Hans

OK. I'm used to the Haynes Weber book and one other that I can't name that have some M10 settings. But there is plenty of relevant expertise on here.

Any particular reason you are looking at Pinto settings?

Its 15F here today so I'm enjoying the idea of FL weather. But yes, if you want the retro oil look, fill your boots!

I've seen snow in Sarasota. In the heat of summer, I'd want the 50 in my engines.

As you know, we're easily puzzled. The mosquitos still ask after you. Is that a prototype roof top camper in 78? My impression is that the bulk of oil R&D has gone into multi grades to address higher mpg requirements and hotter running engines. I think 20-50 makes starting easier on the engine, with better viscosity when hot. Racers can select oil for one race day. So I don't see what you gain. I've used multis since early 70s.

I'm puzzled as to why you wouldn't use multi grade, and why you believe single grade would be superior for day to day use.

I use a thread chaser on all the holes to clean out the paint and rust. if memory serves the torque pattern starts from the middle and works out both sides to F and R.

My box of official NLA Wäscheklammern has come in handy for all sorts of glue jobs. These are not bad as well from Harbor Freight..

i think the propane torch gives you better control of the jet.

I assume the "weld" in jbweld means you'll never get that sucker out if needed? I thought you said it was just #4 running lean. Did you sort out the thread size issue? I'd want to be sure that was my problem. I still think the carb to manifold looks odd. I'm pretty sure my gaskets are thinner. I'd do the propane test around each of those likely leak areas.

What about la Jolla Indep? Carl has tons of old stuff.

What about plug wires?

Do all four mounting points carb to manifold look the same?

Paper is good. An odd coincidence that #4 is where you have a problem.

What about the gaskets? Is that your manifold in the picture? Did you have trouble getting fitting seated? In #4?

What sort of gaskets between carb and manifold?

Ottawa. 2000CS. And you?

If memory serves, you don't need to disconnect it if the transmission stays in the car.

Are pertronix units known to expire gradually? How old are the plug wires? What did you set timing at? Which coil do you have?

As above, I'd tweak the arm and switch the hardware around to put bolt head there or do the washer. I had to bend the arms to get the mechanical connection between carbs to mesh. I'd be reluctant to grind.

I'd be looking at the hose to tank connection and that missing sleeve.

Did he now. OK, time to check the carb I guess. Known plug and wire didnt change it. I'd wear safety goggles when blowing out the jets.

Did you look inside dist cap at #1 post? Are you using soft mount gaskets between carb and manifold?

Try Googling the part number.

Did you post mikeage on motor? When you say wet compression test, do you mean with oil in the chambers? If so, seems to me that would yield artificially high readings, which would mean you really are losing oil down the bores (which would be my first choice given the symptoms). That's my 230 am insomnia response. Can we assume head was rebuilt properly with parts properly measured? Bottom end refresh for 1k is unlikely to include even the el cheapo off-shore pistons. Problem is potential scope creep once its apart and all measured. New rings will not compensate for loose pistons. That adds another thou.+. Maybe crank needs to re-ground. New rings on old loose pistons might give you some short term relief.