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AustinOski

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AustinOski last won the day on June 8 2020

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About AustinOski

  • Birthday November 7

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  • Gender
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  • Location
    Austin, TX

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  1. Got the 2002s a big brother. Yeah, it’s leaning. First thing on the list.
  2. $35 for part, $58 shipping. Maybe I'll check around, first.
  3. I just meant they didn't look like someone took a drill to it on a Saturday afternoon. They did a really clean job. I'm new to this, so I thought maybe the plate was different due to some obscure option. Who knows. I'm learning something new everyday.
  4. @adawil2002 - Thanks. Much appreciated. Nice price. I need to bookmark them. Been using Rogers, Blumtech, Aardvark and Maximillian. This is a nice addition. Ran across it and then forgot. Which leads to another question (I should search for the answer...). This car has an aftermarket console, installed by a PO. The vinyl is less grained than these center-peices. My other 2002 is a "restomod" and faceplates are custom to match rest of console (and handle A/C, oil gauges, etc.) Are people covering the face-plates to match the console itself? Guess I can, just curious. I'll also look at some cars in the AM at the local 2002 Cars and Coffee which is tomorrow morning.
  5. Then they just did a good job with the holes (they look better than in photo)... Okay, so I'll just find a new faceplate. Shouldn't be too hard. Thanks for the info!
  6. There are four holes around the green dummy switch on the ‘72 Inkarado. They appear to be “factory”/original. If not, very, very professionally done. Edges are sharp, no evidence of manual drilling, perfectly spaced. Anyone else have these or know purpose? Don’t see them in other pictures I’ve seen.
  7. @Mike Self - Really appreciate that. You just may hear from me.
  8. Thanks, all, for the input much appreciated. @jgerock - No duct tape. That's the photo playing tricks. That is foil covered butyl adhered to the outer door skin. Parts are all rust free, having been installed new 10 years ago (and thankfully not rusted while sitting outside at the POs house in Houston for 5 years, sometimes uncovered). @Jae - I looked again and figured out why I can't find the stops. There are none. When the window is up as far as it will go, nothing is within 3/4"-1" of the tabs that are part of the door frame (in the two photos). @'76mintgrün'02 - Nothing bent, rusted or out of shape. This appears to me just not getting it. I'm going to try again after my noon conf call. Yeah, some surface rust on door, but clean otherwise. When I was in the passenger door I wire-brushed the rust and sprayed rust-convertor/inhibitor on it. I also put some more butyl in, first making sure the original butyl was well rolled down. Butly is a killer when not rolled properly. Moisture can get trapped under it and then...I found a bunch of unrolled butyl under the back seat when I was putting in seat belts last weekend. But, I digress. @adawil2002 - I did, thanks. But I don't know enough yet to follow the directions. You say, "Loosen the 10mm bolts", but I was not sure which. They are all pretty much 10mm bolts. Didn't know if you meant specific ones or all of them. When I started I was not wanting to loosen all of them (though sounds like I should), because it was not flopping back, just not going-up all the way. I didn't want to create new problems (which I have and still not sure how). I'll report back a bit later. Thanks again.
  9. @Jae - Thanks. I'll take a look again. I looked at this diagram before getting started and then couldn't really see those stoppers. I think I was fixating on the two the that were part of the door. So, the stoppers that bolt in hit the tabs on the door and that is how the stopper works. Got it. @Slavs - Thanks. Yes, I knew I had to step away from the car. That's when I wrote this and thought I'd come back to it this morning. I was worried about loosening too many things (and screwing it up), since I was only trying to adjust the height. I had no "flop" like I had on the passenger side. I'll try loosing everything a bit and going from there. @Stevenc22 - Based on other posts, I did check.Thanks. There is no slop in the crank action - it starts rising as soon as I start moving the crank and there is no play. Teeth all look good. It seems to be about adjustments - which I'm obviously being very, very slow to understand. I played with the passenger door for a couple of hours a few weeks back. I improved it (it no longer hits the B pillar trim), but didn't get it exactly where it should be - but, it's better. Driver's window is a full 1/2" from going up. I'll go for a run to relax, then get back at it! I'm determined to figure this out - as dense as I may be.
  10. My driver’s side window does not roll up all the way. Before I tried to fix it, it did not flop back. Now it does. Vehicle is a ‘76 (if that matters). I’ve read the FAQ and other posts. Didn’t help me. I’m clearly just not getting it. After I took off the door panel, I checked for the window stops thinking they were something I can adjust based on other readings. Clearly I cannot. They are part of the door itself (not adjustable peices). Photos 1 and 2 are the stop tabs. I then thought if I loosened the two pairs of screws in the black front and rear window brackets, I could lift the window a bit. Nothing budged. Pictures 3 (rear) and 4 (front) are of the two brackets and the two bolts in each that I’m talking about. When I went to roll the window back-up, the window flopped back, pushed by the front of the frame at the quarter window. However, when I loosened and retightened the bolts nothing had moved. So, I’m flummoxed. Why would the window now operate differently if I was unable to move anything? Sigh...It seems there is now play between the front, lower wheel and the vertical guide it runs-up. But, I can’t seem to resolve it. I did try and adjust the bolt at the back, top of the door frame that moves front/back a bit. However, that does not help. It only serves to pinch the whole assembly and stop the window from rolling-up more than about 1/3 of the way. I’m at a total loss. Any advice would be most appreciated. Most. Signed, Frustrated in Austin
  11. So, I did the passenger seat and decided to do it the same as the driver’s. It’s very comfortable and I was concerned on price of foam and seatbelts might be too firm. Now, we’ll see how it does over time. Here are some pics of old straps and then new. Vinylex bottle slid right in with no tension. New straps are from Aardvarc.
  12. @Son of Marty - As the heat index seems to be 105F here everyday, I can’t imagine what the use of a heater would be. But, I imagine it’ll be useful here in February for at least a few days.
  13. Category: What did I do for my 2002. Put a mini split in the garage to keep them cool and dry.
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