replacing fuel pump

[auggiemize]

Not quite a mechanic, yet...any trick on swapping a new fuel pump for an old one (carbed engine)? Do I need to prep the new gasket with anything?...obviously make sure all old surfaces are clean, hoses are new, and filter...and a catch can under to keep peace with my wife...Thanks,

Dave V.

Edited June 12, 2020 by auggiemize

[s99]

Its pretty simple! Two nuts, two washers, and the insulator. Shouldn't take more than a couple minutes. Be sure to replace the two plastic bushings if yours are jacked up. Part # 13310075752 

 

You can see the plastic bushings just behind the nuts/washer on this. 

[John_in_VA]

And be sure to order the proper pump.  Some are tall. others short, causing a fitment/hose interference problem.  Paul W./Maximillian Importing or Steve/BluntTech should be able to steer you right!

[Hans]

If memory serves, there are two different push rod lengths. I can't tell you which goes with what - just a heads up. Where's Mike??

[auggiemize]

Thanks for the quick replies folks, and especially the pic 99. I'm sorry I'm been AWOL  for a while, but haven't we all. I've missed being in tune. Pun intended...Hey John, ever get rid of those old yokohamas? Is my recall working...Cant afford Prevegen. Again, appreciate the input.

Dave V. in NC

[Chris_B]

9 hours ago, auggiemize said:

 Do I need to prep the new gasket with anything?

No.

[Mike Self]

5 hours ago, Hans said:

Where's Mike??

 

5 hours ago, Hans said:

there are two different push rod lengths.

The longer pushrod goes with the early style pump that's held together with screws and is rebuildable.  It has a lever that the rod pushes back and forth to operate the pump.  The shorter pushrod goes with the later style pump that's all crimped together so it's a throwaway when it dies. This pump has a spring-loaded plunger that's pressed by the pushrod to operate the pump.  

 

Especially with the early style pump, check the pushrod to make sure it's not beveled on the pump end.  It isn't supposed to be, and enough  beveling will keep the pump from operating properly.

 

Cheers

mike 

[Buckeye]

6 hours ago, s99 said:

Two nuts, two washers, and the insulator.

 

I would use M8 Nyloc nuts instead. This way you don't have to retighten them nuts every so often.

[auggiemize]

I really appreciate the feedback folks. It all helps.

Dave V. in NC

[bublinki]

Good Morning Everybody,

First and foremost, thanks to Auggiemize for starting this thread and most importantly, thanks to all of the commenters. You really are what makes this site great.

I am in the process of getting my car running after almost 4 years of sitting in the garage.

I am finding that the "mechanic" that rebuilt the engine sometime ago, took a lot of short cuts.(stop me if you have heard that before! )

I ordered a new fuel pump from Blunt and am in the process of installing it, but had some questions.

The old pump had springy metal washers instead of the plastic washers that s99 mentioned. Is that an issue, do i need plastic?

The old pump had grease on the spring, do i need to do that?

This is just curiosity. Why did the old pump have plastic sleeves in the mounting holes? Was it so that pump could be used on other model BMWs? i plan on looking up the part number on the old pump and maybe that will shed some light on whether it was the correct part for my car.

Thanks again for any help you might lend.

I have to go to my real job, which gets in the way of working on my car..

Philip

[bublinki]

Oh, by the way, was this the right way to ask my questions? Or should I have started a new thread?

Thanks

[John76]

On 6/12/2020 at 2:28 PM, s99 said:

You can see the plastic bushings just behind the nuts/washer on this. 

 

23 minutes ago, bublinki said:

Why did the old pump have plastic sleeves in the mounting holes?

Probably to prevent oil leaks and dampen vibrations.

 

The plastic sleeves press into the pump, followed by a thin wave washer, and nut.

Buckeye's suggestion to use  Nyloc nuts is good. Don't overtighten....only 7-10 lb./ft.

[Son of Marty]

The bushings are there as heat insulators to keep heat from the head from transferring to the pump to help prevent vapor lock/

[kine8282]

+1 on the reply by @Son of Marty this kept happening to me until i installed the right bushings to stop the heat from "boiling" the fuel and starving the carbs.

[bublinki]

Hey John and Son of Marty,

Thanks so much for the replies and answers.

Now I get it. My bushings(I mistakenly called sleeves?) are so worn that the Left one is completely flattened out.

I wish I would have understood sooner, because I would have ordered them along with the pump. Oh well, the car sat for

 a long time, what's a few more days.  

Have a great weekend everyone.

Philip