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so i was installing some new rubber fuel lines. and i bought the 5/16th ID fuel line. and taking a look at the older fuel lines. and they seem to be a much small diameter. i worry that the larger fuel line isnt letting my electric low pressure electric pump build the pressure it needs to push the fuel to my weber carburetor. my car runs with sometimes when i begin to give it throttle, it will bog down very harshly. i believe this to possibly be a not-so-well tuned carburetor. but would the different diamater fuel line make a difference? also, what is a good fuel pressure regulator for the money? right now i am not running a regulator.

Hey guys, I recently completed my engine swap (Swapped in a stroker M10 with dual sidedrafts). For a while, I had been driving the car around without issue. I had some minor issues of running one 2 or 3 cylindars at idle, particularly at cold start, but everything else was generally fine. Then, one day while I was out, I went to fire up the car and could only get 2/3 cylinders to fire. I had to limp home. I eventually found that the issue was that cylinders 3 and 4 weren't getting any fuel. Upon cracking open the weber, I found the ball bearing of the needle sitting in the bottom of the fuel bowl. It was odd to me, as I would expect that this would cause fuel to rush into the jet unobstructed. I tried putting the ball back into the needle, but that's when the carb started gushing fuel instead of lacking fuel. I ordered a new needle jet. Instead of fixing my issue, the gushing fuel continues. (Though the car WAS firing on all 4 cylinders) The air horns are on tight, and gas flows out of both #3 and #4. I am at a loss of understanding what could be going on here. What else could it all be? Mike

Im rebuilding my 32/36 and discoverd that my choke shaft binds badly due to the shaft gouging the holes way out of round. Bushings seem to be the way to go, but I've not found any references to this fix. Any thoughts on correcting these?? Thanks.

With all the swaps and builds going on, I don't think I have ever seen a thread dedicated to engine specs and dyno sheets.. Show us in pictures, the cold hard proof of what your mill is putting down. share with us the type of dyno, any specifics on engine type, engine specs, diff gearing, etc. Post baseline pulls before a build. Base line pulls during tuning, or just any pull! I think a thread of this sort would be invaluable for folks planning a motor build, motor swap, or motor build and swap. If you have never put your car on a dyno, it's thrilling.. go visit your friendly dynamometer operator today!

Hi everyone, I have 74 2002. Engine has 284 Schrick cam, 40 DCOE webers, electrical fuel pump, wallothnesch headers, E12 cylinder head (1,3mm skimmed- as i know this is the max. possible) for unleaded fuel, 2002 tii pistons, 8mm spark plugs. Engine has 5000 miles currently. My problem is that in cold start the idle is around 500-1000 but when the engine heats up (normal temperature - middle needle) the idle does not fall below 1500. I have tried o adjust them with the DCOE synchrometer but no succes. Everything is brand new except the webers (both cleaned and have new gaskets sets). . Both of them are TIPO: 40DCOE 19. I suspect that the problem is main jet, venturi size, idle jet ,pump rod........ what should be the correct weber set up , pump rod, idle jet main jet...... for this engine? It is for street modified not for racing so the idle to be between 500 and 1000 is important thanks

To those who have been looking for me for the parts and carb advice, my apologies for not being here at all. I have been so busy with my day job and my digital record label so I rarely stop by here. For the Alpina, Turbo and 02 fibreglass body panels, and DBilas tuning parts, they are always available anytime. The body panels are also available now in carbon fibre but it will cost more and it's not really practical since fibreglass is light and easier to repair. Steve used to have them listed on the FAQ parts store when it was still on the old site, it's not now unfortunately as the FAQ was getting 10% of the sales all the time and that helps in funding for this site's upkeep. So Steve if you are seeing this maybe we should have it up at the FAQ store again. Anyways anyone can find me at FB and message me if they prefer or email me directly at dapbmw at rogers dot com. Cheers!

I've installed new DCOE 151 (plastic floats) and am having the absolute worst time trying to tune them. I finally got them to run properly on the idle jets (60 F8). I'm seeing A/F numbers from my WB02 in the 13-14.5 range. I even took the mains out and drove around on just the idles to confirm these numbers. The carbs are in sync and verified with a synchrometer. The problem I'm having is that when they hit the mains, my A/F numbers go rich in the 9-11 range for anything over 1/4 throttle and more than 2,000 RPM. At WOT throttle I'm in the 12-12.3 range. I've changed the jetting from 125 mains/160 airs to 115 mains/200 airs but it doesn't make a difference. I've played with the float level starting with the recommended DCOE plastic float specs (12.5mm closed/25mm at full drop). Nothing. I've lowered the level in the bowl from 29mm from top of the machined surface down to 30mm. Nothing. After searching and reading GreenSwede's thread HERE, I thought maybe I better check my Pertronix to see if it's gapped properly. The gap was a bit large, so I brought it back to the recommended .030 and...Nothing! I even redid some of the wiring to the coil because it looked a little rough. Can you guess what happened? Nothing! Here's my current setup: 1972 2002 Stock motor with IE stainless exhaust and shorty headers Weber DCOE 151 Tii (002) distributor with new Pertronix Timing is at 30 degrees at 2,000 RPM on the OT line Pierburg (Bavaria) fuel pump Jetting: Choke 32 Main 115 Idle 60 F8 Em Tube F11 Air Corr 200 Pump Jet 40 Needle Valve 1.75 I'm running out of patience here. Someone please help I just want the car to run properly.

Hi all, i am having a very hard time trying to figure out which carburetor setup is best for me. First off, i am looking for the best speed and performance while zipping around the city and along the coast.This is NOT my daily driver but more of a weekend cruising car. What i am trying to get out of it is the most amount of speed and performance while also sounding great. I would not mind doing a few adjustments every so after as long as it doesn't constantly need to be maintained.Money for repairs is an issue so i am also looking for reliability. I currently have a rebuilt E12 head with an Ireland Engineering 284 regrind cam (.15mm valve lift) high compression with roughly 185psi pistons 89,47 (that's whats marked) electronic Crane Cam XR700 ignition Facet fuel pump and pressure regulator set at 4psi 80amp alternator Dual 45 DCOE 152 made in Spain Canon intake manifolds (just ported) top "rod mount" throttle linkage 36mm chokes F2 Emulsion tube 145 Main Jets 190 Air Corrector Idle Jets 50 f9 K&N filters From what i was told, My dual 45's are waaaay too big for this setup and I was recommended to change to the downward draft Weber 38/38 DGES. i was told this will give me much more drivability, power and performance with a lot less maintenance than what i currently have even at its best state. So my question is, even after I sync, tune, rejet and all, will i ever get the dual 45's to work at it best potential? Here are some pictures thanks in advance

Hi Everyone... I am building a turbo tribute car and looking for some help on the engine build. I am going to go with naturally asperated but trying to get 140 to 160 hp. IE has been very helpful getiing my parts list together which include all the go fast stuff, forged pistons, rods, lightened flywheel, etc. The question is the build. Not sure if I should tackle myself or find a builder. I have done most of the work on the build but have never rebuilt an engine. I have a quote from a local guy here in Phoenix for $2500 plus the cost of the machine work, estimated at $1000. Bringing the total to $3500 plus parts. I guess I have three questions: 1. Does anyone have a recommended engine guy in Phoenix? 2. Is the quote I received reasonable? BTW this guy races BMW's and builds race cars for clients. 3. Should I try to do the engine my self Oh, one more want to go with Dual Webers but looking at performance/Cost trade off. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for the advise! Chris

Hello! Recently I bought an orange 2002ti here in Sweden from an old man for 2000 dollars. The car has been standing in an garage since 1988! I knew nothing about the car before I saw it, didn't know the status or even the color. I only knew he asked for 2000 dollars so my expectations was certainly not high. But when I arrived and saw it for the first time I almost threw my money to the seller! The condition was unbelievable! 100% rust free. The original orange paint job! The orange color is my favorite one. The chassis is in top condition. The old man tells me that he bought the last ti from BMW in sweden and he bought special undercoating directly from bmw he says. He was the only previous owner so I'm the second owner! The interior is mostly original, in the 70s the drivers seat was replaced to a sport seat. Have never seen anything like it! The original seat is left as you can see laying on top of the passenger seat. Wrapped with seat covers. The steering wheel is kinda cool and I also got the original one. But there was a reason that the car has been standing for 26 years. The engine is broken he says. In the 70s he tuned the car with dual weber 45, 300° camshaft, race headers and much more. Never catched all the details! I remember that he said that the radiator is leaking so that has to be replaced too. So the chassis is in top condition but the engine needs a complete rebuild. I suspect that a lot has to be done since it has been standing still for 26 years! I have never worked on this engine or car before so I'm reading a lot on these forums So what do you all think? Was it a good buy for the price? Any tips and suggestions where I should start?

so i was searching to find a used lynx intake manifold and stumbled upon this on jam engineering. will this work? thinking about getting rid of the 38/38 i have....

Still a newby here but after reading several topics on carbs in here I wanted to see if there was any interest in a group buy on Weber 45 DCOE's. I have a good supplier, the manufacturer, however need to purchase a minimum of 12 units. Having just gone thru bilateral hip replacements for the second time I am a couple dollars short of buying and reselling these carbs by myself. I am just using this as a feeler to see if anyone is interested. The price will be right around $350 per carb, need two for a 4 cylinder or 3 for a six, shipped to your door. This will be on the Weber 45 DCOE although I can also get the 40's. They have air horns and do not come with the linkage or manifold. If there is enough interest I can get a quote on linkages and manifolds. Some of those buys are a little larger. Let me know if you are interested at $700 or under per set of carbs shipped to your door and I will go from there. John

Twin 45 DCOEs, ignition on, electric fuel pump working, fuel drips from #2 barrel venturi locking bolt on bottom of carb. So fuel is getting into the barrel. I haven tested fuel pressure yet, but float levels were adjusted recently. Needle valve?

Hello 2002 FAQ, I am currently running Weber DCOE 40's on my 1976 2002 with an Ireland Engineering manifold, which does not have a port for the vacuum advance line to the distributor built in. IE put a 5/16"-24 tapped hole on the underside of the manifold with a plug in it, so this is the best option to run a vacuum advance line. However, no one makes a fitting that goes from the 5/16"-24 size to the BMW 3.5mm ID vacuum line size. I am going to machine a custom fitting that will work (drawing attached), if anyone else is interested let me know and I can put together a few extra 'kits' (price to be determined), including o-rings and cut-to-length vacuum line. (My car has its emissions control removed, so the line will run directly from the manifold to the distributor, bypassing the magnetic valve). Thanks, John 2002_dcoe_vacuum_adapter.PDF

So this is my first post here and will definitely not be my last. I bought a 76 2002 from a guy in Austin (via Houston) and had a blast driving it back to Austin, all over Austin, then ultimately back to Dallas. The car is in great working order and I didn't have a single issue after putting just over 600miles on her in three days. However I have noticed that a very strong gas stench is coming from the Webers that are on there and when driving to work the past couple days it seems to be getting a bit worse. It starts fine and runs very strong however I would like to address any issue that it has now rather than later. Does anyone have any suggestions on what can be done? It seems to be tuned just fine as I don't have any issues starting in the morning or after stopping and starting (ie: running in to the store to get champagne after driving back to Austin). Below is the full description the seller had on CL, for reference. "I am reluctantly forced to part with this wonderful example of the world's first bona fide "sport sedan" due to a personal relocation to Central America. This beautiful car has had over $30K worth of loving care spent during its life, with records running back to 1976 that document it's mileage at 151,000. An older properly done re-spray in the correct Verona Red shows little wear and still gleams. There is absolutely no structural rust on this car, although there is a very small area of paint bubbling below the drip rails above the rear pillars and some on the driver's door, all minor surface rust issues. There's a small paint chip adjacent to the front Roundel emblem on the hood, a minor bulge above the left rear wheel well, some wrinkling at the top of the left front wheel well, and some hood spot repairs nicely done and hard to see (see pictures). Overall, the body is in remarkable condition for a 38 year old car, and a real head turner. The black interior is in remarkable condition for its age, with excellent door cards, 320I Recaros, re-padded rear seat, no rips or tears in the original headliner, and excellent carpeting. The sunroof works perfectly with no leaks; the windshield has been recently replaced and shows virtually no pitting or cracks. A Blaupunkt Montreal AM/FM CD player with four Kenwood speakers provides the tunes. Fitted with a Mark IV A/C as designed by the John E. Mitchell Company, which many consider as the finest engineered A/C conversion available for 2002's, with its high capacity evaporator fan and large evaporator it not only REALLY cools the interior, but as a result of the incorporation of a Sanden 508 compressor and the motor's substantially increased power over stock (details below) it is difficult to tell when it's in use, performance related or otherwise. Additionally, the substitution of a 320I radiator and a powerful Bosch condenser fan means that there are no engine overheating problems, even during Texas summers. The compressor, condenser fan, dryer, and hoses are all new as of 3-28-2014. All suspension, steering, and driveline components are tight, solid and as new. The combination of a Turbo air dam, Bilstein sports shocks and struts, and Korman Roadsport (1/2" lowered) springs, along with fresh urethane sway bar bushings, provides a perfect combination of handling and comfort, and, this car tracks like an arrow on the highway as well, even in strong crosswinds. The engine (original block) was completely rebuilt by Korman about 45K ago, with 10 to 1 pistons, a 272 degree cam, a ported and polished E-21 head and twin Weber DCOE 40 carbs, headers, a Stainless Steel Ireland Engineering exhaust system (headers back, including muffler), and runs perfectly. It has no problem idling with the A/C operating, still pulls strong at lower RPMs while delivering a significant power increase over stock in the middle and high RPM ranges. An electronic ignition has been installed along with a 320I alternator, a new battery, and there are no oil leaks. A new clutch and pressure plate was installed about 12K ago, and the transmission shifts perfectly. There are new (4K) Korman vented rotors, calipers, and pads, and Falkan 195/60 tires (3K) mounted on rash and corrosion-free 320I "bottle cap" wheels, which complement the car beautifully. The original invoice, two owner's manuals, service manual, a Chilton manual, and a complete maintenance history with receipts are also all preserved, as is the original 2002 spare part kit. A box of additional spare parts is also included. The car has current Texas Vehicle Registration and Inspection stickers as well. This car is fully sorted and ready for use as a daily driver or a cross country trip, and draws an incredible amount of attention by all ages, especially from Bimmer-heads. Plus, it is such a blast to drive!!!"

Hi all, Need some help, 1974 Base (04/74). Got the intake off the motor (what a pain) and am in the process of cleaning things up. All of the emissions stuff (magnetic solenoids, EGR, etc) disconnected by P.O. so removing that as well to clean up the bay. Changing out to Cannon manifold with 38/38, electric choke. So question is, what is the standard practice for this conversion for the sensors and wires in relation to choke operation? I've searched and have not found anything related to it. I have not actually looked into anything in the service manual as of yet though. So far I have this: HARNESS FROM ABOVE BRAKE BOOSTER TO MANIFOLD: (closest to firewall, going out) black / red (SW RT) = Starter Solenoid brown / black (BR SW) = Coolant Sensor bottom of intake manifold green / white (GN WS) = Unsure. Pic below for reference, anyone know what it is? green / blue (GN BL) = Choke brown / black (BR SW) (2x) = Air Temperature green / white (GR WS) = Idle Cut Off Solenoid The biggest questions I have is will the choke still work? I've sourced the following and will be installing soon or do I just leave disconnected: - Bypass neck with dual ports - relocate coolant sensor from below the manifold to right next to the one shown in the pic (upper left). - Thinking of relocating the air sensor to the starter bracket (hole that bolted to manifold, drill and retap, left side of starter in pic). - 10x1.5 plug for block, passage from carb to block (mid right in pic). - What is switch in picture on carb? Not sure how to resolve. - Waiting for manifold off ebay that has lower cover to add to Cannon manifold. - Going to source Tii distributor to eliminate vacuum. Am I on the right track or lost as hell? Thanks. Pat http://www.bmw2002faq.com/_/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/weber-downdraft-carburetor-installation-guide-r35

So.. My bad or the shop's, I got the wrong E-tubes. I got the tip to try F66 on my 38, and ordered. (Along with a 3.0 fuel pump). Anyhow, I just noticed that I got two F60 E-tubes. They seem (http://www.webercarburatori.com/?p=handbook&s=2) to be more like F66 than the current F50 considering the positioning of the holes, and the F60 has a smaller outside diameter (more room around = more fuel for high RPM?) - and the F60 seems to have an open bottom end, as well as a hole on the side very far down the tube.. But, they differ by 0,5 mm in height. That seems odd, even though they´re both 61440.XX tubes. Should be the same. So, anybody that can shed light on the matter? Need I bother trying these?

I just got my wideband o2 sensor and gauge installed yesterday and I'm glad I did. Engine is running lean at all throttle positions & engine speeds (15-17). Most disturbing is that with fast application of throttle, the gauge indicates near full lean. If I roll on the throttle slowly, it stays steady but when I make a quick stab at the throttle, the Afr spikes to 20. I posted some photos of the plugs a while ago and consensus was that I'm running a bit lean. Here's the photo again. I'm a bit skeptical of the readings, so including this as an additional data point. I'm going to rebuild and reject the carb while I install a sync link next weekend using ryansti's jetting as a baseline. Just wondering if there's anything else I should look at. Accelerator pump delivers a good stream of fuel when I open the throttle. I'm getting good manifold and ported vacuum. Anything external to the carb I should be checking while I wait for the rebuild kit? I was fighting with a few exhaust leaks when I installed a new system recently. I think I've tackled them all but if exhaust leaks could cause or contribute to this (or create false lean readings), I'll go back and check again. Header and downpipe are new now, too. New gaskets throughout. Thanks!