Jump to content

Hans

Solex
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    3,067

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

  • Feedback

    0%

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    If the rim is 1/4" from the strut, no tire will clear. Even a 1/4" of tire clearance is pushing it if you do any hard cornering.
  2. Hans
    Wheel wiggle can be a number of things. One quick way to test them is to wrap your hand around the joint, and have somebody turn the steering wheel back and forth a small amount. Or jack up the front and use your other hand to wiggle the wheel.You're looking for ANY play in the joint. A really bad one can have visible play. Better way is to squeeze with big channel lock pliers. Frankly, I wouldn't do an autocross with a questionable tie rod end. To quote Mike Millar, Any play, throw away. I don't think tightening the nut will do much unless it was loose to start with. It's a tapered end. As for pads, I think you'll find more rust on the end of the piston which is where I suspect it originated. I'd be more concerned about rust on the caliper areas where the pads slide back and forth.
  3. Hans
    And then extrapolate the distance between the access plate surface and the line in the outside? I thought there was some spec for measuring the actual level by going to the bottom of the bowl with something porous. My articles are out in the cold garage!
  4. Hans
    Hey, zinz, how does one compensate for the fuel added to the bowl when the cover is lifted and the float drops? Wasnt there some procedure using the access cover rather than main cover (a la dcoe)?
  5. Hans
    I can understand the appeal of starting with an automatic, but body repairs can easily push the costs and time line over a steep cliff, especially if you arent doing some of the work. I'd be looking for a solid body, and deal with mechanical bits from there.
  6. Hans
    The timing specs for the ti called for 39 deg max, which might have worked with 1970 spec euro premium leaded fuel. I use 33 deg max advance at 3k rpm, which equates to about 8 - 10 at idle if memory serves . As mentioned, phh prone to shaft wear and air leaks, which would affect idle. Found quite a bit of info via google. Benz 190sl group.
  7. Hans
    A remarkable collection of canisters!
  8. Hans
    Home Depot, Lowes have lots of closed cell foam tape.
  9. Hans
    What kind of half shafts does your 1600 have?
  10. Hans
    I bought a set of reflectors in Munich in 86. I'm amazed they are still available. Beautiful. Somewhere I found big QI bulbs that fit. For seal around glass cover, I used seal from Bavaria tail lights which was available then. Same stuff. SAme as CS tail light seal as I recall. Failing that , closed cell foam adhesive strip would work. You really want to keep water out of there. Can't recall what I did for side light seal. I also recommend closed cell foam around opening in body where light units sit. There should be a rubber strip that goes around the outer edge/rim of the unit trim frame. I undercoated teh back of that light compartment. Is there a drain hole in there?
  11. Hans
    I thought just the bushings were different from long neck short neck applications.
  12. Hans
    Perhaps time to consider electric pump.
  13. Hans
    I'm only familiar with older style which had a replaceable diaphragm.
  14. Hans

    did you import a ti from Victoria?

    1. Preyupy

      Preyupy

      It was not from Victoria, if I remember correctly it was out in the country north of Sumas.  I did it for a friend in CA that had purchased the car long distance.  I went into BC with a trailer and picked up the car, it turned out easier for me to import the car personally then sell it to him on paper.  The car was a restoration project (to say the least) this was at least 6-7 years ago and I'm sure it's not running yet. 

  15. Hans
    I'd start with the hoses/clamps.
  16. Hans
    Since the head was not off recently, perhaps we can eliminate the faulty upper cover milling. You might be able to get away with removing that cover, gently cleaning the surfaces with brake clean on a rag (Don't bend head gasket, just slide a folded paper towel under it), changing paper gasket and gooping all surfaces with product of your choice. Depends on where oil is getting out. If it works, maybe a few hours work.. But you risk compromising the bit of head gasket that sticks out. Pulling lower cover ups the scope creep ante, and may compromise the pan gasket. it can be done in situ, but a bit of a pig getting in there. If the head has never been off, i'd be thinking about biting more of a bullet and pulling the head for a refresh. A fresh head gasket and sealant may solve the problem without pulling lower cover. But there is the timing chain, etc......so maybe better in that case to pull engine and then pan to have a look around. You'd be better getting a full gasket set at that point. So you can quickly end up doing a full rebuild, clutch. ..... So I'd try just the cover unless you plan to keep the car.
  17. Hans
    Was the head recently off the motor for repairs? Is the leak at the corners where the covers meet the head?
  18. Hans
    OK, 25mm should have come to mind. Glad you found the problem with minimum fuss. Its worth checking your work with caliper dipstick, because of variables in gauging the gap between the float and the cover.
  19. Hans
    Re caliper check, 26 mm comes to mind. The idea is to remove the jet chimneys and put base of calipers on that flat surface. then slowly push depth rod down into bowl area until you see fuel surface wink. Use flashlight . Search for DCOE float level setting and i think you will find some pics. The carbs are on an angle, which might explain 2 and 4. Consider problems with needle valve, flooded float, setting foam floats to brass spec.
  20. Hans
    Try the dipstick method of checking actual fuel level in bowls. There are instructions on previous threads.
  21. Hans
    Read Terry's suggestion about the push rod..
  22. Hans
    you would need to figure out how much has been pruned from head. Is it off the car?
  23. Hans
    Odd coincidence.
  24. Hans
    So it worked fine before you changed the switch? And that's all you did before it hot wonky? You mean 3/4 of an inch I assume.
  25. Hans
    I got two of the latch pads a few years ago from Europe, but they require some work to cut a groove for the cross pin in the latch. I then got some at la Jolla Ind, Carl nelson. Fit perfectly. Also go the buffer things and rollers from europe; seem to be holding up.
×
×
  • Create New...