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About roman.lysiak

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  1. No points or condenser. Put in that hot spark unit. Will check for loose wires behind instrument cluster when kids go to bed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  2. So I’ve got the car back on the road. Running nice for the better part. changed the wires to IE performance and swapped out the internals of the IE distributor for mech advance tii with the hot spark. It still has a slight hesitation here and there with the tach jumping around especially when engine is revving 4K plus. Is there a ground somewhere to look at to trouble shoot this behaviour. Coil and ballast have all been checked with ohm meter and check out. Roman Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  3. on a similar topic, with my tii I have been across continent 3 time. Newfoundland, Hatteras, San Diego, Vancouver. Need to do a trip to Florida and Alaska, to have done all corners of N.A. My odometer has never worked in the 20 years. is that a hole in the hood?
  4. Every time I adjust my valves I have a hell of a time trying to get the valve cover off and on, due to that dam hose that goes under the tii intake manifold to the air filter canister. 1/2” hose is too small, 3/4 too big. Cant find any 5/8” hose. Is that the size that goes there? no room to put the hose clamps on too, at the valve cover. Does anyone have the same problem... solutions? Roman Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Anyone know of a tii specialist in Toronto? All you Californians have it good with all the resources down there.
  6. I think I’m finding that. Going to send out my old Bosch one to get rebuilt and put some points back in. Go old school. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I was pretty sure it did. Have used blue with resistor for 20 yrs and all of a sudden I have issues. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  8. Maybe it’s the replacement IE distributor they sent me. Again? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Without ballast resistor I can finally get a strong signal and set timing properly. But still runs like crap under load. Fuel pressure good at 28. New cap rotor wires. Adjusted valves. I have no more ideas. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. Thanks. Just did that. Got the pin to set in the hole. Set everything to zero according to tii manual. Gave the mixture screw another half turn. Cleaned plugs. Fires right up. Start driving and she’s backfiring. Timing set to 25@2700. Keep fouling plugs. Weird thing is that when I put the cyl 1 sensor of my timing gun, it has a hard time picking up a pulse and intermittently hesitated to flash. Brings me right back to square one with spark problem. I have a 1.8ohm ballast resistor. Are there any that have a lower resistance. Will try bi passing it to see it it helps with spark. Making me crazy. 3.5hrs of setting and resetting and cleaning plugs. Think I’ve had them In and out at least 6 tokes now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. Back at it again. Watching Mike G's AFR discussion and realizing that I'm way too rich (keep fouling plugs) Mine was idling at 10. I'm resetting the whole linkage and D cam. I'm finding that I can't get the 5mm pin to go in the setting hole on the first notch of the pump arm. The arm is too high. What do I need to back off so that the arm can rest (lower) in line with the setting hole. Is it at the pedal? Cheers Roman
  12. Ya. Had a blue coil with resistor setup for years. Found that the old dizzy’s advance was too steep of a curve. Also had petronix in there. Changed it with the 180 dollar IE one. Put a new Bosch cap and rotor on. Can there ignitor just come off and I put my old petronix in there? Gonna be a hot one. Anyone down in Pittsburgh should go out to Ohiopyle park and swim in the natural water slides to cool off. Beautiful down there. Went last year. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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