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silasmoon

Solex
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About silasmoon

  • Birthday January 31

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Interests
    Tooling on my 1974 BMW R90/6 and film photography.

Recent Profile Visitors

3,188 profile views
  1. Removed the assembly by using a dental pick to loop the bolt hole from the inside. Both o-ring and top coupler appeared totally fresh. I noticed a bit of play - maybe 1mm around the pinion shaft as it sat in the shaft seal. Short of buying an entirely new pinion gear for $150, any other thoughts?
  2. Err how do you pull the housing out of the transmission body? I can pull the cable out, but that's it. I removed the retaining bolt, but there's nothing to grab onto. Note the trans is still in the car. Do I need to hit it from the other side or something? Thanks!
  3. Checked again today. The cable only pulled out of the fitting. Just the tip, nothing else, and trying to grab the fitting it didn't budge from the transmission itself. A shop just swapped the tranny and I had a little puddle after 300 miles and it sitting for a week. Curious if a bit of weeping is common? I cleaned the cable and fitting and tightened it back up.
  4. Perhaps a dumb question, but I noticed my speedo cable leaking as well. Is disassembly a simple matter of loosening the retaining bolt and pulling the assembly? Do I need to drain anything? Should it just pull out? The blue book on here wasn't much use.
  5. Howdy - My Getrag 242 on my 76' 4-Spd seems to have given up the ghost. The main shaft bearings are howling, and without splitting it open I don't really know what's up. Other than Metric Mechanic are there any other suppliers / rebuilders of 2002 transmissions for the US? I've always wanted a 5-speed, but don't have the cash on hand to really justify ripping apart the drive-train as well. I figured doing the full swap is easily another $1500 in parts alone. Silas
  6. Can you explain this a bit more? I have a whirring noise when I let my clutch out in neutral. Pushing the clutch in causes it to stop. I thought it might be my pilot bearing, but figured it could also be the input shaft.
  7. Running 45 idles on both sides. Car idles at about 900 RPMs, but the idle is a bit lumpy (cam).
  8. I've tried adjusting timing curves, rejetting, cleaning the carb, spark plugs, gaps, spark plugs cables, ignition coils, etc. Sometimes if I let the car idle a bit before shutting it off it's fine.
  9. Yeah I've had really bad dieseling for years on an engine build. 292 Cam, 9.5:1, 123 Distributor, 121 head. It doesn't always do it - but some times it really shakes for a good 3-4 seconds. I'm worried it's messing up my mounts and just shaking everything loose.
  10. Sure but only one is threaded for shutoff on the 38/38. Maybe they're only for 36/32 Weber's?
  11. So I bought a cut off solenoid, but I think the pin in the solenoid is either too long, or it's faulty. It fits perfectly on the choke side of my 38/38 and even came with a 60 jet. I use a 45. Both didn't work. It seems the pin, even when retracted, covers the bottom holes. It's on switched power, and the pin pulls back when I ground it. Anyone seen something like this before? It's apparently an Empi I got off a VW site.
  12. Holding up great so far. Used them for aggressive driving both on and off dirt. Used them on highway stretches above 100, with minimal road noise.
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