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rcf925

Solex
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About rcf925

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  1. I've had metal and glass shards drilled out of my 3 times, Twice on cars, Once in construction, All three times I was wearing safety glasses which isn't quite enough, I think face shields have the added protection
  2. What to watch for is trans temps if you have a gauge, If not you will probably get a light on the dash, If you have manual don't worry about it
  3. Just received wideband today, So will see where I'm at hopefully by weekend, I'm curious to see where I'm at also
  4. Ya keep saying this on allot of DCOE posts, but 50 or 60 WHAT. Sorry for confusion, My setup is F9, 160 air corrector jet, 60 Idle jet, 130 main, 34mm choke
  5. My emulsion tube is F9, Don't change yours yet, Just the idle air jet that pushes into bottom of idle jet holder, Takes like 5 minutes to change all four. If you have a 50, Start with increase to 55, If that doesn't help go to 60. If none of that helps just go back to what you had and look elsewhere. Jets are marked on them what they are 50,60 etc
  6. I cured same problem by changing idle air jet from 50 to 60
  7. I'm probably the odd man out here but I'd just give him his deposit back, If the buyer is the kind of person who flakes on the purchase, If he was to buy it he's also probably the kind that will end up calling you after purchase to bitch about something and make your life hell, Why not just sell to someone who will be exited to get the car
  8. Good luck with PayPal, They seem to side with buyers more than sellers no matter how wrong they are. On another note when it comes to selling cars I don't take deposits, Just full payment, I don't hold cars for anybody. You want it, Pay up
  9. Everything is new but the temp sensor which I think I'm going to replace, I've taken gauge apart and added ground wire. Usually mine is at 4 oclock but lately all over the map
  10. These water temp gauges are not very accuarate, When mines pointing to bottom of red zone on gauge radiator is at 190F Block even cooler. It depends on how good of ground on the gauge and water temp sensor. Break out an Infared and check where your really at when gauge is pointing 3 oclock
  11. Over the last 2 years I built my 68 resto-mod from the ground up. started with suspension, IE sway bars, Bilstein adj. coil overs, some poly, some rubber bushings and mounts as not to get vibration in drive train, Gertrag 245, 3.91 LSD, E21 Vented disc up front braking system including Master, Fully Balanced and blueprinted motor, Racetek forged 10:1 CR pistons . Ported head off race car, 292 cam which will shake some at idle of 900, If you bump to 1000 pretty much smooths out, dual dcoe italian 45's, Pertronix with flamethrower coil. To me I got what I wanted, A street, Track car that criuses at 80mph all day long, Plenty of low, Mid and high range torque and spins freely to 7500 and beyond. I highly recomend the balancing of rotating mass, Motor so smooth, Cheap and well worth it
  12. I bought Bosch O2 sensor. Trying to make this simple as possible so will use gauge I bought since I got a restomod anyway. I mounted my bung pretty close to where Chargin's is at 1 oclock position
  13. I found correct sensor for unit, Thanks for the help Bosch LSU4.2 part # 17014
  14. So I'm seeing a lot of 6 pin 5 wire O2's, Does that work
  15. OK, 6 it is, I have a bunch of 4 wire laying around, Figures those won't work
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