JerryC

Members
  • Content count

    678
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

37 Excellent

1 Follower

About JerryC

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender Male
  • Location Santa Rosa, CA

Recent Profile Visitors

817 profile views
  1. +2 on not removing the dash from an early '02 for heater box removal. I've removed heater boxes from 3 different early '02s, a '68, a '71, and a '72, and they were all the same. (to the best of my recollection, it's been a while...). The cables will indeed come off of the control handles, even the doubled-up one for air and hot water control, without removing the control levers. I used a very thin flat-blade screwdriver by "twisting" it after it was wedged between the lever and the spring, to pop the wound-up cable end off of the control lever attachment post. It gets easier after it's removed once (now why would I know this?), the first removal must stretch the wire a tiny bit or something. Needle nose pliers are all that's needed to reinstall the cables, but press on the winding, not the straight part of the cable. On the '71 only (the first one I operated on), I believe that once the cables were off, I actually did remove the control levers. However, you probably don't need to remove the levers so leave 'em where they are, unless something's wrong with the levers themselves. Nuts are either 6mm or 8mm. I agree that removing the seats makes it much easier to remove the heater box. I'd try it first by removing only the passenger seat. Once you're under there, do everything in one go because if you're anywhere near my age, getting comfortable under the dash or the chassis could cause a nap. The worst part of the whole procedure is extracting this aging body of mine back out of the car!
  2. I've called IE to ask about some simple thing, and the resulting conversation was a classroom in '02s. Based on my experience, if Jeff Ireland answers, be ready for a long discussion about '02s. He loves 'em.
  3. All this dash discussion now has me wondering - what have I got on my dash? This is in a '72 tii with a one-piece dash that was fitted sometime after '72, but before it came to me in '97. It's a fairly soft rubbery material. The wires pass through what would have been the dash clock hole. I believe I've seen this mount on other '02s, but it's been quite a while since I've made it to any meetups. I think there's a version that will hold 3 gauges, as well. I do recollect that I fitted ABS plumbing parts around the VDO gauges to adapt them to the mount. I bought the gauges and put them into this existing mount. The gauges that came with the car fit into the mount, but they did not work. Nothing is holding the gauges into the mount except friction between the adapter piece and the mount. The mount just sits on the dash, wedged between the upper dash lip and the front of the dash "tray".
  4. SLS (Selective Laser Sintering) in nylon is the best process I've used for a functional part like this one. I've used SLS, SLA, and FDM in my job, but keep coming back to SLS for functionality and accuracy. It will be made of real nylon, and the details will come out pretty well. Nylon is probably what BMW had it made from, originally. SLA resin is not stable over time, let's just say it's good for visual samples, and that's about all. FDM will probably make a part this size into somewhat of a blob. I've heard it's getting better, so look around at different vendors. A couple places to get this done in SLS are: https://express.stratasysdirect.com/quote.aspx?productID=4 https://www.protolabs.com/3d-printing/ You may run into problems due to the small part size. Model the part as several pieces, connected together with runners, to reach the minimum size requirement. You cut them apart when your receive them. This little trick can save you some money, too. Have it quoted in CNC also. Then there are no accuracy or durability concerns, it's a real part. Both Stratasys and Proto Labs will quote it. Again, it may be too small. Try Fathom in Oakland, CA also. They'll help you figure out the most economical way to make this.
  5. Minor hijack here. Ireland sells (but are currently out of stock) both 90mm E12 pistons and 90mm E21 pistons. Are E21 pistons the same as 121 pistons? I don't know what an E21 is, actually. - Never mind, wikipedia answered this one.
  6. Very nice tii Noel. I think conserv Steve and others have stated before that US model year production begins in September of the prior year, which explains why your 12/'71 build date equals a '72 model year. For the tune up, I haven't seen a compression test suggested. Your engine is probably barely broken in after the rebuild, but it would be nice to know that nothing is amiss with the basic engine. Many searches ago, it was written here somewhere that a proper tune up goes like: basics - compression, oil, air filter, etc. mechanical - valve adjust ignition - timing at all speeds, distributor condition, spark, etc. fuel control - start fussing with the fuel injection after all the above are sorted out. Good luck with it!
  7. Perhaps a hair-brained thought, but is there a Rustoleum red match for the fan? That chamonix with some red highlights (acorn nuts, fuel pump spacer....) might look pretty good. Go faster, too.
  8. Sun roof? If so, check the drain tubes.
  9. Expansion tank is reputedly a noise reducer. If the original pump still works and you decide to keep using it, there may be more pump noise than usual. Changing to a 5-series pump most likely makes the problem go away, as far as I can tell. 5-series is a more developed design (i.e., newer). There's no telling why a filter was jury-rigged in place of the expansion tank. Where I live, the county has a waste disposal facility adjacent to the main dump facility for household chemicals, and they take old gasoline. There is an annual limit to how much stuff one can dump there. Actually, they take almost anything.
  10. Can't see much in those photos, but I'd bet there is a lot going on under that cheap paint job. As previously stated, keep looking. Your money will go farther if you find and purchase a nearly rust-free body, even with bad paint (but hiding nothing) with bad mechanicals than it will on that one. Engine and drivetrain are relatively easy to fix compared to a rusty body, unless you have the skills and like to do body work surgery. If you can fix the rusty stuff yourself, you'll save a bunch of money on body repairs.
  11. I'm digging deep into the gray matter here, and Rob Torres could definitively answer this. IIRC, the resin, or molded, IP drive wheels were sold by BMW as a replacement part for many years. Rob told me that they actually outlast the aluminum version. I also sort of recall that the later tiis came equipped with plastic wheels, but that may be way off. Somewhere around 10 - 15 years ago, everyone ran out of new tii IP drive wheels, both metal and plastic, and they became difficult to find until relatively recently. Someone's making and selling them again, perhaps it's even BMW. Hmm, just checked ebay. New aluminum IP wheels there go for $200. Is anyone here ebay person 2k2tii?
  12. If you already know how the trunk works, please don't be irritated. I discovered this when my kids' friends tried to open the trunk - they couldn't figure out how it worked on their own because all new cars have had key-release trunk latches for the last 30 - 40 years. The '02 trunk latch doesn't work like modern cars. The trunk key only unlocks the trunk lock, it doesn't open the trunk. To open the trunk, turn the key clockwise a full half-turn in the lock first, then push the button to unlatch the trunk. For a guy like me approaching thinking about retirement, this is common knowledge. For people who grew up with only 1980 and newer cars, it's not so common. Also, a trick for loosening '02 door lock mechanisms is to remove the upper-most screw from the latch in the door, then spray your favorite penetrating type oil in that hole. It will get into the lock mechanism from the inside and free it up, for a while. The only way to really free it up for a long time is to take it all apart, clean everything, and apply fresh lube. Repeat every few years. By the way, nice looking car! Welcome to the club.
  13. Jerry Fairchild serviced my injection pump and tested the injectors two years ago. I haven't yet installed it, the rest of the engine still needs work. I have never been satisfied with the performance of my tii, so I had the pump and injectors tested and calibrated. It also leaked, so all the seals were replaced. I degreased the pump myself before sending it, and it came back looking pretty much the same, but cleaner. The oxidation and permanent discoloration are still there, but it now looks like it came out of a 45 year old regularly-driven, well-cared-for engine. You won't get the replated parts that the more costly shops provide. The pump and injectors were returned to me in about 4 weeks with test results graphs and some notes. The entire process was easy and confidence inspiring. Jerry answered all my questions, phone communication seems to be best with him.
  14. The exhaust pipe expands enough when warmed up to move the muffler significantly. Ask me how I know. Does "occasionally stops for a few seconds" have anything to do with going down or up hills, around turns, over bumps or dips, etc? Just throwing some ideas out there. Maybe it's just your dried up CSB complaining more than it did before. I've had 3 '02s in my life time, and they mostly sat around before I got them. All three of them went through a CSB shortly after I purchased them, and they all 3 sounded different.
  15. Just goes to show that every one of these cars is a little different after all the years of POs, repairs, and modifcations. Blocking the heater hoses made no difference to my tii, and I drove it all summer like that. I have a 3-row radiator, maybe that was the difference for my situation. And jimk, I too welcomed having the air flow back after reinstalling the heater box. It was nice to be able to drive with all the windows closed to keep the air from blowing on my head.