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silasmoon

Solex
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About silasmoon

  • Birthday January 31

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  1. Holding up great so far. Used them for aggressive driving both on and off dirt. Used them on highway stretches above 100, with minimal road noise.
  2. Would it be reasonable to just do this from the ignition coil? I have the relays for the horn & lights, but I am not sure how to split off from them. I don't want to cut up the original harness.
  3. Arts and Crafts time - I pulled the relay off and examined the wiring. It was not really standard. The fan works fine, but just runs even when the car is off, as its connected to the battery with a fused wire. Here is the diagram:
  4. This is an ancient thread - but I recently installed an idle cutoff solenoid on my 38/38 Weber to help with dieseling in hot weather. It didn't seem to work at all. I triple checked the pin retracted when it got power off the ignition coil, but when I placed the jet and holder into the carb, it never idled. Replacing the stock idle jet holder allowed it to run. When I examined the thread length of the screw vs. the idle solenoid, the solenoid seemed a good 1/8 shorter. The pin also seemed to block the two side holes on the idle jet. Strange. Any thoughts to getting this to work? Perhaps I just got a junk aftermarket idle solenoid?
  5. I have a fan wired up in this configuration I am pretty sure - although it stays on even when the car is off. My guess is that the thermal switch needs it power supply changed to switched power vs battery. Thoughts on how to achieve this?
  6. I always appreciate the old school C.D. Diesel posts. Half information / half collage. I haven't seen old Creighton Demarest post in a bit.
  7. Out of curiosity - what makes it such a pain in the neck?
  8. As always I greatly appreciate the help from everyone. 🙏 I need to look into alligning the output flange on the transmission as well. I live in SF and figure the parking in gear and other inclined angles aren't doing my any favors. 😆
  9. Yah - I think that is the wiser option. Do I need to be ablw to get the car four tires off the ground to swap it? I might just have a local BMW tech do it. It's pretty straight forward in terms of universal joints ya?
  10. About a year ago my guibo shredded itself. I had a well known 2002 mechanic in the CA Bay Area do the work. About 2,500 mi later the guibo bolts started backing out. I noticed as one of them started slapping my shift linkage sounding like a buzzsaw. Got the car up - and tightened about 3 of the bolts. One of them was very loose. Inspection revealed the guibo was installed with old / pre-existing bolts. My question is - should I replace the entire guibo, or can I get away with just swapping the bolts and nuts out? I also noticed that all the nuts were facing the "front" of the car, while the bolt heads faced the rear. I know they guibos are apparently directional. Thoughts? Doing a rally in two weeks, and frankly don't want to swap the guibo, since I have less than 3,000 miles on it. 😕
  11. I got it knocked out. The cast iron collector was what was actually in the way. I removed the U bolt's bolts, then removed one of the rubber stoppers so the entire arm pivoted on the other one which was loose. I then removed the other cross-member bolt, and loosened the 15mm bolt that hold the rubber transmission mount in the center. That allowed me to pivot the crossmember out from under the collector and get the bolt seated into the slot. Since the 13mm M8 8.8 was under the collector I basically just got it dad-snug with a stubby wrench, and did the same to the other side. I put 28 ft/lbs on the 15mm bolt, then tightened up the 10mm bolts on the hanger to dad-snug.
  12. Yeah the bracket is pretty shiny and new. I was thinking I could take the U bolt off to get a bit of sideways play on the exhaust, put in the missing bolt, then button it up. We'll see. My bigger question is really how solid those two bolts should be on the tranny crossmember. At M8 they seem to be there just to keep it from knocking around in the tunnel ya?
  13. Found the instructions - question though. "Press exhaust support (1) against the exhaust pipe so that it is free of tension." Does that mean to press the support against the exhaust so that the support isn't pushing it UP against the car body, or to push it up to the exhaust isn't hanging DOWN putting tension on the exhaust assembly itself?


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