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AustrianVespaGuy

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Everything posted by AustrianVespaGuy

  1. AustrianVespaGuy
    No I understood that, but if 195/65 is the stock size, 195/60 obviously will fit and is only 3% smaller, which *I* would generally consider close enough to be acceptable, so thought it worth mentioning the availability.
  2. AustrianVespaGuy
    Is 195/60 just too small for you? The Falken Azenis come in two tread flavors in this size and have been working great for me on the 14" Panasport wheels on the '02. . .
  3. AustrianVespaGuy
    Mine does particularly in 3rd gear, but I think it's actually coming from worn out lower bushings rather than anything up by the knob itself.
  4. AustrianVespaGuy
    2002 for the street, 944 for the track, 'nuf said! If you go for the 944, I recommend this plug-n-play ECU for it: https://www.diyautotune.com/product/megasquirtpnp-gen2-p8791-for-87-91-porsche-944-s-s2/
  5. AustrianVespaGuy
    Master can either leak on the inside (piston seal) and come into the pedal box, OR it can leak where the supply and slave feed lines enter it on the outside and then drip straight down onto the floor. My money is still on one of these on the outside.
  6. AustrianVespaGuy
    If no leaks and pumping helps, then likely the seals inside the master cylinder are shot. I think a leak is more likely though, as there a divided section in the reservoir for the clutch so that when it leaks out, you don't lose your brakes also! The brake side of the reservoir will then look 2/3 full, but the clutch portion will be empty. Check the supply line from the reservoir to the MC, that's the most likely.
  7. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'll echo what @AceAndrew said. Go for a tii if you think the old German mechanical fuel injection is super cool (cause it is!) But if the Kugekfischer isn't the thing that floats your boat, the better availability/build ability/tuneability of the base version is probably your better starting point. But regardless, level of rust trumps all else!!!
  8. AustrianVespaGuy
    So yes, i believe that diagram is mislabeled, as i think this starting today is in all manual models too. It also never made much sense to me, as it doesn't really DO anything in the manual as one side of the coil is just grounded instead of going to the shifter interlock; it's just an useless interrupt to the starting circuit. But no, you don't need it, just run the black/white wire straight to the solenoid and avoid this unnecessary extra point of failure.
  9. AustrianVespaGuy
    I vote for this as the correct answer! I've always been glad that the 2002 was offered in so MANY great colors! And while there's a few really great darker colors (Malaga, Jade, Atlantik, Baikal, and Tundra to name a few), I think they work better on the larger E9s, and prefer the brighter tones on the 2002. Mint is my personal favorite, though I admit it was a tough call to pick from the final 3 greens (Mint vs. Turkis vs. Taiga). I also love both Inka and Colorado pretty much equally, and Fjord is my favorite of the blues. And while I like both Golf and Verona just fine, I always thought there was a small gap in the lineup of yellows and reds, with nothing that really 'popped' like Inka there. But yeah, final answer is still Mintgruen!!!
  10. AustrianVespaGuy
    Lookin' great! But don't forget to top up your brake fluid; looking kinda low in there! Also, minor but possibly important side note: which LS1 coils are you running? If they're the D585s (with the heatsink on the butt), be careful that you don't let them dwell too much; they way their over-dwell protection works is that if it goes to long (~5ms), they'll discharge early! Last thing you want as your pulling towards redline is for your timing to start advancing 6 degrees over what you want the timing to be! Oh, and you're not bothering with any idle air control, right?
  11. AustrianVespaGuy
    FWIW, my stock gauge is about 4 o'clock at 175-180, and horizontal/3 o'clock is right at 190 (coolant temp at the sensor in the divider neck).
  12. AustrianVespaGuy
    From a sorta different vantage point, I generally look at things from a 'wear parts' perspective. As in, valve guides and rockers DEFINITELY wear (always sliding and/or against harder parts), whereas keepers, valves, and springs basically DON'T wear (hard and/or non-sliding), and rocker shafts and seats kinda fall in the middle (rotational/soft, but non-sliding). So basically I'd order new guides and rockers going into a head job, and would be prepared to measure and order shafts if needed, and I'd still measure but be surprised if I needed to get new valves/springs/etc. @tech71's post above would catch me off guard regarding the valves to be honest, but maybe that's just been something I'm off-base on then?
  13. AustrianVespaGuy
    I agree with Mike that the alternator circuity is about the only think I'd really be worried about, as just about everything else is fuse protected, and obviously if you ran it later the starter must still be OK and seems like the coil is as well, although that one is probably worth a check for correct winding resistances. Likely killed the 'donor' battery that was used also, though! And have the talk that 'big sparks' /=/ normal!
  14. AustrianVespaGuy
    Also for what reason? You can drop it *far enough* to change a gasket, slip in a windage tray, or even to swap out an oil pump (yup, done it!) without actually removing the oil pan. But if you really need to actually get it out of there to replace, weld in a baffle, access main bearings, etc., then yeah refer to the tricks above.
  15. AustrianVespaGuy
    Read my article on this here for rewiring the headlight relays in a FAR superior way than the goofy BMW electricians of the 60s did!
  16. AustrianVespaGuy
    I'm with Toby in that basically everything looks like it's in plenty good shape to keep using. On the other hand, if you've already got the engine out and torn apart, why not go ahead and replace those bits? It's not easier to put an old part back on than a new one, so for everything that's already off, it's only a question of $, and the sprocket, chain, and guides aren't exactly what I would call pricy bits. Pistons are a bit more costly though, and of course the whole availability thing is another matter. FWIW, when I rebuilt my engine, I changed from a double row to single row chain, primarily because the single row stuff cost half as much as new double row components, so it was easier to swallow the cost for new parts rather than reusing the old ones, which (similar to yours) probably still had a good amount of life left in them.
  17. AustrianVespaGuy
    This sentence is meaningful. It basically narrows things down to 3 options: - You're pumping all of the fluid out through an opening in the system, such as a leak/open bleed nipple somewhere (probably not, as you'd have likely noticed this by now!) - You got air in the system, and all that pressing the pedal is doing is compressing the air and not moving any fluid anywhere. (I think this is the most likely case.) - Your master cylinder seal is shot, and so the MC piston is just sliding back and forth through its bore without 'moving' any fluid anywhere. While possible, if a different (front) wheel still bleeds properly, then it's still more likely it's air.
  18. AustrianVespaGuy
    FYI, if the fan availability or price are an issue for you, i found a 5.2" Spal motorcycle fan that works wonderfully as a replacement, and it's replaceable from the engine side with the heater box installed! Maybe not so pertinent to the OP in this case, but wanted to mention it!
  19. AustrianVespaGuy
    I run an IE 284 regrind and am perfectly happy with it. I assume their new billet ones works have the same profile. Dynos right at 100hp at the wheels with 9.5 pistons and the torque curve isn't so much a curve as it is a flat topped Mesa Granted they ground the cam like 10 years ago, but still doubt that could've really changed THAT much I'm the interim. . .
  20. AustrianVespaGuy
    I have Hagerty and am quite happy with them so far, though (knock on wood) haven't had to go through a claim with them yet! Have the 2002, E39 M5, and Vespa insured with them, agreed values of I think $25k on both cars, 'cherished salvage' rider on the 2002 (don't need to buy it back from them if wrecked, they just pay it and I still keep the car), costs me right at $1000/year. So more like double @BarneyT's 1%, but I'm still happy with it!
  21. AustrianVespaGuy
    If you're OK at idle and 60, then almost for sure NOT anything to do with your fan/shroud. 80 MPH is PLENTY of airflow. Radiator is a possibility, but might also be an issue with gummed up coolant passages in the block and/or air in the system. Also, what's your water/antifreeze ratio (water transfers heat MUCH better than antifreeze!)? Engine is working a LOT harder at 80 vs. 60, so you have a problem with heat transfer somewhere within the coolant loop (but again, I doubt any issue on the convection/airflow side). Block-to-coolant, coolant flow, or coolant-to-radiator are where to look.
  22. AustrianVespaGuy
    Glycerin helps with EVERYTHING where weatherstripping is concerned. . .
  23. AustrianVespaGuy
    I can attest that 37321107991 is readily available and works. We used these back when I was building E70/E71s and I noticed that the BMW drawing for them was dated from ~1970, and a few scrap parts eventually found a second life on my 2002! Interesting anecdote: a few E70s out there have an 'extra' one that was used for a few weeks of production as a temporary protection against a low clearance area between one of the rear brake lines and a weld seam on the rear subframe, until the hard line bending tooling could be adjusted. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-62641-34321107991-genuine-bmw-part/
  24. AustrianVespaGuy
    I had to edit that a little, I think the hood closes pretty tightly over the headlight holes, but there's still some other big ones below the battery tray, where my battery corner trim is missing, and where the bumper mounts pass through.
  25. AustrianVespaGuy
    Damnit @TobyB I'm starting to shop local E46s now. . . they're cheaper than I'd have guessed, tend to have working AC, and no rear subframe issues to worry about, right?!?
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