What did you do to your 2002 today !

[Mpower5266]

Oh man, how do I get one of those?

I have an ad in the classified section or pm me.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Bibm5]

Why yes it is! Looks like that will be replaced when the exhaust gets redone. And as I was just laying under the car I looked up to see that this thing has popped a freeze plug at some point so yeah! More stuff to fix!

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[TVeye]

Ouch...

[Bibm5]

Battled with a slave cylinder that was fused solid into the transmission. The fight ultimately came down to breaking out the torch.
After cleaning the hole out with some sandpaper and some antisieze the new one slide right in with ease.
My advice to anyone planning on replacing their clutch slave cylinder is to have good quality circlip pliers and a torch on hand.
Oh, and maybe new circlips. Mine got a little tweaked during removal and were a real pain to get seated again.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Obtuse443]

To remove the clutch slave cylinder, I used a pneumatic hammer and it came out with some break free stuff on there.  Anti seize is a must when you put it back to get her!

[BrettD]

Disassembled  the front sub frame, cut out some metal for some re-enforcement, boxed the control arms, de-greased some of the parts for paint. While the pressure washer was out, got the dust off of the motor and transmission. Can't wait for Jake to send me the motor mounts.   

 

Great day!

[Mpower5266]

Glued up the drivers door card.  I can't get over how nice these aardvark cards are. 

 

Untitled by Nick  Wood, on Flickr

[man_mark_7]

On 2/27/2019 at 4:35 PM, zinz said:

The check valve isn’t a cure-all, but can help. I recommend replacing all your soft fuel lines with new and make sure your plastic sleeve on the nipple of the fuel sender unit isn’t cracked (many of them are cracked). Any pinhole can cause problems. 

 

Lots of threads on this issue

 

Ed

 

I once again chickened out on the check-valve install. 2psi of suction required to crack it that far from the mechanical pump, and on the pump inlet side makes me nervous. I did, however pull the fuel line off the tank and lo' - no sleeve! I put a sleeve on and she seemed to catch quicker than normal. Of course, this is with the fuel line mostly drained to the pump since I had the line off so that's a good sign. I'll report back after starting her when she has sat for a few days. If the sleeve doesn't work I'll resort to the check valve.

 

On another note, I know my gas cap is sealing, when I leaned on the tank to reposition the hoses temporarily, fuel came squirting out of the pickup tube as I compressed the tank! Now that I think of it, this probably isn't a good thing. The pump is pulling against a closed system. Is the fuel cap supposed to have an internal vent?

 

M

Edited March 1, 2019 by man_mark_7

[halboyles]

4 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

I did, however pull the fuel line off the tank and lo' - no sleeve! I put a sleeve on and she seemed to catch quicker than normal.

 

That sleeve is a major leak point in the system.  Here are some other gaskets/seals that usually need replacing in the fuel delivery system.

Fuel Sender Tube Sleeve Replacement.pdf

['76mintgrün'02]

36 minutes ago, man_mark_7 said:

On another note, I know my gas cap is sealing, when I leaned on the tank to reposition the hoses temporarily, fuel came squirting out of the pickup tube as I compressed the tank! Now that I think of it, this probably isn't a good thing. The pump is pulling against a closed system. Is the fuel cap supposed to have an internal vent?

 

The PO of my car put a little screw in the vent line that ran to the charcoal canister under the hood (which they'd removed) and so the tank was no longer vented.  I figured that out when I put the fuel return line back into service and was pressurizing the tank!  I would open the gas cap and a wOOsh of fumes would come out.  Scary.

 

EDIT:  I don't think we should actually need check valves, since there is one built into the mechanical pump. 

 

They say mechanical pumps are designed to push, more than pull; so I think you may be smart not using a valve that requires 2 psi to crack.

 

I'll bet replacing the sleeve on the sender will solve your problem.

 

 

 

Edited March 1, 2019 by '76mintgrün'02

[Bibm5]

Today I finished up the list of under car repairs with installing a new steering track rod.
Once that was done I bled the clutch and put it back on the ground and took it for a drive.
Wow!
After swapping the slave cylinder because of a weak clutch pedal, a tranny mount that was allowing the driveshaft to rub on the shifter and a worn out track rod that equated to about 8 inches of steering slop this thing feels like a whole new car! [emoji16]
Next is an alignment.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Simeon]

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

EDIT:  I don't think we should actually need check valves, since there is one built into the mechanical pump

 

This is definitely true but the genesis of all of this was a discussion a while back about a check valve being shown on the parts drawings and perhaps, from memory, being recommended by BMW for retrofit where people had hard starting problems (maybe a service bulletin?). 

 

I certainly haven’t noticed any problems with it yet but will happily pull it out if it does. 

 

[BarneyT]

Installed new black door cards and picked up my re-Done seats waiting on new carpet kit to install seats in my baur...

[joysterm]

Good weather in the forecast so I hung my sun visors today......  getting ready for the anticipated maiden voyage   (nudge nudge PW) 

 

Edited March 2, 2019 by joysterm

[Mario Falfan]

Those seats look dope!