JerryC

It's a free download, I was able to "purchase" it as a guest from IE's web site. I attached it, maybe you can access the file from here. 2002 5 speed shift plate.pdf

There seems to be a link to installation instructions on the IE shift kit web page, it requires login and checkout and such, so I didn't try it myself. Look for " You can download your instructions here." at the bottom of the web page: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/item/025spplate.html

Or is the starter solenoid getting stuck due to the cold?

Harbor Freight will sell you a plastic welding kit, they have a few to choose from.

Can't be any worse than this one: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/d/1956-porsche-356a-rusted-out/6536734825.html Title of an old Porsche worth $5300? My Porsche-loving coworker says it is.

Also, if the cloth-covered fuel lines in the trunk are still there, they most likely allow air to leak into the fuel line which breaks the fuel pump's suction. Search for "trunk fuel smell" or something like that. It has been discussed many times.

The voltage regulator mounting screw is one of the key grounds that needs to be reliably made for proper instrument and turn signal function. The regulator is mounted by the factory to the inner left side fender with a single sheet metal screw. When the screw hole gets rusty, bad grounds happen. What I've done on all 3 of my '02s is replace the sheet metal screw with a machine screw, nut, and star washers, plus clean off all rust around the hole. After tightening the screw, apply your favorite moisture barrier. I think I used some primer followed by enamel paint close to the body color. This simple fix, along with ensuring turn signal lamp holders and instruments are well grounded, will go a long way toward settling the gauges down. It may even help with the charging problem.

This sounds a lot like early symptoms of pedal box problems I once had with my tii. You need to figure this out, it could result in a stuck (open!) throttle linkage. Luckily, mine gradually closed on its own, but it was a little exciting... Check the gas pedal rod that protrudes from the floor board for free movement. The pedal rod shaft that goes through the pedal box into the trans tunnel can build up rust and cause the shaft to bind. This was the problem I was having, and it lead to a pedal box rebuild. You can disconnect the vertical shaft at the upper firewall linkage joint to somewhat isolate the pedal shaft from the rest.

Early style hub caps (goes with early style trim). Steering boxes are getting harder to find.

I recollect that both my (now moved on) '68 and '71 1600s had those metal inserts inside the plastic visor clip. The plastic had started cracking on both. I haven't checked the '72, something to look into maybe.

It hasn't been mentioned here for a few days, but one more vote for restoring the Manila paint color. Here's a '68 1600 that I regrettably sold about 20 years ago, the following owners have been quite kind to it: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-bmw-1600/ It did have the original brown seats when I sold it, but they were showing a lot of wear even then. Jerry

I pulled up the carpet, but was not able to see into the pedal box, just the sliver of space between where the pedals move. Horse hair I believe would be in original seats, and this car had new Recaros installed about a year ago. Also, there is no smell when I just sit in the car, only when it is moving. M5280RCR, The rubbery stuff between the pedal arms is a removable insert that keeps the carpet from falling into the pedal box. You should be able to gain full access to the box interior, at least well enough to remove rodent carcasses. See #19: Just gently lift the rubber "sound absorber", remembering to be gentle with the 45 year old brittle polymers. It's a good time to replace that part, too. Realoem shows they're still available for $27.

I'm a California native, but also lived in Dayton, Ohio, for 12 years. Every time someone asked me if I was happy to be away from all the earthquakes, I'd reply, "First time I see a tornado, I'm going back to my earthquakes!" I never came closer than about 10 miles to an active tornado in 12 years, but I did miss the Loma Prieta quake. Tomorrow's winter forecast here in NorCal is partly sunny, high of 61. Liking it, and I have full respect for those who are tough (or stubborn?) enough to take midwest winters. They're not for me.

A photo of the battery top would resolve voltage questions, 6 caps = 12V, 3 caps = 6V. Also, I used to own a '68 Manila 1600 with a dark brown interior, I think it's the same interior color as yours. Definitely email the VIN to BMW, they can provide the original paint color.

Do the brake shoes have the same radius as the drums? Also, is the parking brake cable completely disengaged? Take more pictures from various angles. In your latest photo with the red and green highlights, the left end of the fork doesn't look right to me, but I haven't been inside one of these for years so more input from others would be good. One more thing, is the axle nut cotter pin missing? I don't see it in the photo.