Jump to content

silasmoon

Solex
  • Content Count

    376
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    0%

Community Reputation

41 Excellent

About silasmoon

  • Birthday January 31

Profile Information

  • Gender Array
  • Location Array
  • Interests Array

Recent Profile Visitors

2,382 profile views
  1. Helmet is a Bell Bullitt. Said @josh72ooh2 Petrolicious video.
  2. Hrmm, that seems doable. I saw that a lot of people just vacuum / magnet out the shavings, but thats on exhaust manifolds. I suppose I need to yank the whole thing off to tap a port?
  3. Boots of Spanish Leather as Bob Dylan would say. Made in Spain right on it, although apparently the really nice ones are the old Italian ones. 😯 I believe it is a Redline unit, my mechanic purchased the kit with manifold during the engine rebuild.
  4. Alright - set the float to 35mm / 50mm and drove around some. Car still wanted to die, but it didn't dive bomb this time. The fog was so thick tonight you could cut it with a knife, so no time trials up Twin Peaks. I also checked the power-valve diaphragm and it looked alright. Was a bear to align back up perfectly though. @zinz I lied - it turns out the previous owner installed a Pertronix Flame Thrower 2 as the coil. The badge was on the chassis side, and I had never noticed before. Not sure if that opens any leads. I am going to try quadruple checking the timing at idle I suppose as well as play around with smaller idle jets (45s).
  5. Welp - bad news. Car still exhibits the same problems. It is seemingly intermittent. My next troubleshooting tactic is to adjust the float level to 35mm / 50mm I suppose then after that drive my car off Pier 80 into the Bay.
  6. Here are some photos of the port I use on my carb. You can see it is to the top and right of the idle mix screw.
  7. Although noting that chart doesn't show brass vs. plastic floats, where the common image shared around is this one which only has the 32/36 with plastics & brass: As far as I understand it having a float that sits too low (40mm vs 35mm) will cause the engine to stall out on a hill or during hard braking as the gas sloshes around. I routinely drive the car on insanely steep grades in San Francisco and have never (knock on wood) had it stall out on me as long as I could get it to idle. Floats being too high usually cause the carb to flood as I understand it. The 18mm from gasket to float top and 2mm float travel is echoed on a lot of other forums (Jeep, Datsun, etc.) with folks using plastic floats. I don't know if mine is the "right" way, but so far so good. 2002FAQ is easily one of the most technical automotive owner's forums I've found (look at the 123 Vacuum thread), but sometimes we suffer from an echo chamber and I will look at what other car folks are up to.
  8. The manifold has no further ports on it for hooking up the 123 vacuum connection unfortunately. Is the port on the carb really not the correct one? I thought on a 38 DGES that lone port was indeed manifold.
  9. I do too Ed, I do too. I'll let you know if Blunt can send you some Neapolitan in M racing stripes. For the record I did replace that plastic sleeve on the sender with a new one, I am running the factory black coil on a 76 with the smog equipment removed, NGK BP7ES plugs and OEM Bosch Spark Cables. The 32/36 is MIA at my mechanics still. It was pretty tired, but I should definitely go get it back. Besides if I was gonna do all the work to pull the carb off lord knows I would be installing Dual 40's
  10. Alright @'76mintgrun'02 I think you and I are on the same page about the tell-tale brake booster. So I decided to remove the hose at the booster, rather than at the manifold. The hose was basically sealed to the manifold nipple. Without the booster, driving around the brakes were like stone, but I was able to stop well enough. The car didn't die. I drove around for 15 minutes and all was well in the world. I then put the hose back in the manifold and my brakes felt incredibly soft. Like no effort at all, could push the pedal all the way to the floor. The car still stopped well enough. I should note that less than 50 miles ago I changed the front pads and calipers with rebuilt ones as well as rear drums. I also bled the brakes in the proper order with the help of another 2002'er. After reinstalling the hose I drove around and things felt pretty good, but after maybe 10 minutes I got the slight hesitation again. I pulled the rubber grommet from the inside of the brake booster (34336765316) which is the uncommon late model version. I never liked how well the brake hose and fitting sat in that grommet. It had quite a bit of play, but when I pulled the hose out it always "wooshed" so I figured it was working. This time I pulled the whole grommet out, and it was pretty tired, and tore by merely pulling it out. I taped up the booster as well I could and headed over to BMW for a $16(!) replacement grommet. The new grommet was very difficult to push into the brake-booster hole to seat it, and the elbow joint on the hose was an incredibly snug fit. I drove home, and the car didn't die at stops or even hesitate. I am not calling victory yet though, since the car has had good days and bad with this problem, and I had sprayed carb cleaner around the brake booster before. But at least it's another new part to check off the box. However a minuscule vacuum leak would fit the problem(s) I was experiencing. 1. Car dies at idle, but blipping the throttle saves it. 2. The car runs / diesels from time to time. 3. Difficulty in dialing in idle speed screw, and a varying idle. 4. A RPM gauge that "hunted" ever so slightly between 800-1100 RPMs. As always I will report back. If this fixes the issue I am buying everyone on this thread a banana split. P.S. One side note about the float level. When I got a 38 DGES Weber jetting kit, they offered a float adjustment I had never seen before. Namely holding the carb horizontally, and measuring from the base with gasket to the top of the float 18mm. Then, adjusting the float drop to that the travel of the needle was only 2mm. I have plastic floats, and it seems the consensus is 35mm / 50mm. The above settings resulted in a 40mm / 50mm which is approximately the brass float setting.
  11. Okay that is all starting to make sense now. What a extremely confusing user interface though. Regarding the port on my carb, I had figured it was still a "manifold" port, that is, below the throttle plates. I will check if my manifold has another port, but I think it's just for the brake booster. Regarding my initial question though, you made the assertion that my idle would be 45kPa unless I had a hot cam so a normal manifold vacuum gauge reading would be -16inHg (100 kPa - 55kP = 45kPa). So since a hotter cam = less vacuum at idle, would I shift the initial vacuum point up from 45kPa to 50? I can take a reading after work today if I have a port on the manifold itself. Thanks for breaking this down for me, I had no idea about the variations in these units.
  12. Going back and reading this because of an issue I am having wherein the car dies when I quickly transition from main circuit to idle circuit on my carb, and I think it has to do with some sort of odd vacuum advance setting possibly. My car pulls about 20kPa when idling due to the 292 cam it would seem. Since the 123 won't go lower than 29kPa, should I move the 46kPa point to say 30kPa? My current settings are exactly as you described and are shown below:
  13. This continues to be a complete and total nuisance for me. Warm or cold. The car will almost die when making a rapid transition from the main circuit to the idle circuit. Things I have tried thus far: Check religiously for vacuum leaks. The car will idle at 1,000 with only a *slight* hesitation in the needle. Installed a fuel pressure regulator and set it to 2.8 PSI. Set my floats to 40mm / 50mm (18mm from gasket to float horizontal with a 2mm needle travel) Moved my idle advance between 15 degrees and 18 degrees to test. Done a valve adjustment to .007 across the board on an ice cold engine. Unhooked the vacuum advance Changed my vacuum curve on the 123 to kick on at 600 RPMs with no luck and at 1500 RPMs with no luck Tried .50 idle jets / .55 idle jets and a .50 and a .55 mixture The .50 idle jets force me to screw in the idle speed screw more than 1/2 turn to keep the car running to set best idle. Weber notes this denotes the need for a larger jet. The .55 idle jets let the car idle with the idle speed screw 1/2 turn in, but the mixture screws can be tightened all the way in and the car won't die. This shows the jets being too large. The plugs looked a bit rich with the .55 surprise surprise. I have .52, .47 and .45 jets on the way. The only thing left is to ditch the 123 and try a normal mechanical distributor, but I really don't want to drop $300 on a new dizzy just to have it maybe not work. The other longshot is possibly the power-valve gasket is torn on the 38/38 and doesn't disengage during idle, but the carb is brand new. I figure if the jets and dizzy don't solve it the carb is coming apart. With a 292 cam the idle vacuum is about 5 Hg/in, due to the overlap. I believe this in part is causing the need to crank up the idle speed-screw to let in more air. Some other hot-rod forums noted that folks will drill holes in the throttle blades, but that seems excessive. :/
  14. Lord-A-Mercy looking like the Exxon-Valdez under and inside of your engine bay. Step one - get some old shirts and get to cleaning your engine bay. Otherwise it is anyone's guess as to where it's leaking. Like others said I would look at: Valve cover gasket - is it on snug? Oil filler cap - is the o-ring inside the cap old and shitty and brittle? Top exhaust studs on the exhaust manifold - were they sealed with loctite? Front cover gasket Crack in the head - say a prayer it ain't. Oil pressure gauge by the distributor Once you have the engine bay looking fresh creep under your car with a flashlight and start hunting. If you can't find anything turn the car on with the hood up and watch for oil on the exhaust manifold. If you see smoke, turn the car off and inspect the above mentioned spots. Don't drive it like this otherwise you risk burning the whole car to the ground.
  15. For sale are a pair of B- / Good condition E3/E9 mudflaps. These are the stamped BMW logo kind, and have all the hardware. They show no damage outside of some wear from being 40 years old.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.