JerryC

I have a center grill that would match those pretty well, hmm...

Tillman's is in Santa Rosa. Looks like this one flew south.

Back in the '70s, there were numerous electronic components that had limited shelf life, thus NOS electronics may not work as expected due to components not withstanding storage environment over the long haul. Certain types of laminated capacitors, selenium rectifiers, parts with plastic materials in them, and probably others I've not heard of were prone to early failure in normal use, much less decades of neglectful storage. NASA and other groups studied electronics thermal fatigue in the '70s, must have been a thing back then.

I've had a couple cracked heads welded up, but not for '02. One held up fine for several years in Fiat, the other died within a few years in a Sunbeam. They were both pushrod engines. However, I'm also curious about how you are getting cast pistons for your engine. Where did you find them? Are they stock, HC, oversize, standard, or what? I'd like to find some myself.

RE: I found some history on my car here, it will give you the smog check history available on your car, I was able to track mine back to 1997. Smog checks started in 84 which leads me to believe my car came from out of state, albeit a dry one because even though I got in sad shape it had almost no rust, https://www.bar.ca.gov/pubwebquery/vehicle/pubtstqry.aspx I searched my car's VIN, and I'm highly certain it is a California-only car. There are two smog tests from 1997, the year I purchased it from a local long-term owner. 1997 may be as far back as the records at that website go.

+1 for no spacers.

Welcome to the faq. You've come to the right place, lots of answers here. Maybe I can help with one here. 1. The hard steel line is used as the pressure fuel line on tii's only. Standard '02's fuel is supplied through the plastic line that runs through the cabin, and the steel line is the return or overflow line. 2. When in RealOEM.com, select the "Classic" catalog button on the left to get to the 2002 sections.

M10 engine ID number is on the same flat surface that the cylinder head bolts onto, directly above the starter adjacent to the transmission. By wiping away excess grunge, then squinting and craning your neck while looking down into the gap "circled" in yellow in the photo, you should be able to locate the engine ID number. This isn't my car, mine is real easy to read right now because there's no cylinder head. Drive line vibration is possibly a guibo (flex joint at transmission output), u-joint, lack of transmission exhaust bracket, exhaust rubbing on something, center driveshaft bearing, transmission output bearing, or combinations of any of the above. Cracked guibo is highly likely, and is fairly easy to repair.

1) No clock dash came from a non-tii. 2) Fuel pump blocked off is for a carb'd M10, and it could still have a tii block. VIN is on the block right above the starter. 3) - 6) Check BAT and ebay, lots of fairly well documented '02s have sold in the last couple years through those venues.

Here in north CA, a smog tech informed me that they only dyno and sniff OBD1 vehicles and earlier (back to '76). OBD2 vehicles store historical data, so they get a computer check and a fairly quick visual check only. The test device downloads stored data from the vehicle that the computer software analyzes for uncorrected faults. The vehicle didn't even need to be running during the test. Quick and relatively painless, unless something's wrong I suppose.

I think the actual year makes a difference regarding wiper motors, is your's a '70 or '73?. On my '68, the wiper park switch mechanism was inside the wiper motor. The wipers would not park because the park switch contacts inside the wiper motor had worn to a point where the contact finger springs had shorted to the motor shaft. I was able to rebend the springs so they no longer touched anything and get the motor working normally again. If I recall correctly, extracting the wiper drive motor from the plenum was a bit tricky. I don't think I had to remove the heater box to get the fan out of the way. I don't recall the details of extracting the motor, I just recall that it took some head scratching and much peering down inside the plenum to see where everything was going.

Most parts stores will test an alternator at no charge. They mount it to a motor-driven test stand and some electronic wizardry gives the answer in minutes. I've brought a couple alternators in, one which I was certain was bad due to overheating bearings, and they both proved to be kaput.

I used to make that drive from Morro Bay to Santa Cruz a dozen times a year, but it was almost 40 years ago. The man-made stuff has most likely changed, but 2 parks I really enjoyed are: Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park: Look for highway turnouts near the entrance and walk to the cliff tops for spectacular tide pools and a waterfall or two. There is one that is a good view from beside the road, but you have to find it. Pfeiffer Beach: You may get to see some humpback whales broaching and jumping off the point there. Have a great trip.