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  1. Fall 2020 road trip Haliburton, ON. Puddle was too deep to get through...
  2. Set the TDC for cylinder 1 as per 123 instructions, got the green light to turn on and locked the distributor in place. I need a second had to turn the motor over to see if there is a spark. I can check tomorrow. But the plugs looked wet and smelled like gas. IF there was a spark, wouldn't it just fire. Leaving it overnight to trickle charge the battery again and try again. Roman
  3. Back at it trying to start the car... 73 tii. I have recently insysalled a new bluetooth 123 distributor, new blue coil, new IE fat wires, new rotor and cap, new plugs BPE6S. I took out the ballast resistor with the blue coil and have plugged the green iginition wire directly to the coil + terminal. The red and green wires that went through the relay through the ballast resistor are now dangling. I set the 123 as per instructions including tii curve from the bmw manual... when turning it over I get intermittent putts but no fire. I pulled the plugs and they are covered in fuel, there is no indication that any spark is happening. Any ideas? I want to drive this car this coming spring!!! really bad. Roman
  4. You said to eliminate the ballast resistor. That would fry the 123. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. What the resistance of the red coil? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  6. NGK I think they were the bpe6 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  7. I have a black coil in the car now reading 1.8 Ohms with a ballast resistor reading also 1.8 Ohms which I would figure is reading 3.6 at the distributor. I've had continuous problems with fouling plugs and poor spark. All fuel stuff has been reviewed numerous times, but every time I've upgraded the ignition system (new wires/new cap/rotor/plugs/timing/distributor/ignitor) she runs for about 2 weeks and then goes crap, with more plug fouling. I've changed the distributor and ingnitor internals twice now. As another kick at the can I've purchased the bluetooth123 and want to make sure I've got this set up properly so I don't blow the wad of money the 123's go for. I know that the 123 needs at least 1 Ohm of resistance and not any less. I have a blue coil reading 2.6 Ohms and I'm planning on bypassing the ballast resistor. I'd like to get rid of the resistor relay as well, knowing I have a starter that has the jumper plug on it that acts as the relay. I was planning on running a wire from the starter jumper plug to the positive of the blue coil, and also a wire going from fuse #12(ignition) to the positive of the coil. The question I have is this a plausable setup? Alternately, can I just run the ignition line from fuse #12 to the coil and get rid of the whole relay idea using the starter? Without that circuit will the car start? Does the juice run constantly from fuse 12 on both start and run or just in the run position? Roman
  8. Welcome to the madness. I’m in Toronto, if you want to go for a rip In the spring can meet somewhere on the niagara escarpment. Just need to get mine running. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  9. Can’t get this thing running. Been trying for 6 months. Runs well for 2 weeks and then goes to crap. Most recent incident was when I topped up my oil and I got oil entering the internals of the distributor. IE mech advanced one with a replaced hot spark internal. Started misfiring. Tried again tonight with putting in an older IE distributor I originally bought but blew the ignitor(didn’t have an oil leak), put the misfiring hotspark (maybe its shot?) into that one and couldn’t get it running at all. Can you check the elec ignitor? Maybe there is something outside of the distributor that keeps blowing elec ignitors. I’m running a black coil which reads 2.1 in the 200’setting on my voltage tester. The ballast resistor also reads 2.1 in the 200 setting even though it’s got the 1.8ohm stamp on it. Put in a new voltage regular solid state. Fuel pressure good 28psi. Valves reset. Reset all the throttle linkages and clearances. New plugs NGK BP, cap, rotor, IE fat wires. Timing is roughly where it needs to be. Need it to run to adjust timing. Just want to drive this thing and it won’t let me. Any ideas fellow faq’rs? Thanks for listening. Roman Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  10. No points or condenser. Put in that hot spark unit. Will check for loose wires behind instrument cluster when kids go to bed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  11. So I’ve got the car back on the road. Running nice for the better part. changed the wires to IE performance and swapped out the internals of the IE distributor for mech advance tii with the hot spark. It still has a slight hesitation here and there with the tach jumping around especially when engine is revving 4K plus. Is there a ground somewhere to look at to trouble shoot this behaviour. Coil and ballast have all been checked with ohm meter and check out. Roman Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  12. on a similar topic, with my tii I have been across continent 3 time. Newfoundland, Hatteras, San Diego, Vancouver. Need to do a trip to Florida and Alaska, to have done all corners of N.A. My odometer has never worked in the 20 years. is that a hole in the hood?
  13. Every time I adjust my valves I have a hell of a time trying to get the valve cover off and on, due to that dam hose that goes under the tii intake manifold to the air filter canister. 1/2” hose is too small, 3/4 too big. Cant find any 5/8” hose. Is that the size that goes there? no room to put the hose clamps on too, at the valve cover. Does anyone have the same problem... solutions? Roman Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  14. Anyone know of a tii specialist in Toronto? All you Californians have it good with all the resources down there.
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