatever the case, get an EL13 if you're sticking with incandescent bulbs in the four corners, or get the right flasher relay for LEDs if you're going to switch out those exterior ones as well. I forget exactly which flasher you need, but I remember it's a specific one that has both an external ground wire AND the extra wire meant to control the dashboard light. Should be able to find it pretty easily with a quick search!

As far as rust + 02s go. . . I consider that 'Not at all bad.' Definitely clean it up and paint the metal to protect it, but whether you weld in a patch, patch it with fiberglass, or just leave the small hole. . . I think as long as you keep an eye on it those would all be perfectly acceptable solutions for a hole that small.

Talk to @bluedevils here on the FAQ. I got some E39 rear belts from him that mount on the rear package shelf (with reinforcement on the underside). As I recall, there isn't *really* enough room under the rear seat to mount good retractors there, hence the parcel shelf route. You can also still put the retractors then and then go up through anchors on the C pillars for adult-sized people, but since my current needs are for smaller humans, that's not (yet) necessary:

You know what I love? How here on the FAQ you can necro a decade old post and get a great answer from the OP that same day! What a great community this place is!

Ha, how about that?! Ok, I stand corrected then!

Naw, in fact I think much of the appeal of the 2002 comes from its inherent anti-supercar-ness. High enough production numbers to make decent availability, easy to work on, easy to live with, surprisingly utilitarian. . . in short all the qualities I felt our old contemporary 911 DIDN'T posses, and then even further down that spectrum we get to the real supercars, like the Countach or Stratos, and now IMO you're about as far away a 2002 as you can get! Just a few months ago I took my daughter camping in the 2002. Don't recall seeing any Boras out camping though, ever!

Nah, not as long as you get it jetted out correctly. The only thing I'd be worried about with the 38 is it bogging if you roll on the throttle too fast. With a small engine and a lot of throttle area, you run the risk of the manifold pressure jumping up to atmospheric too quickly. And with 1 bar on the outside of the throttle plates and 1 bar in the backside of the throttle plates, then no pressure difference to draw out any fuel! Point being, you might just need to go a little bigger than you expect on the accelerator pump jets, but a little gentler on the accelerator pedal!