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pklym

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Everything posted by pklym

  1. pklym
    For a hobby not an investment, rolling restoration, and especially for a 1976, I don't think numbers matching adds much if any value to the car. If it were a rarer year or trim then maybe, but not for a run of the mill 1976. Based on the just the info you provide, this doesn't strike me as a great deal but considering the market lately it may be pretty fair. Especially, as you point out, because it is hard to find a low-rust specimen in Minnesota.
  2. pklym
    Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, and he walks into yours
  3. pklym
    That's what I figured. Everything else on the car appears 100% original so I didn't want to assume. Seems like an odd single modification to make (other than the custom rust holes of course).
  4. pklym
    I believe my air dam is a worthless DIY, please let me know if I'm mistaken before I toss it:
  5. pklym
    Yes. You may need to add a few inch extension to one of the wires to make it reach, depending on your setup.
  6. pklym
    You have my cars older brother, but clearly the younger one lived a bit harder life. 1523469
  7. pklym
    If you can't activate from your seat, you probably will only use it for long storage. While wiring for my engine swap we installed a hidden switch to cut off the fuel pump. I can also cut the power in the trunk but then i'll lose my precious radio presets. (Oh, and a club).
  8. pklym
    Adding an update for posterity (copied from my r3vlimited thread): "Just realized as I prep my Bosch CPS for return to FCP Euro that they sent Bosch p/n 0261210047 as an interchange part for the order of p/n 12141721504. So I guess I am updating this to say I do not know if 12141721504 would not work on this car, but instead that 0261210047 does not work. Be careful ordering this part from FCP Euro. I have explained my issue to them and hope they refund my money and verify their compatibility "
  9. pklym
    Blake, if you end up getting it, I am just wrapping up the finishing touches on my m42 swap and should have it down to Portland in the next month. If you need to compare anything etc.
  10. pklym
    Bluedevils is the resident seatbelt guru
  11. pklym
    Mike O'Hara in the Cully neighborhood in NE Portland. He is very "old school." Don't go to him if you want a pertronix installed, but he otherwise he is good (tiny shop). I used to be friendly with the owner of Pacific Motorsports and have had good experiences there. (Just east of the Ross Island Bridge) I don't have any experience with Boyd Motorworks, also on the east side.
  12. pklym
    Peter's Hobby Shop will be the most recommended. Some more options on the other side of the river. You are from Ontario though. Looking for a PPI or broke down on a trip?
  13. pklym
    NOS yo
  14. pklym
    Oh, definitely not obligated in anyway. Some people don't mind sharing though.
  15. pklym
    Looks pretty sweet. If you aren't planning on flipping it, you should share what you paid for the general knowledge of the board. You should be able to find lots of info on speedometer and dash repair on the FAQ. Check to make sure the speedo wire is hooked up on both ends, if you need a new speedo they aren't hard to come by. Welcome!!
  16. pklym
    You certainly do. The CPS seemed like the most probable culprit, I just can't believe this is the way it went down.
  17. pklym
    Great but frustrating news!! The car is alive. It runs. The problem appears to be fixed. I had been coming across an old, apparently discontinued, part number for the crankshaft position sensor. It is NLA. But I found one on ebay, bought it, and now the car runs. This has been almost six months chasing this no-start and throwing two new, supposedly correct, crank sensors at it. So incredibly frustrating, but thank goodness its alive. The part number that works on my engine, with a 91 318i ecu, is 12141721968 The one that didn't work was 12141721504
  18. pklym
    I use this as an auxiliary fuse holder, I have it under the hood just towards the cockpit from the original (in my case 12-fuse) box. I don't know if it would fit in the original spot but I imagine you could make a plate to mount at the original spots and mount this on the plate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D1G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  19. pklym
    Hopefully Portland
  20. pklym
    I can understand a PPI missing some hidden rust, but the rust by the pedals should have been caught. That's garbage. Good luck.
  21. pklym
    Hard pass. $2-3k is where I would draw the line (on the west coast) and that's assuming you can at least do much of the body work. It seems like the only thing it has going for it is the title/paperwork
  22. pklym
    Yes, I've checked that a few times. Would a bad FPR somehow relate to a no-start like this? The only method I have found for testing an FPR requires the car to be running. I really don't think its the issue but running out of things to test.
  23. pklym
    It definitely seems like a timing issue but its been checked about 100 times. Timing can't be too far off because compression is great across all 4 cylinders. Timing marks all line up. Cams line up properly etc. The flywheel doesn't have the locking hole that is often used in timing but every indication is that the engine is in time. Thanks
  24. pklym
    Definitely grounded. Stomp test shows no errors. Thanks.
  25. pklym
    They should be the same size just with 2 additional pintles. The plugs are wet and black, with 1 and 4 being wetter.
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