Hans
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Everything posted by Hans
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you still running single circuit?
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beside the single circuit master
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My CS struts will take Tii calipers. I'm thinking of conversion from single circuit, but not sure what to do with the compensation valve which your ti apparently doesn't have,
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M5 would be useful in Singapore.
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Has anyone removed that thing? Consequences?
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By dimensions do you mean the depth of the receiving cup inside the rear of the cyl?
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I'm interested in finding out if the new master just bolts on using the old push rod in the booster. Does the ti have the rear brake compensation gizmo next to master?
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I got a bag of those from Summit, but they don't look at all like the originals.
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Did you replace single circuit master with dual master?
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Let us know how if tnis is a bolt on to the booster. Is it single circuit?
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I'd be using Nylok locking nuts.
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Check the upper O ring on the feed pipe. Hard to see how that could blow out. I'd look inside the pump and measure clearances. But odd that it worked, and then it didn't. Is there some way the filter can block flow?
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i too mounted a manual switch to the lip of the under dash panel so it contacts the pedal. My replacement pressure switch died quite early. Its a BMW motorcycle part now - not sure if that was an issue. I used an old toggle switch holder to mount switch. What are you putting this on?
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I was about to post the same thing. My Becker came with a box full of straps and gizmos for suppression. Still have the instruction sheet somewhere - and some spare gizmos.
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how to determine block / head deck height
Hans replied to slowpoke's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
How do you deal with the tensioner tube? -
how to determine block / head deck height
Hans replied to slowpoke's topic in BMW 2002 and other '02
Out of curiosity, if you deck the block, what do you do with the front cover? -
I like the condensor idea.
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I'd be very careful attacking the stud holes in the head with a thread making tap. Better to find a thread cleaner. Its very easy to screw up the threads with a real tap.
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The wind chill is going to get the carb below freezing at speed. Back in the day, part of the winterization ritual was to move the snorkel lever to the winter setting. Since you don't have that , perhaps the shield would help a bit. A good dose of methyl hydrate gas line anti freeze might help, but the problem is very cold air blasting by and thru the carb.
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I find it easier if you start in in on a slight angle, tehn push.
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I also have twin DCOEs and OEM pump took hours to prime them - for whatever reason. I put Facet on originally to use as a primer pump, then thought 'what the hell" and removed mechanical pump. A few seconds of ticking, and starts right up. Now, I do carry the old set-up in the trip box, and it is a bit noisier than mechanical. Whether you need that for 38/38, I don't know.
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Plastic float I assume. Then yes. With the gasket. I've seen more recommended but went for about 13. Plenty of info on doing that. I painted a line at 33 deg on pulley for use with reg timing light. Seems to me 3 turns out with Spanish dcoes is start point.
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are you sure the flywheel doesn't have a TDC mark? Or did it not have a positioning dowel? Much easier to see teh front pulley; challenge is getting a pointer attached.
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Good point. In theory....... In any event, I wouldn't sweat trying to locate new shims until I had determined there was a need. I've been keeping an eye on my trailing arms since 1976.
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There have been a number of discussions of this on FAQ. My recollection is that you don't need to do the re-calculation if you are using the original trailing arm, spacer tube and shim.
