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Found 13 results

  1. alignments are easy on 2002's. here is one simple way to approach the job. Other who have done this or want to add the “string method” chime in. here is a 5min how to on setting alignment on a 2002. If you are starting from a recent suspension assembly, eyeball the front wheels straight, put the steering box in the middle, and the steering wheel centered. Make sure the tie rods are the same length. If checking toe on an intact car or have completed the above on new front parts.. Center the wheel. Jack up front and loosen the adjustment bolts on the tie rods. (don’t need to jack up if you can get your hands under there to loosen’em.) Put car back down. remember to roll the car forward and back a few times after jacking to allow the tires and suspension to "relax". Now get two tape measures and your choice of “plates”. Nice Or what you have in the garage.. Set the plates against outside of front tires Run one tape in front of wheels, one tape behind. Hook dumb end of tapes on far plate. Read tapes on near plate. Make sure plates are against tires and tapes are tight. If front measurement smaller than back you have toe in. front bigger equals toe out. If you want to adjust, spin the adjusters on the tie rods (if old tie rods, you may have to spray some penetrant on the threads.) After each adjustment, roll the car back and forth a few feet and measure again. Once you have the toe where you want it, jack front back up and tighten the adjuster lock bolts back up. Done. Suggested settings (basic…ymmv) Normal street – 1/16in toe IN Track – zero Auto-x – 1/16in toe OUT Option three….longacre toe bar Then get out your digital camber/caster tool…. Nevermind…another time….
  2. Radiator is mounted, all the trim holes and rust spots are finally taken care of. Now they just need to mount the front spoiler, and get the quad headlights mounted. Rear brace and battery holder is done as well. Still need to mount the fuel cell and delete the spare tire well so there is room for the exhaust. Unfortunately that wasn't included in the original bid. Also, still waiting on the rear subframe so I can install the rear coilovers. Shot of the front adjustable camber/castor. Here is a picture of my quad headlight setup. Pretty rare, should make the car nice an unique. and a reference of what they look like installed. Crossing my fingers for a big tax return. Mark, don't fail me now.
  3. Gahhh, this thing is never going to be done. Baby steps below. Lower offset camber plates, correct my geometry to take into account the shortened coilover struts. Offset for even more negative camber and increased track width. All OEM turbo flares and front spoiler. I was lucky to get a set as the front right fender flare has been on backorder from Germany for over a year now. E30 M3 rear seat. I'll eventually recover it to match my front seats. Fuel cell (with internal baffles). Most 2002's aren't fuel injected so it's a bit of work to get the OEM tank to work with the M20. This is easier, safer, and when trunk mounted lets me shave the fuel cap of the side for a cleaner look. I finally found a body shop that would work on it. It was literally like pulling teeth. I couldn't give my money away. Crazy. Carbon fiber hood (shown) along with ditching the front bumper and moving the battery to the back more than make up for the extra weight of the M20. Unfortunately in moving it around prior to the body shop my nose got smashed, so they'll have to replace that (found OEM fresh nose) along with all the rust repair and cutting fenders for the flares. After a good sand blasting. Luckily no big surprises were found. Stripping all the old sound deadening from the inside looked quite labor intensive. After the wheel wells got all cut out for the fender flares. That should give me a bit of extra room for tires. Flares on. I'm deleting all the trim and any extra side markers etc that were added for the US market. It's a lot of little holes to weld up. Test fitting the new nose. Wheel gap much? Part one of the rear strut bracing. It will eventually tie into the floor and have an integrated battery holder. There was a lot or reinforcement to the shock towers for two reasons. #1 it's known failure point. #2 Normally that is just a mount point for the shock, the spring goes to a perch under the car. I'm converting to a true coilover rear that will mount to the shock tower so it's a lot of added stress to that area. Fingers crossed. Finally got my front coilovers on. You can see them (powdercoated in Inka orange) peeking through. Not shown are the nice adjustable camber tops. GC did nice work. The struts are from a Tii which gets me bigger wheel bearings. They've also been shortened 2" to get me lower. This picture makes my pants tight. I've been dreaming about this for a long time. It's nice to finally see it. Thanks again to Jay for the killer deal on the wheels. I really wanted BBS RS but these were literally 10% of the price. Wheels are 16 x 8 ET 0. I was a bit worried the 16" would look too hot wheels, but I think it's just fine. Front tires are 205/50 rear are 225/50. I went with a Continental Extreme Contact DW tire. Reviews were quite positive, especially wet performance. Should do fine for Austin weather. Coilovers are set about half way in this photo, so I should be able to go lower if I want to. I will need to do a little trimming of metal on the inner wheel well where it rubs under a hard turn. No biggie. I have a custom rear subframe and axles (2002haus) coming at the end of the month. Once that gets here I can weld in the lower perches for the rear coilovers. Hopefully after that it's only a few more weeks until I can get it to paint. Unfortunately after it's painted, I'm out of money, so it may need to sit for a while more.
  4. I thought I would remove the factory spacer plates and quickly install the fixed camber plates I purchased from an eBay vendor today... NOT. I did manage to do the job on the lift with the complete suspension and wheels installed. The hard part was getting everything to fit. No instructions were included but if they had been, they probably would have said, "Some trimming may be necessary to fit." I had to radius/chamfer the inside on the camber plate to fit correctly on the strut bearing without gouging the rubber. (I noticed this after I slightly gouged the rubber the first time I put it together foolishly assuming it was going to fit.) Once I had the camber plate properly mated to the strut bearing I then had issues getting that assembly to fit correctly into the car. I had to slightly enlarge the strut hole in the body to clear the strut bearing which was hitting the inboard edge. The driver's side is done and was a learning experience. The passenger side should go quicker. PASSENGER SIDE BEFORE DRIVER'S SIDE AFTER
  5. Received a spec readout after doing alignment at a local tyre shop and the camber specs are bothering me a bit. Left : -1deg 18' and Right : -0deg 30' . I must add that I have fixed camber plates installed, new strut mounts and new polybushes, lower ball joints are also in good condition and there doesn't appear to be any damage to the control arms. There car hasn't been in any accidents from what I can tell. What would be an acceptable difference in camber angle between the two sides ? And any recommendations on what I could do to rectify this, just short of installing adjustable camber plates ? thanks 02G
  6. Price:: 1 Location: : San Ramon / Grass Valley, Ca Hi All, Up for sale is a used pair of: -[sOLD] Front Bilstein Sport Shocks - $100 + shipping; 12 pounds, 30"x13"x9" -Rear KYB Gas-a-just Shocks - $50 SHIPPED; 12 pounds, 29"x15"x8" - [sOLD] Front Camber Plates - $60 + shipping; 2 pounds, 10"x7"x5" Shipping via USPS from 94582 Thanks!
  7. I was at the track the other day! Lots of fun chasing those Porsches:) Enjoyed my 185/70-13 Kumhos, let go in a nice predictable manner when they did and allowed me to steer a bit with my right foot. I want more! However, the Taiga did tend to understeer a bit much, in my opinion. It might have a little to do with tire pressure, but I think I need camber. (ran same pressure front and rear, what do you, more experienced trackers run?) I contemplated operations at the top of the strut. I was told I can get more with adjustable camper plates than I do with fixed (running fixed now), even running stock struts. Combined with lower offset spacers I'd get just enough for decent tire wear and better grip up front. Problems: Adjustable top plates seems pricy for what camber I get (at least non-uniball version, and I don't want uniball) and it will give me a harsh ride. I will not give up my 13" Borranis – which is said not to work with lower offset plates. But I looked under the car. Lower plates are 13mm thick, at least IE's: http://www.iemotorsport.com/bmw/2002-suspension-steering/02rollspacercamber.html With the stock 5.5 13's, there's very roughly (I'll measure more exactly tomorrow) about 20mm between the control arm and the rim. A 13mm plate would leave more room than most seem to have on their big brake mods, right? And on the 5.5's, it looks like the 15 mm offset would put the control arm just inside the curve of the rim. And the 5/8 degree of the fixed plates and the 1.7 of the lower plate would sum up to about 2.3 degree of camber. The happy advantage of the curve of the 5.5" is another story when the 6" gets on, but maybe I'll be ok anyway. Another thought is to make these plates out of steel instead of aluminium, then I could make them a bit thinner, I presume. Has anyone tried mounting the lower plates with 13" steelies? (I guess I should have started off with that question.. )
  8. thought i would document and share how camber and toe values change when ride height changes since i was adjusting my car "up" today for street use. the following represents about an inch of ride height change. there were no adjustments to camber or toe made. the change is ONLY FROM THE RIDE HEIGHT CHANGE. before (low, track settings) front camber 3.4 front toe 1/16 inch in front height 22.25in from ground to top of wheel well opening on 205/50 15's rear camber 3.2 rear toe 1/32 inch in rear height 21.25in front ground to top of wheel well opening on 205.50 15's after (one inch higher) front camber 2.9 front tow 0 rear camber 2.0 rear toe 1/8 inch out. note how the front did not change much. mcpherson strut design rear changed a lot. fault of trailing arm design. lowering a car increased toe in front and rear. for those of you running ground control height adjusters, one inch was 6 turns.
  9. I just purchased a 2002 and upon taking it in to Les Schwab, the people working there said that the rear left tire could not be re-aligned and must be re-built as something is "off" about the camber. When posting this picture, I was told that the camber wasn't actually that far off, and there must be something else wrong with my car. Any suggestions? The picture included is the printout of the information given to me by the people at Les Schwab. Hopefully it is enough information.
  10. I'm looking for a pair of camber plates to be used with stock front struts. Figured I'd looked for used before getting IE fixed front camber plates.
  11. so I am in the process of swapping my suspension. (thanks to all of those who have answered my questions) and when I pulled my old suspension out I found what my dad calls camber plates. they were turning to dust when they finally came out and so I sourced another pair which are a bit thinner from my bmw guy. unfortunately during the cleaning process I realized that one of the old (New) caber plates I got is beginning to crack and break down. are these hard to find? used? new? and how much? thanks in advance for all of your wisdom photos: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/


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