FB73tii

I've found sealant on a few end caps I've removed. Don't know if the factory ever used it, but no harm in a bit of sealant (RTV) to keep them from leaking. I don't do that on mine though, never had an issue. --Fred

Some may call the inner race of a CV a "star gear". I wrote spider gear when I wasn't thinking. Yes, I know spider gears are in the diff. Here's a spider gear in the wild--courtesy of Etsy:

X2 on the recommendation^^. There are two types of 2002 front subframes--those that have cracked, and those that will. The driver's side engine mounting "ear" typically cracks about halfway down, starting either at the front or rear. Then both front and rear develop cracks, and grow toward each other over time. Here's a link to photos of how I did mine: Front subframe reinforcement and steering box clearance http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/105556-front-subframe-reinforcement-and-steering-box-clearance/

Yes, you will likely damage them. This has been covered in other posts ...."do a search" EDIT: I did a search on "CV joint removal tool" and most of them look like gear pullers. But I still prefer a slotted pipe to support the star gear. Cheaper, easy to make, and no stress on the cage at all. What----you did not read the link I provided in the link that I provided above ? Here it is again: CV clocking and axle orientation http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm I don't recall the BMW factory manual including this procedure, likely not needed to to low misalignment in a street car. A dune buggy with lots of suspension travel is another matter.... Yes, I know this was discussed in previous threads. I have never worried about it and have never snapped a half-axle. When I built my hybrid 2002/E21 axles I just got bare axles and slapped on the CV's, no way to tell what orientation the axles had been in before. There, I used three emoticons in my reply! Must be moving into the 21st Century here.....Fred

Yeah, sometimes the CV slips off easily, but more often they are really on there. I'll have to look at some spider gears when I get home. As I recall the side that faces out (toward the hub or diff flange) may have a small raised portion like the one in your photo, so that looks normal to me. But on the the inside, facing the opposite CV, there can be a much deeper shoulder. Not really a "bevel", but an extension. I'll see if I can find a photo. As long as it is put back together correctly you are fine. The angle of the axle with respect to the perpendicular to the hub or diff flange is small. When you wobble it by hand you are likely creating a much larger angle. EDIT: Here an image showing the extension in the inside that some gears have. This is not a BMW CV, BTW. As i recall the gears between the 2002 and E21 are slightly different. I use a 320i axle with 320i inboard CV and 2002 outboard CV for my E21 LSD. --Fred

There should be no binding in the normal range of motion, but bear in mind that when you are moving the joint around by hand this is likely different than what it experiences in place. If you extend or compress the joint by hand then it will bind up a bit when you move it, but that is the only time I noticed any issue. Hopefully the cage was not damaged during disassembly. How did you remove the CV from the axle? I use a 6" section of pipe with a 1" slot cut in it so the axle can slip inside it. Then put the assembly in a big vice and the pipe supports the inner star gear. Finally, drive the axle out of the star gear using a strong punch and BFH. If the CV is instead removed by whacking on the outer portion it can damage the joint. Are you sure that you aligned the inner gear and outer CV correctly? I don't even know if it will go together if the alignment is not correct, but that is something to check. The thin part of the star gear align with the thick part of the CV rims. Also, check that the gear was installed correctly on the axle per the images below, with the shoulder of the gear on the inside. Otherwise, as long as you put it all together the way it came apart, including placement of the bellville washer if your axle had one (some do, some don't depending on style--2002 or E21) you should be fine. Rotate the axle when installed to ensure no binding. Here are two important images from: http://www.outfrontmotorsports.com/cv_assembly.htm --Fred

Since your boots are dry and cracking replace them now. Rebuilding the CV's is cheap--the cost of grease and the boot kits. Some even come with the grease. If you wait until the boot tears then grit will get into the CV's and if it goes on too long you'll be looking to replace them. New CV's are hard to find and fairly expensive. Used CV's are available and you already have four! Do it now while everything is apart. If you need tips on how to disassemble and reassemble the CV's just ask. The thread below has tips and links to good references--Fred What Is A Dead CV Joint? http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/135048-what-is-a-dead-cv-joint/

dave--glad to help! --Fred Mike--right you are! I should have added that to my list. In my experience the bolts all back out at the same rate, then let go all at once. There is very little time between a detectable clunk and them letting go, like 1 mile at 25 mph or less (don't ask). If the CV comes loose it the stub axle will flail around, bashing various things. I had that happen and it broke my rear diff cover. Call me paranoid, but now I use grade 12.9 bolts, loctite, torque to spec, safety wire, and anti-tamper paint to tell if they are breaking loose. No problems since I started doing that

A lot of things can cause a rear clunk--can you say more about the sound and when it happens? Is it a bang and a shudder, a light click, or something else. Common suspect is the exhaust hitting the rear subframe or under body. Main subframe mount bolts can be loose. CV's could be going, diff could have an issue, bowling ball could have gotten loose, etc. Does if happen more when shifting, braking, going over a bump? Does it happen in reverse? I've had them fail two ways--either the splines strip and the axle just spins within the flange and the nut still holds the wheel on, or the stub axle just snaps at the base of the splines and off comes the wheel. In the first case I think the way they fail is the stub axle becomes elongated and two things happen--the nut which was torqued to 250+ lb-ft becomes loose and allows play between the splines and flanges, wearing them out. Also the spline diameter may be a bit less due to elongation, contributing to the play. However, I have measured a stub axle I knew was failing to a brand new one using a caliper and micrometer and could not detect any dimensional differences. In the first case, the thing to do is check that the 36mm nuts are tight on the axle. If they are hard to break free, they are tight. If they are loose, or if the wheel wobbles (!), the stub axles are suspect. If the flange is hard to pull off of the stub axle that is good, and when you inspect they splines they will likely look fine. If the flange comes right off the stub axle, then the splines are suspect should be inspected for wear. That said, when I bought new stub axles and tii flanges a few years ago, the flanges went right onto the axles without having to be banged home. Not so sure about the root cause of snapping axles--could be elongation from fatigue, or could just be a localized fatigue fracture. I've never had mine magnufluxed but that would be a way to check for cracks. But if your car has say 300,000 miles on it (like mine did), or if it is tracked and autocrossed heavily, buying new stub axles is good for both safety and piece of mind. As I have posted elsewhere, they can be had at reasonable price from online BMW parts sources. It is the flanges that are getting pretty expensive. Yes, you can generally rotate the driveshaft back and forth a bit before the wheels turn due to the lash between the pinion and crown gear in the differential. If you were to hold the wheels from rotating you would also see or feel a slight bit of movement in the CV joints as the working tolerance was taken up.

Gee, thanks Andrew . I had just finished reading the history of 800+ c.i. Mountain motors before I saw this post, so my head was off in the high octane. Also read an article about a 1928 Ford Model A 2-door based rat rod/hot rod with 1900 HP--way crazy. Finally, I recently installed a GM Performance crate 383 stroker in my tow vehicle. Yes, I am a bit nuts. Just lighten a 2002 to 2000 lbs and give it 200 HP and it will scream! The History of Mountain Motor Pro Stock http://www.competitionplus.com/drag-racing/news/19695-the-history-of-mountain-motor-pro-stock Uncle Jed http://www.speedville.com/meet-uncle-jed-a-robert-killian-creation-aimed-to-run-200-plus-mph-2/

C'mon, a 302 is a small block I am not against engine swaps and there are various ones that have been discussed here. It is really down to how much money you want to spend and what you want to achieve. If you want a performance car, it has to handle and brake well, and likely a V8 of any type will upset the balance, unless it's moved pretty far back. My engine shop had a small displacement aluminum Ferrari V8 for cheap that I briefly considered, but when I considered all that would be involved in making it work I kept walking. To your questions above, everything will be custom and of course you will have to have a oil pan fabbed, transmission tunnel and firewall modified, etc. The real question is what are you trying to achieve? We know one can do 700 HP with an M10 and a monster turbo. And if you put in a ton of power you are going to need to do serious mods to every single system to handle the load. As said above, you'll want a full cage or tube frame, drive train that can handle the torque from clutch to wheel studs, beefy suspension that won't just snap off, big fat tires and massive brakes. Add to that fixed racing seats, 6-point harnesses and various other items. If you want real power, you get into tens of thousands of dollars very quickly. If I were to do it I would look for the smallest displacement and lightest engine that would hit my power rating. Then consider if going NA with a carb, EFI, or forced induction. A quick search yields a nice 302 for you--the Edelbrock Supercharged 5.0L Ford Coyote Crate Engine #46770 with 700HP and 606 ft-lb. for only $21.6K. You might need to add a "power bulge" to your hood for this one .

Good link. Was about to go find that one and post it myself. Have been running a master link chain for years--old style with two-hole plate and one long circlip (if you could call it that) that bridges the master and it works fine. No qualms doing this on race engine that revs to 8000 RPM. After reading about potential issues with the new style I would not use it, even if it works for other marques. If in doubt, run a no master chain.

That looks like an M6x30mm bolt, P/N 07119913575. Found on the tii on the support bracket between the KF pump and the oil filter housing. #4 in the diagram 13/32. If is an M6x35mm it would be for the front of the valve cover. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=2583&mospid=47141&btnr=13_0683&hg=13&fg=15&hl=5 BTW, just because it is on the intake side that does not mean that is where it came from, unless it was you that rebuilt the engine and know there were no missing bolts. It is easy to drop a bolt and have no idea where it ended up landing, only to find it months later.--"Aha, that is where that sucker went" --Fred EDIT: Here's my list of possible M10 engine fasteners. Some additional bolt sizes included for completeness. Feel free to post corrections/additions. hex bolt………M6X16-8.8 ZN………7119913466 hex bolt………M6X18………7119913472 hex bolt………M6X20………7119913477 hex bolt………M6X25………7119913483 hex bolt………M6X28………7119913484 hex bolt………M6X30………7119913575 hex bolt………M6X35………7119901189 hex bolt………M6X40………7119912310 hex bolt………M6X45………7119912327 hex bolt………M6X50………7119912337 hex bolt………M8X20-ZNS………7119901120 hex bolt………M8X22………7119913652 hex bolt………M8X25………7119913657 hex bolt………M8X28………7119908317 hex bolt………M8X28-ZN………7119908368 hex bolt………M8X30-ZN………7119913662 hex bolt………M8X35………7119913676 hex bolt………M8X45………7119912506 hex bolt………M8X50………7119912516 hex bolt………M8X70………7119912800 hex bolt………M8X90………7119912567 hex bolt………M10X18………7119913876 hex bolt………M10X25………7119913834 hex bolt/washer………M6X16-Z1………7119915039 hex nut………M6-8-ZNS………7119922832 hex nut………M8-ZNS………7119922856 aligning dowel………D=10.5MM………11121726238 aligning dowel………D=14.5MM………11111743118 cap nut………M6-Z1………11121720113 circlip………5………7119932832 circlip………6………7119932842 coolant plug, left………M10………11111254189 coolant plug, right………M14X1.50………7119919228 crush ring………A10X13.5-AL………7119963073 crush ring………A12X15.5-AL………7119963130 crush ring………A14X18-AL………7119963200 crush ring………A22X27-AL………7119963355 crush ring………A30X36-AL………7119963466 crush ring………A36x42-AL………7119963467 flat washer………A10.5X25………64521350824 flat washer………A6.4………7119931044 gasket ring………A6.5X9.5-CU………7119963034 gasket ring………CU-dist cover bolt………12110002735 lock tabs………………11520786160 oil galley plug………AM12X1.50………7119919225 (alternate size 14X1.50) O-ring………distributor………12118530508 rocker shaft circlips………………11330634135 spacer ring………100X110X1.5………11141252897 stud………M6X50………7129908106 threaded plug………M6………11121744337 wave washer………B6………7119932072 wave washer………B8………7119932095 wave washer………B10………7119932112

I use the 228mm E30 M3 pressure plate and IE's solid center racing clutch disc--both from IE--with an aluminum JBR flywheel. My M10 race engine is roughly 215 HP at crank. You might want the spring center clutch disc for street use. --Fred

Same here--curious as to how stock 2002's with many miles come out on their specs. Are any still dead-on? Likely the reason for lack comments from racers is that many have adjustable suspensions, and set them up based on what works on the track and what provides the best tire temperature profile for any given track and condition at the time. These setups have little to do with street driving. For example, my 2002 is set up with -2.9° camber in front on both sides (will be more when I install Lee's offset bump steer spacers) and about 1/16" toe-out. I used to run 1/8" toe-out for autocross as it really helps turn-in. The rear is also adjustable and currently -2.1° camber on both sides and close to zero toe (want just a hair toe-in for stability). My front caster is more than stock, but not adjustable (yet). As much as I try, I just cannot figure out how to set the rear caster .

Joel--oops, sorry! Fixed it above --Fred

Joel Jim--for context here is the original thread from the OP. While it started as a search for more power, the more important issue of making sure the brakes are in good shape came up. Apparently they are not and need to be addressed, as was discussed in the following thread: Side Draft Intake Manifold Upgrade http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/155790-side-draft-intake-manifold-upgrade/ The relevant issues for this thread are: 1) The car pulls to one side under braking--this is the issue that needs attention and is unlikely related to the alignment settings 2) Les Schwab told the OP (Carter) that the left rear was seriously screwed up, or something like that, would affect braking, and that the OP should "not brake too hard" until it was fixed. In my opinion this second statement by LS is total BS--if it was unsafe to brake hard (like in an emergency!) then the car should be taken off the road until fixed.I suggested Carter post the alignment specs here so people could review and comment on them. As you and others suggest, the rear camber is fine for a 40 year old car with a lot of miles on it. In the other thread Toby provided a good list of all the bushings and suspension linkages that should be checked and replaced if worn out. Carter--spend your first $1000 on making the car safe and getting the brakes and suspension up to spec. Then drive it for several months and see how fun it is--because it handles so well--even with roughly 100 HP. Hope this helps--Fred

I have not done this particular repair, but have done a fair amount of structural welding on my 2002's. In addition to measuring the heck out of it, if I were to do it and trusted that the location of both large pins was still correct, I would build a jig to positively locate the bottom (free) end of the pins before taking it apart. What i am thinking is weld two stout tabs (maybe 1/8" thick) to each side of the car (4 tabs total) at the inside bottom of the frame rails, somewhere around the jack point. Then fashion a bar of perhaps 1" square thin wall tube with 1/8" nut plates welded on both ends that would span the bottom of the car and secure to the tabs with bolts. It would need to be registered somehow so that slop in the bolt holes would not affect positioning. This becomes your removable reference surface. Then weld or bolt arms coming off this that go to the tips of the big pins--maybe a little cup to capture each tip so that it is positively located. Once this reference jig is stout and you are sure that when removed and replaced it will be in exactly the same location, remove the reference bar and start your repair. The tabs welded onto the car body would be ground off after the repair is complete. EDIT: Now that I think about it, it is the height of the pad and centering of the pin in the pad base that is critical. While we want the pin to be perpendicular to the pad (which I was thinking of by positioning the bottom of the pin), it is the height at the base of the pin, not the tip (bottom) that matters most. I would likely build a jig several times out of cardboard before actually welding anything up. But at least you get the idea. --Fred

I've always interpreted the division symbol in the BMW 2002 factory repair manual as a range. Here is an example for engine compression on page 11-0/3 Compression test Good....above 10.5 atm Normal.....9.5 ÷ 10.5 atm Poor....below 9.0 atm EDIT: Ah, I was typing at the same time Les was. My factory Blue book must therefore be the older version. --Fred

Yep, Roy plans to be there! He didn't drive much at WGI, was just tuning for the hillclimb

That's Roy Hopkins and "Woodstock". He has won Targa Newfoundland overall three times in it with co-driver Adrienne Hughes. Just saw them up at Watkins Glen last weekend, Roy was chasing a problem with the crank sensor. It was funny, both he and I with laptops attached to our 45-year old BMW's gathering data, surrounded by much newer and higher power cars in the paddock. He was tuning his Megasquirt, I was just reading AFR data from my '69 to to figure out why I still can't get the mixture right. The sense is that there is an issue with one of the DCOE carbs. Here's a link to another pic and a video: Roy Hopkins + Watkins Glen http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/114834-roy-hopkins-watkins-glen/

When you are viewing the forum (and not reading a post) http://www.bmw2002faq.com/forum/8-02-general-discussion/ Click "Start New Topic" on the right, just above the list of posts

+1 on the oil pump. We had a discussion on this recently and identified some parts that can be used to refresh a used pump instead of buying a new one. Post is here: Rebuilding Oil Pump http://www.bmw2002faq.com/topic/153068-rebuilding-oil-pump/#entry980473

After you install some thin spacers in front (say 1/4"), check to make sure the tire is now not rubbing the fender. Lowering the car from stock increases the chance of fender rub, adding negative camber (fixed or adjustable camber plates) reduces rub. Light rubbing shows up as bubbled paint from the heat. Fenders can be rolled or stretched to accommodate the tires. Plenty of threads here on what fits and how. --FB

Part of the reason the 2002tii makes more power for the same displacement is that having the injectors near the intake vales allows the use of a dry plenum. The plenum acts as a Helmholtz resonator and increases the engines volumetric efficiency. I read somewhere that the plenum (+ runner?) volume of the M10 engine is equal to its displacement, 2.0L. Here's an article discussing the application of Helmholtz resonators to internal combustion engines: http://www.brighthubengineering.com/machine-design/84316-how-intake-resonators-improve-volumetric-efficiency/