JerryC

You can add coolant without opening the hot radiator. You get a visual indication of coolant level without opening the radiator. It adds reserve coolant in the event a leak occurs, the radiator stays full until the reservoir is empty. If you trap air in a hose during refill, there is reserve coolant to make it up when the engine cools. - Just a few advantages off the top of my head, I'm sure others can add to the list. By the way, what radiator cap would one use with a brass '02 radiator plus a reservoir? The cap would need to be sealed to the top lip of the radiator filler neck, and stock '02 caps aren't sealed that way.

Or, countersink the holes and use flat head screws. There are several online sources for metric screws, and Ace Hardware seems to have a decent selection.

#1. Fix this one first, you'll love the car a lot more if it runs well. I suggest you go through the entire fuel supply system, starting with flushing the fuel tank, replacing all the soft fuel supply parts in the trunk area including the plastic sleave at the sender connection (search for it, it's been discussed a number of times), the fuel sender seal ring, etc. If there is any fuel smell in the trunk, it's a sign of cracked fuel lines near the fuel tank. If lines are cracked before the fuel pump, they allow air to enter the lines which displaces fuel. The pump can't suck fuel if it's sucking air. After that, look up front. Is fuel pooling in the intake under the carb? May need a carb rebuild. #2. Make sure it's actually overheating. 2002 temp gauge can get erratic due to electrical ground problems. When the gauge shows hot, check under the hood. If the hoses are so hot you can't stand to touch them briefly, then there probably is a cooling problem. If the hoses are warm/hot but "touchable", it could be the gauge. #5, #7. Maybe these two are related. Are the springs seated properly? It looks like you have lowered the car. When the car is jacked up, the springs will most likely be completely loose from the perches. When you drop the car back down, the springs may miss the perches. If one spring is caught "weirdly", it could raise one corner. #6. Ditto on exhaust touching chassis someplace where it isn't supposed to.

+1 on aluminum rivets with backing washers. I did see a stress crack develop on the first box I rebuilt without washers. I drilled the rivet out and added the washers and there were no other problems. If it is your first heater box rebuild, it's pretty likely something will cause you to take it back out before too long. The problem I found was when the self-stick foam gaskets on the doors came unstuck and blew out of the box. 3M weatherstrip adhesive and bare foam gaskets solved that. It's also quite easy to assembly the flap linkages in such a way that they collided inside the box, so test all functions before installing it in the car. Also, I used stainless tie wire to replace the rusted out clips on the bottom joint. Just wrap the wire around both tabs and twist the tabs together. Trim neatly, the tabs do hang down underneath and sharp wires are just waiting for a hand to snag.

I'll add my mechanical engineering $.02 to this: the bearing race is the part of the bearing assembly that wears first due to fatigue, i.e., it will fail eventually due to number of cycles, which is proportional to mileage. Good lubrication extends the life cycle, but miles will catch up eventually. Replacing the races resets the counter. Old races may look "new", but they're well down the life cycle curve and should always be replaced with the whole bearing.

I cleared cache, cookies, etc, logged back onto faq, and still no bueno with Chrome.

Opening with Chrome Version 60.0.3112.113 (Official Build) (64-bit) running on Win 7: map opens zoomed in to show Greenland and Norway, no markers, "Showing 0 markers" appears below the map. IE 11, map opens showing "the whole world", lots of markers, zoom in and markers break into smaller groups. Very cool. Like it very much.

Yep, get a replacement. Once it comes loose, and as the crack grows it will come loose, it will rattle and rock on your crankshaft and destroy that at the same time. Just replace it. It can't be fixed properly (welded and remachined) for anywhere near what a good used one can be purchased for. Place a want ad in the faq classifieds.

+1 or +2 or +3, for motor mount. You can pry up on the intake manifold with a suitable piece of lumber to see if the engine moves "too easily", which would be due to a broken motor mount. Most of the engine's weight is supported by the right-hand motor mount, so it's actually not all that difficult to rotate the engine toward the right fender to swap the motor mount. Just watch the distributor to keep from smashing it, it moves more than anything else.

Petaluma is also home of the Ugly Dog Contest. +1 on the tour. Samples included, I believe. May have changed since Lagunitas was acquired by Heineken. Sounds like you're enjoying your trip. I'm still jealous. Must get tii running...

This image from BAT was taken from underneath a 1600 that has one of each style of halfshaft. The driver's side (left side in this view) is the old style that originally came on your car, you can barely see part of the inner joint which is a u-joint on the old style halfshafts. The right side is the newer style using inner and outer CV joints. The old style outer joint has a small filler cap on the outer joint which is where you pour your gear oil in, the one in the photo has no oil left in it due to the large tear in the boot, I'm sure. There was a discussion on this forum regarding clear boots a few weeks ago that has more good photos. Hope this helps.

+1, use the long plugs. The shorties will not ignite the fuel/air mix in the way BMW's designers intended. The spark will be starting up inside the spark plug hole. In fact, I suggest you get a mirror and a light and look down into the spark plug holes. There may be some crusty build up at the base of the short plug that could keep the long one from threading in all the way.

The procedure outlined in the linked posting is exactly the same as the one I used to replace a tumbler assembly on an '80's Ford Ranger, except: the new pin was already installed in the new tumbler assembly. The parts guy told me to insert the tumbler into the hole that recently held the defective tumbler, then insert the key and rotate the tumbler. This action pushed the new, already installed, pin outward into the hole in the steering column. This locked the new tumbler into the steering column. It took just a couple minutes to do the remove/replace, after the column cover had been removed. Is it possible that the '02 tumbler has the same feature? Seems fairly likely.

+2 exhaust leak. This problem is not unique to '02s, so search Google, "finding an exhaust leak", to learn about numerous methods of finding exhaust leaks. You may have more than one, as well. Several of the results can even be done without you getting your hands burned.

Grills could be salvageable, too. A local person could possible find some parts in this one, looks "original" (plus some minor wear and tear).