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Benjamin A.R.

Solex
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About Benjamin A.R.

  • Birthday 03/23/1999

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  1. This is the first I've heard of this, do you have a source? According to everything I've read they were "seasoned" high mileage stock M10 blocks with the roughness from the casting process polished out on the inside. Are you thinking of a crank girdle? And they should've been 16v heads unless I'm missing something...
  2. @tzei WOW, thank you for sharing. That's an awesome sheet to look at, the torque curve is sick. It's interesting to me that you chose a 1.8. The US E30 1.8 blocks weigh about 30 pounds less than a 2.0 from a 2002, I've seen one crack because of this I think. Maybe yours is from an earlier car like an 1800 or a bored out 1600? The watercooled Holset is also interesting, what is the CHRA from? Every HY and HX I've ever seen is oil cooled only. Man they are hard to kill, I bet a watercooled one will last forever.
  3. @Dudeland Stroking an M10 is a waste of money in my opinion. An S14/aftermarket crank and rods would've cost more than my entire turbo setup including the ECU. Boring is a great idea since forged pistons are on the shopping list already. Don't get too crazy though, because thin cylinder walls and high boost aren't best friends. Don't worry about highjacking the thread man, I hope it turns into a knowledge dump.
  4. I have lots to learn in that department haha. But so far so good! Sounds like you have a pretty sweet build in the works, if you run MS I'll give you tunes. That goes for anyone that needs them. The 10psi tune on the stock '75 block is pretty dialed and I'll give it out free of charge.
  5. Yep! I don't understand that mindset, why speak with authority on something they know nothing about? Anyways yeah you're right, but that would've increased the cost of this particular engine by like 40%. Some day I would definitely like to build the gnarliest M10 I possibly can, do all my own porting, the whole 9 yards. But for now I just wanted to put together a pretty stout one and see what it'll do.
  6. Ain't that the truth. That should be a disclaimer at the top of every Ebay motors listing. Yep no disrespect intended. I see that you have a well informed opinion based on experience, I just disagree. Which is totally fine! I just want to see more people do cool stuff with these engines, because that drives the aftermarket for all of us. What I dislike is the naysaying that takes place on this forum, by folks without your experience building and blowing up engines. I had a well known "knowledgeable" person on this forum tell me that it was impossible to make more than 250 horsepower with a turbocharged M20 because they have belt driven cams... that's bad because it discourages people from trying their ideas. We could probably find common ground in that I probably should've used H Beams instead of stock with ARP hardware. Chineseium H Beams or good old German castings? There's a metallurgy one for ya. And now that I talked up the M10 so much watch mine fail hard on the first pull because that's how the universe works haha.
  7. And they showed the wrong crank when talking about the early M10s. They at least got right that the M10 platform is the most historically significant. Plus it's an inspiring story of one mans engineering vision for an engine coming to fruition, saving a company, carrying people around the world, then surpassing what anyone thought was possible when its block was used in F1.
  8. That logic makes sense to me, thank you both for your input and constructive criticism. The machinist, who taught me what little I do know about this engine, built a naturally aspirated one that put down 240 on an engine dyno. That's why I'm taking his word on 80(1)ftlbs/110nm. Maybe next time I'll split the difference. I don't see any advantage in making changes to this particular engine now that it's done, but I'll make a note in my next video, for general purpose head stud use don't go for 90.
  9. Yep Robert does some amazing stuff, I want to get my hands on a set of his rocker retainer collars they're art. Check out his company Dynotech. Diesel turbos are the best. My truck has the 'ol VE injected 12 valve in it with a 2nd gen HX35. I'm on the hunt for an HE351CW for it... then someone brought to my attention that if I could adapt a controller for it, I could install an HE351VE...that would give me the power and egt drop of twins and the secondary function of an exhaust brake all in one unit. Don't even get me started on truck stuff.. The 2002 has an HX30 super. The thing spools hard at about 3,500. Bigger turbo just means gnarlier 2 step to get it whirling haha.
  10. If this were 1989 and I were playing with K-Jet I would be more concerned. I've been running 10 psi on my bone stock 200k+ mile M10 for the past 10,000 miles... smacking the limiter most of the way. The engine doesn't care at all. I never even strapped it to a dyno, it's street tuned. I don't buy the narrative that M10s are delicate and you're on borrowed time.
  11. Flex fuel sensors are amazing these days, I may incorporate one in the future.
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