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Introducing FAQ Memberships 04/17/2017
I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested. Everyone starts as a Solex Member. This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150). Kugelfischer membership. As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers. Turbo Membership. As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener. Alpina Membership. As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store. There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.
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JerryC
Kugelfischer-
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Rob HM Siegel will have some great material for a sequel after this! Press on regardless, Pierce.
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Road trip envy, sounds like fun! You could always just get one of these after you pick the car up, save a checked heavy bag charge: https://www.harborfreight.com/130-pc-tool-set-with-case-63091.html How are you going from San Jose area to SB - 101, or 25? I'd go from Gilroy via 25, Peach Tree and Indian Valley Roads to Paso Robles, if you trust the car enough. 101's boring along that stretch, and there's almost no place to stop. It's all veggie farms and oil fields until you get back to Highway 1. No AC, - you may find yourself wanting to drive in the dark to dodge some heat. With all the induction/injection/ignition mods, I think you may want a long list of friendly shops, and maybe plan your route to pass near a number of them. AAA card for sure. Do you have enough time and funds to truck the car and get yourselves back home if necessary? I'm, personally, rather leery of modified engine systems after the experiences I've had with my tii. Hopefully, it will sort out without much drama. I've been 3/3 on needing to replace center driveshaft bearings on '02s shortly after purchasing them (3 '02s, 3 CDBs within 6 months). It's not hard to swap with the right box end wrench and a pipe wrench, but you may want to bring a spare. That part may not be readily available at O'Reilly's.
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The paint and interior are part of your car's legacy, they're part of the car's story. It's just right, everything you've done Esty is tasteful and applied with care and craftsmanship. You'll find a good buyer for it the way it is who'll appreciate the care your '02 has received over the last 39 years.
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+1 for safety wire. I've extended that usage to the three or four tabs that are normally clipped together to hold the lower edge of the heater box housing halves together. I wrap a piece of wire around both tabs, and use the twist method (a la Spanish windlass) to tighten the tabs together. As anyone who has disassembled the heater probably noticed, those clips get quite rusty and usually break.
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No photo, but the motor bracket attaches to the bottom of the washer canister.
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I found that to remove the slave cylinder from the G245-5 transmission without dropping the transmission required 10 - 12" of 3/8 drive extensions plus the universal extension and the deep 13mm (not totally certain about size) socket. It is not a straight shot threading the socket between the tunnel and the transmission for slave replacement, I needed to make a slight bend to engage the upper bolt. The lower bolt is relatively accessible. Add brake system pressure bleeder plus suitable brake fluid capture container to the lists, too.
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Maybe I'm missing something, but I didn't hear anything all that unusual in the video. If you think it's linked to whatever you did to the oil pump, check the oil pressure at the sender. If you think it's in the valve train, check the valve lash and go from there. And, don't rule out an exhaust manifold gasket leak.
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+2, 3, and 4 for JB Weld. It's the quickest way to plug leaky motorcycle tanks. I also used it to stop an oily porosity leak on a Yamaha cylinder head. I used it about 8 years ago on my son's dirt bike to repair the float pin bracket inside the carb, and opened it up last year to see how it was doing. Looked like the day I put it together, so JB Weld is a go. Plus, JB Weld says it's good to go.
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You'll want to reinforce the cross member where the left engine mount attaches. Ireland Engineering sells a precut and formed steel part for $20 last time I checked, or search the archives for some other method. This subframe piece is going to crack sooner or later, if it hasn't already. By the way, did BMW ever make a design change to the subframe when this well-known issue started to appear more than just a few times? I've never heard of an early or late version front subframe, so right now I would say that BMW probably did nothing in this area.
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Check the crankshaft drive pulley bolt. I had one loosen up once that made a funny, sort of intermittent knock sound like that. It could ruin your crankshaft key slot, so don't let it go if that's it. Edit: I found mine by grabbing the fan and turning it. The crank pulley moved back and forth with a clunk.
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Since you have a growing collection of broken distributor caps, use a hack saw to cut a wide "viewing port" into one of the junked parts, or even cut one in half. Set the "test cap" on the distributor and the interference problems should become a lot clearer after you can see inside the half-cap.
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+1; I removed all the pins from a tumbler on one of my '02s (it's still on the road, wouldn't want to give this away... ;-D). Afterward, any key, even a screwdriver, would actuate the key switch. Who would know?
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I like how you protect it from parking lot damage by parking well away from all the other vehicles. Sounds like a fun project. Bet it'll go like stink.
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Yep, put a clamp around it to shrink it so the bolts can go in. All the guibos I've purchased came with a steel strap wrapped around them to allow easy assembly. I'd cut the strap off after the bolts were all tightened. Is this still the normal configuration on new guibos?
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Cool. Only 24 cars later than mine. Did my 2761401 just jump a bunch in value for being close to that one?
