Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Community Reputation

24 Excellent

1 Follower

About Smallpants

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Ya.....I think for the same money I'd take (just off the top of my head).... BMW 2002 Turbo BMW 3.0 CSL BMW 1M BMW M5 (new) Porsche 911 GT3 Touring Ford Raptor and Singer Porsche 911 Call me crazy but that's just me.
  2. I need 5 sunroof clips. Part # is 5412963416.
  3. Saw this nice Polaris parked in the Caremont Village today. I live in Claremont and haven't seen it around.
  4. Hey Spurious! Thanks for designing these 3D parts and making them available for everyone to use. I'm glad you're around here to take some credit for your hard work. I didn't mind doing a little drilling and fabbing. With old cars like these few things are ever straight plug and play. From what I can tell so far your design is working in all the important ways it needs to. And I suspect the ABS will be fine for this application. Even if one of these break at some point, they are so cheap make and relatively easy to install. (I bet it would take me less than two hours to do it all again. Great work!
  5. Thanks. Ya, I think there are a few links in the comments and not all of them work. I also previously tried to copy the links and that didn't work. But I just tried the first link (it's a response to the 4th comment at this moment) and that link works. More simply, just Google search "Thingiverse Aftermarket Sunroof Slide." I just did and it was the first thing that came up. The "Order this Printed" tab also seems to be working and it brings up 3 different options for companies that will print the parts. I have no idea which one I selected now.
  6. I hate sunroofs. I know some of you love them but I just don't get the appeal. So when I bought my 02 and the sunroof was inoperable I didn't care at the time. But now that I'm restoring the car, the idea of having a sunroof that doesn't work seems lazy and half assed. But when I saw the price of replacing sunroof cables it only transformed my strong sunroof indifference into smoldering hate and I was back to not wanting to fix the thing. That was until I saw a You Tube video from a guy named Spurious Pseudo entitled "Project 1968 BMW 2002 EP03 Sunroof." Much love to this guy. In the video he replaced those little plastic parts on sunroof cables that always break with new ones he designed and 3D printed. In the comments he added a link with the file so any one could print them. "Pretty f***ing cool," I thought. I followed the link and it takes you to a hosting sight that has a link to a 3rd party provider that would print the design and send it to you. (I would paste the link here but it seems to be broken when you try to do this, so I recommend following the link from the comments in the video). So, I said "What the hell" and ordered 5 pairs. All together I think it was just shy of 30 bucks for them. About a week later they arrived and what follows is a write up on what I've done so far to install them. Here is the broken remains of one of these plastic bits from my car. Here are the new ones as they arrived. The first thing I did to install the new plastic bit was remove this little metal bullet shaped cap from the end of the cable. These buggers are on tight so I hit them with my torch, got them red hot and yanked them off by placing the cable in my vise with enough room for the cable to slide freely but stopping the cap. After a few yanks the cap came off. Now the bare end of the cable can slide into the new 3D part. As for a new cap I used some small copper tubing I had sitting around (I think it was 4mm) and crimped the ends. (Sorry, no picture). I tested the strength of this before I installed the new bit and it seemed fine to me although someone else might have a more elegant solution to capping the cable. At this point, however, things became a little more complicated than shown in the You Yube video. There is a small metal rod that protrudes from the plastic bit. You need to remove these (as well as the other metal parts) from your original broken parts and install them in the new 3D parts. There is a hole in the 3D part to receive this rod but it was far to small so the new part needed to be drilled out slightly. The rod must be metric but I only have imperial sized bits so I didn't have anything that would create the perfect sized hole. Now I had the parts printed in ABS plastic. I also build guitars as a hobby and often use ABS for binding on guitars. You can melt ABS with 100% acetone and use the resulting "slime" as a glue to weld pieces together. I chopped up some small pieces of ABS, submerged them in acetone, and after about a half hour had some ABS glue that I could coated the end of the rod with to place in the 3D part so it would fit perfectly into the slightly larger hole I drilled. The other metal parts from the original plastic bits need to be removed and reused. This picture shows their orientation with the original broken part. Missing from this picture is a metal pin that goes into the 3D part that allows the metal tab that's secured to the sunroof to pop up and down at the roof is opened and closed. Again this hole is too small on the 3D part as originally printed. See the difference between a 3D part and one after I drilled it out. In the original plastic part this pin is enclosed so it can't slide out. So after I drilled the larger hole I inserted the metal parts into the 3D bit, secured them with the metal pin, and once again melted some ABS with acetone and used the "glue" to close the holes on each end of the pin. Here's a picture on the ABS glue after I applied it. As it drys in bonds with the 3D part and will keep that pin locked into place. After this it's just a matter of installing the metal tab and I should have a fully functioning sunroof cable. Now it was just a matter of cleaning up the cables. (Mine were really gunked up). I'm not sure this was necessary but it couldn't hurt. Here's a before and after. After this I hit the cables with some moly grease and they were good to go. There are other write ups on how to install cables and get your sunroof working so I won't bother with that here. I can say that after installing the cables they seem to slide easily and are working perfectly without the sunroof on. (I'll install that tomorrow). I'm not sure if there's a way to embed a video here so I made a You Tube video showing the sunroof tabs sliding here. The only question I have at this point is the durability of the ABS part. Now for me I don't think this will be an issue because I will rarely use my sunroof. But considering how cheap it is to have these parts printed up and realitively simple it is to swap these out, I think it would be worth it for others to give it a try. Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
  7. I need 1 sunroof cable. I literally just need the bare cable itself without any of the hardware which I have. If you have a broken cable sitting around let me know.
  8. Status update for those interested. My focus has now turned to the interior. The original plan for the interior this summer was to delete the back seats, install a roll bar, new Esty carpet kit and put in sportier seats. Some of the budget for those things has been eaten away by cost over runs (i.e. insturment cluster) and project creep (i.e. full exhaust) so this summer project is probably going to bleed into fall. One thing I had not been planning on tackling this summer was the broken sunroof. But it seems to make more sense to do it now. Putting a new headliner in, which I'll do once the sunroof is fixed, will be a lot easier without the rollbar installed. So next on the agenda will be the sunroof and headliner. I'm going to keep this thread for exclusively updating progress on the car and start posting specific questions I have in new threads.
  9. Chris's idea of priming the fuel pump did the trick. I attached some clear tubing to the exit end of the fuel pump and sucked gas to make sure the fuel was getting to the pump. I turned the car over a few times and then it fired up and purred like a kitten. Thanks for the help Chris.
  10. Don't apologize Chris, you're the one helping me and I appreciate it. My thread is becoming long and unwieldy and I think it's unrealistic to expect anyone to be keeping track of all this. I'm actually thinking about just keeping this thread to document progress and starting new ones to deal with specific questions I have for this very reason. I'll try your prime the pump idea and report back tomorrow.
  11. I should have mentioned that I did this. No fuel is getting to the carb. I know gas is being drawn up toward the engine (I can see it in the lines with the carpet out) but for some reason it stops before it gets to the carb.
  12. I replaced the fuel line. I tried to start the car with starter fluid and the car will still only fire for a second and shuts down. When I was starting the car I saw gas draw up through the new line so I at least know fuel is heading towards the engine. Any thoughts on troubleshooting from here?
  13. Well I found out the source of my fuel issue and it's a dozy! I followed Simeon's advice. I disconnected the hose leading into the tank and blew into it and it was obviously clear. I then took out the fuel sender from the tank and checked the gauze strainer and it could not have been cleaner. Strange---no blockage. Then a frightening thought occured to me...... No....... It's not that, right.....? It couldn't be.....? Son-of-a-bitch it is!!!!!!!!!! When I pulled out the carpet at the beginning of this tranny swap I also removed the half-ass speakers a previous owner had installed. This speaker for the passenger side was installed partially over the carpet so the person drilling the screws in was doing it blind. Do you see the issue yet? Let me give you a closer look. And with everything moved. Now when I saw this I assumed the guy had put a screw through the fuel return line. My fuel return was disconnected when I bought the car so no big deal I thought. (I still found it funny enough to snap some pictures). Why did I assume it was the return line you ask? Well, honestly the idea that I had been driving around for more than two years with a #8 screw jammed into my fuel send line did not occur to me. Never even crossed my mind....until I had this fuel issue and determined it wasn't because the line was clogged. When I had my daughter put her ear near the hole and I blew into the line again, not only did she feel air rush out she said it tickled her ear. The line isn't clogged, it has a hole in it so the fuel pump couldn't pull gas. Looks like I'll be replacing the fuel line.
  14. I finished installing the exhaust. I had to cut some notches into the exit end of the header to get the flange to fit. It was still a very tight fit but it's on. The rest of the exhaust installation was a breeze. With the exhaust in I changed in the bleeder screws in the front brakes and bled the brakes. With this does I was hoping to fire the car up but no dice. I shot some starter fluid into the carb and it would run for a second or two but then nothing. I did this several times thinking I just needed to pull fuel up from the tank but that didn't seem to be happening. I disconnected the outlet hose from the fuel pump, placed it in an empty jar and had my son crank the engine but no fuel came out. Then I had my son listen by the gas tank filler with the cap off while I blew into the outlet hose. He didn't hear any bubbles coming up into the tank so it seems I have some sort of blockage in the fuel line. Any advice on how to trouble shoot the problem from here?

  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.