FB73tii

Oh man--thanks for the clarification! I thought you meant something like this. (Tasted funny and gave me a headache)

While it might be "correct" to resurface the head slightly, when I used cutting rings on my tii I have replaced them with other cutting rings with no resurfacing and have not had a problem.On my 11.0:1 engine I just used a stock gasket and it was fine, so cutting ring is likely overkill for the tii. --Fred (PS., good to see the photo of Bruce in your toher thread, it has been some years since I last saw him)

Thanks, for the post, I need to do this. Was planning on using an oil pressure sender setup, this is easier. Here's some current prices and sources: BMW E21 320i fuel pump relay 12631277245 $107.95 @ BMW List $79.57 @ Husker BMW $34.95 @ vwparts.aircooled.net (5-pin) $23.20 @ RM European $21.74 @ eeuroparts.com

A little JB weld and you are good to go

Looking for an M10 valve cover with a raised filler cap neck with bung for vent tube. Below is a photo of one Bob Breed had made some time ago. Contact me via PM, shipping to 20901. Many thanks! --Fred Location: Maryland

One of my favorite sources, Engine Builder Magazine (www.enginebuildermag.com), just happens to have an article on this (linked below). I also find a lot of useful engine stuff in Circle Track magazine (www.circletrack.com). Rob--you may find this article interesting as well: Pistons & Rings: Details every engine builder should know http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2007/02/pistons-rings-details-every-engine-builder-should-know/ "Scuffing is often the result of overheating, but loss of lubrication, detonation and preignition can also be contributing factors. When an engine runs hot, the pistons swell. This reduces the clearance between the piston and cylinder walls. The cylinder bore can also distort adding to the problem. If the piston scuffs, it will wipe metal off the side of the piston. Where the scuffing occurs will give you a clue as to what might have caused it. When overheating is involved, the scuffing will be primarily on the upper ring lands and on the sides near the wrist pins. There may also be oil carbon and lacquer burned onto the underside of the piston indicating it got too hot. Scuff marks on the lower skirt area often indicates a lack of lubrication (check the oil pump and pickup screen). Scuff marks on the edges or corners of the thrust sides of the piston may be the result of bore distortion. Scuffing on both thrust sides would indicate binding in the wrist pin. Normal wear also takes its toll on pistons. The constant pressure and reciprocating motion in the cylinder bore causes wear on the piston skirt as well as the wrist pin bosses and ring lands. Elevated temperatures and high loads cause microwelding between the rings and lands, resulting in rapid land wear. Sometimes a wrist pin will work loose and chew into the cylinder with each stroke of the piston. The underlying cause here may have been improper installation of the retaining lock rings on a full floating wrist pin, improper fit or installation of a pressed-in wrist pin, a twisted or bent connecting rod, excessive thrust end play in the crankshaft or taper wear or misalignment in the crankshaft rod journal." Here's another article. It's about small engines, but still applicable. Reading Pistons http://www.theultralightplace.com/pistons.htm

The rod angle changes as the piston goes up and down, applying sideways (thrust) load to the piston. The piston rocks a bit in the bore, and takes more load on the thrust side (piston pushed down under combustion) than when it is coming back up. Eventual scuffing is normal, excessive is cause for concern. If you have the head off and one piston at the top of the stroke, you can rock it slightly about the wrist pin axis with minimal pressure. When building a race engine, where valve-to-piston clearances are very close, this rocking must be measured with a dial gauge and taken into account to avoid VP contact. --Fred

I just came across this article on a tube frame 2002 with turbo M12/7. The engine is so far back in the body it is hard to see. An amazing story! FEATURE: BMW 2002 – A Winning Formula Posted by Blake Jones × January 14, 2014 at 3:11 am http://sehrgute.com/feature-bmw-2002-a-winning-formula/ Here's a few photos of many in the article:

Rob--I am no piston expert, but it seems to me that any piston with a fair amount of use will show some scuffing. That said, the one in your photo does look pretty used up. Are they all like that? It seems a good "hack" fix would be to wet-sand out the scuff marks with some 400 grit, hone and re-ring and call it good. But I've never done that, so don't take my word for it. Will be interested to hear what others have to say that have BTDT. --Fred

IIRC, you can remove the pulley from the alternator, then it will come out without having to mess with the sway bar. --Fred

1) yes, the divider shares a gasket with the #1 intake port 2) you can remove the divider without removing the manifold 3) However, if the gasket is damaged when removing the divider, you need to pull the entire intake manifold off the studs to clean up the old gasket and install the new one. At that point, good chance the other three intake gaskets will be damaged, so plan on replacing all four. Pitted water dividers are fairly common, though I've never had one so bad that it leaks. An option would be to dry it out and apply JB weld to fill in the pitted area. After it dries, reattached the hose and see if it still leaks. If not, you are good to go. If it does--new divider and four gaskets. BTW, the water divider can be difficult to get off of the long stud, try to clean out as much corrosion as you can and then use some penetrant on it. --Fred

What, doesn't everyone's living room look like this? But Honey, I told you I was going to clean the car!

Thanks, Mike. Good chatting with you offline about the air horns. So here's the update: I've had the slide, air horns and full wiring harness since last Spring. The engine they go on was finally finished and is sitting on an engine stand in my living room. I said I would get it to the dyno by the summer and that is still true, I am just not saying what year that will be . It is sad but I have have not been able to get back to this project, and I have decided to work all of the bugs out of the '69 DCOE car before going back to this. At least I will get some track time with that one. Finishing the project is mainly plumbing: electrical, exhaust, fuel system, dry sump oil system, and air intake. At least I can show a photo of the wiring harness and dry sump mount. Also, since I like the lightweight aluminum JBR flywheel on the '69 so much, I went for a lightened billet steel flywheel for this engine. The entire flywheel and clutch-pak assembly weighs only 11 lbs! Man, I got to get back to this project! --Fred

Speaking of movies from 1973, I just came across this car chase from a movie called "Tony Arzenta" (1973). Fast forward to 5:35 to see a Neue Klasse in a short car chase. Shows a wood grain interior. Looks like vertical taillights, but hard to see. It caught my eye as my family used to have a yellow 1963 Citroen Station Wagon. There must be a thread or webpage for all 2002/NK-related movies, but I didn't find it in a quick search. This thread seemed the most appropriate one! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vf7rqRBIC8g

Thanks to Garry for mentioning and Rocan for posting the video link. I like the video, including the subtle flash of the headlights between the cars. Well I haven't read that thread and won't, as it has no clear 2002 (or even automotive) content in the title. Not getting down on the O.P., but I just don't have time to click on threads that do not clearly state the subject. Perhaps someday I will start a discussion on this peeve of mine in a different post. It might be titled something generic like "Should I....?", which will ensure at least 500 hits or so.

I like this approach. My thoughts are: 1) if it ain't broke, don't fix it 2) if you can break it (ala KFunk), fix it 3) if you know its broke (high leakage past rings), fix it by rebuilding the bottom end. If it is running well, it will likely do that 3,000 mile trip and many more no problem. Then again, if the rings are really shot and even broken, it may puke.One time at the Glen I started getting a ton of smoke past the breather tube and oil puking into the overflow. We had a long trip home to Boston and I had to add many quarts of oil to make it home. When I pulled the pistons *all* the compression rings were shattered into several pieces. Perhaps due to the fact that I did my whole track event before driving home. Amazing it still ran. BTW, I am with Ray. Fix that extra cylinder and you'll have 25% more HP! --Fred

Do you drink that with a straw?

I always thought that first the head warps due to overheating, then the gasket blows because the head is no longer holding it in place. But perhaps it also possible for the gasket to fail for some other reason (detonation?), and then cause the overheating (due to coolant loss) and subsequent head warpage. --inquiring minds want to know! BTW, a crack in the head, typically between the intake and exhaust valve seats, will cause loss of compression. Such a crack could happen without the head having warped. Clean the head up and inspect, and/or have it pressure tested for leaks.

Why bother? Do you have a problem with them running dry with hand-packing in endurance races? --Fred

I looked into SSR 3-piece rims at one point. Why not buy direct from the source rather than used on e-bay? Price is about the same, they list many different offsets for the rims. And why would someone put BBS stickers on SSR rims...tacky. http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/fm.asp SSR Wheels Owned and Operated by Tanabe USA, Inc. 1849 Western Way Torrance, California 90501 I put this history together some time ago. Their website now says founded in 1971. 1982: Founded in Ikeda-city, Osaka-prefecture, Japan 2003: Tanabe USA Inc. established in Torrance, California 2005: Acquired Speed Star Racing Wheel Co.

There is a way with solid rotors, likely discussed here some time ago. Imagine taking a soup can and cutting a slot in the middle of it so that it fit over the rotor. Attach hose to can and have can overlap rotor by only 1/2 a can diameter. That way cooling air will flow on both sides of the rotor. You could fabricate up something nicer, but that is the idea. I took my front dust shields off years ago and never put them back on. That was when it was a street car and I never had any issues. Now I have 2-piece vented rotors and direct the cooling air into the center of the hat, that way it flows out through the vents.

Yes, there is a later one-piece water neck that works, I have a few. I believe they are used with the larger diameter hose as mentioned above. I have pulled several one and two-piece water necks out of heads and have never seen the #16 "O-ring". It has always been a crush washer, and that is what I use. --FB

Matt--Installing a tii engine in a non-tii is not that hard. Different throttle linkage, add an electric fuel pump, route high pressure fuel through metal line under car and return through the plastic line. Purchase a warm-up relay or and add a wiring harness for the cold start solenoid, or just do a push button as has been discussed here. The KF pumps are robust (mine did well over 300K miles without ever being touched) and linkage setup is simple once you understand it. Buying an engine whole as you suggest instead of piecing it together from parts is more cost-effective. Also, the standard 2002 block does not have the KF oil return pipe, though it could be added. Upside is 130 HP stock compared to 100 HP stock 2002. Downside is that you can't modify much past 150 HP without getting into some $$ due to limitations of the stock KF pump. I'll certainly agree that modern EFI gives you more options and better fuel/spark control, but a tii engine set up properly is a very nice engine. Cost: Depends on if you are looking for "brand new", freshly rebuilt, somewhat used or very used. I would suggest setting your budget and expectations and then seeing if there is something available that meets your price point. Not a quantitative answer, but saying somewhere in the range from free to to just shy of $6K-$10K (if you could find a factory NOS complete engine) is not that helpful either. The "heart" of the tii engine is the KF fuel pump, which costs $700-$1000 to rebuilt, plus the cost of a core. Add the mechanical injectors (which even used are not cheap), a throttle body in good condition, the intake plenum and manifold and the tii front cover and you will see there is quite a bit of cost involved in a tii engine beyond the basic M10 head/block that any 2002 engine will require. At some point, depending on your budget and if you prefer to play with mechanical (old school) or electronics, considering modern EFI makes sense. If I went electronic I would do individual throttle bodies (ITB). I have such a project under way, but it is taking a while to complete. Source: Again, depends on what you want. Ranges from junkyard to parts car to 2002FAQ/E-bay to contact a BMW 2002 specialist engine builder. Are you still doing the M20 turbo project as well? Best of luck--Fred

Send your friend a link to this post and let him/her make their own decision. (ah, I see Maurice beat me to it. so +1 for above) BTW, I have no stake in this game, never having dealt with Bryce. That said, I would consider ordering from him, with the knowledge that it could take some time to get the order filled. It seems there are often issues with automotive parts suppliers, new or used. I now try to order critical parts 6 months in advance, and this includes from a major supporter of the FAQ. This gives time for (a) one month for order to be "lost" and me to follow-up. Another month or two to return the new parts that were wrong or defective. And another month or two of slip time. I have learned that when receiving parts (particularly high-end engine parts) that I have to ASSUME that the part is wrong or defective. Only after convincing myself otherwise can I install it. This has been learned the hard way and at great expense. So, no matter who you deal with, and despite best of intentions, there can always be issues, so learn to plan for them. That does not excuse poor communication--To be clear, I am neither trying here to defend or support the supplier in question, simply sharing my own experience in buying parts from a distance. --Fred

Yes, there is an assembly, held in by the set screw, I believe. If it is in there then you will see a hole the diameter of the end of the speedo cable. Once the cable is in it is held by the set screw in the groove on the speedo cable tip. If the assembly is missing you will see a bigger, deep hole. The assembly is something like parts 18-22 in the image below (Real OEM, 320 5-spd.)