AustrianVespaGuy

Short answer is no. The reason water/mix is used for coolant is because its ability to transfer heat to/from stuff while flowing (i.e. forced convection) it absolutely tremendous. So recessed or not, if it's in any bit of the coolant flow path it'll be right. Only thing to watch out for is to make sure you don't get a bubble of air trapped up by it, which I supposed could be slightly more likely to happen with the recessed fitting. But the solution here would just be to slightly loosen the sensor while running until a little coolant dribbles out and then snug back up. This will bleed out any trapped air bubbles there and you'll be all set!

If it's both turn signals and brake lights but nothing else, then first check the ground wires/chassis grounds back in the trunk corners. +12V supply is entirely separate for those two systems but they DO share common ground locations, so that's the place to start! Edit: would also suspect reverse lights, tail lights, and fuel level gauge to be acting up in this case, as those also share that same ground location.

Not in a 2002 yet; but in several other cars with ah, poorer visibility. For the 2002 without much center console space, I'd think the best bet would be one of the wireless ones that transmit the image to a small screen built into the rearview mirror. Camera gets powered by the backup lights but you'd need to run something under the windshield gasket and/or headliner to get up to the mirror area.

Ohh, good info, thanks! Will definitely plan to make that modification the next time I have the struts out, which will almost for sure be whenever Bilstein HD strut inserts become available again!

Ugh, so I have to ask: yes but why? Isn't that just a silly reto-looking golfcart? I'll still keep my bicycle for that type of use, thanks.

I didn't actually know about that, but that would indeed be a really excellent upgrade to the system! MAF > MAP > AlphaN > AFM, so that'd basically leapfrog from the bottom of the pack straight up to the top! As for chips, there's a lot out there but I think the majority of them mostly just adjust the ignition advance table but the fueling is a bit limited by the factory narrowband, meaning your either stuck with its feedback or you ignore it and *hope* the fuel table is correct for your engine setup -> Generally fine for a stock engine but again once you've changed stroke and cams around, a bit less sure-fire. Another point where the engine management systems with wideband feedback have an advantage. Full disclosure, I've Megasquirted both my 2002 and E30, meaning I both know my way around EFI conversions and am unashamedly biased!

Well that's certainly a valid point. If you already have it and it works, then no need to sink extra cost unnecessarily! But I still defend my opinion that Jetronic is not great. Ok CIS was worse, but the Jet still uses the big dumb AFM 'flapper' in the airstream to try to measure intake oxygen, which suffers from being rather inaccurate, slow to respond to actual engine load, and non-adjustable. This would be my biggest concern with trying to match the system with a larger stroke 2.0L build especially in combination with better pistons/cams; the electrical response from the AFM is very non-linear so if you increase the airflow much beyond the level for which it was designed, the ECU may or may not be able to interpret/fuel things appropriately anymore. Though I suppose it's easy enough to try and see! And if you make a really hot motor, then it might also be possible to use the larger AFM from the 325i.

Don't some (most/all?) of the 1.8L heads have the fuel injector ports directly in the head, rather than in the manifold? Something to at least double check/keep in mind. Also - not going to pull punches here - if you're going to bother going through the effort of fuel injecting a car, just skip right over the all the Jetronic systems. They're really a pretty crappy implementation of EFI. Learn a little bit and go with Megasquirt or Haltech or something else similarly modern/effective/tune-able/simple/meant for this type of classic upgrade.

Just to be super clear, there are 3 things on the dashboard that need to 'work' in order to get cabin heat: 1.) Blower motor, upper RH slider. Sounds like this is fine in this case, so check. 2.) Coolant valve, lower RH slider. This bowden cable opens/closes the coolant valve that controls the flow of engine coolant through the heater core. Make sure it slides freely and the valve in the 'valley' between the firewall and the engine bay operates. 3.) Heater box air flaps, lower LH side (/Defrost flaps on upper slider). Sounds like it's this one that you're having problems with, but make sure to check both the slider side and the flaps side of things down at the heater box. I think both can bind up/quit working in various ways!

Not sure your level or restoration purity goals, but on my car I found that some of the larger zip ties are conveniently sized so that the strap will fit through the body holes but the head is large enough not to!

I'd suggest you get a couple of the 34321107991 dual-line clips. They've been used on basically every BMW from the dawn of Bavarian time and I think still are today. Clips nicely to the brake lines and if you only need it on one line then you can utilize the other 'half' for formulating the mounting solution to the arm/body/etc. Hell back in the E70 days we even used them in production briefly as a band-aid to protect a rear line from a lower-than-desired-clearance condition from a weld seam on the rear subframe. I had to pull the drawing for the clip to make sure it was thick enough in all directions to work for this until we would get the lines re-routed and I remember noticing that the latest drawing revision for the clip had been signed off on back in 1962! https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-spacer-holder-34321107991#fitment

Yeah I agree, one can only design around nominal condition plus some tolerance; but you can't really design OR tolerance for out-of-spec parts, that's not how things work. And I want to be clear that I in no way want to insinuate that there is anything *wrong* with the IE camber plate design, rather I only want provide feedback from the field that the tolerance band *may* be a bit on the narrow side. IE can decide whether this is true enough to warrant any changes to the design/tolerances or not. I fully understand there are challenges involved with changing any part that is already in production, and it may not necessarily be worth the cost to do so. But now they have a few data points from me and @Jae to include in that evaluation. Regardless of any potential changes to future parts, this is (hopefully) also useful information for anyone else with existing/current camber plate parts that, should they run into this issue, can help them diagnose and correct it. To help illustrate, I've drawn some lines on my original picture in order to better show the clearances available. This is with both the bearing grease cap washer and new stock spacer washer installed, so presumably a nominal/flat spring perch would also sit right along the red line: This leaves a *little* space to the top of the nylock nuts but not very much. The distance to the top of thinner jam nuts is more like 3x that. If I recall, the heads on the original pressed-in top mount studs were similar-or-perhaps-just-slightly-thinner than the jam nuts are, meaning the jam nuts return things to a closer-to-stock like clearance. Hope this helps clarify things for everyone!

How bad is it? My honest opinion is that even 100% perfectly rebuilt with new viton valve stem seal M10 heads still ALL pull some oil by the valves and burn a little on overrun. . . I suppose even with good compression you may very well be burning oil past the rings however I'd maintain that smoking on decel is the CLASSIC valve stem leak while rings is usually more prevalent with engine load during acceleration.

While it's not really 'dented,' the shape of the spring perch does indeed play a role here. The contact on mine was really only between one of the nuts and the 'highest' portion of the spring perch (near where the very end of the coil spring is) where it has a bit of a bump. In any case, I believe that most of the relative motion comes from the elasticity of the rubber bushing inside the top mount bearing that allows for some 'tipping' between the parts. Are there slightly shorter studs/lock nuts that you could supply with the camber plates? If you could reduce everything just by the thickness of the nylon insert in the end of the lock nut, it ought to be enough to prevent this issue I'm pretty sure.

Pull the dust cover off and check at the very top of the piston shaft. At least that's where a pair of old Bilstein Sports I had sported their part number stampings:

If you DO go for LEDs (which is fine) just be sure to replace the whole housing/reflector assemblies to ones designed to work with the led 'bulbs.' If you just throw 'H4 LED bulbs' in the original reflectors, you'll end up sending a lot of the light into other drivers eyes instead of down the road where you want it.

Read, understand, and then Nike it! (Aka, Just Do It!) https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles/technical-articles/electrical-and-ignition/headlight-and-fogdriving-light-wiring-upgrades-r340/

While I don't want to detract from how genuinely excellent The F20 transmission is (because it is absolutely that fantastic), I think you're selling the Getrags a little short. Firstly, you need to keep things apples-to-apples, as *most* of those Honda boxes are significantly newer/less worn that *most* of the Getrag boxes we're talking about. But a freshly rebuilt one I think is also so spectacularly good, that it mostly comes down to matter of preference. The major difference is that the Fs have a significantly shorter throw than the Gs. So if you like REALLY short shifts, yeah you'll like the Fs better. It's like finger-flick short: click-click. But I personally don't mind the longer throw that Getrags have, particularly because (to me at least) it gives a more deliberate feel and also 'softens' the whole process a bit; resulting in a more wristy snick-snick feel. You still get that extra 6th speed with the F though; so I'd say that's another clear advantage! Also, I must admit @chargin, that F20c engine fits REALLY nicely in that engine bay, well done!

Combination customer feedback for @Ireland Engineering/PSA for others that may have come across this issue. After installing my fixed camber plates, I was plagued with a bit of metal-on-metal clunking while driving. Turned out to be the studs/nuts on the camber plate that come down through the top mount bearing we just a tad long and banged against the upper spring perch. Adding and additional washer on top of the spring perch would *probably* be a just fine fix, but I decided to address the root of the problem instead. A quick trip to Ace/True Value turned up the right size M8x1.25 jam nuts and those (installed with a little loctite) and then cutting down the ends of the studs gained the correct necessary clearance! Too long: Jam nuts to the rescue! Studs cut down and clearance obtained!

Wow @calw, thanks for all that additional independent testing and validation!!! Great place, this FAQ!

Pop the cluster out and I think it's an 8mm headed bolt that just screws into the back of it.

Thanks @ray_, and sorry! Also squoze probably isn't a real word either, but oh well. . . ? Finally found the picture for you! A little over 1/4" clearance now I'd estimate, though the SS geometry is still a bit different than your IE setup, so will need to 'season to taste' as they say.

I actually had this problem with my Supersprint headers, so I promise you're not alone! I first tried dimpling them in the right spot (just squoze it in a vice a bit to oval out that area) which gained me enough clearance to get it to 'fit,' but it still banged around a bit during certain situations/loads. I then put in either a 1/8" or 3/16" shim on top of the engine mount and that REALLY fixed things. Now zero problems! So good luck with it, but I'm confident you won't let this stop you now!

Esty here on the FAQ for carpets and I think Aardvark racing does new door panels. Not sure on seat covers but I'll bet somebody will chime in on that!

I don't think *all* of these are 2002 parts. 7 looks like a much more modern-style bracket with those plastic clips designed to hold hoses/electrical cables, but I don't think I can name a single thing like that on the 2002; afaik the harness only ever attaches to clips on the actual body. 5 looks like a trunk latch, but with a cable running to it that means remote activation; something else that was at least never stock on 2002s. 6 looks like a non-2002 hood latch. 4 & 8 both look like non-2002 exhaust manifold heat shields. 12 I *think* I recognize as some sort of support in the vicinity of the steering column (what that little curved cutout is for) though I can't recall exactly where or even which car.