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Sanity Check - Oil Pump Chain Tension


JsnPpp

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Before I button this all back up, wondering if you all can provide feedback as to if you feel this chain tension is appropriate.

 

My measurements with modest finger pressure is 2-3mm motion from center to one side at the tightest measured slightly lower than center. The videos look very similar but my finger pressure is a bit more for the tight one.

 

Various posts on this site (C.D.) says 5mm play side to side (10mm total) is the max you want. Prob I am at 3-6mm total.

 

Oh, I've added two 0.1mm shims. The engine was rebuilt about 60K miles ago. It was ok before but I just want to tighten things up while I'm in there.

 

Video of the loosest point:

 

Video of chain at its tightest.

 

Thanks in advance!

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1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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56 minutes ago, JsnPpp said:

Before I button this all back up, wondering if you all can provide feedback as to if you feel this chain tension is appropriate.

 

My measurements with modest finger pressure is 2-3mm motion from center to one side at the tightest measured slightly lower than center. The videos look very similar but my finger pressure is a bit more for the tight one.

 

Various posts on this site (C.D.) says 5mm play side to side (10mm total) is the max you want. Prob I am at 3-6mm total.

 

Oh, I've added two 0.1mm shims. The engine was rebuilt about 60K miles ago. It was ok before but I just want to tighten things up while I'm in there.

 

Video of the loosest point:

 

Video of chain at its tightest.

 

Thanks in advance!

Looks good to me. I wouldn't worry about it. Don't forget the nut!

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👍. Looks good to me and with the chain having been run in it will stay like that for some time.

Edited by Son of Marty
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If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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Well, great. I feel better!

 

Yep, nut is on, washer is on the back side, blue loctite, torqued to 45 NM (~34 ft lbs). I got the torque value from the board.

 

Two 13mm large bolts blue loctite + 18.5 ft lbs, two 10mm at 7.5 ft lbs.

 

Thanks everyone.

 

 

IMG_1386.jpg

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1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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Umm, is that the correct nut? Looks a little fat and has inadequate thread engagement.

The original oil pump nut (07119900079) looks different (thinner), is  NLA but a replacement is listed (07129922436). That one looks to be a low profile locknut.

Given the location, not sure I would run that nut, would make me uber nervous.

That is also one of the few spots where I consider safety wire..

have to drill a hole for that.

Could just be the pic angle

07119901301_PMA.jpg

07119901301_A1.png

IMG_5906.JPG

IMG_5907.JPG

07129922436-TN.jpg

Edited by tech71
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76 2002 Survivor

71 2002 Franzi

85 318i  Doris

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Well darn. I just put the pan back on and everything. Not a problem to pull it off again.

 

I will say that that was the nut that I pulled off the pump, lasted 60K miles. I don't know what loctite was on it (if at all).

 

It is possible that the gear is not precisely on the shank but I double checked it. Better safe than sorry, which is why I posted this as a sanity check! 

 

To my mind a less thick nut wouldn't make much difference, the more threads engaged the better, right?

 

I can pull the pan, and put red loctite on it at a minimum. I'd love to wire that nut but it's not in the cards for me.

 

Thanks folks, more soon, I'll dig in again.

 

Jason

1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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There were machinations about the nuts coming off in discussions on the E30M3 gruppe a few years ago. VAC made a new shaft for the rotor that had a reverse thread nut to eliminate the possibility of the nut backing off.

 

But in all my years I've yet to know anyone having a properly torqued nut come off.

 

Anyone here know of one?

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Wouldn't the thicker nut offer more resistance to loosening than the thin one with locktite?  There is more thread engagement that has locktite.

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A radiator shop is a good place to take a leak.

 

I have no idea what I'm doing but I know I'm really good at it.

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42 minutes ago, Einspritz said:

But in all my years I've yet to know anyone having a properly torqued nut come off.

 

Anyone here know of one?

That oil pump nut has been known to come loose, was it torqued correctly I don't know I wasn't there and many people don't know how to torque properly, Like the you tube I posted the guy has his hands all over the twisting end of the wrench, as my A&P instructor would loudly proclaim "are you torqueing the bolt or your F- -- N hand". Now I would say that a fastener that is torqued properly and safety wired will not come loose. 

Edited by Son of Marty

If everybody in the room is thinking the same thing, then someone is not thinking.

 

George S Patton 

Planning the Normandy Break out 1944

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13 minutes ago, jimk said:

Wouldn't the thicker nut offer more resistance to loosening than the thin one with locktite?  There is more thread engagement that has locktite.

 

My thoughts too - I don't see technical harm on having a slightly wider nut + loctite?

1973 2002tii (2764167), Baikal, sunroof, A/C, 5spd OD, 3.91 LSD, etc. Rebuild blog here!

In the past: Verona H&B 1973 2002tii (2762913); Malaga 1975 2002; White 1975 2002

--> Blog: Repro tii cold start relay;   --> If you need an Alpina A4 tuning manual, PM me!

 

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