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Moto Carlo

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  1. 24 at 1500 (32 at full advance) Don't know choke size. Yep I have a few lights, the one I use on this is the adjustable light. The car really is running great. I was just concerned about the 3 turns out when I read 1.5 on the Weber site. But certainly open for any additional input. Thanks Hans.
  2. So ... the Spanish vs Italian float heights are different? The same spec sheet (via Weber) that told me 1.5 turns out as the starting point for the idle jet , said 12mm float height at closed. (in my case plastic float) ?
  3. I am missing some common knowledge somehow. Why did I not see this online or in either of the two Weber books I have? I assume there are similar irregularities with the Weber IDF carbs... I had no idea. Thanks guys!!
  4. You guys rock. This is great info. Thanks.
  5. Well that makes a big difference. 3 is what I have and the afi numbers look good with the 60. More Weber info : I have the float set at 12mm at "closed" (light touch on the little ball). Main jet is 145. Ac is 155 with f16. Idle jet is 60 with f8. Timing is 24 btc with standard points ( but changing that out to Pertonix soon. Fresh plugs and wires.... But the great info here is the idle screw adjustment starting point. Thanks for that Hans. I searched the web but did not see anything about a difference between the Italian and Spanish Webers... 🙂
  6. Spain and the jet holder is - F8. I have been using the F8 for 50, 55, 60 and 65 jets as I experiment with the afr readings. I did not know changing to the f9 would make a difference. (but I really don't know anything about the dcoe 🙂 ) Also what is the difference between Spain and Italian Webers. I know mine is the 152 with the plastic float. Thanks guys!
  7. So ... my car is running great, but in the 'never leave well enough alone' department. I have a question. I have a single 45 dcoe . Fuel pressure is set at 3psi. The afr gauge gives me 12.5 - 13.5 in spirited driving. Idle after warmed reading is 12.5 . Float is adjusted correctly and the throttle idle is ~ .25 turns in. So what is my problem? The idle jets are 60s (55s I can not get a good idle, spits and sputters. 65s run great, but I don't get the good afr readings and the occasional small backfire.) So 60s, and it seems to run very well. But the idle jet adjustments are each out 3 turns. Weber suggest maximum 1.5 turns before changing jet size. So what harm am I doing with the current rig ?
  8. Sorry can't quite get my head around it. More air with the f9? So the more air would indeed make the idle jet side of things more 'tune-able" . https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=12156
  9. Got it. Thanks Marty. But I do see Pegasus sells different holders. F8 and F9. ? Even so, looking at the DCOE diagram, I find it hard to see how the holder would make any difference. I guess just wishful thinking on my part.
  10. Bink! I just learned something. It never occurred to me to change out the idle jet holder. On my 45 dcoe it is f8. But , "50 or 55 f9 is gold for a lot of people" Is this true for the dcoe too. Pierce Manifolds does not even offer a choice in the idle jet holder. Only the F8. Glad to see I am not alone in this. I have an uncomfortably full box of jets for the idf. And now my dcoe box is growing in size too. All with that dangling carrot of , "When you get it right it will work great for years without any effort." I guess we shall see. That has been kind of true for my old Porsche. I simply stopped messing with it. 🙂
  11. Once again a gold mine of info. This is all pretty much concurs with what I have found at other sites. 14.7:1 is the ideal, but .. er... uh... Sorry I should have mentioned the carb : Weber 45 dcoe single side draft. Thanks one and all.
  12. I now have a AFR gauge installed. Yahoo! Via the various forums, I am getting mixed messages as to the numbers to shoot for. The magic number that keeps coming up is 14.7 :1 . (I am assuming that is warm at idle) But others say that does not apply to older carburetor cars. Also seems there should be a range of numbers. at idle - cruising - and hot foot - With an ideal range we could dial in the different jets, not simply the idle jet... Just curious, anyone work anything out for this? (Sorry if this is an old topic, but I could not find anything with a FAQ search. )
  13. After I wiped the "wood" off, I simply sanded it with 600 grit and that was it. It is plastic and the 600 grit was enough to give it an even flat black appearance. If you do not like it then take it to 800 or 1000. I have a bit of finish work experience and if you spray it you could end up with orange peel and potential for it to peel on that old plastic when it gets hot. So IMHO I would avoid spraying it. Good luck.
  14. OK. I have idle. Wahoo. I put a fuel pressure regulator on the gas line and set it a 2.5 psi. Then took the float off the Weber. Sure enough it was set a 20mm. It is supposed to be 12mm (Some people push it as far as 15mm, but not 20). Doing those two things , now the car idles on it's own, and I am calling it a win. 🙂 When I can get back to it, I will time it properly. Then go back to the carb adjustments. I also have a AFR gauge on the way. That was a good idea, and it should really help me get the jetting right. I simply wanted to do a follow up to this thread . I appreciate all the help once again. I hope I can contribute along the way. All the best.
  15. I have not had the chance to time or do a dwell yet. Gap .016 I just got them static timed and fired it up before we got hit with a big storm. I do have a digital timing light. Makes it a lot easier.
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