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AustinOski

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Everything posted by AustinOski

  1. @DTMLGND - Thanks, can’t tell too much, but I do see an adapter over the seat rails. I’ve emailed Dave at Aardvarc to confirm the adapters he has on eBay will fit - BMW 2002 E21 E24 Custom Recaro Scheel-Mann Seat Low Rise Adapter Mounting Kit WWW.EBAY.COM I have been restoring E21 and other Recaro seats for BMW owners for over 25 years (over 500 sets sold). I designed these low-rise brackets to fit all the seats. Fits all 2002 and early E21 cars perfectly.
  2. @d.hitchcock - Thanks looks like standard 2002 rails with Aardvark (or similar) Recaro/Scheel adapters, yes? Actually unbolting my Recaro’s now to check this. I have the Aardvark adapters (and Recaro “e21’s”). So, I’ll see if this works for me and the seats I have (which look just like yours).
  3. @Paul Rubia - Thanks. Looks nice. Can I get a pic of your mounting brackets?
  4. Okay @mccusername I’ll keep that in mind. I have the Aardvark adapters from my Recaros so I’ll use those for now and then figure out what adjustment I need. I am more of an upright sitting guy, so they might work. Stay tuned!
  5. @JohnP_02 - I think you’re right, judging by the many photos and ads I’ve seen. Once re-upholstered and installed, only @zinz would notice they are different (he has an amazing eye for detail). I need to get my driver’s seat in my Fjord square tail repaired, so I’m going to put the better of these in and make sure I have all the right mounting pieces. I’m going to sell the Porsche/CSL mounting rails. Now, I need to find some regular/stock 2002 rails. The roundie these are going into has some no-name seats and “custom” mounts/rails.k
  6. @Conserv I mis-wrote. They have the recline levers on the left side, so they are both driver’s seats. I did finally find a picture of a true pair. So, they are “sided”. I’d prefer a real set, but I think it might be easier to find a passenger seat than just the reclining hardware for these seats. Hard enough to to find one of these, much less the hardware. But, you never know! I found these.
  7. That we did. You called it. Maybe. Different seats and maybe not a set? I still can’t tell, hence the online investigation!
  8. Thanks @Greg R aka Big_Lebowski. I’ll hit him-up.
  9. I’m hoping some experts can chime in here. I bought a couple of seats and am wanting to make sure I know what I have. 1. From posts I’ve read it seems like these are 401’s. Maybe 401 Rallye’s? They seem to have the larger upper side bolsters. One has a tag that denotes Type: 4 and KBA 900 12. If there were other numbers after the 4, they are gone. Are they 401’s? 2. Seller claimed they are a pair. They are very similar, but not exactly the same. The one on the right seems to have very slightly deeper uppder side bolsters. I think! I have been staring at them and they are slightly different. Most dimensions are the same, but a few are not. One seat might be 1/3-1/2 wider in a spot. Maybe they are different, maybe they were re-upholstered and they each were changed ever so slightly (stuffed a bit more or less). Same seats or different? Same model, different year? Or, were there production differences within the same model? 3. They both have the recline lever on the left and the fold forward lever (for rear seat access) on the right (when sitting in the seat). Does that mean they are both driver’s seats, since you’d want the fold forward on the outboard side? I’ve read (and seen pictures) that show pairs being exactly the same. Some have said they are both passenger or driver side, others have said on some models there is not distinction and they were made the same. 4. Are there any sources for the side covers? Seems I read a while ago that some folks on e9coupe had some 3D printed, so checking over there, too. Oh, and, not 100% sure what I’m doing with them. Probably going in one of two 2002’s. They are much more comfortable, to me, than the E21 Recaros I have in one. The other has comfy no-name sport seats. No name, because I don’t know what the name is. Posted pics here last year and no on could identify them. Thanks in advance! Attachments
  10. I have both the CN36’s and the Vreds. CN36 on a 2002 and Vreds on an E3. Like both. Both grip well compared to Conti/Michelin all season tires.Way better. Vreds are quiet and smooth. Can’t comment on CN’s. Car has stainless exhaust, dual 45’s and Stage 2 suspension. Maybe more comments once I get the car back with Eibachs/Billy HDs (B6). Now, the CN36s are cooler looking. But, the Vreds look okay. Lots of the criticism I read about those were leveled at the look. Unless you’re staring at the tires and scrutinizing them, I don’t see the issue. They look fine. Oh, and, both roll.
  11. Yeah, funny, I woke up at 2am after posting this thinking, why the hell haven’t just pulled them and checked for branding. No, no knob on headrests and not the same recline mechanism.
  12. Bump. Yes, two years later. Still don’t know. Yes, car still sitting in the garage. Refuse to drive it if I don’t know the brand of seats! Seriously, just thought I might get some new eyes that may know. I’ve done a LOT of Googling. What’s killing me is I feel like I saw it on a car once upon a time. I asked a friend who had a Fox body Mustang. Nope. PO said they were Flofit (which is why I looked at Mustangs), but can’t find anything like this. Fiat? Nope. French? that would seem to fit the weird horizontal recline adjustment. Not that I can find. Hmm…Not the end of the world if I don’t figure it out. But, would like to cover the bare metal. Any ideas on that? Thanks, Joey
  13. Got the 2002s a big brother. Yeah, it’s leaning. First thing on the list.
  14. $35 for part, $58 shipping. Maybe I'll check around, first.
  15. I just meant they didn't look like someone took a drill to it on a Saturday afternoon. They did a really clean job. I'm new to this, so I thought maybe the plate was different due to some obscure option. Who knows. I'm learning something new everyday.
  16. @adawil2002 - Thanks. Much appreciated. Nice price. I need to bookmark them. Been using Rogers, Blumtech, Aardvark and Maximillian. This is a nice addition. Ran across it and then forgot. Which leads to another question (I should search for the answer...). This car has an aftermarket console, installed by a PO. The vinyl is less grained than these center-peices. My other 2002 is a "restomod" and faceplates are custom to match rest of console (and handle A/C, oil gauges, etc.) Are people covering the face-plates to match the console itself? Guess I can, just curious. I'll also look at some cars in the AM at the local 2002 Cars and Coffee which is tomorrow morning.
  17. Then they just did a good job with the holes (they look better than in photo)... Okay, so I'll just find a new faceplate. Shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the info!
  18. There are four holes around the green dummy switch on the ‘72 Inkarado. They appear to be “factory”/original. If not, very, very professionally done. Edges are sharp, no evidence of manual drilling, perfectly spaced. Anyone else have these or know purpose? Don’t see them in other pictures I’ve seen.
  19. @Mike Self - Really appreciate that. You just may hear from me.
  20. Thanks, all, for the input much appreciated. @jgerock - No duct tape. That's the photo playing tricks. That is foil covered butyl adhered to the outer door skin. Parts are all rust free, having been installed new 10 years ago (and thankfully not rusted while sitting outside at the POs house in Houston for 5 years, sometimes uncovered). @Jae - I looked again and figured out why I can't find the stops. There are none. When the window is up as far as it will go, nothing is within 3/4"-1" of the tabs that are part of the door frame (in the two photos). @'76mintgrün'02 - Nothing bent, rusted or out of shape. This appears to me just not getting it. I'm going to try again after my noon conf call. Yeah, some surface rust on door, but clean otherwise. When I was in the passenger door I wire-brushed the rust and sprayed rust-convertor/inhibitor on it. I also put some more butyl in, first making sure the original butyl was well rolled down. Butly is a killer when not rolled properly. Moisture can get trapped under it and then...I found a bunch of unrolled butyl under the back seat when I was putting in seat belts last weekend. But, I digress. @adawil2002 - I did, thanks. But I don't know enough yet to follow the directions. You say, "Loosen the 10mm bolts", but I was not sure which. They are all pretty much 10mm bolts. Didn't know if you meant specific ones or all of them. When I started I was not wanting to loosen all of them (though sounds like I should), because it was not flopping back, just not going-up all the way. I didn't want to create new problems (which I have and still not sure how). I'll report back a bit later. Thanks again.
  21. @Jae - Thanks. I'll take a look again. I looked at this diagram before getting started and then couldn't really see those stoppers. I think I was fixating on the two the that were part of the door. So, the stoppers that bolt in hit the tabs on the door and that is how the stopper works. Got it. @Slavs - Thanks. Yes, I knew I had to step away from the car. That's when I wrote this and thought I'd come back to it this morning. I was worried about loosening too many things (and screwing it up), since I was only trying to adjust the height. I had no "flop" like I had on the passenger side. I'll try loosing everything a bit and going from there. @Stevenc22 - Based on other posts, I did check.Thanks. There is no slop in the crank action - it starts rising as soon as I start moving the crank and there is no play. Teeth all look good. It seems to be about adjustments - which I'm obviously being very, very slow to understand. I played with the passenger door for a couple of hours a few weeks back. I improved it (it no longer hits the B pillar trim), but didn't get it exactly where it should be - but, it's better. Driver's window is a full 1/2" from going up. I'll go for a run to relax, then get back at it! I'm determined to figure this out - as dense as I may be.
  22. My driver’s side window does not roll up all the way. Before I tried to fix it, it did not flop back. Now it does. Vehicle is a ‘76 (if that matters). I’ve read the FAQ and other posts. Didn’t help me. I’m clearly just not getting it. After I took off the door panel, I checked for the window stops thinking they were something I can adjust based on other readings. Clearly I cannot. They are part of the door itself (not adjustable peices). Photos 1 and 2 are the stop tabs. I then thought if I loosened the two pairs of screws in the black front and rear window brackets, I could lift the window a bit. Nothing budged. Pictures 3 (rear) and 4 (front) are of the two brackets and the two bolts in each that I’m talking about. When I went to roll the window back-up, the window flopped back, pushed by the front of the frame at the quarter window. However, when I loosened and retightened the bolts nothing had moved. So, I’m flummoxed. Why would the window now operate differently if I was unable to move anything? Sigh...It seems there is now play between the front, lower wheel and the vertical guide it runs-up. But, I can’t seem to resolve it. I did try and adjust the bolt at the back, top of the door frame that moves front/back a bit. However, that does not help. It only serves to pinch the whole assembly and stop the window from rolling-up more than about 1/3 of the way. I’m at a total loss. Any advice would be most appreciated. Most. Signed, Frustrated in Austin
  23. So, I did the passenger seat and decided to do it the same as the driver’s. It’s very comfortable and I was concerned on price of foam and seatbelts might be too firm. Now, we’ll see how it does over time. Here are some pics of old straps and then new. Vinylex bottle slid right in with no tension. New straps are from Aardvarc.
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