What did you do to your 2002 today !

[its55]

56 minutes ago, flagoworld said:

If you have an ACE nearby or (possibly even a home depot in the specialty fastener drawers) they sell these things in many sizes. Should be basically the same.

 

Thanks, already ordered from FCP Euro.  😂

[Greg R aka Big_Lebowski]

Breakfast with a handful of the Austin 02rs this morning (photo credit - Le Tran) and a pic of @BarneyT in his Inka in my rear view mirror. 
 

 

[gracer]

Replaced the drive belt for the injection pump on my TII.  Hope this one lasts for another 20 years.

[bergie33]

Cleaned and flocked my glovebox, installed newly plated hardware.  Love the way it turned out.

 

 

 

 

[Pablo M]

Got my front springs on to compliment the rears I did last night. 
I first tried to pull the struts without disconnecting the bottom but after some considerable struggle I wasn’t able to do it. 
so I undid the three bolts at the bottom (one side had the wiring connecting them, one didn’t) and I have to say, that was much easier than I expected. I would remove the entire assembly in a heartbeat. 
I was worried the bolts would be permanently rusted together, this being originally a Tennessee car, but was pleasantly surprised everything came apart with ease, like a west coast car lol. 
 

The more I do the more I realize how much more I have to do lol. 
I’ll  have to dig into these again to replace the shocks and all the rubber parts, but that’s for another time. 
 

 

Im hoping the new springs, 1-1/4” lowered, Ireland Engineering stage 1 springs, will settle down a bit as the car still feels too high. 

after:

Edited November 20, 2022 by Pablo M
Clarity

[D.martijn]

This weekend we made some more progress regarding the fitment of the inner rear wheel housing, well depends on what you call progress haha..

 

We started out with checking the measurement of the newly fitted wheel housing. I made a small 3D printed flange with a hole in the center. The piece fits snuggly in the hole in the shock tower. by using some small rope and a bit of weight we can get a pretty good measurement. We were only off 1mm. Pretty good for a rough fit up of the panel.

 

I got started on repairing a small rust spot just in front of the differential cross member where the boot floor overlaps the floor section of the car.

 

Quite rust underneath

 

New panel made, by using a chisel I recreated the small step so both panels sit flush.
I did cut the panel just a little short but was able to bridge the gap..

 

Welds cleaned up, I left the left side of the panel just a little longer so I could trim it once welded in.

 

And sprayed with alu zinc spray, ready to weld on the boot floor panel (just pictured above the repair)

 

While I was busy with repairing this section, my brother was cleaning up the flanges where the new wheel well housing is welded onto. However after some considerations we decided to remove this panel as well. What I forgot to mention is that when we trail fitted the new wheel housing, the insides didn't completely line up with each other.
It looked like the arches aren't quite the same, the front corners were nice and flush while the rear was out of alignement, rough estimate of 5-7mm. Removing the outer wheel well would make it possible to "stretch" the panel out a little to make both front and rear align flush with each other. And secondly this way we are able to spotweld both halves together with the spot welding machine. I hope this explination make a little sense.. this is where you can question said progress haha

 

 

The panel and quarter are glued together at two spots with a big glop of tar.

The outher wheel well is only stitch welded to the inside reinforment panel of the Touring. Only the two halves are spotwelded together. if it helps other people that might go the same route..  

 

I will now sandblast this whole panel and spray it with Corroless (red anti rust primer)

 

Both halves clamped together.

 

My brother also cleaned up the inside of the quarter which was covered completly with cavity wax

 

[its55]

9 hours ago, bergie33 said:

Cleaned and flocked my glovebox, installed newly plated hardware.  Love the way it turned out.

 

 

 

 

 

Looks fantastic.  Good work on your blog also, will be helpful to me in the future.

 

 

['76mintgrün'02]

8 hours ago, Pablo M said:

Im hoping the new springs, 1-1/4” lowered, Ireland Engineering stage 1 springs, will settle down a bit as the car still feels too high. 

 

Did you have the weight of the vehicle (plus the recommended added weight) sitting on the wheels before tightening the suspension nuts and bolts?  If the wheels were hanging down when tightened, the rubber bushings are locked in that position and under stress when the car is back on the ground.  That can affect the ride height (and cause the bushings to wear prematurely).

 

Tom

 

Edit-- even if you did not loosen the pivot bolts and stuff, it would probably be a good idea to do so and then retighten them after changing the springs.

Edited November 20, 2022 by '76mintgrün'02

[2002FjordBaur]

A nice Sunday drive before i put the Baur away for the winter... and a quick photoshoot outside Beckhams London home.
I could have sworn i saw the net curtain twitching...😂
Also a first drive with my new steering wheel... the extra inch diameter does help with low speed manoeuvres 👍


 

Edited November 20, 2022 by 2002FjordBaur

[Pablo M]

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

 

Did you have the weight of the vehicle (plus the recommended added weight) sitting on the wheels before tightening the suspension nuts and bolts?  If the wheels were hanging down when tightened, the rubber bushings are locked in that position and under stress when the car is back on the ground.  That can affect the ride height (and cause the bushings to wear prematurely).

 

Tom

 

Edit-- even if you did not loosen the pivot bolts and stuff, it would probably be a good idea to do so and then retighten them after changing the springs.

I tightened everything up in the air. But all I had apart up front were the tie rods and center link (having also replaced that center link), the front sway bar, and took out the front strut in its entirety. None of the control arms were loosened. On rear it was just rear sway bar and rear lower shock mount that I undid. 
I did a search here and seems others were equally disappointed with the amount of lowering with the IE stage 1 springs. I should have done more research but a good friend, @chargin3737 recommended the 1-1/4” drop pointing to his car, but mine ended up nothing like it. 
pretty disappointed, especially given all the work (and bloody knuckles) that went into this swap. 

['76mintgrün'02]

I'd put a few bandaids on those knuckles and loosen/tighten the control arms, so they sit in the 'neutral' position with the new springs and things.  Leaving them the way they were doesn't mean they're right!  (edit--trailing arms too)

 

I might not be right either though and it's easy for me to type instructions for you; but, that's what I would do.  I borrowed some lead ingots to weight my car down.  Others have used sacks of concrete and such.  I suppose family members might be another option.

 

Which spacers do you have in the rear?  I went from two dot to three, hoping to raise the saggy H&R height and added half inch spacers on top of those to get where I am now.  Maybe you could put thinner upper pads in back.  Which ones are in there now?

 

I also put the aluminum spacers back in up front.  So, I've go lowering springs running at stock (early car) ride height.  Maybe I'm not someone you should be listening to.   

Edited November 20, 2022 by '76mintgrün'02

[irdave]

On 10/30/2022 at 1:15 PM, tzei said:

Toyota Yaris GR front seats (my21) in. Needs some minor tweaks but i'm happy.

 

Required quite a bit of work to make them fit. Width was good but height needed some metal work. Where like 10 cm too high. Now about oe height or 1 cm lower.

 

You guys already have GR Yaris cars for parts...  Who knows if we'll even get the car here.  

[tech71]

Spent the morning in the garage doing some assembly chores on Franzi's replacement engine. 

Thing is now I'm no longer certain its going to be Franzi's engine, thinking now of sticking it in Survivor. No worries, I have another engine I assembled with survivor in mind so I can just swap them.

Thinking it might fit  my plan for Survivor better.

Yes, those are new flat tops .5mm oversize, for those wondering why?...

1. They  were sitting on my shelf.

2.They are paid for

3.Their cost is a fraction of what it would cost to increase compression.

4. Compatible with the overhauled E21 2.0 head available.

 

 

Edited November 21, 2022 by tech71

[Pablo M]

4 hours ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I'd put a few bandaids on those knuckles and loosen/tighten the control arms, so they sit in the 'neutral' position with the new springs and things. 

 

Which spacers do you have in the rear?  I went from two dot to three, Which ones are in there now?

 

I also put the aluminum spacers back in up front.  So, I've go lowering springs running at stock (early car) ride height.  Maybe I'm not someone you should be listening to.   

Lol, I suppose it couldn’t hurt to loosen and retighten control and trailing arms. 
 

Rear spacer? No idea what’s in there. I literally only replaced the rear springs reusing everything else in back. 
 

I also left the aluminum spacer up front because I didn’t know better. The more I’m reading on it the more I come across people tossing it lol. I’ll do same. 

also came across lots of people with same experience Re:barely noticeable change using the IE stage 1 springs. so I’m tempted to think I didn’t do anything specifically wrong. 

['76mintgrün'02]

Yes, ditching the aluminum spacer on top of the strut mount is common practice.  I did that, but put it back later.  I was trying to achieve a level stance front to back and wanted to raise the rear too, to eliminate some of the camber back there.  I haul tools in the trunk and that makes it sit even lower.  Einspritz once said that we want it 3/4" higher in the rear at the rockers, so that's how mine sits now.  

 

14 minutes ago, Pablo M said:

Rear spacer? No idea what’s in there. I literally only replaced the rear springs reusing everything else in back.

 

There are three different thicknesses of rubber spring pads that go on top of the rear springs.  One, two and three dot, with one being the thinnest.  (There are dimples/dots in the side of of the pads).  That's what I called a spacer earlier, which is confusing.  Sorry.  They vary by around 3/8" and that difference is approximately doubled in ride height difference.  

 

I got a little creative when I put the spacers back in up front and managed to do it without taking much apart.

 

The strut mounts have longer bolts pressed into them to accommodate the spacers, so you can either move the spacer to the top of the fender and put the nuts on top of that, or shorten the bolts, or order new bolts that are shorter and press those in.  I'd probably just nip them neatly.  Here's one with the spacer on top.