Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

18 Good

About BrettD

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. I guess I will try a smaller hole (Hahaha) I did notice that the intake hole on the valve from the e36 is quit a bit smaller. I may try to silicone a barb on to intake hole on the e36 valve, hook it up and see if it makes a difference. Also wondering if the vacuum line should be before or after the throttle body. Thanks again Dudeland
  2. Thanks Dude. I did see that part and it is for the e36 intake, it won't work with the e36. It seems the e30 does not have one. A check valve totally makes sense to me, just wondering why the e30 doesn't have one, or what one I would use. I did read that post, but couldn't find anything certain. Thanks again
  3. Hoping someone out there can help me out. I did an e36 M42 swap. I swapped out the e36 intake manifold for an e30 manifold. I am still using the e36 throttle body. Upon startup I had the breather in the valve cover capped and the vacuum port in the the intake capped. I ended up with fairly strong crankcase pressure at the oil filler cap and a leaky valve cover gasket car ran like crap idle all over the place, very rough. After some research, I realized that I need to vent the crankcase and add vacuum to it. I installed a catch can with a hose from the throttle body to the catch can and a hose to the breather in the valve cover. The car ran much better, but the idle went all the way up to about 1700 RPM and surged between 1500 to 1700 RPM. It now has a very strong vacuum at the oil filler cap. It seems to be a vacuum leak thru the catch can. If I slightly pinch the vacuum line going to the catch can I can get it idle just about right. Is there something that should be regulating how much vacuum is going to the valve cover (crankcase)? I know the e36 intake manifold has a little PCV / CCV valve built in, but I cant seem to find one listed for the e30 M42. I am stuck between having to much positive pressure or to much vacuum on the crankcase breather. It is surprising to me how it affects the way the engine runs to the degree that it does. Am I missing something here? Will a smaller vacuum hose on the intake limit the vacuum (my instinct says no). Any help appreciated, this seems to be the last bug I need to work out to get it out for a drive. Thanks
  4. Hey GreaseMonkey02, Do you still have the turbo flare rubber trim available? Thanks,
  5. I had a set ordered and they got back ordered, I just copy and pasted the description. It looks like some sites use the part # 34-184530 and some use the term B8. I am so confused on the old part #s vs the B#s... I am trying to build a set of coil overs using Ireland Eng stuff, they recommended these struts, but it seems they are on a world wide back order. I have used the search tool (kinda), is anyone aware of a short strut that would work. I've been stuck in limbo on the build.
  6. Hey crowd, anyone have a line on a couple of new Bilstein 34-184530, B8. I'm in dire need and cant find them in stock anywhere. Thanks, Brett
  7. Front and rear suspension just about finished up
  8. Some polishing on the hood. Had to lay the Roundel on there just for fun.
  9. It' basically a battleship grey base with a blue pearl/ clear over the grey, and then 3 coats of clear over the pearl. It really looks cool in person. It changes from pure grey to grey with some blue highlights to almost pure blue depending on the lighting. I will be sure to post some better pics after it is all polished up. I do have extra paint and pearl if needed in the future so hopefully it won't be an issue. It's not exact to the M2 concept of course, but it really is what I was hoping for.
  10. Got it back, pretty happy with the results.
  11. Back from paint. Will get buffed out soon.
  12. A couple peeks at the paint process. Not cut down and buffed yet, but they look nice.
  13. Added poly motor mounts and rebuilt all the steering components.
  14. That's where we're at as of now after about 10 weeks of work. next we will be doing the final pass on the body work to be ready for paint and finishing up the front sub and steering as well as getting the rear sub-frame all rebuilt.
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.