pklym

Yes, we've used lights on coils and injectors. Injectors light up properly, coils do too for a bit before stopping I think the smoke test is probably in order, intake has been on and off several times so I know we won't find two gaskets but maybe there is a leak elsewhere. I think we still have the old coils so I would just need to track down some wires that don't cost a fortune. I will put this on the list. Thanks

As Toby points out, you can't really reverse it on this car. Thanks though.

There are tons of options, if you aren't about to repaint everything and you are just doing a spot repair in an out of sight place like this, I would look into por-15 (get a sampler pack on amazon), pickle-x (expensive) or phospho (cheap). I would generally stay away from random rustoleom cans of whatever. Others on here are far more knowledgeable on the subject though.

I would take a wire brush (on a drill) to it and see if you can clean it all off, then make sure you throw some rust converter or primer on the bare metal if you get that far. If you are lucky, you can remove all the rust just like that (then please please treat properly so it doesn't just rust from bare metal). If you can't get through it all then you need new metal. You can't really make it worse unless you take off rust and paint and then leave it to keep rusting. If it needs to be cut out, it needs to be cut out. I wouldn't use a screw driver though. Wire wheels are just a few bucks at Harbor Freight.

We are baffled. Have been working on an m42 swap into my '76 for over a year now and the damn thing just won't start. I have had some threads over at r3vlimited that offered suggestions but nothing that has stuck yet, so I am reaching out here. The FAQ is much more active. We have spark, we have fuel, we have excellent compression. The engine is timed properly. Every sensor ohms out fine. The wiring harness has been pinned out repeatedly and everything matches. We have tried two different ecus, two different crank position sensors, two different cam position sensors. The car has coil on plugs (because the spark plug wires that came with the car were busted), its got brand new coils. Injectors are the common ford four pintle injections that were rebuilt prior to purchase. They all seem to spray properly. Fuel pressure is in spec. Coils are in proper order 1-2-3-4 from front to back, we have tried other orders that some people have sworn work. Relays all have power, the power seems to remain constant throughout cranking. The car cranks and wants to start but won't. Last week we replaced the crank pulley and it made a noticeable difference. Now it gets even closer to starting and backfires and pops and gurgles and sometimes even seems to start with one rev before dying. Below is a video though the phone doesn't pick up the sound that well. One thing that has bothered us, and is possibly the cause of this, when we pull the coils and watch them spark (in slo mo video) they stop sparking after a few cycles (of wasted spark). It just seems to stop sparking completely. We would think this has something to do with the crank position sensor or the ecu but as mentioned, we have tried to ecus (both supposedly from working cars) and two CPS, both new, both ohm out correctly. We are definitely at the "throw parts at it" stage of troubleshooting. Right now I have an AFM on the way (though supposedly it should start with this unplugged, so we have tried both ways), and another (used) CPS (this one is a different part number, the original part number that was later superseded). The r3vlimited threads are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=384330 http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=391672 Video of a start attempt here: https://goo.gl/photos/ZGRHB9xRmQ8WfcrX7

I had the worst time trying to remove the fan from the old motor and get it properly mounted and balanced on a new motor. I ended up buying a new full assembly even though it was an extra $170 or so good luck

Does it go all the way through?

How's the wiring harness coming along?

Can the FAQ just buy one and we can loan it out?

Oh shit, that must be how I ended up single...

If you want to rent a flat bed and a guy to drive it, you and my girlfriend can sit in my car on top and get driven around. But you should probably keep looking until you find one that runs.

Whatever it is, just make it a parody.

I had a helluva time trying to get fan blades on a motor without them, I ended up breaking down and buying a new fan with blades attached, wish I had done it from the get go

You can buy a bracket for a newer, more efficient, compressor (Sanden) from a user on here. I think is name is HobieDave. Not necessary but probably wise.

The important parts on AC compatibility is getting a bracket and compressor to fit on the engine and in the engine bay, and then finding an evap and blower that fits inside the car.

Have you checked with Walloth? shipping will still probably be the issue but I would certainly pay the premium over trying to force an e30 part in there.

As the title says, I am just looking for one VW 15x6 Corrado Steelie to complete a set so I can slap it on the car. I am looking for the later D-hole style specifically. I'm in PNW but will pay for shipping if need be.

I wasn't a big fan of the prefixes, and agree on the drop down. Will be happy with whatever you decide, however.

What type of grille does the '73 need? Is it early style with slat covers?