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Hans

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Everything posted by Hans

  1. Hans
    Interesting solution. Requires some fairly precise engineering. Also, I assume flex disc was put in there for some reason....
  2. Hans
    Looks like the stock 1600/2 booster sitting in my garage.
  3. Hans
    Closer examination on an E21 head with front cover removed shows an internal cross rib is hitting the oil sprayer bar at the front- with no gasket. That one is casting number 11802600069, no date stamp. A spare valve cover stamped 1180260080.9 date 69 has lower ribs so it clears with no gasket. I'd never noticed this before with the odd cover - ran it for years. On the 121 head on the motor now, with good even transition from head to front cover, I was getting oil mist coming out the front, with correct torque. So it wasn't sitting evenly on the gasket. Or maybe the newer gaskets are thinner? Very odd - I suspect the odd one is either the original (circa 66) or from a 1600. But aren't the valve train setups the same?
  4. Hans
    No, everything stock.
  5. Hans
    maybe you can get some firewood in there
  6. Hans
    It sounds like the switch is not turning off the car when the key is turned /removed.
  7. Hans
    I would put it on. That's a long run if pipe between hangers
  8. Hans
    Its been 30 years since I restored the CS, so my memory is fading. Can anyone tell me if the wooden parts of the dash will come out without taking EVERYTHING apart and removing windshield?
  9. Hans
    This is weird. One of my valve covers that I've used before (and have of course refinished) no longer sits properly in a 121 head. It seems to be rocking on something at the front. It does however sit properly on an E21 head that has the valve train loaded. Another valve cover from the collection fits properly - doesn't rock. WTF? The first one seems to have higher ridges inside. I assumed they were all the same. They have different casting numbers inside.
  10. Hans
    what about pads getting stuck due to rust, etc?
  11. Hans
    Is there not some sort of valve in the master cyl? That said, i'd be looking at calipers.
  12. Hans
    Down Under humour. Have more respect for your fellow "colonial". I don't know how it would fare under full Canadian winter driving, but for garage queen duty, it has lasted well. I used a garden sprayer. That and a lot of seam sealer.
  13. Hans
    I used Waxoyl 30 years ago and it is still there.
  14. Hans
    I've never seen a short neck with asymmetric holes. Odd. Anyway, to clarify, I had 4 ear flange welded to front of shaft with 3 ears on rear to match long neck diff.
  15. Hans
    Keep in mind that bolt location is critical to rear alignment.
  16. Hans
    So, 02tom, what kind of diff is that??? I had 4 ear flange welded onto original 3 ear drive shaft with long neck.
  17. Hans
    Are you sure its a 228? I had six bolt flywheel and concluded it was 215. Switched cranks to get 8 bolt and 228. On another note, does NK tunnel require thumping to clear newer slave cyl??
  18. Hans
    Had teh same on Continentals. Dealer said no prob. Looks wierd.
  19. Hans
    But what about the oil pump pick up? I'm not sure it can be removed without pulling the pulley.
  20. Hans
    The new ones dont last as long.
  21. Hans
    If your flanges have just six holes in the 3 + 3 pattern, you need to find similar CV joints. Good luck. May be easier to find 10 hole flanges.
  22. Hans
    I'd be getting another alignment.
  23. Hans
    Floats at just under 13mm, fuel level about 27mm.
  24. Hans
    Tire pressure, dragging brake, old swollen rubber brake lines, strut mounts. Did the alignment show any abnormalities?
  25. Hans
    So what are the symptoms of the float being too low (gap too big)?
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