Hans

Nice looking alternator!!

The ground wire was a bit loose and I re-routed it. Also one of the wires from the radio suppressor gizmo on the back of the alternator may have touching the locking bail for the plug. Battery is 12.6 to 12.8. Just seemed odd that light faintly glowed at mid revs, not idle. Tomorrow I'll check for charging voltage while running.

After a good highway run, I noticed that the warning light was coming on very faintly for maybe a second, but oddly around say 2000 rpm. Not at idle. Not bright red. Did it a few times in traffic. Newer battery, had alternator bench checked last year, new generation regulator. Belt seems tight enough. I'll check connections once it cools down. Any thoughts?

Is 8 ft lbs going to crush a copper washer?

I'd be very careful when torquing those bolts. 8 ft lbs ain't much, Popeye. Is it weeping out under the bolt head? You could try cleaning it out and coating bolt shaft with sealant. use a flat washer under the wave washer.

But I don't have a rotor on the back.

what about going up a size? Maybe SAE will be a smaller jump. I would think the two good ones will center it.

Hey man, this Dezimade is good shit......

Rockauto has good price on rears. I had to wait 8 months for NK rears. You can call billie hq in Poway CA. Pleasant folks

Summit racing for one.

I saw that in the Billie box but assumed they were addressing lower nut, which is 34 on NK. I'm down to "squished" and will see what torque is now.

First of all, jacking up a car on an incline should never be your first choice. As I understand it, the brakes worked fine; you jacked it up, put on the handbrake and now the drum won't come off. That's different than the more common problem of the shoes rusting to the drum after storage. The missing screw would keep the drum from turning, or trying to fall off, but your problem is that neither the hub or the drum turn. Which I find puzzling if both wheels are off the ground. It should move by using a punch or that spark plug tool in the tool kit as a lever through the hole. So back to the drum. Perhaps the handbrake is stuck full on and the shoes won't retract; or, the drum is cocked on the shoes. Look at the handbrake adjuster threads in front of the handle: with the handle down, are the adjuster nuts also retracted or sticking out? If not, wiggling the cables at the back might help. This will need to resolved later. Now try to back of the brake adjusters. This may be difficult if they are rusted in place, since the normal cure requires access to the inside. So don't round the edges. Just spray with PB blaster a few times and give them a try. You may have to force the drums off. When doing any of the following, wear safety classes!! Start by beating around the drum on the area where the shoes rub. I've used a combo of whacking, then prying from the back. Just don't bend the backing plate too much. Pieces of drum have been known to break off/fly around.

adjusters are on the back on the backing plate - 17 mm as I recall look like bolt heads. But is this something new? Things don't just seize up overnight. Unless you have a limited slip, the flange should move even if the drum won't

If the wheel turned before and the parking brake application is new, seems odd. Have you tried using a punch in the hole to turn the hub back? The other alternative is to back off the adjusters to release drum. The hammer works, but more for shoes that have rusted to the drum.

do you have a torque spec for the sender?

Any ideas on torque or tightness for the nut on top of the shock rod?

OK, some tie-wrap loops did the trick. Got the bottom bushing on the stud, aimed the rod at the upper bushing hole (with spacer tube and washer in place on the rod) and cut the tie-wrap. Slide right in. Does anyone have a torque setting for the upper nut? Another hint: to get the old upper bushing out, I cut off the top with a hack saw and then pulled the rest out using a long bolt that i levered out from the bottom of the car with vice grips.

I seem to recall cutting the hose and using a socket on the fitting but yes, secure the upstream solid pipe fitting.

I'll try the cord trick. Those things are a bear to collapse.

I'd be looki g inside the pump while its out. The o rings have to be suitable for that environment.

Thanks. Problem is keeping Bilsteins collapsed. Maybe duct tape?

So I've got the car jacked up with the trailing arm supported at the point of full shock droop. The old shocks came off eth mounting stud with some tapping, but the new BIlstein doesn't want to go on the stud because of the angle of the stud. Is there a sweet spot on the height of the trailing arm where the bushing/stud angles align better?

Stock 250mm drums

Out back?