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    • steve k.

      Introducing FAQ Memberships   04/17/2017

      I would like to introduce everyone to the FAQ memberships. A fun way to fund the site and to contribute for those who are interested.    Everyone starts as a Solex Member.  This membership is free and not much visible is changing (I limited the personal message storage to 150).   Kugelfischer membership.  As a reward for your donation of $20.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers.   Turbo Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $50.02, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers and a Bottle Opener.   Alpina Membership.  As a reward for your donation of $100.02 per year, you will not see any external advertisements, the site will look cleaner and run a bit faster.  You will also get unlimited Personal Message storage, ability to create Private and Restricted Photo Albums, and an ability to upload Movies to the gallery. You will also get a couple of BMW 2002 FAQ Stickers, a Bottle Opener, and discounts on our accessories at the store.   There is also a fancy title that comes with each membership.  

JerryC

Kugelfischer
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About JerryC

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  • Location Santa Rosa, CA

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  1. Annoying whistling sound at speed

    I believe Mr. Mike Self would suggest applying blue masking tape to various potential whistle sound sources (one or two at a time) until the whistle goes away to isolate the sound source. Use the tape to temporarily block air flow over suspect sound sources, such as trim gaps, windshield gasket edges, and so forth. Once you've found the source, making the noise go away is likely to be fairly easy.
  2. I've never had any work done at the dealer, but they've been quite helpful (in the past before realoem.com existed) with identifying and sourcing obscure parts. The plastic master cylinder hose fittings come to mind, as well as various trim clips, etc.
  3. Fan switch position

    Just for reference, '72tii 2761401 delivered early April, 1972 came equipped with the threaded C pillar mounts for rear 3pt belts. I installed the belts myself, and was quite pleased to find the mounts already there. The fan switch in my car is mounted in the instrument cluster. Jerry
  4. No one has mentioned the vent air plenum hood seals at the base of the windshield. If there's enough blow-by in the engine compartment and those seals are leaky, it could smell like exhaust coming through the plenum. With the windows closed, less air is drawn into the cabin through the heater box. Just a thought.+
  5. Or engine ...Or engine/transmission/diff mount(s). Engine mount can be checked by pulling the valve cover toward the passenger side fender. If it moves, bad...
  6. Could the injection pump pulley be 180° out of timing with the ignition? I've read elsewhere that the car will run in this state, but not very well.
  7. Chrome glove box?

    I have a vague recollection that imported cars were given an extra year to implement some of the new Federal regulations. I remember thinking it was a bit unfair to the domestic car makers at the time, but I was a teenager then so most everything seemed pretty screwed up to me.
  8. What is the function of this arm/mount?

    I had a '68 1600-2 (California car), and it was equipped with a smog pump, gulp valve, and all that stuff.
  9. For degreasing an empty engine bay, would lots of Simple Green applied with a stiff parts brush followed with a power rinse using an electric power washer do the trick? Seems like it would be pretty clean afterwards.
  10. Where do I put collant?

    You can add coolant without opening the hot radiator. You get a visual indication of coolant level without opening the radiator. It adds reserve coolant in the event a leak occurs, the radiator stays full until the reservoir is empty. If you trap air in a hose during refill, there is reserve coolant to make it up when the engine cools. - Just a few advantages off the top of my head, I'm sure others can add to the list. By the way, what radiator cap would one use with a brass '02 radiator plus a reservoir? The cap would need to be sealed to the top lip of the radiator filler neck, and stock '02 caps aren't sealed that way.
  11. Heater Box Rebuild - Rivets

    Or, countersink the holes and use flat head screws. There are several online sources for metric screws, and Ace Hardware seems to have a decent selection.
  12. #1. Fix this one first, you'll love the car a lot more if it runs well. I suggest you go through the entire fuel supply system, starting with flushing the fuel tank, replacing all the soft fuel supply parts in the trunk area including the plastic sleave at the sender connection (search for it, it's been discussed a number of times), the fuel sender seal ring, etc. If there is any fuel smell in the trunk, it's a sign of cracked fuel lines near the fuel tank. If lines are cracked before the fuel pump, they allow air to enter the lines which displaces fuel. The pump can't suck fuel if it's sucking air. After that, look up front. Is fuel pooling in the intake under the carb? May need a carb rebuild. #2. Make sure it's actually overheating. 2002 temp gauge can get erratic due to electrical ground problems. When the gauge shows hot, check under the hood. If the hoses are so hot you can't stand to touch them briefly, then there probably is a cooling problem. If the hoses are warm/hot but "touchable", it could be the gauge. #5, #7. Maybe these two are related. Are the springs seated properly? It looks like you have lowered the car. When the car is jacked up, the springs will most likely be completely loose from the perches. When you drop the car back down, the springs may miss the perches. If one spring is caught "weirdly", it could raise one corner. #6. Ditto on exhaust touching chassis someplace where it isn't supposed to.
  13. Heater Box Rebuild - Rivets

    +1 on aluminum rivets with backing washers. I did see a stress crack develop on the first box I rebuilt without washers. I drilled the rivet out and added the washers and there were no other problems. If it is your first heater box rebuild, it's pretty likely something will cause you to take it back out before too long. The problem I found was when the self-stick foam gaskets on the doors came unstuck and blew out of the box. 3M weatherstrip adhesive and bare foam gaskets solved that. It's also quite easy to assembly the flap linkages in such a way that they collided inside the box, so test all functions before installing it in the car. Also, I used stainless tie wire to replace the rusted out clips on the bottom joint. Just wrap the wire around both tabs and twist the tabs together. Trim neatly, the tabs do hang down underneath and sharp wires are just waiting for a hand to snag.
  14. Do I need to replace from races?

    I'll add my mechanical engineering $.02 to this: the bearing race is the part of the bearing assembly that wears first due to fatigue, i.e., it will fail eventually due to number of cycles, which is proportional to mileage. Good lubrication extends the life cycle, but miles will catch up eventually. Replacing the races resets the counter. Old races may look "new", but they're well down the life cycle curve and should always be replaced with the whole bearing.
  15. We have a MAP!!

    I cleared cache, cookies, etc, logged back onto faq, and still no bueno with Chrome.