AustrianVespaGuy

Probably at the firewall; either use the stock 3-way divider or get a pressure regulator with return, and then if you want use one of this nice doodads from IE to feed the carbs: https://www.iemotorsport.com/product/fuel-rail-for-dual-sidedraft-carbs-m10/

On my EFI car I use the steel exterior one for the supply and plastic interior one for the return. Low pressure carb you could use either line for either direction, and then just need the branch to give you the extra fitting for the return line.

Have a want ad up, but if somebody would be willing to provide me with the dimensions I could probably just print it! Opening i can get from the car but I'm less clear on the mounting points/tabs and such. Thanks!

That plastic corner thing that goes in the nose to stop the battery terminal from touching the sheet metal. Anyone got one? Thanks!

Alright, 2002 cooling 101: it's not the size that matters, it's how you use it! I.e. radiator sizing is almost never the bottleneck in the cooling system. The real killer, particularly at idle/in traffic, is actually recirculation. But I'll break the whole thing down for you: - Pump/coolant passages first - gotta get that cool water all around the engine to pick up all that heat. Make sure the pump pumps and the passages are all crudded up! - T-stat - closed, pump only pumps coolant around and around in the engine. Open, and it brings the radiator into play. - Radiator - it's job is to transfer heat from the coolant to the atmosphere. But it's really the airflow over the fins that accomplishes this, and the volume only has to be 'enough' to give the coolant enough thermal contact with the airflow, and if there's not enough airflow, then increasing the coolant volume in there doesn't really help much. And once the coolant is down to the t-stat temperature, cooling further won't get do anything else for you other than start to close the t-stat down again. Obviously a gummed up radiator won't transfer heat very well, but again that's a problem that's independent from volume. - Airflow - obviously this is the biggie! Usually moving at 30+ MPH gives you plenty of airflow, but standing still you need a fan to do the work. Technically, a puller fan (like the stock mechanical one) with a shroud is best, because it pulls air across the entire surface of the radiator. A front pusher (or puller without a shroud) tends to only move air through the circular area covered by the fan. On the other hand, the mechanical fan moves the least amount of air at idle (where the most is needed), and the most air at higher RPM, where it's probably needed least, hence the electric fans being more 'efficient' since they only move the air that's needed, when it's needed. - Recirculation. As I said, probably the biggest gotcha on the cars that no longer have the stock fan/shroud. If you look in your engine bay you'll see these giant passages into the nose through the radiator support. With an electric fan on the radiator but the car standing still, tons of that hot air that just got pushed through the radiator hits the front of the engine, bounces sideways, and then gets sucked through those passages and right back into the fan. Do this for a few minutes and the air the fan is pulling in gets noticeably warmer than ambient. This generally isn't enough to compromise a cooling system that's in good order, but it's still a big hindrance at idle/stationary. The solution is to try to block that recirculation if possible. You can do it either 'inside' by the headlight buckets or 'outside' by putting baffles in the nose to block the sides and forcing the fan to only pull in air from the grill instead. Hopefully that helps you determine and address your lowest hanging cooling fruit! EDIT: It's actually the battery corner and bumper hairs that are worse than the headlight holes, as those are mostly covered by the closed hood.

Having a return fuel loop is a good idea for several reasons. As mentioned, it helps prevent vapor lock when hot by keeping cool fuel circulating, and it also it helps with longevity for both the pump and carbs. With no return, the pump ends up running most of the time against the closed float needle(s). This constant-pressure-but-no-flow stresses both the needle seat, causing it to start leaking sooner, and doesn't do the pump any favors either.

So thanks all for the great responses! I'm still waffling, but currently leaning a *little* more towards just keeping the E30 for now, but still considering. Some of this may sound a bit silly, but I've been zeroing in on what's important for me and well, here's some of the current biggies: - While an E46 WOULD be great, well, I really gotta go for the 25+ year old emissions exemption on this one - Don't want to pay the M tax on this one, however I think that pretty much resigns me to doing subframe reinforcements in any E36 I get, which of course I could do. . . but not terribly excited about that job. - Seats is actually an interesting conundrum from a safety aspect. @bento is right as I absolutely want to use my HANS but I also don't really want to run *just* stock seats, but why in the hell does Schroth say the only fixed backs that are compatible with the QuickFit Pros are the $1200+ Cobra and Recaro seats?!? - That articair is sexy, but doesn't look like it'd work at all on the street without a helmet! Damn I want A/C. . . Oh and all kidding aside, I HAVE tracked the '02 and while it's just fine, I've found the way it's set up is much more conducive to windy mountain roads than *regular* track duty, plus four-fold the expense/difficulty/aggravation of going sideways into a tirewall compared to a beater E30/E36 trackrat!

While not wrong, careful about disparaging RTAs around here! Half of me is still thinking along @Mike Self's lines, though I will point out if I do this, part of the upgrade will for SURE be going from the 2-doors (E30) to 4!

So here's my current dilemma: After a few track events, I decided the 2002 wasn't really the best choice for a track car, so I got an E30 for that job. Stock M20 drivetrain but nicely set up for it, suspension/roll bar/fixed seats/6-point belts/hans/etc. Been great, but here's the thing: I don't have nor want nor have the space for a tow vehicle and trailer, so I've always kept it street-able/legal. 3 point belts still there, no slicks, and so on. But now that I've tracked it for a few years I'm starting to wonder. . . would an E36 maybe make a better street/track car? Would be awfully nice to have REAL air conditioning and since Schroth makes their QuickFit Pro for the E36, I wouldn't need the roll bar for the harnesses anymore and I'd actually be able to USE the backseat! Then there's the little things like better tire size selections, better parts availability, and a little more power. I'd also consider an E46 but think I wouldn't be able to get as good of a track build for the price compared to the E36s. But then again, I already HAVE the E30 and it's still good to go. . . Interested in my FAQ support groups thoughts! Reminder on key points: Can't do both, no tow vehicle, and HPDE only, no door-to-door plans. Thanks!

Really the *only* way for the engine to rev up like that is if it's getting a lot of extra air. This narrows things down to just a few places to check: - Vacuum line leaks - Brake booster/line leak - Throttle plate actuation (such as @'76mintgrün'02 suggested) I don't see an obvious way that the transmission would interact with any of those, but that really is the whole list of possibilities. Maybe check your pedal linkage too?

While the 320/6 was a 'thing,' and they were carbureted, but I don't think that the 6-cyl cars were ever officially imported to the US. So that might make it a slightly interesting grey-market model if that's what it is. And the '83 would for sure be a 1.8L with K-tronic injection, making it a fairly nice candidate for donating a bunch of great stuff to 2002s, particularly the EFI parts, transmission, radiator, and alternator.

Make sure you have small enough chokes in there; for a 284 I think 34mm or even 32mm would be about right. Much bigger and you'll never be able to tune off-idle and cruising throttle settings. Wideband O2 sensor is another great suggestion. And while I can't personally endorse @halboyles linkage, I CAN attest that in general throttle linkage is one of the most frustrating parts of changing any induction setup, and products developed by long-time FAQ members tend to be excellent. . . and now I'm starting to think about switching to ITBs again. . .

Er, I advise AGINST using a dremel for this job, likely to melt that plastic and leave blobs on the edges. Just use a good razor blade; cheaper, easier, and better for this task!

Never bothered trying to add clips on my car, but certainly not going to try to stop another Panasporter! As for the trailing edges, I found what worked best was to use a plain razor blade to cut the trim off at the right angle (e.g. to clear the door trim). Then a chrome paint pen on the cut surface helps hide/blend it in.

^ This, and this is effectively what I meant by making sure you programmed timing matches your actual timing, because you need to make sure of that first, and then move on to tuning your curves. Great that you have a dial-back timing light, as that makes things much easier!

Ok, few things to cover here: 1.) Use a timing light to confirm that the numbers you program in the 123 are what you ACTUALLY see happening at the crank. I.E. 12 degrees at idle is really 12 degrees BTDC at idle. 2.) I don't like how your curve goes to zero ~500 RPM. Keep the idle advance (e.g. 12 deg) flat from idle down. I.E. make points 1 and 2 also 12 degrees. 3.) MAP curve looks weird with that asymptotic jump at 30kpa. Also I expect you idle somewhere around 45ish kpa, so your running rough is likely because you're running 12+10 = 22deg of advance at idle, which is too much. You CAN have 10 deg at low MAP like that, but if you do you'll need to take some of the base advance out of the RPM curve to compensate. Total advance at idle for the M10 likes to be in the 12-16ish range.

I very much respect this point of view, good for you. And while I also think somewhere in the 40s is a reasonable estimate with the current market, I'll still share my opinion to: JUST KEEP IT!

Unless I missed it, have you checked your plug wires? Easier than most would care to admit to get them mixed up and running to the wrong cylinders! Best tool at this point is a timing light, as that will help you make sure you A.) have the correct #1 plug wire, and B.) will give you an idea of the what the timing advance is by looking at the TDC mark vs. the pointer while cranking.

Hmm, that's interesting because all those green wires from the ignition switch should all be hot in run AND start. It's only the purple wires that are hot in acc and run positions but NOT in start. Regardless, running a wire from the starter solenoid will certainly work, and is probably the easiest fix, but I am a bit troubled by the fact that you're not seeing 12v with the key in the start position. I know you said the ignition switch was untouched, but that'd be the first place I'd suggest checking to see if the terminals are at least getting the proper voltages in the correct positions.

Personally I'm a BIG fan of the E21 gasket/shield combo. Granted it subjectively isn't the nicest looking thing, it's cheap, readily available, works well, and doesn't add anything extra to the rusty-hardware tally!

Firstly, big thanks to @ray_ for solving the mystery! Life's a real bitch without the right wiring diagram; anyone know what happened to all those great ones that *were* available on the 2002tii.org site? But to your question @esty, o you don't need any sort of ballast resistor with the blue coil, it has enough internal resistance that it can live with 14v from the battery all day long. So if you run/use a wire that comes from the hot side of the fuse panel (so really straight from the ignition switch) to power the coil, then no you don't need to worry about that relay any more, and can just leave it out entirely if you want. Maybe keep it if you ever think you'll switch back to the stock coil with ballast resistor, but I probably wouldn't!

Ok, so we need to be a tad careful here because sometimes 70's Germans were really clever with their electrics and other times they were really dumb. If it's coming from the positive side of the starter solenoid, then it should go to the positive side of the coil. This is help make sure the coil sees FULL battery voltage (bypassing the original ballast/resistor wire) while cranking. But as your already know they also used black for the negative side of the coil, and from the points to the tach. So. . . black to positive and black to negative. . . yeah this was one of the dumber ones! Again not sure why there's TWO wires either, so double check before plugging in (should only see +12v when cranking, otherwise nothing). My money is on this one, for two reasons. Green/Red is a very 'unusual' color for 2002 wires, which makes me assume it was something added specially for American/California market cars. Secondly, although the green/red is different, everything else about it looks just like the (now long gone) speed relay on my '75's diagram, with the two brown and black terminals on one side, power in the middle, and output(s) on the other side. (This 75 one only drove one silly little valve, with two others driven by 'other' things, but your 72 could easily have had two, both driven by that one relay). I still advocate: Trace it, then Trash it!

Ebay only seems to have near-mint ones for like $75, but I'm after something a little more affordable but don't care if it's actually got some signs of use! Prefer a later one from a squarie!

Short answer is yes, since you're using a blue coil that doesn't need ballast/resistor wire, solid green switched 12v straight from the ignition switch (UN-fused) is exactly what you WANT to power the coil. Real bummer when your whole car doesn't run because some bulb blew a fuse! I'm wondering if the two green connectors aren't for providing power for some more emissions junk; or *possibly* that it's supposed to be on the interior instead? Fuses, coil, and the diagnostic terminal (but that doesn't use a spade connector) are really the only engine bay places that I think solid green should be, though I also agree those terminals look very much original! You're SURE those aren't just the ends that go on the ignition switch?