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What did you do to your 2002 today !


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I pulled the spark plugs out and found that the gaps had grown to    .032", so I set them back to .025".  

 

The reason I pulled them was to make the engine easy to turn over, while I adjusted the valves.  I spun it using the fan blades.  One valve was a little loose and a few were a little tight.

 

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On my test drive the exhaust leak got a whole lot louder when the pipes broke in two.  I wired them back together to make the drive home a bit less obnoxious.

 

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The fiberglass/hose clamps was from a previous half-assed  band-aid over the rust-hole that grew.

 

 

This time I did a three-quarters-assed fix by cutting the old rusty connection off and making a coupler out of a piece of poly-tarp-shed pole that was slightly larger in diameter. 

 

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I slit it lengthwise and pinched it down over the exhaust with hose clamps.  I found that tapping it with a little hammer allowed for tightening the clamps more, as the pipe slid into itself.  Tighten, tap, tap... tighten, tap, tap... and put the U-bolt on the front end for good measure.

 

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I had the clamps facing down, the first time around, but then flipped them up to the topside. 

 

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It is really nice to have a quiet car again.

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7 minutes ago, '76mintgrün'02 said:

I pulled the spark plugs out and found that the gaps had grown to    .032", so I set them back to .025".  

 

The reason I pulled them was to make the engine easy to turn over, while I adjusted the valves.  I spun it using the fan blades.  One valve was a little loose and a few were a little tight.

 

 

 

On my test drive the exhaust leak got a whole lot louder when the pipes broke in two.  I wired them back together to make the drive home a bit less obnoxious.

 

 

The fiberglass/hose clamps was from a previous half-assed  band-aid over the rust-hole that grew.

 

 

This time I did a three-quarters-assed fix by cutting the old rusty connection off and making a coupler out of a piece of poly-tarp-shed pole that was slightly larger in diameter. 

 

 

I slit it lengthwise and pinched it down over the exhaust with hose clamps.  I found that tapping it with a little hammer allowed for tightening the clamps more, as the pipe slid into itself.  Tighten, tap, tap... tighten, tap, tap... and put the U-bolt on the front end for good measure.

 

 

I had the clamps facing down, the first time around, but then flipped them up to the topside. 

 

 

It is really nice to have a quiet car again.

VmxuFNk.jpg

2361432 - Red, Box Flared, Weber 40s, 5-Speed

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Chamonix ‘73

 

The pics are pretty bad, but I’ve managed to pick at the car here and there over the past few weeks. The pans are POR’d, scuffed, and kilmat added. The short brake lines from the “T” have been replaced and new soft lines are in place. The old seized parking brake cables were removed. The diff hanger has new bushings and got a lick of paint. The rear subframe has new mounts and then I installed it along w/ the 3.91 LSD. Next project will likely be new brake lines and brake parts on the trailing arms So I can finish reassembling the rear suspension. I need to get my driveshaft measured and sent off for shortening as well.

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On 8/17/2020 at 10:12 PM, I'm SpaghetTii said:

I used all stock internals including the pistons since he scoring on the cylinder walls was light enough to where it fell within spec for the stock pistons after machining. It looked like no one has ever torn down my motor before I did, which I was surprised by since its original to the car. I replaced the water pump. oil pump, timing chain, timing chain guide and tensioner, and had the MFI pump rebuilt by Jerry Fairchild who also said that the pump looked like it had not been gone through in a very long time, possibly ever since it was first put on the car. I didn't have much trouble finding timing chain parts, but I did have some trouble finding an oil pump chain that fit right (the one I got ended up being too wide) so I just used the original one and made a custom shim to remove slack. So far I have only put about 65 miles on it but i'm happy with it and nothing has ended up broken yet. As an added bonus, I now no longer have the oil leak I couldn't track down for the life of me before the rebuild... that makes up for needing to rebuild the whole thing, right?

 

Wait.  I missed the part when you went from s14 to tii?

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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10 hours ago, Jebster said:

New guy weighing in. Impressive  work on the motor and I'm glad all is well.  I need to address a much simpler problem on my tii.  Wheel bearings.  Which I shall start tomorrow. 

 

Welcome.

 

The fronts are really straight-forward.  The rears, you really have to want to do them...

 

Good luck.

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Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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9 hours ago, I'm SpaghetTii said:

Did I ever say S14? I sure as hell wish I had one, but nope. still the old m10 in my tii

 

Obviously I have you confused with someone else.

 

:)

Dave.

'76, totally stock. Completely.

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Got my '73 Sahara back this past weekend after a sojourn for some body work in a few spots, and I put the stock air cleaner back on her over the Weber 32/36 (the air cleaner and all parts came in a box along with the original Solex from the original owner). Interestingly, it appears to be the original paint (and rust) on the air cleaner and it's a shade of green, not grey or black. Hmmm. I'm not sure if I'm going to restore / repaint it or not -- this car is a very original car and it's a slippery slope when going through it and cleaning up, vs leaving the originality in tact. 

 

Speaking of which, I also cut the springs down which definitely is a departure from originality, but she was riding SO HIGH in front (as stock US cars do) I just couldn't take it. This occupied my M, T, W evenings this week. :)

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--

'73 Sahara numbers matching 

'74 Mintgrun sunroof car w/ oem Golde deflector, euro bumpers, 5spd, owned since 2002

 

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6 hours ago, otto said:

Got my '73 Sahara back this past weekend after a sojourn for some body work in a few spots, and I put the stock air cleaner back on her over the Weber 32/36 (the air cleaner and all parts came in a box along with the original Solex from the original owner). Interestingly, it appears to be the original paint (and rust) on the air cleaner and it's a shade of green, not grey or black.

 

Let's see it!

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John in VA

'74 tii "Juanita"  '85 535i "Goldie"  '86 535i "M-POSSTR"  

'03 530i "Titan"  '06 330ci "ZHPY"

bmw_spin.gif

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