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The Drive My Daily Driver 02 to LA to Learn to Race Challenge


Benjamin A.R.

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Howdy Fellow FAQ junkies, it's been a while. The title pretty much sums it up, I'm going to drive my only car, my '75, from Oakland to LA to learn a little about racing at Willow Springs with the Alfaholics of AROSC. I know it's a dumb idea, especially considering how much I have to do to button up the car for track duty on the 12th and 13th of Nov. I still have to secure the battery properly, Find a way to make my fan shroud work with my new I.E. rad, Figure out why said rad is cooling worse than my old garbage rad... Rebuild the clutch MC so it stops leaking and I'll be legal, Siphon and replace steering box oil, Flush and bleed brakes, Make a crappy catch can for the rad and the crankcase, Adjust valves, Adjust rear brakes, finish ordering parts for all that + spares, and get stuff organized so I can film this Roadkill-type adventure.

 

   This is my list of shit to have on hand for if... (knock on wood)

-Oil, enough for a change+filter, Brake fluid, Diff oil

-Coolant and like 10 gallons of distilled water

-Permatex Ultra Black, Blue Locktite, Gasket Material, Bleeder line, Zipties, Duct tape, Safety Wire

-Water Pump, 71 Themostat, Coolant hoses and clamps

-Brake pads

-Fuel pump (see question below), fuel line, fuel filter

-Extra ignition module, rotor, cap, plugs

-Guibo, rocker hardware, feeler gauges, valve cover gaskets

-Ramps, jack, jackstands, buckets, pans, funnels, timing light, torque wrench, dremel, grinder, hand tools, BFH, Paint filters, Fix-a-flat, Road flares, Anti-Zombie weapons, Tent, Cooler, Tarp, Sleeping Bag, Fuel and coolant for me

-Maybe: Alternator, Coil, I.E. Blue Brake Pads? Hmmmmmm.

 

So I'm all ears if you have something to say about all of that. Here's my only two real questions at the moment:

 

Q1:

Part number/maker of this fuel pump? I've been meaning to ask for a while. I dug through the internet for a long time, but got annoyed. Logo is "PN" with wings and a chevron/ shield. I've seen it once before but I can't remember whose car it was on. Looks like a long rod? Even if you just knew the manufacturer, that would be helpful at this point, I at least want a rebuild kit to pack.PN Fulepump2.jpg

 

 

PN Fuel pump1.jpg

 

 

 

Q2:

This has been asked in a thread many years ago, but never followed up on with a part number(s). What is the part number for the grommet under #10? It probably needs to get replaced when I rebuild the thing.

clutch master.png

 

Is it the same grommet attached to #14 in this picture? It kinda looks like it, and I need them too. I don't think it (they?) are #34314450055 shown in the brake master cylinder expanded view, that diagram doesn't even look like mine. 

brake fluid rez.png

 

 

 

   Please don't be passive aggressive and post a link that I overlooked. It's just going to break when the site gets updated and the next guy won't be able to see it. If I missed something, my bad! I'll post the answer on this thread too then.

 

 

 

In other news, I finally decided between building an M20 or a boosted M10...more to come..........

 

 

Turbo parts in garage.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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You don't need the fan shroud for a track day- it only helps at a standstill/low speeds.

 

How/ what are your brake pads? 

Take the tools to adjust your rear brakes.

How are your engine/ trans mounts?

Battery tied down securely?

Front wheel bearings adjusted just a little looser than 'tight'?

Alternator bushings in good shape?

Got zip- ties?  Bailing wire?

Exhaust hangers in good shape?

Got a good spare tire?

 

...just things that have derailed me...

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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Current pads are not great, I'm just going to burn them up and have a good spare set on hand.

Engine mounts and trans mounts are good as of now.

I have to work up something for keeping the battery in place.

Just did wheel bearings a few months ago, I'll double check.

I'll add Alt bushings to the list.

Got a spare, wire, zipties, and all the other jerry rigging equipment.

Exhaust hangers will be inspected today.

 

Thanks for the tips t, any thoughts on that pump or those grommets?

 

Edit: I was gonna do the shroud to survive LA traffic.

 

Edited by SnowDriftin44
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I didn't see a fan belt on your list--esp if you suspect the alternator bushings (i.e. they're not urethane).  Old rubber alt bushings will allow the alt to run slightly cocked from the water pump and crankshaft pulley--especially when you tighten the belt to make up for worn bushings--and that'll wear the belt out faster.  

 

Oh...and don't forget a helmet!

 

mike

'69 Nevada sunroof-Wolfgang-bought new
'73 Sahara sunroof-Ludwig-since '78
'91 Brillantrot 318is sunroof-Georg Friederich 
Fiat Topolini (Benito & Luigi), Renault 4CVs (Anatole, Lucky Pierre, Brigette) & Kermit, the Bugeye Sprite

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Well..... if your plans get pushed back a bit, or if you want some instruction time from 02 racers, then consider VARA University.   

 

http://www.vararacing.com/university-of-vara-2017

 

Your #10 and #14 are not the same pieces.  One is a rubber grommet, the other (on the BMC) is a plastic elbow.  If you need the grommet underneath the elbow (and your running a normal 02 BMC vs Tii) then you need  34311103205.  FIY there are still a number of active threads with part numbers for these pieces.  

 

Good luck on your trip down this way though, should be a fun adventure for you!

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As far as grommets for MC, there are two versions depending on model year and / or std. 02 Vs.till as mentioned above. Std. 02 MC uses 34311103205

 

Master cylinder.PNG

 

Grommet for Input Cylinder Clutch, have no idea, would think should be one of the two above. You need to measure ICC port diameter. 

76 2002 Sienabraun

2015 BMW F10

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11 hours ago, mike said:

I didn't see a fan belt on your list.

Good call, mine is brand new, but it's on the spares list now! Thanks Mike.

11 hours ago, AceAndrew said:

 

Your #10 and #14 are not the same pieces.  One is a rubber grommet, the other (on the BMC) is a plastic elbow. 

Thanks for the tip Andrew, I was hoping that #14 included the grommet that is pictured attached to it. That way I could just buy x3 34321102282 and pull one grommet off for use in the clutch master cylinder. That was my question, whether those grommets come on the elbow and if those grommets fit the CMC as well. Sorry, I should have been more clear.

 

Any leads for that fuel pump? Part number/link I missed for the correct CMC grommet?

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You've got a good list going... a few thoughts:

 

Which type of LH engine mount do you have? If urethane, bring a spare.

On a downdraft carb (32/36 or 38/38), the VARA school - and maybe the Alfa guys - would like to see the carb's pressed-in inlet fitting replaced with a tapped brass or steel fitting. 

You're bringing a flex disc, that's good. Might double-check that you have 10.9 hardware.

I'd suggest bringing a spare diff, if available. (If you're running an open diff, stay off the dirt.)

Bring an extra air cleaner / filter, or a way to wash yours....

Regarding the fuel pump, consider an electric pump as a spare, and a cheap dial-type regulator. And stuff to plumb it.

Check with Alfa folks if standard coolant is allowed (some groups want only water and water wetter)

 

Finally, +1 on the VARA driving school. -KB

 

 

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On 10/29/2016 at 0:26 PM, SnowDriftin44 said:

Current pads are not great, I'm just going to burn them up and have a good spare set on hand.

 

 

I've never been a fan of the notion of "burning up" or using the very last bit of the life of worn brake pads and/or tires at the race track, especially in the case of a novice driver!

 

Big Willow isn't all that hard on brakes, but the problem with thin brake pads is that the caliper pistons and the brake fluid within them are very close to the heat generated by the friction between the pad and the rotor, and it is very easy to boil brake fluid. 

 

Change your brake pads before the event, it's cheap and easy insurance! And make sure that the brake fluid is fresh, and of the high-temperature variety (ATE TYP 200 is acceptable in my book)!

 

Good luck,

 

Chris A.

Chris A
---'73 2002tii Chamonix w/ flares, sunroof, 15x7s, LSD, Bilstein Sports w/ H&R springs, upgraded sway bars, E21 Recaros
---'86 Porsche 944 Turbo grey street/track car

---'81 Alfa Romeo GTV6 rescued from junkyard, Lemons Rally/"GT" car

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I've got a homemade power bleeder that fits our caps if you want to borrow it. And I'm jealous, it's going to be quite the adventure!

Edited by 02Coastie

"Sabine" 1976 Polaris / Navy - 12+ year Inop Ebay Find. Now with Microsquirt and Cold A/C. 

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Yeah, I've never messed with the grommets.  Unless they leaked.  Which they almost never did...

 

As to pump, I always just carried a spare mechanical when I ran that, and the one time I

suspected it of causing problems, swapped it.

(it wasn't the problem)

 

t

 

"I learn best through painful, expensive experience, so I feel like I've gotten my money's worth." MattL

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On 10/29/2016 at 3:26 PM, SnowDriftin44 said:

Current pads are not great, I'm just going to burn them up and have a good spare set on hand.

 

 

Bad plan.   always start a track weekend with new/good brake Pads.  

Edited by mlytle

2xM3

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